Lone Star 1

High on the drivers side is where I mounted the alternator. If I remember right the AC compressor I had was to long and hit the drivers side head, unless you moved it out, and then it hit the strutt tower. They make a very short compressor that would mount in the stock location, but I wanted to use what I had. I spent way to much money by that time, and the wife was pulling in the ranes!

James Taylor (I,m a steamroller baby!)

I used the stock 98 LS1 Z28 bottom hose and a Gates 22358 for the top hose. I had to cut off both ends of the top hose to make it fit. The bottom hose hooks to the thermostat housing. Bet it gave you the shivers to here it run!

Phantom call me or come by and see me. I'll show my set up. Had the car dynoed a couple of weeks ago, and had them watch the fuel pressure while car was being run. Made 297 Hp to the wheels and with fuel pressure set at 59 PSI only droped to 57 PSI at max HP, this is through the stock 5/16" fuel line. The tech that I talked to say this was fine. I am not sure if the slight drop was due to fuel line size, or fuel pump capacity. The LS1 I have has a returnless fuel rail. So I installed a fuel pressure regulator with a bypass and installed this back by the stock fuel tank. E-mail me if you have questions.

Cyrus My pass side head is 2 1/8" from the fire wall and in my opinion this is as far back as the motor should be set. I had a lot fo trouble when I wired the motor, when set at this location. I had to unbolt, and slide the motor forward, wire and then push it back in place and adjust the wires to allow it to move back to be mounted. My AC pully sets over the rack with about 3/8" clearence. My motor also is offset to the pass side about 1/2". Everthing you do changes how the motor fits. Rising and lowering the trany tail shaft will change the distance between the pully and the steering rack. The motor will fit, it's just a matter finding the spot.

Yea I paided $750.00 for my 4L60E that had 38000 miles on it.

Fuel pressure for the LS1 is 59 PSI. You'll need high pressure fuel lines.

Hey Phantom, got your Email, but have just been way to busy lately. You'll need that t-56 from a 98 and up F-body, Corvette's use a transaxale. I kelp all my old gages except for the tach.the water temp I install the Datsun sender in the pass side head by drilling and tapping the hole the GM sender is located in on the drivers side. Leave the GM sender your computor needs it. The oil pressure sender I install in that little fitting right above the oil filter. There's a little 3/8" casting that points up that I drilled and taped and screwed the Datsun sender into, and then made a heat shield for. I have the 4L60E tranny and bought the conversion parts from JTR to make the speed-O work. You have to keep the VSS for the computor. When I sat my motor in for the trial fit their seemed to be only one location it would fit, which was all the back and low. I still had to modify the drivers side exhaust manifold, by rotating the flang 30 deg's. Also had to move the steering collum over 3/8" by routing out the hole in the firewall, and redrilling the four bolt holes. These car tend to take flight at about 160 mph. So be careful because with a 20 mph head wind and 140mph speed flight is possible!!! My AC hose's enter the car under the battery holder so their was no issue their.

Hey Mucho Maas I have a 73 240Z with a stock LS1, 300 RWHP running through a 3.36 LSD R200. the car weights 2700 LBs with me in it. I'm using the 4L60E tranny and the car runs 12.38 in the 1/4. These cars are so light it's like having and extra 100 HP over a 3600 LBs car. A lot of guys are using open diff's and for stright line running the IRS will lay down double strips. So go for it you'll Like it.

I love driving around town at the speed limit 1200 to 2000 RPM. I'll see a policman or two taking a peek at the Z, wishing I was speeding or better yet racing, but I'm just crusing along. But don't let some LS1 powered car, or Mustang GT try to make a move on me, or I'll be gone!!! It's nice knowing you about the fastest thing out their. Zero to sixty in 3.8 sec, what a rush! I Don't even bother with lesser cars, unless they are just real persistant about getting waxed. LS1 powered 240Z no need to wait on boost, it's always ready.

Does your 4L60E have the 6 bolt tail piece? If it does and you want to uses the speed-o-cable,and need the VSS then you will have to buy the 6 to 4 bolt adaptor from JTR. You Also need the Caprice tail piece,and other related pieces to modify the VSS location and gears to drive the cable.

I have been thinking about a Fiat X19, and using a GM front wheel drive HO four and auto trans to replace the midship Fiat motor. I think the X19 only weights 1200 lb's and with say 180 HP, well you get the picture!

I thought it was the guys name that owned the company. You know Mr. Scarab.

Importracer The LS1 and LS6 are the same motor with only better breathing heads and intake manifold. You would be better off buying an LS1 and having the heads ported and buying an LS6 intake manifold, and installing a TR224 cam. This combo makes about 420 RWHP. Want more? Well then theirs a new roots vain type blower out that replaces the intake manifold, and boost to about 6 psi and another 125 RWHP. Good luck keeping all that stuck to the road! The stock LS1 makes about 300 RWHP and that is almost more than I can keep pointed in the right direction. Ck the members rides section to see the LS1 in a 73 240Z. By the way I went 12.38 at Texas Motor plex last friday night, and was having trouble hitting the rev limiter, their was at lest a second during that run that the motor was not making good power. The new Yank convertor is letting the motor rev faster than the computor can shift. I'm going to need the computor reprogramed to lower the shift points. Ck WWW.LS1.COM and WWW.LS1TECH.COM to see what their doing to make the LS1, LS6 go fast.

Hey Scott I used the JTR method for my LS1. I feed the the little box with a low pressure pump and used a high pressure pump to feed the pressure regulator. My pressure has to be set at 59 PSI. the return from the regulator feeds back to the little box, and a return line from the little box feeds back to the Z's gas tank. I used the stock gas line to feed up to the motor, and have no trouble feeding the 300 RWHP. I used and electral explosion proof box for my little tank, it had four 1/2" threaded outlets. the box itself went together in two pieces that threaded together. I used and epoxey sealer on the threads, installed all the fittings and then air tested to 40 psi. It's been working great for a year now. I also installed a fuel filter between the Z's tank and the little tank, low pressure type. Then a high pressure filter just before the motor.

How about Datsun's need V8's too! 240Z's need V8's too! 240's look better with bow ties

Oh yeah well my car looks uh, well my car is uh well i know if i had a head start well maybe not. I bet i get better gas milage! Wow nice!

And probley the last one, but ho what a car. Is that the 500 NMTQ motor?

Well that will do! Say you said you saw a picture of a 240Z with an LS1 in the May (Car Craft) I've looked and can't find it, what page was it on?

Hey Phantom I to love driving my Z. Mine has the LS1 and 4L40E trany and has been very reliable. The LS1 in stock form can be driven as dosile or wild as you want. I just love driving around at the speed limit knowing that at any time I want to I could be at 100MPH in only a few seconds. When i first started driving it with the LS1 every kid in town wanted to race, now they just leave me be. To much fun!

I'll take DavyZ's car but with LS1 motor, with heads and cam making about 425 RWHP. Add the Nosizal EFI Nos kit and squize about 125 shot into that LS1.. And while Iwas at I go ahead and install a C5 rear transaxal, T56, with 411 gears.

Maichor, good to see someone close doing this swap! Which trany are you planning on using? I made my own set back plates and tranny cross member. I don't have any idea if those plates will work are not. Probley not, this motor is a close fit with only a small amount of area where it will work with out alot of modifications. Call or E-mail me and come take a look.

Hey SamH I have the LS1 and 4L60E in my 73 Z. The automatic trany is a little borring at times but I think in the long run it makes for a better car. The automatic is a little easier on the rear end and half shafts. Buy the JTRs Datsun V8 conversion manual, and the Chevrolet TPI and TBI engine swapping manual. Neither of these books deals with the LS1, but are great sources for ideas, and parts sourcing. If you get a motor from one of the F-body cars, their will be several things you will have to Edit from the computor. Example the VATS system, the rear O2 sensors, and others. This is a fuel injected motor and needs a 59 PSI fuel delivery system. This is explaned in the TPI swap manual. I live in Mesquite TX, not to far from Katy maybe 200 miles, feel free to E-mail and set up time to look at the car. It took me about 2 months of every day working to do this swap. It was a first time experence in this sort of thing.

On the home page of this sight their is a gear ratio calculator. With 235/60 /15 tires it looks you would be turning about 1575 RPM at 70 MPH in 6th gear. That would probley get great gas milage.I running the 4L60E that has a .7 fourth gear with that tire and the 3.36 rear and I'm turning about 2100 RPM at 70 MPH. I'm getting about 22-23 MPG in highway driving. My LS1 is making about 300 RWHP.

Try WWW.hpsalvage.com ;)Check out WWWLS1.COM for the skip shift problem.