RTz
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Posts posted by RTz
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Awesome. Thanks.
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Merry Christmas!
Finished up the driver side exhaust. Well, a beta version anyway. The mufflers I picked up are Walker Quiet Flow's and advertised as factory replacement with nearly factory sound levels. I'm not convinced enough to invest a large amount of time into a nice exhaust system, so I cobbled up something for testing purposes. Hopefully I'll have time this weekend to build the passenger side so I can call the exhaust 'done'.
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Thanks for the ideas, Tony. Keep them coming.
Laser cut a fan bracket from .090" 6061...
Riveted, gasketed, U-nut'd...
Fans Mounted...
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I had a gauge panel laser cut from 1/4" aluminum...
Painted it with Harley-Davidson "Texture Black". It's a nice finish that has a very fine 'sanded' texture to it. It's fairly tough and easy to apply. Then I dropped in a suite of Speedhut's. The GPS Speedo/Tachometer is 4.5" and the rest are 3.375". Illumination is red, face and needle...
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Anthonioh19,
Please read our rules before posting again... http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?app=forums&module=extras§ion=boardrules
Also, don't post videos containing explicit language without a warning.
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Thank you
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Bumblez, please rear our rules, particularly #5... http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?app=forums&module=extras§ion=boardrules
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Hope everyone had a great Turkey Day.
Finished up the alternator adjuster...
Pretty well have the engine tin wrapped up. Just needs some fasteners, a little filing here and there, and some paint. I've left about a 1/4" gap all around the engine and transaxle...
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We are also thinking about swapping in a Porsche 901 rear suspesnion (which will blow the $3,500 number I listed above).
Considering the forte of Benton, I can see a real justification for air cooled. If you guy's are considering the 901 rear suspension, maybe a Porsche 6 would fit into your market a little better?
And Ron, here's a better Subie engine option:Definitely. I think there may be a minor budgetary misalignment, though!
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You are building my perfect S30, David.
When you're done it'll retain all the wonderful sounds and feel of the original, while having the response, drivability, and NA simplicity of original, yet turn 12 second 1/4 mile times, rev to the moon, get better fuel economy, and not gain a single pound of weight. Pure tactile and aural bliss combined with supercar performance. Can't think of a more intoxicating Z experience than this one. -
I think the most challenging aspect of a liquid cooled swap in a Bus is the cooling system, especially if you want the Bus to keep its air cooled appearance. I've poured through many peoples projects and there are a number of ways people go about it. But I'd say the two most common radiator strategies are belly mounted...
And side mounted...
It seems that belly mounting has been typically less troublesome for most swappers, probably in part due to the seriously large radiators that can be fitted in the space available. Aside from the vulnerability issues, the main thing I have against them is that, here in the Pacific Northwest, we have an extended rainy season and with that comes a lot of road grime. I'm not sure I'd be content with the maintenance hassles of belly mounting.
Side mounted radiators have worked great for some, and less great for others. There are a few things I'm not crazy about with side mounting:
Venting. If you can't get air out, you can't get it in. Most people are relying on the air being forced down and around the engine. While I haven't tested it, I'm reasonably certain the air coming from the underside of the Bus is pressurizing the engine compartment (like most cars). This means the radiator exit air must overcome this pressure build up sufficiently. Guys have found various methods of venting the engine lid helps which helps confirm my suspicions. And that brings us back to keeping the 'air-cooled appearance'. I'd rather avoid visual venting in the body if I can help it.
Coolant filling. In order to have a high point fill you need to get creative and more than likely have the filler high and inside the cabin. At the very least, cutting an access hole in the rear deck (in '73 VW started putting access lids over the engine, so that makes it a little easier with later Buses).
High point bleed. Same issue's as filling.
Air intake is always getting hot air (unless some creative intake plumbing puts the air filter somewhere not so user friendly).
Battery. The normal place for a battery is now covered up by the radiator. That means relocating the battery inside the cabin and that means an expensive sealed battery or a vented enclosure.
I decided to try a different type of mouse trap. The EJ is so short (front to rear) that there is a decent sized area left behind the crank damper. A 36" x 8" x 3" radiator will fit lying flat. So I had Ron Davis build a radiator to those dimensions...
It holds more than twice the coolant volume of the Subaru radiator and core surface area is around 4 times greater as well. The Bus is similar in weight to the Suby Legacy, but the Bus pushes more air at elevated speeds. I'm gambling on this being enough to compensate for the additional aero drag and the occasional light loads this Bus might carry.
The trick to getting this to work will be sealing the engine to the engine compartment. I don't believe it must be air-tight, just reasonably so. Creating a low pressure on the bottom side will also probably be necessary.
If this works, it addresses all of my complaints about side mounting and belly mounting. The immediate downside with this scheme is that it seriously limits exhaust routing choices. But we all like a good challenge, now and then
Here it is being test fitted...
The EJ throttle body will hit the firewall on Bay Bus's. There are throttle reversers available, but I decided to flip the intake manifold around backwards instead. This impacts a few items, but the biggest crash is with the alternator. I CAD'd up a bracket ant had it laser cut from 6061. I still need to build the rear mount and adjuster but you get the idea...
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That splitty looks delicious. Fuch's are on my must have list, but I gotta get this thing road worthy before I can convince my better half the world will stop spinning unless I have a set
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Wrapped up the motor hanger/mount. The Bus has a robust Bellhousing mount from the factory. The Subaru motor mounts are near the rear of the engine, which means that there is only about 6†from mount to mount. This also means that the motor 'hanger' doesn't need to be terribly burly. Just stout enough to share the duties with the Bellhousing mount and relieve some stress on the upper mating bolts/bosses.
I started with some 10 gauge U-Brackets I had laying around from another project, machined some ferrules and 1x1 tubing...
Welded the U-Brackets to the frame and the rest fell into place...
The Suby oil pan is tall. If left as-is you lose about 3" of ground clearance. I ordered a shortened pan and pick-up from Outfront Motorsports. It's 1 ½" shorter than stock, has a 10ga bottom plate, and I can still run about 5 quarts of oil.
I also picked up a shortened billet Oil filler from Outfront...
Installed...
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The Kennedy adapter, flywheel, and Stage 1 clutch arrived from Pacific Customs. Tom was awesome to work with. Professional, organized, and patient with all of my stupid questions.
Got most of the major grime off the motor and bolted up the adapter/flywheel…
Removed the old Type 4 motor and bolted the Suby in its place…
It fits great. More room than I had expected and, so far, easier to work with than the stocker.
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Tore apart my Wife's '95 Legacy... after buying her a 2013 replacement of course. She's happy. I'm happy. We're all happy.
Engine came out easily. Very easily...
The harness was a lot less easy. Unfortunately the EFI harness is fully integrated with the chassis harness. It's also buried behind EVERYTHING. Dash, supplemental structure, HVAC, etc. Took about 3 hours just to pry it from the cold dead carcass. But alas...
Then began the purging of all the unwanted chassis electrics. In a couple of evenings I got it whittled down to a near minimum and celebrated with obligatory suds. In this case I tried out a new brew. 10 Barrel Brewing "Pray for Snow" Winter Ale. Very Nice. Will definitely buy again.
I'll bench test it in this state, then tidy it up.
Also, I ordered the KEP adapter today. They tell me I'll have it mid-week.
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RTz do you have the specs for the standoffs and bolts as when I got the bracket from ZCCJDM there was only the bracket in the packaging...
.500" OD
.250" ID
.450" Long
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...And if you're like me running 55/100's or 80/120's on the 'night driver' relays become mandatory.
Tony, I have a pair of nice E-Code's that I bought from H4lights. What brand/model 55/100's do you like?
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Love the bus,,, subaru motor will be awesome. I know everyone has seen the bus that they put the porsche twin turbo all wheel drive in!
Thank you.
Are you speaking of The Race Taxi? Agreed, it is a MASTERPIECE. However, I'm thinking that its not AWD. If you know of an AWD counterpart, don't hesitate to link it here!
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Did we forget the 'T' at the end of EJ22
Looking forward to seeing what you do with it, I've always loved Subaru and VWs!
The T is a future possibility
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Damn Ron, how many projects do you have going? How's the Locost?
Too many!
The Locost has evolved into Hicost. I'm expecting to receive my custom roll hoop and back-stays in the next week or so. It's moving along. Slowly.
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If anyone is interested in procuring Modern Motorsports PM me and I'll put you in touch with Frank.
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I've had a couple Bay's in the past, but that was long ago. I miss owning one and every 2 or 3 years get the itch have another. By pure chance I ran across this '72 Panel. Freshly painted inside and out, all new window/door seals, reupholstered/carpeted, new brakes, and so on. Long story short, my better half agreed that this one was 'it' and we towed it home. Got it running/driving in a few hours, but it doesn't run terribly well. Carb's are out of tune, low compression, etc, etc. Weighing out my options, I've decided to Hybrid-ize it with an EJ22.
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Maybe i am an idiot, but in the past year and a half, the only 4 inch holes i saw anywhere in my floor were rust. Either way, i like your style.
I was in one of my less charming moods. New-to-240z was a good sport though, so I gave him 10 Internet points. -
Nice motor mounts
I was in one of my less charming moods. New-to-240z was a good sport though, so I gave him 10 Internet points.
VW Bay Window Bus - Subaru Powered
in Other vehicles
Posted
It's something we've stocked at the shop for 20+ years. I couldn't tell you the brand, but it's a low density open cell foam with an industrial adhesive. If you need a sample I can send you some.
I use http://marks-brothers.com/ for my laser cutting. They're about 20 minutes from me and on my way home from work. I've toured the shop a couple of times and had many things burned there. They are top notch to deal with and have the best pricing I've found in the Portland area. They also have a tube laser, which is rare around these parts.
I'm sure they would arrange shipping in the U.S. but that would probably blow the cost savings of using them. You'd probably be better off finding a local shop.
I'm using AutoCAD and just send in clean DWG's. I 'hear' most shops can make use of vector graphics, but I'd have to ask if Mark Brothers can.