Cody 82 ZXT

Aaron, There just the MSA springs. Seem fine to me but, maybe I have an uneducated butt, some people don't like them.

David, yes you would get rid of the chrome bumpers and the car would look alot like mine. The only amin difference would be the rear exit of the exhaust. Your car would be on the right were as mine is on the left. You could still use the kit for the 82/83 if you wanted to have the exhaust moddified. I'm sure it would be cheap and maybe free up a horsepower or two.

David, the Kit is the MSA kit that they've had out for a couple of years now. I really like it helps to modernize the look of the car. The rims are Cromadora I think. I bought them used from a friend and used some of Ross's adapters to fit them on the car. They made a huge difference in the way the car handles and rides. Not to mention the look of the 17's.

I went for a ride in a 475HP Mustang one night. It was the best thing ever till the intake exploded when he had a nitrous back fire.

I have some 17x7.5's and I really don't remember the exact specs but, I sent them to Ross once so he may still have them. Whats funny is that these rims fit better than the stock rims fit in my car. My spacers are 1.5" and the whole set up really helped the handling of the car. I think you could go to some 17x9's in the back if you could find a rim that was that size. One guy has some Cobra rims and they look real good on these cars also. Mine by the way are set up for the Accord stud spacing. Here are a couple of pics..

Pull the plugs and the coil wire then turn the engine over to help dry it out the gas should evaperate pretty fast. Or I guess you could pull the fuel injection harness and then turn it over also.

I'm runnning 17x7.5's Front and rear with 235/40/17's and 245/45/17's. No poublems with fitment, ofcurse I have spacers. But, this is also on a ZX and not a Z.

Dude that sucks!!

I bought this FPR about a month ago. Are you telling me it won't work for our cars ? Obivously I haven't tried it out yet.

I got one from Overboost.com. It a MSD unit that was 75 bucks with shipping to Dallas. Still haven't got the car running yet so I don't know how good it works but, it looks like a good one.

I just assembled my bottom end yesterday using stock parts. With the pistons at TDC the tops are .001 above the deck of the block. Is this right on a stock block? I really don't know the history of the block I bought it a couple of months ago to do a simple rebuild while I do a major motor in a year or so. I bought a .6mm metal head gasket to increase the compression a little but, I'm begining to think that the this block may have been milled before and don't want to run some kind of crazy compression. Is this right that the stock parts are to come to the top of the block like this?

One of things that would be cool (no pun intended) would be if you go to the track you could put in a ton of ice and get the air temps real low. Also if you had a water temp and air temp gauge it would be fun to see the relation bettween the to as you drive and circulate water. You might be able to get one of those dual gauges from that place that makes air craft gauges that I can't think of that name of right now. But, you proubly know which one I'm talking about. Scotty uses them on his car. You could runs the pump so that it is on a timer or temp switch. That way the pump would last longer.

I had thought about a water to air setup at one time but, after reading some of the info in Maximun Boost I changed my mind. Heres why.. Many more componets to be maintained and posssibly fail. Only more effecient if you can cool the water and get it cycled though the system when you need it. It will heat up with hard street driving and take awhile to cool down. Something to think about it if you make several hard runs in a short time. Where to put a large tank to hold the water. The larger the better. Once the air to air is setup your done with it. Kinda nice to not have to mess with it once it's done. One thing to think about is to look at is what are most if the fast street cars running. Of course if you just want to do something different then it sounds like a great idea.

Looking good so far. Can't wait to hear what times you'll be turning.

Several people have used them but, I read that unless you are having your block bored with a torque plate then they won't last very long. If the bore is not perfectly round then the slight in and out movment will cause the rings the wear quickly.

It really depends on how right you want to do the swap. The biggest get started cost will be your donor car and what condition is it in. You can figure 500 or so for the donor and anywhere from 1000 to 10,000 for the other stuff. I know thats a big swing in cost but, if you start the project then decided you need to replce this and that and why don't I get into the engine while it's out, then Ya know it would really be easy for me to have the turbo redone and upgraded while its off. Now I need that Skyline intercooler. Oh yea I need some new injectors but, if I buy those I should get some big ones. Then I guess I need a new computer to control the big injectors..... As you can see it's easy to get carried away. I would set a budget and then plan from there.

Greimann, Love the new rims. Any more pics???

Heres some pics of his set up. Some people had asked to see them awhile back. Looks like some good stuff to me. Maybe Alex will get a chance to tell us about his set-up....

I think the tensioner should handle the difference. I never heard of a longer chain.

Hey Scotty, While your still in the fabrication stage you might think about making brackets for all the rails. I had one made similar to yours serveral years ago and kept having to replace the plastic hold downs for the injectors. After putting the brackets on it that proublem stopped.

Not bad numbers to be unhappy with.

Well, I guess it's been longer than I thought since I've had to do it. Your right it does suck! You might think labout replacing the timing chain etc.. while your in there. The cost of the parts is really not that much and you'll be sure that your timing is 100% dead on while your increasing your boost.

I guess when the book says to wedge the wood block in there tightly aren't kidding. I've made the same mistake before and I'm sure that many of us here on the board have had this happen to us at one point in time. It really only has to happen once 'cause after that you'll never let it happen again. The job of pulling the timing cover is really not hard just time consuming.

I'm curiuos as to why you would need to do this? Are you making that much power? If so you should really look into a more realistic aproach to air managment such as JWT or an aftermarket computer.