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Found 16 results

  1. Hello! I did an rb25det swap for a 1979 280zx, though I'm having issues figuring out the wiring for the alternator; with the original alt' wires disconnected, you can't shut the fuel pump off/dash lights stay on until you disconnect the battery, I've tried splicing the L wires into the Rb's harness but it still has the same issue. Anyone who's done an engine swap found the solution to this?
  2. Hello all, long time, no see. Which is good since I typically only come here when something is bad... anyway I've got this problem, see? Started a bit ago, a little trouble getting the car to start. Classic *click* when I'd turn the key. Checked wiring on my starter, since one has come off in the past leading to this problem... not this time. I rock the car a little in desperation (I'm on a dirt road, quite far from civilization at this point) and somehow it starts up. Whew, I think. I get home. Try turning it on again? Click. all wires connected. OK, must be the batter
  3. Sooo, I thought of doing a small write up after I did this today, so this will not be my best write up... Pictures will suffer, but I tried to pull all the information together. I have added some generic pictures, and how to re-wire your car to use an internally regulated alternator. (not my instruction on how to rewire) First things first... WHY do I need to upgrade?! Well, if you're like me, I now two fuel pumps, two electric cooling fans, blah blah blah... When my car was at idle, I could hear the pumps complaining, and if my fans came on, forget about it. Was it a grounding issue? No,
  4. I have a 1975 280z and recently bought an alternator for a 280zx. I went to install it and realized that the wiring and plugs to the alternator were different from what I was expecting. This is the alternator that was in the car at the time of purchase: This is the alternator uninstalled: The new alternator has a T plug, which is what I believe should have originally been there: This the plug that's in the car now: anyone have any idea why the plug might have been changed? And how hard it might be to return things to stock? I found this on eBay:
  5. Hi guys, I'm about to finish my Lt1 swap on a 75'z, I'm using a CS PLFS type alternator, I connected it to the L terminal going trough the charge light (like in the picture), but when I turned the switch to on the charge light went on and out at almost the same time, then never turn on again and the Alt is not charging... Could be that the resistance of the charging light is too low and needs another resistor? Do you think I burned the regulator or something else? Thank you.
  6. Just got my LS6 up and running using MS3Pro and the DIYAutoTune drop on LSx 24 harness. From the harness, there is 1 wire that goes to the alternator to activate a low charging light. That's the only wire on the plug. The alternator I got reman from RockAuto (98-02 Camaro) was tested fine at AutoZone. The alternator will not charge. I have the hot lug run back to a fuse block where all the large gauge wires centralize from the battery. I tried running a wire from the 'sense' pin on the alternator back to the fuse block so the system has 'reference' voltage, but that didn't work either.
  7. Hello, I am new to this forum. So far, I have found the search function doesn't work as well as some other forums I am on. So if this topic has been beaten to death I apologize, but I did look (both on here and through google). As many posts here have acknowledged, the stock alternators on the S30 leave much to be desired (particularly at idle). I found sites discussing swapping to smaller diameter pulleys, but only in a generic sense. Therefore, I don't know what the alternator on a 1975 280z can handle ...or if it would even help. Has anyone tried putting a smaller pulley in to increase th
  8. Looking for an alternator from a 280zx or 280zxt. Shipping to 94553 Mike Turbodatsun280z@gmail.com
  9. Hi all, In progress of building out an LS1 for my 240z. Currently: LS9 Cam + LS2 front cover + holley carb + intake Using JCI mounts for the swap. (yet to arrive) Electric water pump and no other accessories. Has anyone mounted an alternator low passenger side? If not, anyone run a mini alternator as the only accessory on the driver side? What mount & alternator did you use? Here is my current setup - I fear the alternator sticks out too far: Threads I've already looked into: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/72741-whats-wrong-wit
  10. Hi everyone, I've been getting some advice in the build thread I've got going but figured this would be the better place to chase after the issues I'm having since it's more technical and a better setting to get pointers of what to look for. So the background: 1976 280z with an 11/75 build date if it matters. Effectively stock, save for a few minor things and an L28ET. A couple issues that are electrical-related: 1) The system does not seem to be charging. Charge light was off with the car running. I ran the engine for a bit and noticed the fuel pump kept getting
  11. Car is no longer charging. Can anyone tell me what the role of the Black/Yellow wire is, going to the voltage regulator on a 260z? According to the factory wiring diagram it goes straight to the interlock relay. Is it supplying voltage TO the relay or is it receiving voltage FROM it? For context, here's the issue I'm having: I get 0v at the WB and Y connectors (these run to the F and N terminals on the alternator) There is 12v on the W wire at the regulator. The B wire is showing a strong ground. The BW wire runs inside the passenger compartment and becomes the green wires on
  12. Hey Everyone, My heater blower/defrost switch is working sporadically, and with no rhyme or reason that I can tell. They will work and I can have the car parked, turn it off then immediately on again and then they won't work. Only thought I have is they aren't getting enough power. I think this cuz I've seen the defrost switch light almost go out, but a quick rev brings it back up again. Maybe change the a alternator? Any thoughts? Thanks 71, 240z
  13. Hello all, I have searched low and high to no avail. I am upgrading to a 280zx alternator in my 75 280. I was following the diagram below and carried out with the white to yellow but had noticed that my volage regulator did not have the specified green and red. It appears that the pin hole of the voltage regulator for the G/R was capped from the factory. So I am hoping that there are some guys here that have figured something out for the 75s that could help me finish this up? Thank you in advance... Connect 1-5 (lamp to windings common) green&red to white&black Connec
  14. So here's my delima, I have a 75 280z with a bad alternator, I want to slightly step up to the 85 300zx alternator (already shipped) because I don't physically have it yet I do not know what the new plug style will be and our junk yard only has an 88 300zx, now according the nissan parts website the 85 alternator partnumber is the same 83-86, so i'm just wondering if anyone knows if the plugs are the same so I can snach the 88's
  15. From the album: Black Hole

    Shorthand wire code: wire colour/tracer colour W. White Y. Yellow Bk. black R. Red
  16. Hi all, I know the alternator swap has been talked about and documented a lot here and on other forums, but I'm having a hard time finding specific info for: I have a vintage/historic 240z which I've rewired, completely tore out the old wiring harnesses. I'd like to put in a one-wire alternator, using the same bracket. When I called Motorsport Auto about the 60-Amp Alternator Upgrade Kit, 70-73 240Z http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/spring03a/12-4068 They said that was for the standard harness, not a one-wire set up. So, does anyone know if I can use that as
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