Lone Star 1

Hey Nion I bought my motor from Scoggin-Dicky on 2/22/01. It arrived the next day in Mesquite, and I purchased the 4L60E Tranny from HPSalvage on 3/8/01. With these two big ticket items in hand I went to work. Looking back through my receiptes I see that I purchased my raditor hoses on 4/19/01 this being about the finishing touch before driving. So I would say it took me about 2 months of planning and assembling before I was able to drive it again. All the body, paint, and restoration I had none previously. Looking back on the experence it seems that it took a lot longer. I was able to work on the car almost every day ( slow work period) some days (nights)as much 12 hrs. I was pretty focused on finshing this project Quickly! There were days ( trying to build a small gas tank that I could mount an intank fuel pump into, to the point of installing the presure regulator, and fuel filter on the car ) only to test and find out it had about 5 leaks. Wasted days and several days after disassembling from car, and trying to weld off these leaks. Finally coming to see that it was all wasted time and made a tank that used an inline fuel pump. But all the trials,sweat, and tears were worth the the end results IMO. High performance!!! [ August 13, 2001: Message edited by: Lone Star 1 ] [ August 13, 2001: Message edited by: Lone Star 1 ] [ August 13, 2001: Message edited by: Lone Star 1 ] [ August 13, 2001: Message edited by: Lone Star 1 ] [ August 13, 2001: Message edited by: Lone Star 1 ]

Yes you will want more. HP that is.

Hey Scott The fuel pump on for my LS1 is rated at 125 PSI also so I had to install a pressure regulator to keep the pressure at 52 PSI which is what GM recomends for the LS1.

Hey Ryan Look in the members ride section to see my LS1 4L60E conversion. GM now sells both the LS1 and LS6 as crate motors about $5600 and $7500, the LS1 comes with EMC but not sure about the LS6. Many salvage yards deal only with late model F body cars there are at least two in my area, and you can find fairly new motors and trannys with wiring and ECM's. Happy hunting. [ August 02, 2001: Message edited by: Lone Star 1 ]

Hey Ashe I have an LS1 with the 4L60E auto in my Z with a 3.36 diff. I'm getting 20 MPG in town and 26 MPG hiway. This motor is making 289 RWHP and somtimes I still wish for a little more. This motor and automatic can be completely docile and a great driver, or just hit the gas and say goodbye! My point being a nice little LT1 or LS1 with the tranny of your choice will make your Z your most favorite ride. The new newer EFI motors with overdrive trannies are very relieable and fuel efficient.

Hey Vihn How do you know the motor in the Impala is a 383. Chevy didn't make a 383 in any late model Impala's. What you need to look for is a donner car for both the motor(with emmision controls) a trany you want in your Z. I think most would agree that if you intend to drive this car as a steet car you will want a trany with overdrive, so your probley looking for a late model donner car. For emmision you will need to find a donner the same year or newer than your Z anyway. Good luck with your search, and happy Z-ing. [ July 31, 2001: Message edited by: Lone Star 1 ]

Hey BKC I did all the body work and paint myself, and even though its not perfect, it looks pretty good. I had no previous experience with any of this type of work, and made lots of mistakes, but it's my car and I know it inside and out. I found out later that the local junior college has a body works class, and you get to paint your car in their new paint both.

Hey Lone that diagram is real close to the way my fuel system is set up but all those components are mounted in the back by the gas tank. Don't you think that with fuel being sent through the stock Z fuel line at 58 PSI that more fuel could be delievered to the motor than say at 6 PSI like a lot of the carb'ed V8's that use the stock Z fuel line?I have just been worried that I'm not getting all the HP I can. [ July 23, 2001: Message edited by: Lone Star 1 ]

Hey guys my dad just gave me his 20 year old Mercedes 300 SD turbo diesel. This car only has 93K mile and except for hail damage on the trunk looks new. From a dead stop acc is slow but picks up after the turbo spools up. Just would like to know if there is any way to up the boost on one of these old cars. Does any one make performace part for turbo diesels. Or my its LS1 time. PS: I looked under the rear of this car today and it has an IRS and uses CV's, and the Diff looks alot like my Z's Diff. Any one ever looked into a Mercedes rear end swap? [ July 23, 2001: Message edited by: Lone Star 1 ]

Sorry I did'nt see your post sooner. Mine are 15 x 8 with 205 60 R15 on the rear and 205 50 R15 front. Motor Sport was not selling the 16's when I bought mine but I have been thing about buying two for the rear of my car.

Might look into the 99 and newer GM 5.4 L LS1's cast iron blocks and alum. heads. Should be a fair supply of wreaked trucks in a couple more years. I think these motor make about 270 HP, and they uses the 4l60E auto trans. If you could fine one to salvage it would make a great little car. A 73 in Texas needs pass a safty inspection only, and does not need any smog stuff. JTR bought the pic's of my LS1 conversion and suspect they will be bring out a LS1 conversion kit in the forseable future. Good luck with you project, and keep studing, and learning from the others on this site. [ July 22, 2001: Message edited by: Lone Star 1 ]

Hey guys I have been woundering if the stock fuel line in my 73 Z is big enought for the stock LS1 motor. I run it at 58 PSI as per the GM F-body books. I just not sure that at WOT I'm able to maintain that pressure. What do you all think?

Hey guy I had new 240 Z in 72 and bone stock it would run 125 MPH. Gee that sure makes me fill old. Wish I would have keep that car, but my new 73 240 LS1 Z is a lot more fun. 130 MPH is never more that 13 second away!

To me it matters as to the year of car you'er working with. 73 and older need not pass emission test and you can use any motor you like. 74 and older, at less in Texas have to pass emission test. This being the case, I think it's best to buy a car with the motor/trany combo you want and get all the emission equipment you'll need to make the car pass inspection.

In an article from GM High-Tech Performance " One of the most notable engineering changes on the new motor was the discontinuation of the LT1's revolutionary reverse-flow cooling system," "As for the LS1, its heads are so much better that they make more power without the emissions penalty."

Hey Tom It's my understanding the GM stoped using reverse flow heads when they designed the LS1. Also the LS1 uses a distributor that is mounted behind the water pump and works in conjunction with the cam shaft sensor and the crank shaft sensor, which both work with the computer. So I'm not sure how you would get a non computerized LS1 to fire. [ July 15, 2001: Message edited by: Lone Star 1 ]

If you used a soild color to paint your car wetsanding and polishing will work. If you used a metalic color without a clear coat wetsanding will give a bad looking finish. If you clearcoated you can sand, just doin't get into the metalic color.

Has any one thought of doing like some of the Mustang do it. Fake side pipes down the side rocker panels. or a replacement rocker panel that looks like side pipes. While the real exhaust system runs down the tunnel and turns out in front or the rear wheels and into the fake oval side panel outlet. That little triangle area behind the seats might make a nice location for the muflers. The post that follows this post is the same as I'm talking about. I believe these are fake sidepipes with the real exhaust just terminating at ovel end. [ July 12, 2001: Message edited by: Lone Star 1 ] [ July 12, 2001: Message edited by: Lone Star 1 ] [ July 12, 2001: Message edited by: Lone Star 1 ]

Yes I have the LS1 and 4L60E in my 73Z. You can see pictures in members ride section.

I didn't read all the post on this subject, but keep in mind that a fare amount of wiring runs down the right side in the door rails. These wires would more than likey need to be relocated. [ July 11, 2001: Message edited by: Lone Star 1 ] [ July 11, 2001: Message edited by: Lone Star 1 ]

I took a picture copy of JTR Caprice tailhousing to a local tranmission rebuild shop that sell used parts over the counter. The salesman took one look at the picture, walked to the back and brought me a used one. $10.00 please! Bought the tap at an all metric tool supply $38.00 please.

Make sure this is not a car produced by Scarab. I think they have some collectors value. The LT1 was the motor they used. Should be very fast if it is a 70 LT1, and is running good. [ July 05, 2001: Message edited by: Lone Star 1 ]

Hey guys I to had a little problem with the steering shaft interferance. I just unbolted the colum at the firewall, drilled about 1/4" of firewall to the driverside of the collum and slid the collum over about 1/2". I used a 1"x2" board to hold the collum as for over as possable, then drilled new holes in the collum mounting bracket inside and rebolted. This gave me an extra 3/8" to 1/2" clearence between the exhaust manifold and steering shaft. Don't know if any has tried this but it works great.

This is indeed 4" dust collecting tubbing. I found mine at Lowes a big do it yourself store in Texas.

The block is allready pretty smokey. I don't why but my car doesn't leave black stripes. It makes the tire screaching sounds but leaves no stripes. This car has stock suspension, it squats hard and just goes. When it hits 2nd the noise starts again for about 20 to 25 feet. Sometimes it changes lanes, and then 3rd gear hits hard and a little more screaching. By this time its time to find the brakes because your doing something against the law! My car has the R200 3.36 LSD. which makes crusing nice.