Cody 82 ZXT

Try C.A.P. Cyberspace Automotive Parts They have them for the L28 for 68.00. It's the best price I've found on them.

It kinda depends on if it's your daily driver or not. If it is then you will really need to go through everything and make sure that it is doing it's job right. If not repair or replace. The block--How fast do you want to go? Thats the most important part of the project; money with standing. That will determine if you need to rebiuld the block or not assuming you get one in good condition in the first place. I'm running mine at 14 PSI with a few mods and it runs like a champ(estimated 320hp at the crank). With a aftermarket computer I could make a ton more power. I would make sure the block is sound and just upgrade the turbo and ad a good intercooler set up with this alone (fuel ofcourse)you will have a car that is real hard to beat on the street.

It all depends on the cost of the donor car and how many things you decide to replace. Don't forget the donor car will be cheap for a reason and will need some things to get it going. If you have a $2000 and plan everything out you shouldn't have proublem. I did something similar to an 83 na that I used to have and was very happy with the results. You won't believe how much better and funner the car will be.

Ross, I don't remember if the rims are 4 or 5 lug but, my guess is that they are 4. I'll call him today and find out. I have 205/55/15's (15x7)on the front right now and they barley fit. They come real close the the strut housing. They are close to 0 backspacing if not exactly-I never measured. If I pushed the positive backspacing rims out with an adapter would this possibley help the situation? He still has some tires mounted to them should I just jack the thing up and do some measuring? What would be the best way to make sure not to screw this up? I was thinking of running some 215/40or45/17's on front and some 225/40/17's in back. I really don't have the money to experiment on this. What I buy has to work. My goal is to have them on by atleast next June which give me plenty of time to get it right but, I still don't want any surprises if you know what I mean. What will this do to my ride quality? The car is already pretty stiff. Thanks for your help

I've got a lead on some 17" rims that I can get for $200 (17x7). I have some 15" Centerlines that I've had for years and I'm really getting tired of them and it's time to replace my tires anyway. Is anyone else running 17's on thier 280ZX? What about tire sizes. They came off an Accord and have a different bolt pattern than the Civics, I think. Is this going to be a proublem when looking for an adapter? Who is making the adapters now? Thanks for any info.

James, Your setup is really coming along nicely. Have you ever thought of making a header that would fit in the stock location ie. just bolt on?

I used the same wastegate acuator that I had used before. Also the guy is wrong! I'm sure there are tons of guys running around with T4/T3's that have not had to do the mods you are having to.

Scott, As for the Probe intercooler I think it may be a little small for our cars. I think they were in 2.0 liter range. Right? Anyway the Supra intercoolers are supposed to be pretty good. Both the Mark I and the Mark II models should have plenty of flow potential.

I think I would try to fix the BOV first. That seems like it would be the cheapest way. As far as other BOV's are concerened I run the GReddy Type-S. I'm happy with it and have had no proublems with it after about 2 years of use. Your BOV really should have much to with how much boost you run.

Do you guy think that some camber plates would help in this area?

I put a drilled core glass pak on my 82 and it seems fine to me. Give a nice sound and is very low restriction. Look at Summit and Jegs for some inexpensive units.

Hey guy's I need some help in getting my front suspension right. So far the car has Motorsport springs and Tokiko struts and shocks. Poly bushings on the stock sway bars and the T/C rods. Last time I went to buy tires and get an alignment the guy told me that he could not get the front end right (National Tire & Battery) not enough adjustment. The tech said the car would pull to the right. And would wear the left front tire first. After this was first done it was substantually better than before so I really didn't worry about it. Now the time has come to get new tires and I want to get the front end right. My main complaint is that there is excessive shimmy (proubly balance and worn out) and it pulls hard to the right. What to I need to do it get it right(stop shaking and go straightdown the road)? The car has 154000 on it and is my daily driver. I'm getting real tired of fighting the car to go straight. I'm in the Dallas/Ft. Worth area do you have any one or place that you would recommend. I would take the car to Robert Clary but, I know he'll say to raise the car back up. He hates none stock cars. I like the springs but, need the car to be right. Please help!!! Thanks, Cody 82 ZXT

If I'm not mistaken the main gripe from most people running MBC's is that when the temp changes the boost changes. Thats one big reason I went with an electronic boost controller. I believe it has to do with the density of the air.

About the Profec A going acting Crazy. It would work fine one time and then not the next. Often it would Go up to the preset boost amount and then come down to 9 psi. I sent it in to GReddy and they checked it out and said there was no proublems with it. I had sence bought a Profec B so I sold it. I'm happy with the B and it is very simple to install and use. There are much fancier models out there but this one really seems to work day in day out.

The resaon for the BOV has nothing to do with exhaust gases. Leave that out of the equasion(sp). You stated that the turbo can't instantaiously go from 0 to 100,000 thats right and that is one reason you would put the BOV in. It helps to keep the turbo spinning by not letting it get hit with the pressure wave coming back from the throttle plate. This would stall the turbo and not let it spool back up as fast as it would other wise. As far as the exhaust part being in a vacum so it would still be spinning. I can see what your thinking is but, remember the compressor wheel is connected on a common shaft to the turbine wheel. What one does the other does. If the compressor wheel gets stalled then the turbine wheel gets stalled. When you open the throttle up again, your going to be putting heat and exhaust gas pressure back on the turbine wheel causing the wheel to spin and create boost if the conditions are right to do so.

The Blow of Valve is installed bewteen the throttle plate and the outlet of the compressor housing. It is used to releive the pressure that is caused by the throttle plate closing when you shift or whatever. In racing conditions it helps the compressor wheel to keep spining for quicker spool up instead of being hit by the reversion of air after it hits the throttle plate upon closer. It also is used to help releive pressure from the bearings in the turbo. The sound it makes is just an after effect of the air rushing through the valve. If you look you can see one on also every serious turbo car out now days. The supercharger guys are even starting to use them.

I'm currently running the GReddy Profec B it is very simple to use and I'm sure the HKS model is very similar to it. I'm very happy with it's ease of use and installation. I used to have a GReddy Profec A and I think the boost might have hit a little harder with it on the car. Much more of a pain to install. It ofcourse started acting crazy and I sold it after having it looked at by GReddy.

While we're on the water cooled center/section topic. Has anyone ever installed a water temp gauge for water temp. after the bearing section? I'm curious as to how hot the water gets after you run high boost. Does it really add any temp to the overall water temp for the car? I'm sure it could easily be oberserbed(sp) on the street but, what about racing conditions?

Mike, I sent you an e-mail.

I've been thinking of ordering the HKS kit. Racesearch.com has it for 891.00 thats the best price I've seen on it. I would really like to hear from someone who has it or even has seen it. I just want some real info on the kit. Anyone have any pictures of it? 250.00 bucks some like a great deal. Let me know if you don't get it. I'll take it. ------------------ Cody 82 ZXT