calvin280zxt

Finally got to my parts car and with the new coolant sensor I got my resistance to ground back and she's pulling hard again!

Been searching for days, my 82 zxt all stock except upped the boost a little and hks bov, I have a wide band so I'm not just guessing. Anyway my car was running rich everywhere, like 11-12/1 vac and 10.0 (maybe richer, limit of wb) over 3lbs of boost, until the other day it was hot out and after shutting it off for 30 second in a drive thru it leaned out to perfect! For 1 day, now rich again I can tune the afm and get it to drive nice except under boost, chts checks out fine so does the air temp, the only problem I can find is there is it is o/l from pin33/ chts yellow/green to ground, when there should be like 2k ohms or something. Can't find any solid info on this except in the fsm it briefly mentions this I even jumpers the chts straight across and it's still pegging 10.0 in boost

They are undrivable with a seized turbo. You would think it would act the same except no boost. Not true

nothing against you you just proved my joke 5 times over

Iv been to japan im so much smarter than anyone

Sounds like a good plan other than I have never seen another 280zx that was even drivable haha

Sounds like a good plan other than I have never seen another 280zx that was even drivable haha

No heater on these old o2 sensors. Gonna check some sensors but I can't think why it wouldn't always affect it

Just installed a wide band as I plan megasquirt this year. My car has always been a gutless bag during warmup from about the bottom of the temp gauge to a third of the way. It's like a lightswitch all of a sudden it goes from super rich 10-1 to max lean 20-1. Sometimes dies and then just like it came it starts to run fine at 13-1. stock (as far as this is concerned) 82 280zxt. I don't know much about these funky l-jets but I can only assume there is a after start 'table' and once it switches to warmup it leans out then once close to opp temp it goes to a run table and all is well. But what coul cause this only during warmup

going to tackle this first thing this spring. thanks!

Just find a used one There almost worthless. I tore mine out in lue of a 5 speed. In western canada if you want to buy it

Be easyer for sure than metal. Itching to use my new welder though

Maybe ill make it a fixaflat holder

Like my new tire on my rotas? El cheapos but I liked that they made a 255 40 and a 245 40 in the same tire

Spare tire well. Had no rubber plug and a magazine made its way under the spare so it was rusty. Basically goint to weld together a new well/ inner our dog leg first. Any advice?. First I was going to just do the bottom part but the seam was r7sty to so its all gone. Thought about putting the battery in there but im probably to lazy and cheap to run all that copper. Will try for pics on phone well see

I have 12v at the injectors and at ecu on the green power wire. I was going to check more pins but my multi meter wouldnt fit into the holes and i didn have time. I unplugged the efi relay with the key on and it clicked. All i did was take the dist. Cap off and put a screw in the rotor

At first it broke down the fuel pump came on injectors, spark. Spark was random as the rotor was spinning. I tried things and tried starting it a bunch of times, cranked it over to check compression etc. Now that i found the rotor and fixed it now anything ecu controlled isnt working. Some time between the rotor falling apart and me fixing it something else took a dump. Sorry for the confusion it all worked at first

No fuel pressure no injector pulse no spark. Its not the igniter. No fuel no boom...

Efi relay functioning, no green light on ecu.

No injector pulse or spark. I dont get how the rotor comes loose then the computer just stops doing anything. Its as if its not getting any crank angle info. I checked to see if the distributer came unplugged nothing though. Time to hit up the fsm Edit. Fuel pump relay only comes on for the token 5 seconds on ignition. Computer isn't doing anything

Its not an hei dist. It has an hei igniter. No pulse. Fuel pump relay clicks but it doesnt work. So i wired the pump direct to ignition. Its like the computer just stopped working

No theres a shroud it didnt damage the hall sensor or anything

The screw fell out of the rotor , but now i have no fuel or spark

Going to borrow a timing light today

Solid compression numbers 1 110 2 112 3 112 4 112 5 110 6 113