Pzary3233

It depends on what the ULTIMATE goal is. The LS2 is a drive by wire motor, IF you want drive by wire great, if not then you will need an LS6 intake and an Ls1 throttle body along with the associated harness and PCM. I personally use the Vortec Truck harnesses because that is what I can get my hands on AND it has longer wires to nicely tuck things where I want. If you want drive by wire (and I don't really suggest it because you're removing safety features built into the oem system) you need the pedal, control box, and all associated wiring from that as well to make the PCM control the motor correctly. Otherwise I really like the LS2 motors. The T56 If I remember correctly has a slightly different shifter position but I could be wrong on that. I was going to also suggest that depending on your end goal, you might drop the T56 in favor of a well built 5 Speed like the TKO500 or TKO600. They are lighter and better shifting transmissions that can handle more power. But that is modifying the donor motor and transmission. I do suggest checking the clutch and flywheel and at the least replacing the clutch and resurfacing the flywheel if not a lightened flywheel. It's no fun to have to replace that shortly after it was installed. When you're serious about trying to find a swap, let me know I can get just about any Motor/T56 you want.

Welcome to the LSx game! I too am working on an LS swap but in an M3. The first thing I would suggest is to read read read and read some more! But more importantly ask questions. Here's my little bit of advice... You want to be able to corner hard (Obviously because going straight sucks ), you need a good fuel pick up and fuel slosh prevention in the tank. A drop in electric pump assembly would work wonders here. You need more 50psi or so, a LOT more then your carbs. I'll dig up some links in a moment but that would be a good start. You'll need to plumb a feed and a return line for your fuel system. So I'm sad to say that the fuel system will have to be altered a good bit to provide a good basis for your swap. Tanks, Inc. makes drop in fuel pump kits that will feed an LSx motor http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=results/category_id=61/home_id=61/mode=cat/cat61.htm The other option and something you might want to research is how much of the 280z EFI fuel system you could borrow and adapt. You Then need a fuel filter and regulator. GM did us swappers a GREAT favor in the '99 vette. This little gem is not only a filter but a regulator as well! Check out my two blog posts... Fuel System Planning: http://lsxe36m3.com/?p=25 Fuel System Parts: http://lsxe36m3.com/?p=100 Fuel System Install: http://lsxe36m3.com/?p=114 I grabbed my filter and adapters from Speedway Motors, they had the BEST price by far. http://www.speedwaymotors.com/LS1-Fuel-Delivery-Kits,41791.html I would also not go with the braided stainless again... it sure looks nice but it's function seems to suck. With Ethanol in the gas it breaks down the lines faster and people are getting that gas smell with them after short periods of time. Earls has some hose called their "Twist Loc" Which I am going to re plumb the system with at a future time. As far as filter placement I would put it towards the front of the car so that you do not vapor lock the pump and allow the fuel to "cool" before it returns to the tank. One last thought... Behind every good fuel system is a good fuel pump.

I've got a complete '78 EFI harness the only issue is the thermotime sensor for some reason was spliced. $50. FS thread has pictures etc. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/95532-fs-78-l28e-efi-parts/

Out with the new tech and going Old School! So the EFI is going to take countless hundreds of dollars to get functioning correctly. The injectors need to be replaced, the harness is pretty messed up as well… Found that this particular car has a fuel pump location in front of the axle. The Fuel Pump is indeed gone and I sourced another OEM pump through work. Now all I need is a fuel pressure regulator that will regulate pressure down to 2.5 psi – 3 psi… So tonight I pulled the EFI intake tonight and started to mock up the Carb intake. The EFI intake SUCKS to get off with all of the original head shields and what not still on the motor… The EFI intake also does not use the same upper mounting holes…so I need the older version intake gasket and use that to mount the E30 intake. [shameless plug]I started my own blog, www.fairlady280z.com Basically all posts on progress will be here and there.[/shameless plug]

Last Tuesday i picked up a carb... Except for the motor and 4 speed was attached! This is an L26 out of a 74 260z Nasty Looking... P30 block with flat top pistons P30 - Wish casting numbers were that easy on Pontiac Motors! E88 head E88 Large Valve Head E30 JDM Intake Manifold Mad tyte JDM Yo! JDM Land Truck Parts.... lol Weber Carburator Complete with Weber Carb! The guy still had the box! The transmission and motor are forsale without the intake, carb, and starter. I'll get around to posting them in the classifieds soon enough...

I have found that google can search Hybrid better then the IP.Board software.... "Strut sectioning site:hybridz.org" That should get you about what you want. Basically remove the " " and you can search hybridZ from google. In your case you would search GM MAP site:hybridz.org

Thank you for the insight. I never thought about the brake signal being a player in that scenario.

^ $90 for STI Brembos or Z32 Calipers?

Some Alpha Ford 4.6 mod Motor - My Truck needs these like NOW! These are on someone's Z..... http://www.myrideisme.com/Garage/blueovalz/24/34/ Ford Flat head V8 with friggin ITBs!!!! If I was to build a hot rod... THAT is how it would be done! BRAAP! This is for you and I! YES PLEASE!

PM sent, have motor on a pallet ready to go to a new home. Posting an ad soon.

on the simple basis of having owned an e30, and currently own an e36 M3 and a 87 280z. I have not driven MY 280... But I have driven a few before in a motorsports environment (Auto X and track Days). I can say that the S30 a much more enjoyable car, it has the raw feeling that you get from a BMW but it handles better in my opinion. I choose the S30 over buying another e30 simply because I enjoyed driving it a lot more then the e30. The S30 has a much better rear suspension then the trailing arm BS on the E30. You get a LOT more traction it seems with the S30. The E36 is a MUCH more refined car then either of the other two... I am currently building one with an LSx powerplant. So I'd keep the S30 finish it off (Because it WILL be the car that you let get away - don't be that old guy retelling the story) and then buy an e36 and build the BMW afterwards.

Oh I understand the task of engineering a double A Arm suspension... No easy task by any means. NOT something I want to engineer. Yes, the wheel bearings love to cook! There is apparently a wheel bearing from some Nissan product that works well as a replacement that is considered to be up to the task, but I never tried that. The 5x100 cars are the only ones with this issue. Subaru swapped to much larger bearings on the 5x114.3 STi hubs and that is no longer a problem. Yes, they really are priced stupidly... I actually wanted to run the Nissan stuff but came across the Subaru bits cheaply. When those brakes first came out in I think '06 on the WRX I was ready to buy pads so I though I would just get pads with the calipers... Not so fast... Had to order the Nissan spec pads as apparently no one in the marketing world had figured it out yet... ALSO, the Subaru dealer NEVER has the hardware in stock, but the local Nissan dealer does!

Very interested to see the progress on this! Lets see some progress!

Ah yes, Subaru suspension stuff swaps so easily between the Subaru Chassis! If going with subaru stuff do yourself a favor GET THE 05+ STI hubs and kunckles. They have much stronger wheel bearings. With tracking and autoxing my '02 WRX (GD chassis) I burnt up three sets of bearings in thr front hubs with stickies. Subaru also has the bolt on ability to use the Z32 TT calipers and they even borrowed them and made them their own from Fuji Heavy Industries. I've got a Subaru suspension graveyard that's for sure! But if you are going to engineer stuff to make the subaru knuckles fit, why not just go ahead and design a SLA double A arm suspension?

If one is using an OEM system I don't understand the problems with it. Is all that I am saying. No you are right I do not understand the trouble codes with the eThrottle stuff... Please explain.

If one is using an OEM system I don't understand the problems with it. Is all that I am saying. No you are right I do not understand the trouble codes with the eThrottle stuff... Please explain.

I agree that there is no safety concern when using an e-throttle. UNLESS you install it in a manner that is undafe. You do not use grommets for the wires going through the firewall and you mount the Throttle Control box in a way that it gets large amounts of heat and water on it. With HP Tuners and the like you can make a GM eThrottle 100% more responsive them the OE tune, you can make it linear or non linear, etc, etc. As was pointed out you can have throttle issues with a mechanical or eThrottle. HOWEVER I still preference a cable throttle for my personal car so long as the eThrottle is at the OEM standard with a delayed response. Sometimes my F150 is so far behind it's not funny. Then again it is a Ford...

I'll have one in the next couple days with a 4 speed. Running motor from what i understand. Once I drop the pan and do a leakdown test I'll let you know what's up. Complete long block. I can even ship if needed (I'm in the Memphis area). -Paul

I can completely agree with that except for the fact that Gm Drive by Wire is SO easy to adapt to any vehicle that it's just as easy if not easier to adapt as a cable throttle to most any motor. With the added benefit of the ability to have cruise control. That being said, I like a cable throttle for it's "feel"

Didn't make it over there got consumed with the Z and other projects this weekend.

I need that! *Counts Change in pocket* $.079?

I could be very interested because the one at the u pull it kinda sucked when I went back someone used it as a workbench... MERF! Yeah yeah yeah... I know, I know! I keep wondering if maybe carbs would not be so much easier! I can at least tune them well! More work tomorrow...

wait....really? I knew something was missing.... lol I amreplacing the rubbers and cleaning the system out.

Yeah... I was hoping it would be there.. but it is NO WHERE IN SIGHT! Even checked just now.... FYI for those wondering, I'm working on this car in a storage unit so that I do not wear out my welcome at work with more then one project car there. Lights in the unit and a 110 outlet not far away, perfect for wrenching when you don't have your own garage. Gated and insured for 60 bucks a month! Can't beat that! I went though my junk and found a Walboro external EFI fuel pump, I might just use that and find some OEM wiring from the u pull it. I have no idea what in the world is going on with this car... It's got some mysteries that is for sure!

Thanks for the complements guys! Braap noted in a PM that the '78 cars started to use the oil pressure switch to turn on the fuel pump. I also noticed something that I was not expecting... where I expected to see the fuel pump... I did not see it! COMPLETELY MISSING FROM THE SYSTEM!!!!!!! WTF! So I gave up on the whole fuel pump bit... Here is the engine bay... lets play pick out what is wrong! You can spy my trusty dewalt 3/8 drive impact - by FAR my favorite tool in the entire world! Love the tape around the AFM boot! Maxi Fuse conversion needed right away! Scary! Connecting the thermotime switch... The next photos are of some wiring that I do not know for sure IF the wiring is stock or not.... Alternator Wiring Starter - I might add that this is the easiest starter to pull!!! Even the BMW 1602 I drove for a bit was harder! Vac Lines... HVAC I assume? Goes from a vacc res on the passenger side by the starter to the firewall and in a grommet on the drivers side. Got rid of the unsightly bumper on the front... With the help of my favorite wrench head Who are you looking at? Working as hard as a 1.5 year old lab can possibly work Original hub caps! Interior So It looks like I am off the the u pull it yard to grab a fuel pump bracket wiring, etc. because there isn't even a friggin fuel pump in the car! I was expecting this: But there was NOTHING there.... No bracket, no wiring, no nothing other then a new piece of hose going from the tank to the surge thing. then straight to the front of the car. Alas, off I go...