RTz

Hi Moby, Sure have, on a 510... . . . . 2 triggers, each firing 2 posts, same-same as the Ford coil pack. Primary resistance was within .1 ohm of Ford.

Sven, Don't sweat it... Braap has had a 'thing' for Formula V8's for a while now

Start here... http://wolfems.cart.net.au/details/635751.html Note: this defualts to Australian currency... click on the USA flag, lower left for US dollars. I'm going to make a standing offer... $100 off listed price to anyone donating $25 to HybridZ (within the preceding 12 months) PM me if you have questions.

Cowboy up boy's.

Two for the books... Clint Barnts, NA 2.8, Mustang Dyno, stock intake manifold, stock cam, massaged stock EFI, square port Braap head, Electromotive DIS, 8.1 Comp, 6-2 header, 2.25" exhaust... 160HP/161 ft/lbs (at the wheels). AFR's a bit rich particularly at torque peak. I believe another 5lbs/5hp is attainable with a smidge more tuning. Mike Hintz, NA 2.8, Dynojet, stock intake manifold, stock cam, massaged stock EFI, round port Braap head, re-curved stock igintion, 9+ Comp, 6-1 header, 2.5" exhuast, 146HP/152 ft/lbs. AFR's fairly close. Both indicate the possibility of breaking 200 crank HP with the stock intake manifold and street-able exhaust. Additionally, both of these cars are in the middle of... uh, reform... more numbers in the future.

I asked Dave Kipperman what his LS1/T56 240 weighed... 2500lbs was his reply.

Thanks Eric, Agreed, the mural is classy. No, not my car... just a very loyal customer.

Thought I'd share the latest, ceramic coated, N42 from Braap, built for a customer of mine... Before... . . . After... . . .

For the record, not everything Braap posts pictures of is entirely his work

I dug out a TWM leaflet. According to them, this is the output of a typical NBO2... .

Jon, A NBO2 is very accurate at 14.7. It is FAR less accurate on either side of 14.7, and is exacerbated by varying temperatures. However, I believe a savvy guy can get by with a NBO2 on an NA car, just as you have done.

Thanks.

Sounds like a good run. I'm with Piper... details would be appreciated... cam, head, intake, exhaust, fuel, ignition, comp. ratio, blah, blah, blah. Thanks,

Do I really do that? Give me an example??? Since you've made me feel guilty... Yes, I have a large percentage complete of a custom L6 manifold. Saturday we base-lined the donor car (Mustang Dyno) for reference. At this time, I will not share pictures. My drawings are all 2D so I'd be forever trying to explain it. You'll have to wait a little longer... I assure you pics will be posted.

Unable to comment at this time

Here is half of your answer... . . Sorry... I can't help with the ITB centerlines.

Bienvenidos, LT1 powered/6-speed, 240z... .

Hilarious!

Through Jan 30th, Wolf themselves, is offereing a 10% discount to Car Club members. Also, If you donate $25 to HybridZ, I'll personally knock off $25. I don't want to see this thread turn into spam (kind of late, I guess). So, if you have questions PM me.

:biggrin:

Start here... http://wolfems.cart.net.au/details/635751.html?action=set_currency&currency=USD If you're looking for a manifold, TB, and fuel rail, this one is officially for sale... . . I'll post better pictures and attach a price in the next week or so.

Here are a few for you to research (there are more)... Wolf3D Motec Autronic Haltech SDS Electromotive VEMS Pectel My personal choice is Wolf3D. In my opinion, it has the best combination of flexibility, power, ease, and price. Hence, I sell them. Spec. sheet for Version 5... http://wolfems.cart.net.au/details/635751.html?action=set_currency&currency=USD

This approach is risky at best. There are probably a few, very experienced old timers that could get away with this ('cept they wouldn't bother with a narrow-band either). However, for most of us, its not the safest nor the most efficient path.

John, Have you made any effort to cool them off externally to verify that this is whats actually happening? It might also be interesting to see check the resistance of the injector during this time?

Another way to tell is by the underhood sticker. I believe you'll find it on the upper core support (above the radiator) in that car. As far as the swap goes, I think its a good choice if you're on a strict budget.