Len
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Posts posted by Len
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Good Luck KW...I'll be on the side waiting for your information you compiled on your great adventure!
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Vince is right!
I don't mean to make light of your fuel smell! I had the problem years ago with Volvo 122s. It ended up being the gastank having two leaks at the seam.
Check it out! People look at you weird if you talk in tongues and your not in church!
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Nic
You know I haven't thought of that. I need to stop wearing trenchcoats!
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Don't make left turns!!!!!!
I told you two or three teeth....Now WHO'S YOU Daddy!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Just remember We get what we pay for A 1981 to 83 280 xzt n FMS you want more get a Haltec, SDS, Z31 FMS otherwise enjoy the ride! But it is fun to push the max
on what you got! -
Adjusting the sprocket on your AFM is not a exact process. As we all know dealing with 1981/83 electronics. I've noticed every AFM is slightly different what works for one won't be same for another. If you have just a $25 A/F gauge tied into a 4 wire O2 sensor you can dial it in a bit before dyno testing (yea I know won't work really until wot but to me a 4 wire seems to do a bit of readings before wot ).
A thought.......... "intermission
"....A sidebar: Now do you think if right now you invest in a $340 wideband A/F guage. Where you can then basicly tune pretty close since alot of dyno places use a wideband. All the money you save over longterm would pay for the purchase of a wideband? (that's what I'm planning)Now back to the AFM sprocket; be sure to mark position of sprocket before your changes, then move 2 or 3 teeth at a time? Without a measuring device really can't say...Good luck
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only way I can think of to lean out your midrange is tighten your sprocket in your AFM a few more cogs. At WOT the AFM flap will be fully open anyway. So tighten it a bit so at midrange you will have enough resistence not be as open to tell your ECU to not flow the injectors as much........
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Thanks Brad for additional info...
What did you pay for your upgrade turbo from turbonetics. If you don't mind me asking?
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Thanks Yo for the clarification.
Did you get that Tim; I was incorrect in my assumption...
I do remember Cody mentioning awhile back about having to replace his rubber hose with a metal 3" pipe for his AFM to Turbo connection.
With reference to the whisleing noise. At times I noticed something like that. It seemed to happen maybe when I get on it when car is kinda cold...I just sorta thought maybe turbo oil circulation wasen't lubed enough. Or that my turbo was slowly wearing out? Hasen't done that for awhile..
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What do you think of their opinion...
You know; late at night I sneak out to my shop open the hood on my83 ZXT and just look & think of what it would be like to have a fully tunable computer. Instead of my stock caveman unit. Powering all the mods (correctly) I put in her so far.
That write up along with your success and possibly the added benefit of learning about EFI by building it; is really driving me....
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Tim
They must be talking about the output pipe comming out of the turbo intake side. Which if stock would be the J pipe in our case would be the piping we ran to our I/C which in my case is 2 1/4 "and in fact I believe I had to step down connecting to my turbo intake side /outlet to 2" anyway. So may be cool with a turbo upgrade depending on what diameter is the "charged" intake /outlet? Anyone know that by chance?
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Head of Nissan/Datsun passed away today at 91 years....
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They have a write up concerning the Innovate LM-1 in Car craft Feb 2004 issue. I'm not to informed on the tech edge. Would like to be....By the way ...Merry Christmas guys
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A.G. that's a good site!
I couldn't add to much more except in the early 70's when I was growing up (currently now I'm growing out). We had a guy named Bloodsworth in a town named Pauls Valley do a v8 conversion on a vega.
That was the end of the muscle cars being the fastest things going in our area. Shut down my 68 Olds 442 real fast!!! He had a 350 tranny and cut up a rear end to put under her (along with much needed suspendtion mods).
Bloodsworth died few years later in a head on collision....
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Yea Saw that on Jeg's E-mail sales. That's a Good deal Grump! Although I am running out of money buying all these "good deals" around Christmas...
Tis the season to donate tward family; including WIFE presents. To allow for future "good deal" purchases for my toys later in the season. -
Thanks for the help identifying the block by serial # That's a great site!
Appreciate it Mike!
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I asking about identifying signs because I will be looking at a 400 ci engine and wanted to make real sure it was a chevy doesn't matter to me if a 2 or 4 bolt main) 400 sbc and not possibly a pontiac or even just a 350 for that matter.
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Badriver
I thought they all had three freeze plugs on either side. How would a person be sure he has a later two bolt version 400sbc by identifying marks? Wonder what # and where located identify 400 sbc from the outside?
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Sounds like FUN
Yea! two types of 400 SBC 1970 to 72 they were 4 bolt then 1973-80 they were two bolt main bearing caps.
Both have same 4.125 bore 3.75 stroke 2.65 main journal dia. 2.10 rod journal dia. I get excited just thinking about those 400's
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Thanks Nic. I'll try that. I just remember on the old Hybridz site they had a printer friendly mode. Worked great. I guess during the transfer and using this server was not able to make the move!
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Maybe I am staring right at it but on the old site we had a printer friendly mode. Do we have one on this site, to save important imformation without using up ink coping avatars etc.
Also I tried printing some posts and find I lose the whole right portion of the printed post (about and inch of print)? Am I doing something wrong?
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Yea What Mike said
Mike did you ever narrate a Speedvision special on the Camaro 302? If you did I think I saw it
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I believe No Yenko's were 302's only big blocks. The 302's were the answer to the ford trans am boss 302's. The 302 was the Max displacment they were allowed to race. I believe Chevy produced just enough to be allowed to run superstock.
Speedvision had a great show about them. They had dual quads
. A guy mentioned they came stock around 300 plus HP. If you tweaked them a bit he said would put out 450 PLUS!!!! -
Yea! I guess I was a bit sneaky along with wanting to know for myself. I figured it would be around the $2000 to $3000 range. But also didn't want to outright ask you if you thought of it. Now we both know
. Thanks
Hey maybe Santa for Christmas might give us a hand!
I always wanted to work a 400 SBC maybe not as hot as what your interested in. But would be neat to see what one could do with good rebuild & decient heads, cam etc.
Good Luck
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I've sept since I checked but I believe one of those lines from your "T" comes off of the underside of your intake for vac press. indexing. I'd make sure all your lines are air tight (no leaks for false readings), try squezing your spring. Could be too long/strong.
But I'd still remove the MBC and see if you have stock boost as a reference point. If you have your MBC screwed all the way as far out as it can go; its gotta be to stiff a spring; air leak; or plugged to cause you to boost 20psi. Maybe your waste gate is frozen shut?
I've run out of ideas, wish I could help.
on what you got!
. A guy mentioned they came stock around 300 plus HP. If you tweaked them a bit he said would put out 450 PLUS!!!!
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