ngrimm

You might want to take a look here http://www.mortec.com/carbtip1.htm to get some background on carb sizing and pay special attention to power valve selection and how single/dual plane intake manifolds affect carb sizing. Norm

Fuel filter clogged? Perhaps unhook the hose and see if gas sprays into a can when the pump is running. Also have you checked for spark at the coil and then at the plugs? Good luck. Norm

Here is a reply from the one of the first Turboford guys that I know of to run a Holset on a 2.3. " Port the heck out of the wastegate hole and short side radius just like you would porting a head. Now it will pretty much hold any bost level I set it at and only creep 1 or so pounds of boost towards the upper rpm range." Also he cut into the flange where the flappper hits to allow it open farther. If you cut thru you can weld a cap of some sort over it. Hope that makes sense. Norm

I'm surprised you're have that problem. On my 2.3 Ford all that's been done to the Hy-35 is enlarging the hole and mine holds steady. One of our local 2.3 guys runs an HX-35 and his holds steady too. I have heard tho of some of the Turboford.org guys cutting a hole in the flange to allow the flapper arm to move even more. Could thre be a hole in the hose to the wastegate or even the actuator diaphragm? BTW if you should decide to go with an external gate, the same guy makes some internal wastgate blockoff flanges that are very nice. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Holset-HX-35W-HY-35W-turbo-waste-gate-blockoff-flange_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33634QQitemZ8038941622QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

I use a lighter to shrink the tubing. But you have to be careful. I actually used a butane soldering iron to assemble my MS but I went thru a lot of butane.

I have been using hobbs switches with good results. I built something of a progressive system that utizes a Shureflo pump and an adjustable fuel pressure regulator to raise the water/alky pressure as the boost rises. I have been able to run 20-30 percent more boost which as they say is a good thing.

Have you considered water/alky injection? I believe you could use MS to trigger it. That's quite an impressive set up you have, I really enjoyed your "track" videos too. Norm

I would try a smaller gap on the plugs. Don't know for sure about these ignitions but it is a well documented on the turbo Fords that once you start pushing up the boost the stock electronics don't have the umph to fire the plugs at the factory gap. Stock Ford boost is 15 but I run 28 with water/alky. Norm

How about spark blowout due to overly wide plug gap? It's happened to me many times in my Mustang. Norm

I had the same problem with mine. It was the exhaust manifold leaking due to the end studs being broken and the manifold was warped. I hope that's not it because it is pretty time consuming. The bolts are nearly impossible to get out since you can't even see them. It would almost be easier to pull the engine. Good luck, The Grimm Reaper.

I have a friend in Portland that is selling his V10 Dodge Ram. I've noticed the early ones go for only 3 or 4 thousand. Any one know what it would take to make Viper comparable HP with one of those? Norm

Seems to me there would be a need to tune the a/f when increasing exhaust size to compensate for additional flow thru the engine. Perhaps some of the torque could be recovered that way?

Don't blame you for being cautious with the boost. I have a LM1 if you should want to check a/f when you raise the boost. Whichever Z I keep I think I'll go with water/alky since I've had really good results on my Mustang. I think it's pretty good insurance and in some ways easier to install than an IC in some cars. Just let me know if you want to hook up the wideband. Plus I may need to ask you some questions when I get stumped on the MS. Norm

Never heard about your accident, that's too bad. I had heard one reason the turbo L28 is a little sluggish off boost is that the stock ecu retards the timing to help spoolup. Have you noticed any driveability improvements with the MS over stock? Also any plans for raising the boost? Norm

Thanks for posting the solutions so far. Not everyone does that and it helps the rest of us when we have problems. I'm here in Medford trying to finish the install on my 300zxt. Would like to see your car some time. Norm

I think unless you unplug all the injector connectors you will see 12v on both wires due to the windings. Unplugged you should see 12v on one wire only. As you know, the ecu basically uses grounds pulses on the other wire to make the injector fire. Norm

I'm not so sure after talking to some people at Turboford.net, Here is a quote from there: " Rotational mass has very little to do with the lag/rpm threshold, but has quite a bit to do with the lag/time threshold. For instance, with a massive wheel, you might get full boost by 3500 rpm in a tall gear (that would be rpm lag). But the time lag may be so bad that you would get no boost in 1rst." Norm

I had never considered the mass of the compressor and turbine wheels as a factor before but what Sleeperz said makes sense to me after looking at our twin turbo sbc 350. The turbos we used are from a 2.3 liter Ford so you would think that the twins' spoolup on a 5.8 liter engine would be nearly instantaneous when in reality it is similar to the single 2.3. Don't know if you have checked out Turbomustangs.com but there is lots of info on turbo choices there. Norm

Since a number of people here have used Holset turbos, I just wanted to let you know where to get weldable turbo flanges for several models of the Holsets. He is a good friend of mine and he only charges $25. shipped. I hope nobody minds me posting this link here. It is in the for sale section. Thankyou. Norm www.turboford.net/ubb/ultimatebb.php?=get_topic;f=6;t=008857

I like to have a mechanical connection ie crimp or twist connection, and then solder. What I do is put a short piece of shrink tubing on the wire, twist the wires together as small as possible, solder therm together, slide the shrink tubing over the soldered area, heat the tubing to shrink it. IMHO Shirink tubing is a must since electrical tape will come off eventually. Radio Shack sells packages with several sizes. I always use it when making cables as well. All it takes is one strand of wire to create a fatal short. Norm

That's too bad on the head gasket. In the Turboford world we use a more expensive than standard Felpro gasket and have great results. I blew a standard one very quickly but I have used the better (1035) gasket for over two years including many trips to the strip. I have been running over 25 psi on my hy-35 and the gasket even survived an overboost of over 35 psi when the actuator hose came off. Would it be possible to remove the studs so you could just slip the gasket in? Good luck getting it going again, just remember it's just another bump in the road. Norm

I would try first jumpering pins 2 and 3 on your desktops' serial port and see if you can get it to echo characters using Hyperterminal as per the Megamanual. If that works then try plugging in the straight thru cable and jumper 2 and 3 on the other end and testing with Hyperterminal again. If you can't get that to work it is unlikely that MS will work. I know it can be frustrating. Norm

Thankyou for the info. Now I can get back to the Megasquirt project on the v6. Norm.

I've had boost leaks that only open up under higer pressures do that. Norm

I'm running XP on my older Thinkpad and had no problem connecting to my megasquirt. Did you jumper the cable and try it with Hyperterminal setting flow control to off? Norm