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Len

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Posts posted by Len

    external turbo kit

    in Turbo / Supercharger

    Posted

    If I remember right the setup for a Camaro runs around $3,800....part of the reason why people like it so much is because its so user friendly. The package you get...you could install in an afternoon....Try that with just running I/C piping on our Z's....:wink:

    external turbo kit

    in Turbo / Supercharger

    Posted

    Reason they don't use an I/C is basically same reason they didn't install one on our Z's....they don't run very much boost since it is basically built for a stock engine...on the TA or Camaro I believe they are running 3 to 5lbs. of boost. Higher than that I/C are available.

    60mm tp??

    in Nissan L6 Forum

    Posted

    For me I installed the 60mm 240sx tb along with cold air intake larger injectors and I/C, larger exaust....

     

    I can't tell you if it made a difference by itself...I do know it made a hell of a difference all together.

    For you I would think to round out what you have if its a 280z N/A. Is to go with the cold air intake as you mentioned then install your 280z electronics from your AFM body into a 81/83 280 zx turbo AFM (there are good sites that show step by step ways of doing it). The 60mm. tb. Then possibly headers and buying a set of turbo injectors....you will see a marked improvement and if you shop around won't break the bank.

    Oh yea I think you could get hurt riding around on your bike like that! I guess saves mileage on the rear tire...

    LEAN-ITIS (part duhh)

    in Fuel Delivery

    Posted

    I spliced into one of the two wires of my cold start sensor on passenger side of block...ran the wires into my cab and located a switch that I could flip when cold...just be careful to turn it off once its warm.

    Now I wasen't talking about the cold start valve..(mounted on the intake of pre 79 z's) I was talking about cold start sensor (or temp head sensor) located on pass. side of block screwed in the head...

    LEAN-ITIS (part duhh)

    in Fuel Delivery

    Posted

    what your doing by flipping the switch you installed, is break the cold start circuit causing a rich situation...just like when you unplug it by hand. But once your car warms up then it will start to cause your car to run crappy rich lose idle etc. But will help you until it warms up.

    I forgot to turn it off a few times... once it warms up and starts to die at stopsign and generally run lousy then remind yourself to flip the switch....kinda like the old manual chokes in carb. cars.

    Hey you could even use a button to push (instead of switch) when your engine is running crappy cold ...till it warms up. then you'll just stop pushing the button once its warm.

    No matter what you do, will the turbo go lean at high rpms?

    in Turbo / Supercharger

    Posted

    we are working with cave man electronics...

    That said I remember past phone conversations with ScottyMiz. He always told me "tighten that AFM spring as far as it will go" he mentioned he even broke one spring that way.

    In that way you are addressing the initial rich condition the best way you can. Which isn't that good but its all we have.

    bastaad said...."Personally, I don't think any combination of tweaking the fuel pressure and afm will really ever eliminate the rich spike or give anything like an ideal, flat fuel curve."

    I Agree we are dealing with what we have ..and making the best of it. BTY SDS also offers an x-tra pair of 460 injecter install indexed by boost. But at the price.... we could really take care of things with a standalone systum.

    LEAN-ITIS (part duhh)

    in Fuel Delivery

    Posted

    I'll be honest with you...my car runs like crap until it warms up.

    I know this isn't solving your problem (just covering it up) but to help me on cold day starts; till engine warms up.

    I spliced into one of the two wires of my cold start sensor on passenger side of block...ran the wires into my cab and located a switch that I could flip when cold...just be careful to turn it off once its warm.

    Q-Jet question---where to get parts?

    in Gen I & II Chevy V8 Tech Board

    Posted

    back in the 70's had a Qjet on my 68 olds 442 ran good for a few years then it seemed like I had to rebuild that thing nearly every month...when I eventually rebuilt my 455 engine I switched to a holley...ran better but really seemed not as good as original Q jet...

    I found out just a few years ago from a guy that had the same experiences he said... allot of times the problem is that the carb body including around the linkage etc. just wears out. No amount of rebuilding could change it.

    Made sense to me.

    I got to wear I bought the rebuild kit for $5 right after school...rebuilt the carb in two hours and was cruising mainstreet that night.

    No matter what you do, will the turbo go lean at high rpms?

    in Turbo / Supercharger

    Posted

    Tim "its better to burn out than fad away" I guess I have played the odd's a few times by installing in cab...just that wind kept on blowing it around...also eyesight getting so bad can't see pressure guage readings at wot 80+ mph and trying to drive the car safely (think that's an oxymoron)

    Bastaad..no arguement here concerning pitfalls of caveman stock ecu. Good analigy mentioning "steps" as compaired to a rounded fuel curve.

    That's why I currently have a 1988 300zx turbo parts car in my back yard. If I can find time...I want to do the "switch".

    My suggestions are ways I have found to get the utmost from what we have..and trying to compensate between pig rich at low end and lean at wot. Using our three parameters afm, afpr, timing. As long as everything else is in good working order ie fuel filter, ecu...

    Another other way to help lean at wot...a friend of mine installed two injectors just before TB with a boost activated switch turning them on when at 10 or so plus psi (used to buy from Dawes).

    No matter what you do, will the turbo go lean at high rpms?

    in Turbo / Supercharger

    Posted

    Good point wheelman...that's where the fuel pressure guage taped to windshield or run thru a hole in the firewall (if you do that be sure to use high pressure fuel injection hose..even if only for temp).

    When you go wot look at your fuel pressure as it rises when you get max boost look to see if pressure starts to drop..if so then I would think your lines are too small (or not big enough fuel pump ...but you upgraded that) but I really don't think so. In your 240 you had carbed engine smaller lines..I believe he has an 82 zx car should have larger lines.

    How long since you changed your fuel filter?

    No matter what you do, will the turbo go lean at high rpms?

    in Turbo / Supercharger

    Posted

    Your right Tim but with these 370's usally we have a rich condition until we start going wot then the force of the air thru the flap will open fully wide anyway since the afm's were developed for 7 psi and we are boldly going were old z's have never gone before... to 15 plus psi and beyond.. :)

    I hear what your saying with reference to EZ-E's situation contrary to what his problem is (lean at wot) but hey this helps getting there!

    BTW Frank Zappa is my hero! "I am what I am cow's don't make ham!"

    Should I dremmel my combustion chamber!

    in Other Engines

    Posted

    Good point...except I don't have the tools to weld alunium (never could spell that word..but you know what I'm talking about).

    I think I'll just smooth out the rough edges of the scarred area then as you mentioned smooth around the valves. I'll then re-cc it to see if I'm closer volume with all four chambers then leave it alone. Anyway 11.1 to 1 is pretty high compression for 93 octane (pump gas in OK). so evening chambers out to approx. 10.6 or 10.7 to 1 might be a good thing. I will also be running twin 40 IDF webers along with the better cams.. I would think that would help any possible detonation.

    No matter what you do, will the turbo go lean at high rpms?

    in Turbo / Supercharger

    Posted

    EZ-E I run 15psi also...could go a bit higher in winter...another option is if you have an AFPR set it at say 42 or 44 psi at idle with vacume removed and plugged. That way you can possibly max out your injectors a bit more 59psi.

    Also as Tim mentioned play with you AFM a bit mark where it was. Then tighten it a bit them see what happens...tough without a WB to know for sure (I don't have one either). I have run a mechanical fuel pressure guage with a long fuel injection fuel line in my cab for tuning purposes to really see press at boost.

    Scottymiz ran 17/18 psi with our setup...he also blew up his engine :). 15psi should be OK. I should write a disclamer for that last statement :)

    Should I dremmel my combustion chamber!

    in Other Engines

    Posted

    Ok currently I'm working on rebuilding a 2 liter 4 cylinder 1979 fiat 124 spider engine. Normally they are about 8 to 1 comp. 86hp.

    I am installing 8mm. domed pistons and 40/80, 80/40 hot cams (twin overhead cam alumin head engine).

    I had a reputable racing machine shop do my heads. Before I gave the head to them I told them if they saw the head had any issues... I had an extra head they could use.

    Well got back the completed head...noticed scaring from something in #3 cylinder....didn't look that good...brought it back...they said it will do fine since none of the scaring was where the head gasket mates with the head. I wasen't satisfied...so just to be sure went to another reputable head shop...they said the same thing it was ok....well had some friends over we used a graduated burette and measured the cc's in each chamber. There was a 2.5cc difference in that "scarred chamber as compaired to the other three (53.5cc, 53.5cc 56cc, 53.5cc's). Using our figures that works out to 11.1 to 1 compression on three cylinders and 10.68 to 1 on the scared chamber.

    .... yea regular driving they are probably right saying no problem but for performance I don't know I just don't like it..this could not be good ...

    I was thinking of slightly smoothing out the scaring anyway....but then I thought what if I smooth out just enough on each of the other three combustion chambers to equal the 2.5 cc's.

    What do you think? am I playing with fire possibly disrupting the swirling effect of those scientifically developed hemi combustion chambers with my dremmel tool....I will also contact some more head shops showing them exactly where the trimming will be...but just wanted to ask what you guys thought?

    guys please help me out on this... really in a jam

    in Nissan L6 Forum

    Posted

    the above suggestions sound like the causes of the problem may be closer to being solved...Just a question how did you check out your afm? Some but not all of the conditions sometime can relate to a bad one ...but then again also bad/grounded spark...

    After addressing the spark.....take a few steps back deep breath then go thru everything again...head temp sensor connected (causes rich condition), ecu good...check plugs to ecu, check for no vac. line or air leaks in afm to turbo boot... etc. etc. etc.

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