MusPuppis

Down the street from a buddy of mine was a guy not quite that big but in the same weight division who had a gixxer.. He'd throttle it and you could see folds of fat kinda billow out behind him.. In a really horrible way it was mesmerizing. Pooooor bike.

Yeah, lol, Mouse Poop.. haha. Yeah, it can be done for less if you have parts on hand, good deals or simply get real lucky/patient. Stock b6 on stock boost swapped in is good for a 14 second 1/4 mile if I'm not mistaken.. 140-ish hp and 2100pds or so (thats with driver includes, haha).

Davy, I made a little list with general prices in a thread a little bit ago. Basicly, if your careful and patient you could do it for 3300$ or so, assuming you have no parts on hand and everything must be purchased. Feel free to PM me for any other info.

I'd really like to see more pics of molded ZG flares, I'm giving real thought to them myself. I'd love to go with a widebody but for ease, cost and SOME sanity I may just mold some ZG's in, assuming of course I EVER to working on my car.

Hand her the ring and when she says yes, smile and hand her a pre-nup and a pen.. yuk yuk yuk. Sorry, Congrats man, sounds great!

Does it Ulises? Hm.. How does yours act? Our Festy, well, Bryan's Festy goes about 16-17psi in first and second, but in third where it has some time it climbs in excess of 20.. Man its a whole different WORLD up there, god it FLIES. It builds to 16 then holds for like a split second then jumps to 20 pretty quick.. I REALLY wish I could figure out what the hell is going on! By all accounts the damn thing shouldnt boost much over 9psi or so without a boost controller in place! Stock capri boost is 7psi and all we've done other than the ECU (that should have zero bearing on boost levels since nothing in that system is electronicly controlled..) is the FMIC, DP and larger piping to and from the turbo. I see it getting alot more air and everything, but i just dont see a change that should reult in THREE TIMES the stock boost.. Im wondering if the DP isnt maybe catching the WG valve or something and maybe keeping it from opening up all the way.. I dont know. Overboost is most likely what killed us. Well, over boost and 93 octane...... Damn, haha, wish you were closer, I'd love to take you up on that. It'll be a long while before I buy the Capri itself but I'd love to get a shell and start getting it prepped. In all honesty it doesnt take very long to prep, but you get the idea, lol. Get the wiring ready, I could pull Bryan's motor and use it for my mock-up, instead of the RR ecu I'd just go MSnS, but stick with the standard Capri ECU for intial start-up. Mine would be full interior less the rear seat. Slightly larger FMIC, same diameter piping unless I could find a larger TB and adapt it over, but otherwise I see no real reason for the tubing to exceed the size of the TB. Same clutch, lightnened flywheel, blah blah. Really just a more refined version of Bryan's. Now that I've done it once I can get it done alot faster and a whole lot easier than the first time around. Oh well, I'll have the money but I think I'm just gonna stick to my plan of buying an LTI Trans-Am or 1st Gen DSM, I need a car, not a project, lol.

Ya know, I have a little Lincoln Weld-Pak 100 running Flux and for something on a budget the little sucker works its arse off. I really enjoy it. I did all the fabrication on the Festy which consisted of 2 sets of 3 motor mounts (after the first set I got to looking and figured out a way to set it back about an inch further) along with a SLEW of backets and other odd mounts along with an adapater for the AFM to run a cone filter. Ive done exhuast welding, rust repair, frame repairs. For thing guage stuff its pretty nice. I know its not what your after, but just mentioning it for anyone else that reads this by way of being informative. The HF autodark hood is a really good unit by the way. Poeple bang it for some reason but I picked it up for like 53$ with the insurance and its spent a year in my collision repair class and my own garage under fairly heavy useage frm myself and other trusted friends and its still kicking around without a sign of trouble. For an AD hood on the cheap I think its a fine unit. good size lens to,

So for every dollar profit you make you get jacked for 40c? Thats.. I dunno.. Sick?

Nitrous? Cheap, simple, fast, lol.

Thanks for the break-down on how that junk works. I know it doesnt work as claimed, I was just using it as a sarcastic example. Wanna know something REALLY funny? LIKE REALLLLLLLY funny? I do mean funny by the way. Our school shares a common parking lot AND partial building with.. dun dun dun.. A SMALL AIR FIELD! Guess what they have? C'mon! Guess! 105 octane, pump, on hand, all we gotta do is ask real nice and pay out the butt-hole for a tank of the stuff, But yeah, less than, I dunno, 300 yards from where Ive been doing the final tune and trouble shooting work is a pump with 105 octane on hand. And he blows it up with 93. I SO just need to build my own Festiva.. Anyone have a Festy shell for sale? lol.

If we're talking 2010 can I toss in the ported, polished, MSnS'd and nitroused 2Fast2Festy v2.0? Hell, if we're talking 2010 maybe my Fairlady will be on the road (HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAH yeah... yeah.. thats gonna happen..). Engine? If god loves me an RB of some designation or another. If not, some form of boosted something-or-other. Maybe a TT SHO motor? har har, I love getting ahead of myself. The reality will likely be a poorly running, stuttering, almost blown, underboosted, under budgeted L28ET.. But my paint will be stunning!

I got a call from Bryan the other day stating that the Festiva had blown a headgasket. Ok, so its not 'dead' its just disabled, but I havent been able to really take a look at it to check for collateral damage. No telling if something else is toasted... Im a litle pissed. Ok, a lot of pissed. I've spent MONTHS building this little thing for him and he blows it up right out of the gate.. Ive been harping at him, yelling, telling, cussing, whining, bitching, the whole deal that it was NOT READY FOR FULL USE. I mean, we played with it, ran a couple races, those were 3/4 throttle, early shifts, never everything the car had.. Why? fuel pressure issues for one, and the fact it was boosting to 20+psi for a second. 20psi on a 16-17psi tune with a turbo whos safety limit was , in fact, 16-17psi. So, Bryan takes it to lexington for races, I know nothing of this. He tracks down a WRX that rolls around, the guy claims to have like 30 grand invested in the car, from paint, suspension to motor, its very fast, very nasty and is supposed to pull a high 11. Ive seen it EAT some pretty nice stuff, including the 11.90's Civic we lost to a weekend or so ago. So I beleive the guy.. Well, bryan arranges a race and promptly BEATS THE DAMN THING, from what Ive heard it want by very much, but he did beat him, sans slicks to. Yay right? I should be proud my little car did that right? Well, since it blew itself up at the end of the race alot of my pride turned to EXTREME anger when I heard about it.. Lets break down what he did wrong shall we? Tune is meant for 105 octane @ 16-17psi. Bryan put in half a tank of 93 w. a bottle of ♥♥♥♥♥♥♥ NOS Octane Booster. Yeah, thats the same.. EVEN if the crap worked like it claims, which it doesnt, it adds UP TO 7 points or something.. Ok, thats 100 octane, still 5 shy cheif! Wastegate isnt working properly, I dont know why, havent been able to get Bryan to sit still long enough to pull the DP off and inspect the WG itself, the actuator is working.. but we're really overboosting. Anyway, 105 octane gets us safety at 17psi.. so, lets be nice and say 100 octane @ 20+ psi and a tune meant for 17.. YAY! That sounds SAFE! Gosh, I wonder why it popped? I guess we'll never know! Oh, and fuel pressure issues.. I dont know what the hell is wrong, but we cant get more than 35-40psi in the rail on the stock FPR and we've bought three new ones.. So we have a little check valve n the return line I can slide closed to build up more pressure and keep us around 65-80psi, which is what we need as far as I can tell.. It actually boosts and runs normally at those numbers anyway.. BAD for our pump and lines, so its a temp fix, designed to figure out the issue while I find and adapt a better FPR. Walboro 255 pushing the gas. Anyway, You can likely tell just why the car blew up. Its an 80-85% car. You can run it ALMOST to the limit, but not AT the limit, and Bryan did, KNOWING all the problems, all the issues and i THOUGHT knowing the dangers since I am the most paranoid person known to man and have been on his back about the borderline you walk with this sort of motor since the day we started PLANNING the damn car. So whats planned now? We found a copper head gasket, hes ordering that today along with a gasket kit for everything else we'll need for the HG replacement and while we have the head off and at a machine shop being inspected for damage he wants to get it ported out, which is nice, hooray, maybe he'll take his ♥♥♥♥♥♥♥ time with this when I redo it for him and not blow it up before its ready to be driven around. I'm going to do my best to talk him into MSnS with larger injectors as well as a wideband, it'll put the Festy back on the project block for a few months, but I honestly think its the smartest route we can go. He's got a chance to taste the little son of a bitch and roll around in it, maybe that'll slake him enough to let me do this right. There is so much detail stuff that needs doing anyway, like I said, it was only 80-85% done! Wiring needs to be buttoned up, WG needs worked out, FP needs worked out, so so much left to do. BUGGER. I spent 8 months building it, I drove it 5 times for less than 2-3 miles per trip and they were all tuning and check runs.. Bitter? NOT I.

Yup, it overboosted before the MBC, when I had it installed and still does it once I removed it. The downpipe attachs directly to the turbo, I'll pull it off and check for clearance issues today, thing is the actuator arm is able to move freely and the WG linkage the arm attachs to on the outside of the housing moves freely as well, the DP wasnt allowing the WG to open due to an obstruction wouldnt that lock the linkage up? Yup, we're taking the signal from a nipple right next to the boost controller and we've actually tried taking the signal from the exact nipple the boost controller is hooked on to, no success. I think I'm also gonna try and test the full range of the WG linkage.. Maybe the actuator is working but not extending fully? Im starting to get confused here, it acts so oddly.. We boost to 15 a little on the slow side then from 15 to 20 its FAST, and at 20 we let off, but I'm pretty sure it'll just keep climbing until something breaks. More diagnosis and I'll report back.

I'm a collision repair student myself. Sata makes a good gun, but poke around for an Iwata LPH400LV. They pop up on ebay, used for a reasonable price fairly often, I paid 335$ or so for mine, very very lightly used and it is simply a dream. We have a Sata 3000 with the digital read at school and I think the Iwata is superior on every way. Its an LVLP also, not HVLP which means it runs at next to no pressure and requires less over-all CFM (mine is rated at like 9CFM) so using smaller compressors wont result in poor gun performance. Now, you could also look into the DeVilbiss GTI Millinium, with some research (spraygundepo.com) you can find it for sub 300$ and it comes with a 1.7, 1.4 and 1.3 tip, very good all-around gun, outputs alot of material, similar to the sata and has a BIG ass pattern when its wide open, designed around production and speed, its a solid gun for the money and top class. if you intend to do work at home or on the side and wont be in a well outfitted shop, keep the gun CFM requirement in mind, the GTI and Sata are HOGS. They take a sturdy compressor to run correctly. http://www.spraygunworld.com/products/DeVilbiss/DeVilbiss%20DEVGTI620G.htm That website has pretty damn good prices, VERY tough to beat them outside of used equipment or lucky ebay finds. Now, for a good gun on the cheap, the Finishline series by Devilbiss comes well recommended. I'll be honest, I havent personally sprayed with one myself but I know a few poeple that have had great results with them and love the hell out of them. Oh, its my understanding that the Sata with the digital read is nothing different, it just has a very accurate, built in regulator. Nice, but if you have one of the large air dryer/regulators on the wall of the booth, it tends to be alot better to simply turn the pressure down at that and forgo a regulator on the gun itself. Most gun regs restrict flow to lesser and greater degrees and hurt the volume of air, which is important for the gun to spray its best, regulating at the wall with those big bastards is a good way to keep CFM up and limit restriction.

I wish to hell that thing was on my side of the country, It'd be a race between us to get it, haha. What happens first, you sell your car or I get my FA checks? hahaha. Looks like a great deal if it checks out and isnt made of rust on the underside, lol. Good luck man.