calvin280zxt

All funds at this point will be going to tires for my rbrs and an airdam so I can finally drive the damn thing! Have been using my tomtom as a speedo all along. Went to all the work to correct the milage of my spare speedo and it's not even broken!

looks great, i went a little conservative on the front only about 2.25" im planning to go all in on the back because the plastic wont look all funny after a severe trimming, id like to remove the tumours sticking out to but i have enough body work atm (join the club right)

82 turbo, was a 3 speed auto when problem was created. whether the vent was plugged or something doesnt matter its in the garbage in lou of my 5 speed but anyhow my speedo is full of atf, and reads way off. if i clean it out is my oily speedo cable going to oil it up again? has this happened to anyone else. i have another cable in another car but thats a pain in the ass

that setup is perfectly fine

well i finished mine, didnt compress quite as far though went flush with the silver stickers and did a 5/8 weld on either side207:IMG_0102.JPG]looks like overspray in pic but its tinted (looks bad a$$ in real lifecustom plastic blade via bench grinder, hit edges with the orbital with 120 grit looks factory did an awsome job

Just compressed and welded my shocks at work for the front, compressed flush with the silver sticker just need to trim and install

Try out the one in the spare tire well

Put short strand body filler on sanded it off on of on off.. Opened yet another can o worms. Wire wheeling away geting surface rust on rocker Ohh ok guess theres welds and 3/8" of bondo under there it been replaced about 20 years ago. Put my new speedo to correct milage and installed so ill know how fast im going now. So much for doing some quick body work to get it on the road

Look forward to seeing the back one

email him. i bought some like 3 months ago

Im interested^^^

Installed a mechanical autometer oil psi gauge in my new pullar gauge set up not long ago, oil pressure never gets below ten psi when warm which is acceptable i guess, still getting the few second delay on oil pressure on startup. is the one behind the filter the check ball im looking for?? ive read through the fsm a few times but havent found anything Edit/ps i have found a mystery leak on the turbo/supply line. Could this cause it to drain back?

Thanks, i was. Concerned about getting it into all of the Contours etc. ill have to check next time i go to the city. Its fairly far down my to do list though

So my car, the head liner and all the molded crap in the hatch area is all falling apart, the foam underneath is dust. The p/o tried gluing it so its not a matter of re attaching it needs to be redone. I had one idea, peel it off brush off all the dust and rock guard it then paint to match. Just wondering what you guys think/ have done Ps i have spare pieces to test on if it looks like hell

Not sure if its accesable enough but, put vise grips on and use chanel locks to clamp the vise grips on as tight as possible. Ive used this trick a few times

I just looked at the shocks on mine as there off. There is a silver sticker on them that appears to show Compressed length they look to compress best part of 2"

Same problem here, going to fix the rust and go with a type 2 msa rear skirt to cover it :/

Well mine is very rusted and pitted, and it was rear ended by an f350 at like 1mph so i had to get it straight then start on rust. The whole left taillight was caved in. Im using an angle die grinder with 60 grit and a 4.5 inch grinder with a wire wheel on it treading softly so not to burn through the remaining metal. Now starting with short strand f/g filler.

Was sick of working on my rusty dented taillight panel, so i sanded it all down and painted it flat black as per my semi temporary paint scheme, i am going to rock guard the area under it tomorrow as the plastic inner fender is not going back so my rbrs will fit alOng with rolled fenders etc

Before and after pics!

Bought my now parts car for 100 bucks from my buddy a 82 2x2 na that was the rustiest POS i have seen to date but man was it fast and fun. A true flintstone mobile. Sold it for 450$ then bought it back for 300 a couple years later. Then a couple years ago came across a 2x2 turbo automatic in great (looking) condition put all my good parts on it and my 5 speed. I was awesone looked good fast with ten psi o boost. Then i hit a bear. And since im hered it to full body work where it remains until all rust is destroyed

Might do this already but do you leave the key on for a second to build fuel psi before cranking

the first place to rust is the spare tire well. look under all carpets, the original undercoating only hides rust not prevent it. also all spot welded seams and the area at the bottom of the windshield

looks good old andy. my biggest areas are in front of the rear wheels, the classic tailight spongey gasket rot spare tire well and various other small seams. plan is to get the metal work done rough in the body and go flat black so i can get it off jackstand prison and drive it/work on the floors/underbody until funds allow a paintjob

Ill take a cracked dash anyday over rust haha. My parts car has struts sticking out the hood but a mint black dash haha