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seattlejester
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Posts posted by seattlejester
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AGP turbo, they carry a pretty good selection and some custom turbos and hotsides.
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Just wanted to let people know who maybe are not on the mailing lists.
There are some pretty good sales going on.
Z Car depot has a 10% sale
AGP also has a 10% sale
If anyone finds some others feel free to throw them up for others!
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You were with the boosted shades guys pretty recently right?
Very cool to see you come into our world.
Hmm retrospec is known to be problematic for one or two pieces, ordering all those pieces you may have quite the wait, I would suggest staying on top of them or not being afraid to break it up so you get your parts on time. Additionally it seems they use carbon top layers on some of their parts so not really full carbon. It also seems they just leave the gel coat and don't clear over it, so it will do the notorious carbon fade/peel after time spent in the sun. Might be something to keep in mind for the price you are probably paying.
street bandito has a pretty good build in the carbon department and has some good reviews on their products.
Mark also has an awesome build with a predominantly carbon chassis.
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I'm actually looking for a longer push rod as my current one is on the short side so the pedal has slack. Appreciate you taking the plunge!
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Most excellent sir!
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Very curious as well. I'm also interested in the pedal location. If you could take a side profile to compare the rod length as well as what NewZed mentioned with location that would definitely be helpful!
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Ooh very curious as to your results
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Making videos can be surprisingly hard, if you use L you can skip past a lot of fluff people tend to put in.
I imagine a bleed port in the front of the rail with a tall grafter filler on the radiator and maybe even jacking up the car quite a bit would be required to really bleed the system.
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Looking through the spec sheet.
This is a 3L motor using the stock L28ET manifold.
T3 flange at 0.63 on a 3L seems really quite restrictive.
Another thing that would make sense to me is if you are loosing compression in a cylinder that would definitely drop you down quite a bit of power. 450 to 380 is almost 1/6, and boosting at that levels might not be surprising.
A compression test or at least pulling the plugs might reveal some basic insight as to the motor health.
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Hmm I don't think that turbo should really hit a wall like that if you were force feeding 27 with your old turbo at least. Have you checked for pressure leaks? I've had some real tricky ones, like a clamp that had partially blown off but was still covering up the gap, or a clamp a coupler that would only leak when you let off throttle and increased the pressure in the boost pipe. I might also suggest finding a manual boost controller to eliminate a faulty solenoid or controller feed setting.
If power is your goal, a bigger hotside would definitely push you towards it. My turbo which has similar specs is designed around a 1.0+ turbine AR to hit the max numbers so a 0.63 is choking it a good deal by comparison, but I still feel like you should be solidly in the 450-500ish area.
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I looked up your previous setup looks like a 76.4/68 setup. This seems really in line with your new turbo proportion and size wise, one would presume a faster spool and more area under the curve. There is literature that says the GT58 wheel will support over 700hp though compare to the gt35 which is stated for up to 600hp, so something there may account for it, although that seems odd. Granted as mentioned the s257 vs the s257sx-e is 1mm and a billet wheel that apparently allows for a 100hp difference as well.
Since the exhaust turbine wheel is the same size and you kept your exhaust AR the same it seems like that should support your previous hp. Makes it definitely lean towards the intake side of the equation. Did you have surge with your previous setup? Maybe it was present, but without the anti-surge ports you were basically just holding excess pressure in the pipes while putting premature wear on the turbo. At least that would be one explanation.
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Hmm I'm not sure, according to this one it seems you would be pretty near the center efficiency island at 2.5ish and about 40CAF, pretty decent 76% or so. The GTX3076R has made over 500whp, so it seems like you are definitely stuck on the left side if you can't make that with the GTX3576R and increasing psi. Gollum may be on point though you may be overfeeding the engine and causing it to surge, but the surge is hidden by the anti-surge ports.
I would venture that in addition to having intake restrictions whether that is intercooler pipe sizing (2.5 inch can support I think like 450hp or so before it runs into aero drag), or intake flow (these heads really don't flow all that much), the hotside may be choking you out if you kept it that small. It does become a restriction at a certain point.
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Autocross was fun
Got to meet ben and check out his z
Had some problems with my car
Fittings seem to be leaking in the rear.
Intake fell off and will need replacement.
Intake also attacked the belt when it fell.
And definitely an active oil leak which is the bane of my existence.
So had another fairly productive weekend.
After 200 miles my right leg was killing me. Part of it definitely is seat angle (being flat instead of angled), and the sport seats have a fairly short seat to start with, but the lack of support for your thigh in addition to holding your leg at a funny angle because of the roll bar meant I actually had to stop just to stretch.
Roll bar was a nice cosmetic touch, but truth be told, mine was probably never going to do anything unless I landed perfectly on my roof. Given how it was mounted a rear impact may even be more dangerous with the whole structure moving forward.
So out it came. I had some thoughts of modifying it to sit on the rear wheel well, but this one has been cut and welded to death, I think it can be retired. I counted and I get 3 additional clicks to slide back, now the inboard adjuster is rubbing the trans tunnel, I also get to recline the seat a good 3 clicks, so a bit better, not perfect, but much better.
Another point was my head was ringing, even with headphones in you could hear a drone like someone was yelling "DRA" in your ear.
So I added a big ultra quiet resonator, and also threw in a cat while I was down there.
I had some temptation to modify it to bring it out the back, but too much work for the moment, and I don't want to bring the hot exhaust around the plastic fuel cell (maybe when I make an aluminum one). Now the exhaust is just loud, but a lot of the other odd tones are gone, and there is a nice toast smell instead of fuel. I think I'll be throwing in a muffler down the road, even this seems too loud for sustained usage, granted not as bad.
I also tried to throw some shielding up in the trans tunnel, but man, the DEI floor shield stuff is super hard to work with, and their adhesive is really weak. They state that you don't need to clean before applying indicating how good the adhesive is, but it is barely on there. I think this will have to wait until the trans is out so I can wash the tunnel, maybe even just rivet this thing in place.
Replaced my accessory belt and did the first oil change, no metal or coolant in the oil which is good. There still is a small leak that appears to only manifest while driving on the driver side, I suspect from that oil level sender, but I'll have to investigate it at another time.
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Generic fans that come with the champion radiator (I suspect basic eBay), I have my intercooler in front of my rad as well.
Fans only kick on after warm, I think about 180 as well I imagine. I think I have a Mr Gasket fan controller.
I was out in 95+ the other day. It ran 185 the whole time going up the mountain with spare tool kit, full camping gear, and spare fluids, coming down it was even running at like 170 with no load and engine breaking.
The GT3582r is fairly on the larger side although it would probably hit your goal easier as in room to grow, but most likely it would be quite top end dependent. S362 which I think is the smallest the S300 frames come in, it is even bigger at 8376 so similar ball park. I think a GTX3076R or an S257SX-E might be a better choice, dudeinblue is running the GTX3071R at 510whp, although his is on a 2jz. In theory I could hit over 600hp with enough boost on my s257sx-e. Granted if you wanted room to grow, you may want to spec bigger, since the cost at least for the borgwarners are fairly similar. Pushing over 5 or 600hp definitely puts you out of the usable category though, won't make power till the top end and when it does come in it would be fairly aggressive ala supra power bands.
The trade off will be room to grow, vs area under the curve. You can hit the power numbers you are looking for I think with the 76mm compressor exducer size, so the extra wheel diameter of the bigger turbos would result in more lag, but the smaller wheel will run out of puff or start being less efficient sooner, granted we are still talking about probably over your desired power levels. I am talking theory though, and application could differ from theory.
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That's interesting, you are the second person I know with a classic Z and an E55, I'm personally also looking at one to replace my daily as well, although the supposed maintenance costs are making me stay away at the moment.
I've got a shrouded 2 row champion radiator with 2 fans and the highest I've ever seen it was 198 or so and that was after hot lapping the crap out of it. I have seen that the 1jz seems to have more issues with cooling, maybe because of the relatively high hose location, might be worth jacking the car way up safely and letting it bleed that way.
1000cc seems like overkill, granted I suppose if you plan on doing E85 and with good injector control it won't be too unpleasant.
I'm guessing you mean GT3582? That is an 8268, I think that will push your threshold quite high especially with a 2.5L engine. It should hit your goal, but you might not be building full boost till quite late, like 5k+rpm. Might want to size lower if you think 550 is your desired max.
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A couple tweaks and changes makes a pretty big difference, the SX-E model of the SX turbo which in theory has the same 7670 profile with a 1 mm bigger compressor inducer and a billet wheel can flow almost 10 more CFM.
I'd have to run the numbers to really get a good visual of the change, but a mm or two makes a huge difference when you add it to the outer diameter.
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Thanks, I was pretty sure that was the order, but some people said they were mounting it at the end of their exhaust in lieu of a muffler which seemed odd. I ordered some standard rubber hangers for the tail end, and I figure the drivetrain is together so hopefully no problem there since the exhaust is bolted to that.
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I'm looking to add some components to my exhaust system and maybe re-reoute it. The car is a 2jz powered with a turbo. Right now, after the turbo, it goes to a V-band, that goes straight under the car and has a bullet muffler near the drive shaft and exits right behind the passenger.
It is real droney and loud.
I've bought a universal catalytic converter and a Vibrant ultra quiet resonator and have another v-band on the shelf.
My assumption would be to put the cat pretty up stream like under the transmission, then put the resonator near the drive shaft where my muffler is. Is that correct?
I think I want another V-band around there so I could drop that section to work on the transmission and the drive shaft. The exhaust is bolted to the transmission at the middle, then at the end it is bolted to the diff mount, do I need to get a flex coupler?
The fumes are a lot lessened with the exhaust out the passenger side, but would it be worthwhile to move the exhaust back towards the rear but maybe exit through the rear quarter? I'm not a big fan of the moisture kind of building up in the rear wheel well at the moment, the passenger side is far rustier than the driver side with the exhaust being blown back.
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As far as I recall, the JWT ECU throws quite a bit of fuel at the engine, it would also depend on which unit you purchased as they are "optimized" for certain setups, granted as stated they usually over fuel to probably stay on the safe side.
Checking your fuel pressure would be pretty important along with timing. Fuel pressure should be checked before the FPR, could be done with just a manual gauge.
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Hello,
It looks like you posted in the FAQ section. Please take a moment to verify you are in the correct section prior to posting to allow responses to be posted.
Regarding your topic, I don't think anyone here will really object. Paint it whatever color you want.
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For sure, I even got stuck at the gas station when the door linkage fell off and refused to latch. Hopefully quite a bit more sorted before the next event
Some pictures from the event,
Mods inbound for before the next one, kind of tempted by some new tires as well.
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Appreciate the insight!
Car is fueled, pre-registered, camping equipment is packed, just need to grab some food and water.
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^Same.
Just remove the one on the cylinder and replace it with the datsun one. Makes it very simple.
Neubs 1971 240z
in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
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Welcome to the forums, hope you have a good time.