CruxGNZ

I know how you feel. There is so much money where I live, and the people are pretty much all stuck up around here and deserve a good whoop'n by a old school Z. If you get a liscense plate frame made with that on it, could you possibly make two of them? I'll pay you for your time and shipping. I was just going to put my Buick frame on that says "Buick, going fast with class", but I like yours better. Let me know. Thanks, !M!

Anyone? The one on the red car, not on the rear of the white one in the background. !M!

I can't believe how stupid she was... no wonder her Dad set her up. !M!

Check out European Car magazine's May 2002 (volume 33, No. 5) issue. There is a BMW M3 with gullwing doors. Check it out and maybe it will give you some ideas as to what to do. If I remember right, the hinge was attatched to the A-pillar , with struts to hold the door up. Pretty neat setup. !M!

Don't you need the roof to support the gull wing doors? If you went convertible, how would you make the gull wing door conversion happen? !M!

Here, read this brakes He was having a similar problem, so you might find some helpful info. !M!

Could someone be able to tell me where I might find this rear spoiler? The most I could find out, is that it was from Australia, but that's it. Can this spoiler still be purchased somewhere? I have been told that it's the mini whale tail sold in MSA, but if you look closely it's not. !M!

Oh my, that is TOO FUNNY!!! !M!

Many thanks to all you guys! I have recieved many e-mails from you guys willing to help me out. I think I have the situation under control now. Thanks again to all the great guys on HybridZ! !M!

Douglas, that sounds like a pretty cool idea! Using the strut to take the loads of the sway bar would help out a lot. I'm going to search for some suspension photos of the Aussie cars to get a better idea of this. Hey John, I'm sorry, but I have no idea what you meant about haulin' moonshine... was the black pipe a bad idea? I just used it, because it was pretty thick and it was the perfect size for the stock bushings. I really didn't think it was very soft, because it was a bear to cut with the chop saw. I did notice something that I didn't like with that pipe though, after I cleaned it up to weld on it, I noticed little lines going through it horizontaly, kind of like it was put together with two pieces. I do have to mention something that I forgot, the way the left hand threaded bolt attatches to the remaining stock control arm is by means of welding two jam nuts together, then welding those to the plate that I made to attatch to the remaining stock control arm. I found a left hand threaded tap to use in a block of steel instead of using the two nuts and a plate, but the tap was about $40. Then, if I WAS to use a block of steel tapped out instead of the two nuts welded to a plate (I used 2, because the extra threads did sound like a good idea), I would have to make sure I got the right kind of steel, so the bolt wouldn't just pull out of the block. You guys following me here? Hope this makes sense to you all. I had no idea what kind of steel to use. Maybe you guys can comment on my nuts idea, no pun intended . Even though this design may be dead, I would still like to know what is right and what is wrong. Terry, that's a cool idea for some toe on the rear control arms, I like it. DAW, I just can't picture your idea. I know what you mean, but I can't picture it. Would you or someone else be able to maybe draw a picture for me and possibly others that are more visual learners? I know it's asking a lot, but it would help out. Or, anyone have any photos of something similar? This post is really fun, I'm learning a lot, thanks guys! !M!

Katman asks why? I was bored. I've seen adjustable control arms done before, so I figured I would try and make one myself that retained the stock bushing, so it kept a great ride around the city (around here the roads are very crappy and I didn't want a solid mount). I guess some of you were wondering how it worked, well the bolt that screwed into the remaining stock control arm was left hand threaded and the inside of that left hand threaded bolt was right hand threaded, meaning that it would be on car adjustable, really neat for only $23 worth of stuff for both control arms. I did NOT want to put this on my car before I let some more people look at it. Like ZROSSA said, I don't want my bloody wheel flying off. This car will see some serious street use, so the parts need to be strong. I made the gussets to go around the black pipe and almost started welding, but then I started to think, "what if something was to break?" I have nobody to blame except myself. If I was to crash and hurt or worse yet kill somebody, because my adjustable control arm failed, I couldn't live with myself. I am going back to stock front control arms and camber plates. I still think this adjustable control arm design has potential, but I completely forgot about the bending loads of the front sway bar. This fatigue in time may cause a failure. I am going to stick with what works, camber plates. The only thing I DON'T want is camber plates for the rear of the car. I don't want noise transmitted into the vehicle via the camber plates. What have you guys done to keep it quiet? I have coilovers if that helps and nothing is put together as of yet. Thanks guys, !M!

My Norton Antivirus does not work anymore, somehow one of the files for Norton was deleted (damn sister ). I have a Gateway with Gateway GoBack, but it wont recover the file for some reason. Does anyone know how to get this program? It's to much of an inconvenience to have to take this thing into a Gateway store. !M!

Yeah, I agree a couple gussets would be needed on each side of the bolt. I think I'll use some 12 gage steel (possibly thicker) to fab them up, or the hardware store might possibly have a washer with the correct inside diameter to fit the outside diameter of the pipe. Before that, I want to find out more info. on welding hardened bolts to softer materials. I hope I didn't make these adjustable control arms for nothing, but then again I'm learning quite a bit. Anyone know anything on welding hardened materials to softer materials? !M!

I agree, great article! I learnded a few new things . !M!

Actually, they are fine thread, you really can't tell from the crappy pictures, sorry. Regarding the bolt attatched to the tube, it's just MIG welded on there. I tacked it, made sure it was stright, then welded around the head of the bolt. When it cooled, I went around that weld with another weld, making the total weld bigger in diameter. I'm not sure that making these "doubled up" welds is good practice, but it made sense to do it. I have not taken any welding classes or nothing, so I don't know the proper way of doing this, that's why I figured I would put this out for you guys to see, BEFORE I put it on my car. !M!

I find it funny that to make our cars better, we now break them !M!

Before I put these on my car, I wanted to show them to you guys. I'm no engineer (well, no degree anyways), so I wanted some input from you guys. Does anyone see any problems with this design? It was conceived by a guy at a local speed shop that specializes in circle track cars and myself. Barely cost anything to make. It's a very simple design, kinda different from what I've seen, but it works excellent. 1 7/8" of total movement. The only thing I was worried about was the black pipe that holds the bushing, will it be sufficient enough for it's application? It's schedule 40 black pipe I picked up from the hardware store, with a bolt that I welded to it. Should I brace it some, kind of like the stock control arm is with reinforcement around the circumference of the bushing tube? Any input would be greatly appreciated. Hopefully you can see everything within these pics. Kind of a crappy camera. Thanks, !M!

Awsome! Your post gave me some good visuals... . !M!

Nope. Sorry, this site is temporarily unavailable! The web site you are trying to access has exceeded its allocated data transfer. !M!

Yeah, I was curious about the same thing. I pulled mine off a while back, because I just didn't think it was doing anything. I would love to know why these weights were put on there, it makes no sense to me. Anyone know why? Oh yeah, 660Z, turn your caps lock off, otherwise it seems like you are yelling at us. !M!

Hmm, I guess that makes sense. Didn't notice any difference after I took mine off though. !M!

Cool! Looks good, keep us updated on your progress. !M!

lol... !M!

RickS, I know what you mean about bikes. I found myself doing 155mph on my Honda Sabre 1100 (naked bike) and it was still pulling hard, but a red Jeep Cherokee pulled into my lane and had to hit the binders... I always have wondered how fast I would have gone if that person didn't change into my lane. I have since crashed the bike, so I'll never know... on that bike. I once made it to Madison from Milwaukee in 20 minutes on that bike, it usually takes 50 minutes at average speeds. The guy I bought the bike from had the dyno sheet from it, 125hp 127ft.lbs, but it weighed in at 600lbs. with me on it. In my Z (when it's running), I always have to feel the acceleration of my car, there is just something that is addictive about being thrown back into your seat. !M!

Seeing if someone will reply? !M!