Cody 82 ZXT

There are several sites you can buy the injector housing from I think HKS may be one of them. You would just need to buy the aluminum ones and have them welded on. Some are even the thread in type but, I don't think that I would go this route. Seems like they would leak over time. You could just take the pic from the book to a machine shop and ask if they can do it. You might have to try a few to find one that can and is really willing to mess wth it and do it right. As I'm sure you read in Maximun Boost the extra injector upstream of everything is only good for a few more PSI. I guess it depends on how much power you are wanting to make and how perfect everything has to be for you.

Here's a pic of the new pipe I'm making to connect the AFM to the turbo. I modified a stock pipe years ago when I first put my bigger turbo on. After you get it all on it's all kinked up and proubly restrics airflow. Hopefully this new pipe will free up a few ponies that I had lost due to the crazy stock pipe and it's internal coils. Looks like the materials and welding will end up costing me about 70 bucks to make. If nothing else it will look better than stock. If you look at the insides of the two pipes you'll see the difference in the two.

Thanks Mike, Hopefully I'll try to collect the parts sometime later this summer or maybe in the winter.

Mike, Yes it's the same car and the intercooler turned out great after alittle cutting and welding. I just didn't like the way HKS must have intended the pipes to go. After I got done I has about 2' of pipe left out of all you sent me. Not sure how they were running it but, it must have been crazy. Back to the brakes for the 87-89. Do you have to weld on new mounting taps or what? Can you atleast steer me in the right direction for now? It would be awhile before I even attempted something like this but, I always thought it might be possible and like the part about sticking to Nissan parts.

I was looking into the metal head gasket situation and saw that they have varing thickness of gaskets. What kind of compression ratio increase qwould you have if you ran the .6mm gasket vs. the stock crushed thinkness of 1.4mm? also what else would you need to do to make sure the cam timing was correct? Add shims to total the difference between the two? Where would you buy them?

Hey Mike, What all is involved inthe swap to 87-89 calipers and rotors? I'm starting to see more and more of these in the J/Y's lately so this may be an option later this summer until I can get some real brake upgrades.

I have Centerforce III right now and it held up fine till I got to about 320 HP. Then it would slip while getting on the highway full Boogie in 4th gear. Here is the description of the clutch from the page itself. 280 ZX 2.8L L28ET Turbo 1981-83 Organic, Clamp Load (Kgs)915,Capacity Increase 103% $314.70 Anyway what do you think? Lockjaw, clutch set-up sounds intreasting. Is it jsut the stock disc of a 89 turbo?

I just asked Jerry at All Z's the other day if he had any and he just laughed at me. I was buying an engine from him and was going to see if I could get some kind of deal as a package but, there were none to be had. Maybe next time.

I'm now in need of a new clutch for my setup. I'm outting in a New to me J/Y engine that is supposed to be good and is from a reliable source. Anyway I need a clutch that will hold up to 350 or so HP. I know this will be alot for this engine but, who cares if I tear it up, it came out of the J/Y. I found a site called Dial-A-Clutch they say thier organic clutch will hold 103% of stock power and is only 320.00 bucks. I just wonder if anyone has ever used them?

Lets asume you have the engine running right for now. What type of fan are you running? If it's the factory clutch type then I would first make sure that is turning the fan fast enough to cool your car. I had one once that didn't cool the car enough during idle but, worked fine on the highway. You'll just have to try and compare the way the fan spins when it's cool vs. how anther one does and take a guess about it. If it spins very easily then it might be bad. I know it's kinda hard to tell but, it could be a proublem. The clutches are not that expensive at AutoZone or something but, at Nissan they are rather costly. Also you might have the air conditioning system checked to make sure that it has enough freon. If it doesn't then it could be heating up your condenser to much and nothing you do will help to solve the proublem. The hot air coming off the condenser would be simply to much for the system to handle. I have a stock 3 row turbo radiator and my car does fine in all temps here in Dallas. I do have an oil cooler off a turbo automatic on my 5 spped car. This helps the oil stay a little cooler during extended highway runs. I once heard that the oil can help the water but, the water can't do a thing for the oil. This is all inreference to cooling ofcourse.

WOW!!! Where did you find that?

I thought NX was spraying Co2 instead of NO2. seems like that would be cheaper and still give you similar results.

These are strut spacers for the ZX. Would these be of any value to a lowered ZX? Strut Spacer for ZX

Top End has a special right now for the JE Pistons for 775.00 they come with rings and pins. They also has a special on basically all that you would need to do a rebuild other than the machine work for 1995.00 Lockjaw, what type of spec did you have to give? Were they familar with our applications? Thanks again for the all the info.

It seems like there is going to be no way for me to get around not going with forged pistons. So I'm looking for some help in what brand and what kind of price range to expect. All I've found so far is a set of JE for about 885.

I beleive you can do this. I just wonder how it got like that? Have you had all this apart before? Or is it just from chain stretch?

I've been lookking all over the net to find some rebuild info. Looks like a good start to me. I wish you could suppliment stock for cast pistons. But, I guess you can't have everything.

Anyone ever use Jet Hot Coating on their turbo cars? I have been thinking about doing this for years but, I'm curious about the cost to benifit ratio. Thanks,

Tim, I know you had your car built there and had good results. As have many other people. I was truley impressed by thier MR-2 they built a few years ago. But, the truth to the matter is that ever since Steve has gone I've had nothing but, crappy service. Every time I go in there to ask a question or buy something they are short and only want to get me out of the way so they can work on someones Honda. I know they get asked a million questions but, if 'm going to make a big purchase I have to try and be ablsolutly certain that it is exactly what I'm looking for and what the results will be. In short they treat me like crap.

Shane, Yes, I'm definatley intreasted in the set-up you have for sale. I sent you an e-mail so we can discuss it further off the board. I haven't even started to take the engine out yet. I'm still gathering parts and info at the moment. I bought a hoist new for 100 bucks and a stand for another 30 so for now I've saved about as much as I've spent on items for the swap. Next pay day I'm getting more tools for the rebuild that I don't already have. I'm really bad about not wanting to pay full retail for things. Once I get the engine out I'll be able to see if I'm gong to have to have new pistons or not. if there is no physical damage to them them I could asume they are ok? What about the rods? Lockjaw you mentioned that you polished the rods. How did you do that? Is that something that I could do at home or is that more of something that must be done at a shop? What about polishing the combustion chamber? I heard that would help to deter detionation. Is that true or do the small bumps form the casting help with swirl? What about compression ratios. I would love a more peppy engine when off boost. Any recommendations? What would my compression ratio be if I put in the 89mm pistions and left the stock head gasket thinkness and didn't shave the head. Sorry about all the questions but, there's not really any one around hear that I trust or know in my area. Anyone know anything about SFD engines in Garland Tx.? Thanks,

Do you really think I need Forged pistons? I'd love to do an over bore but, I'm curious as to the benifit of added displacment vs. cost at the time being. If it's something that I'm not going to be able to do without then thats fine but, I really don't want to put all my eggs in one basket. I've read your running the JWT set-up. How would you rate it. I'd really like to go with a SDS system but, would never have the time to set it up correctly and tune it to it's potential. Thats why I'm thinking of the JWT stuff. They have the experence to do it all and can get almost all the power out of a set-up that is there. They seem to be able to set-up with a little resevre in the A/F ratio. About as plug and play as it gets on this type of thing. Back to the engine. What type of bearings do you recommend? Anyone ever do some porting of the head at home? Clean-up work? Thanks again!

Well, I guess it's finally time for me to rebuild my engine. To much boost too little fuel = well you know. I'm looking to rebuild my engine but, don't have a huge budget for the buid up. Hopefully I'll be able to step up to the JWT computer that is based on the Z31 at the same time. With that what do I really need to have or have done? What I'm think of now is just a stock rebuild with some new pistons, timing gear, head rebuild plus the obivious stuff. What recommendations does everyone have? Do I have to have forged pistons? What kind? Where to buy? I really need some advise here. Thanks,

The wastegate rods ont he Z 31's all came witht he threaded rod. Most i have found are so rusted that trying to adjust them only bent or broke the rod.

last summer I was really working on this type of thing and bought a Griffen rad. After I fianally got around to installing it I found out that it interfered with my new intercooler piping. I got pissed and just went out and bought a stock radiaitor. Since then I have had abosoluty no proublem with over heating. Just last week coming home from the Convention I got stuck in the traffic in Austin. The temp gauge just bareley moved even after 30 minuites with the air on. I guess my point is that the stock set-up is fine for the L28 if it is in very good condition and has plenty of flow and a shroud on it. By the way I still have the unused Griffen in my garage I'd love to sell or trade to someone. Give me an e-amil if intrested.

I'm looking to swap the rear end in my ZX this weekend and looking for any advise anyone may have. I think I'm going to just install a open rear of the desired gear ratio ( there real cheap here) then put in a Phantom Grip when the the money is there for that type of item. Ever since I installed the 17's the car is a little slower so I'm going to step up in gears to get back to the orginal gearing. thanks