Jump to content
HybridZ

RTz

Administrators
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    2941

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    23

 Content Type 

Posts posted by RTz

    What can I eliminate from my engine bay?

    in Nissan L6 Forum

    Posted

    Start by reading the Factory Service Manual. Strangly it describes every system on the engine. Then search the internet for more information on how each of those systems function. Remember, that Nissan put each of those items on there for a reason. It would have been cheaper if they left it off, so it must do something. Read the emissions thread on here before you start thinking you don't need whats on there.

     

    Gold star for you. Yes, there is life beyond the internet. People have been doing this stuff long before forums were readily available. We bought books and read them. A used FSM will cost less than a tank of fuel and be an invaluable source of information for as long as you own your Z.

     

     

    In the picture i see that the car is running coil packs, is this a hard mod to do?

    It depends on your skills/experience. For some people here it’s a walk in the park. For others, not so easy. I’d say, if you’ve never done anything like it or much EFI work, it will probably be a bit of a challenge. Pretty much all modern aftermarket EFI packages are capable of a multi-coil system and they’re all just a little different. Find a local EMS dealer and see what system he recommends and talk to him about your ignition choices. A good dealer will be happy to help you understand what ‘his’ system will require.

    What can I eliminate from my engine bay?

    in Nissan L6 Forum

    Posted

    What can I eliminate from my engine bay?

     

    A lot... potentially.

     

    This car still has A/C and power steering...

     

     

    MikeHintzCoils.jpg

     

     

     

    Every part/piece on your car serves a purpose. Before you start ripping and tearing, I would recommend trying to understand what it is you're trying to remove, relocate, or replace.

    Welders

    in Fabrication / Welding

    Posted

    I'll second Jon's post. I've done it quite a bit for both personal projects and in industry.

     

    As far as heat, the 140 should do fine with a S.S. 16ga. butt weld. My 130 struggles a little on fully lapped 16ga. S.S., though.

    Welders

    in Fabrication / Welding

    Posted

    Ross, I've been using a 110v Millermatic 130 for about 15 years. It's been a great machine. It welds the heck out of .0625. It'll do a pretty decent job on very light gauge metals with .023 wire. For corner welds it does a fine job up through 10ga, providing you keep the duty cycle down around 50%. But, it won't do a proper structural weld on lapped 10ga. For that type of work a 220v machine is needed.

    driveline angles (please help!)

    in Drivetrain

    Posted

    1) The diff is offset laterally.

    2) The angles that matter are the U-joint angles. They need to be equal to each other, and minimal.

    3) Knowing the stock angles is not going to help you.

     

    I've fought this very thing with V8 conversions. An aluminum driveshaft can make a tremendous difference.

    E36 M3 Suspension in a 240z

    in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis

    Posted

    Peej,

     

    You were right, pulling the numbers from a fully assembled car is a little challenging.

     

    I took the measurement as follows:

     

    Point A... At the front mount of the sub-frame at the bottom of the cars structure.

    Point B... At the bottom side of the RTAB cradle. There are too many layers of metal to get a good measurement at the mounting surface of the cradle without taking things apart. Aside from the bolt heads, the bottom is flat and ‘clean’.

     

    The result is: Point B is 15/16” lower than point A, +/- 1/8”

     

    M3RearSubframe.png

    rt260, BMW M Powered

    in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z

    Posted

    FOR SALE

     

    I finished up all four sets. Three are spoken for and shipped. I have one set left...

     

     

    S52toS30Z.png

     

     

     

    First $150 in my Paypal account takes them. Shipping is included in the US. If outside the US, PM me and I'll get you a quote.

     

    P.S. The black paint is a very light coating just to protect them until you're ready to install. It will remove quite easily.

    rt260, BMW M Powered

    in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z

    Posted

    Looks like you got the 6bolt CV flange on the diff flange. Most 95 M3s had the black sheep diff with the CV joint at the rear of the driveshaft. Any other year of the e36M3 will have the same case, but with a 4 bolt flange.

     

    As you mentioned, the '95 M3 diff I have came with a CV. It was a manual coupe. My '98 M3 coupe w/manual trans came with a U-joint. BRAAP's '97 M3 sedan w/manual came with a CV. Another friends '98 M3 w/automatic has a U-joint. To be honest I haven't figured out the pattern, but I can't say I've tried, either. If you have the magic decoder ring, don't be bashful :-)

     

     

    Are you going to keep producing those mounts?

     

    I don't have any plans to keep making them.

     

     

    If so how much are you selling them for?

     

    See next post.

     

     

    I've always thought a boosted s52 would be an awesome swap.

     

    You and I think alike :-D

    Best swap for mid-engine balance

    in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z

    Posted

    Okay, I didn't have the exact weights in front of me during my initial post, but the Vq35DE weighs in ~330Lbs according to Nico. From here on Hybridz the L28 weighs ~523Lbs.

     

     

    I apologize for sounding d**k-ish, but I don't find those links very convincing. I have a little more faith in something like this...

     

    http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/59086-enginetrans-weights-definitive/page__p__540506__hl__definitive__fromsearch__1#entry540506

×
×
  • Create New...