calvin280zxt

I have it running now just that bolt hole needed grounding. Now to mount and wire it properly and replace with something high performance. It seems to work so i guess its not cooked thanks for the help

Thanks thats all i needed i had the bottom of it gounded but not the bolt hole. Will work well on my heat sync i built at work. Plan on replacing stock hei with performance one this is just to make sure that was the problem

sorry i put the pics to 20% but thats still big i guess. ill try grounding the case and see what happens. i still havent joined zcar, i should though. ill do some tracking through the diagrams

1: mystery wire that used to go to coil negative (not power or ground) 2: ecu signal wire (according to hei converion diagram over on zcar i think) 3: ECU ground (hei conversion diagram) which doesnt make sense as it has 12v with key on mystery condensor thing. connects to 12v with one wire and grounds to botton of dizzy with other ground wire it all started with my car just not having spark. parked at work ran awesome. 8 hrs later no spark, power to coil injectors fireing so crank angle is working. coil specs out ok so idk what to do

So i have the ingnitor figured maybe. But what is that condensor like thing on the other side of the coil. Nobody seems to know and how can i test it. I think its the culprit

So im coverting my 82 280zxt to hei because it has no spark. Im a bit confused where i need to hook up the power transistor condensor looking thing if someone knows of a diagram that includes that thing eould be awsmome or a picture of where the stock setup went like i should have taken first. I was following a diagram on the swap guide on zcar i think but it seems incomplete like i have extra wires

Im running stock boost pipe and ten psi, the bov decreases lag (between shifts). I dont have an intercooler but it would create some lag you have to pressure all those pipes. The afm is so crude venting to atmosphere really has no effect, on mine anyway

Yea thats an idea ill check princess auto (same thing in canada)

Well my truck with 400k on it isnt really worth spending a bunch Of $ on, if i get it fixed proffesionally obviously thats what ill do. But in my experience they just recharge it anyway and charge you a lot more than 20$ worth of refridge just so it can leak out again

Well i dont know where being illegal came from, i just bought some at the parts store. And it didnt work that great either it was slighty above better than nonthing. In fact its the only refrigerant you can get in a little can. Maybe its because its not meant to be used exclusively as its just a top up can

I dont need r12 it takes 134a and r12a is a universal replacement

Yea, r12 a sucks. Going to bite the bullet as the system leaks anyway only lasts a couple weeks. Also leak sealer sucks to. Will have to let the pros dig in

I thought i had the rustiest part car! Mine was still driven until a few years ago, hood doesnt shut though shock towers are to tall... It was a true flintstone mobile. It still had me hooked though

R12a is a universal replacement for all systems so it says. Cant even get r12

I have checked all that, the cooling system itself is not performing properly

Not a z, i tried joining a truck forum but i gave up. everyone here is more knowlegable anyway. Its a 97 chevy 4x4 380000 kms, i changed a transistor in the heat/ ac controls so they work now and i just recharged the system to the correct pressure with some r12a, and it works clutch kicks in and all that. It still doesnt get very cold at all though, it is definatly cooler than outside but now what it should be ive cleaned the condensor and everything and its got air moving through it so i dont know what else it could be thanks in advance

Black dragon one side is like 199 and then other is 399

What other option?

7 81 yes I do

The F is similar to the B I have in my car (turbo auto late 1981) the f would be a step up from the M (weakest cam) and if the lash pads etc. are off the same head why not. Here's the specs http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/cam/index.htm

Mine I had to actually adjust my hood back about an 1/8th" so it would clear the metal part of the bumper. I didn't compress mine all the way only about 2.5" I'm not sure how those guys cleared the hood

Finished rolling my back fenders, re installed gauge cluster (with working speedo now) rattle canned rear quarter flat black as per temporary paint sceme. Plugged and unplugged computer several times to try and fix high rpm violent rev limiter

It does thank you, I have a different tranny so it should be fine. My car basically dies after 4500 to hmmm.. I'll have to look at that conector to

Bigger turbo!

Won't spend any money on your dd because your z will be a dd one day