Lone Star 1

Sopdadope You do know that a LS1 with stage 2 heads and cam will make about 400 to 450 RWHP and be a completey mild to totaly wild drivable power plant. Mine with 300 RWHP and 3.36LSD can't be hammered in corners unless you want to see where you just came from.450 RWHP would brobley but a 240Z in the 10 sec bracket, with no need for all that custom piping. But to each his own, that's what makes this site so much fun.

Ok my motor is setting about 1" futher back. The rider's flang sets about 2" to 2 1/4' above the frame rail. The drivers side exhaust flange sets about 1/2' below the steering shaft and runs almost pallel to the steering shaft. These measurments are to the top of the flanges. I'am not sure but the motor might be a little higher on the riders side but it seems fairley level. When the motor is located back like this the front pulley sets right above the steering rack, with the smaller pully about 3/8" above the rack. The larger pully is just in front of the rack. From the top of the hood latch to the top of the intake runner is about 2 1/8".From the firewall to the back of the riders side fuel rail is 5 1/16". My heater hoses hookup inside th car and I left the hoses long enought to reach the water pump manifold. They run close to interferring but don't. I wish I knew how to post pictures the way you do. Sorry for confussion please reread last post on drivers side and riders side. Lossen the four bolts at the top of the steering collum also. There is rubber gasket at the firewall and you may have to break the seal that rubber has to the firewall. You will also need to remove, are make bigger the hole in the firewall by about 3/8" towards the drivers side. Yes this does but a little more kink in the steering shaft U-joints but I cann't tell any difference in steering. This also seams to make the steering wheel more pallel to the dash. [ October 23, 2001: Message edited by: Lone Star 1 ] [ October 23, 2001: Message edited by: Lone Star 1 ] [ October 23, 2001: Message edited by: Lone Star 1 ]

Hey Jeromio Thoses are the same exhaust manafolds that I have. The riders side manafold (the point of the triangle) extends past the frame rail on my car but the exhaust tube is about 3/8" inside the frame rail. In other words the exhaust flange is about 1" wider than the exhaust hole. The drivers side flange has to be removed and rotated about 30 degs, to make the long side of the triangle paralle to the steering shaft. I also unbolted the steering shaft at the firewall, removed some materal from the firewall and slide the steering shaft over about 3/8". this provided about 3/8" clearence between the shaft and the exhaust flange. I think my motor is offset about 1/2" to 3/4" to the riders side. Yes you have to beat the hake out of the tunnal. From inside the car I can not tell the differance. No problem with hood clearence. [ October 21, 2001: Message edited by: Lone Star 1 ] [ October 23, 2001: Message edited by: Lone Star 1 ]

Try a serch using my member number.

The 2000 GM 4.8 L motor is an LS1 motor. I am not sure if they work older designed motors. But the 2000 4.8 L LS1 motor makes about 270FWHP.They are designed for FI.

[ September 19, 2001: Message edited by: Lone Star 1 ]

I don't think you'll have to mess with the drive shaft. The R200 will mount 1" farther back when you install the R200 mustash bar. The R180 bar mounted to the front side of those flat metal support brackets. The R200 mustach bar mounts on the back side of those metal support brackets. I hope I'm not confusing you. Call if you have any questions. 289-5889 [ September 18, 2001: Message edited by: Lone Star 1 ]

Hey Mike I also had trouble removing the rubber from mine. I cut the top off with a band saw, then wedged a big screwdriver in the crack to enlarge the loop. Then drove the bushing out. I have since heard you can just use a cutting torch to burn the bushing out. Also the mustach bar installs backwards compared to the R 180 bar. Inother words the bar ends up about 1" farther back. The R200 is about 1" longer than the R180. [ September 17, 2001: Message edited by: Lone Star 1 ] [ September 17, 2001: Message edited by: Lone Star 1 ] [ September 17, 2001: Message edited by: Lone Star 1 ]

Hey Pogi The LS6 is the same motor as the LS1 with improved breathing. Howell Engine Development Inc. hedi@eesc.com makes the wiring harness and ECM you'll need. I talked to one member at Texas Moter plex the other night who says he runs in the 9's on the stock IRS. He has a cage built in his now and is turnning 1.5 60ft times but could only turn 1.6 60ft times before the cage. You'll need the 4L60E out of an 98-02 F-body LT1 4L60E will not work. My LS1 is making about 350 FHP and the only chassy mod is the front brace between the strut towers. Try Hpsalvage.com for your 4L60E [ September 14, 2001: Message edited by: Lone Star 1 ]

Hey Jeromio I think this is a great idea. I didn't have all those accessory when I started my install, and didn't realize how limiting those Datsun motor towers were going to be. Maybe even a piece of square tubing, or round pipe running all the way through the cross member and welded, then turn up directly under the LS1 motor mount. That's the type of thinking (outside the box) that it takes to do this kind of thing. [ September 04, 2001: Message edited by: Lone Star 1 ] [ September 04, 2001: Message edited by: Lone Star 1 ] [ September 04, 2001: Message edited by: Lone Star 1 ]

Hey Justin The console I used was out of a 97 F-body, had to enlarge the shifter hole to mount the shifter. Then I cut the front end of the 97 console off and the rear end of the 73 console off to mate the two consoles. Using the F-body console takes care of several problems. First the F-body shifter has the park, neutral, reverse switch built into it. You also have the reverse, park lockout built in. Also you can use the can't shift unless the brake is applied safty feature, that is also is built in. I payed $100 for mine. I used the JTR TPI book method to make my fuel delivery system. About a 2 cup fuel tank supplied by a 4 psi pump. Then a high pressure pump that feeds a pressure regulator that sends fuel to the motor at 58 psi and returns excess fuel to the small gas tank, there is also a return line from the small tank to the cars tank. The reason for all of this is because as the cars tank gets low on fuel, and you make turns there is enought gas in the small tank to feed the motor where as if you did not have this small tank your high pressure pump would just suck air and the motor would instanly die. All explained in the JTR TPI book. I made the AC mount in my car and mounted the AC compressor in a reversed fashion with the back of the compressor facing the front of the car. Then I ground down the middle section of the twin V belt pully on the AC compressor so that the surpentin belt would ride between the two remaining outside V belt rails. In order to make the compressor run the right direction I installed the compressor on the outside of the surpentin belt, and made a 180 deg lap around the compressor pully. I used the raditor simular to the JTR recomend except mine is all brass and cost $75. IT was a little wider and I had to cut 1/2" out of the rider side frame rail and weld a 3" x 1/2" u channel to make room for the radior. I used the steel drive shaft, its cheaper and smaller diameter making it less likly to hit things like E-brake parts. The motor mounts are different from the JTR LT1 mounts. All I did was support the motor where I wanted it, took measurments, and made mounts to fit. [ August 20, 2001: Message edited by: Lone Star 1 ] -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Posts: 70 | From: Mesquite,Texas,USA | Registered: Mar 2001 | IP: Logged

Jeromio on this fourm just picked up an LS1 4L60 E for $2000. I have this combo in my 73 Z. You want have time to get bored when driving this car. 12.65 ET 110 MPH bone stock. [ August 27, 2001: Message edited by: Lone Star 1 ]

Only body mod made so far is a home made strut tower brace in front, and the R200 LSD 3.36 diff. Find several long treads in this forum in the past few days. Do an LS1 search and read carfully. I'm getting tired of typing and spelling. [ August 24, 2001: Message edited by: Lone Star 1 ]

Thanks for the input guys, I have no turbo experance. Just a wild thought, hopeing to make 50 are so HP without modifing exhaust manifoldes are messing with the compression.

You can also buy the LS1 street version 1 computor from Scoggin Dickey for about $550 this will eleminate VAT problem and the secondary o2 problem. There is also an ASA Holden computor avilable for the same money but no one seems to know if it will work with a stock LS1. or what the HP benifits would be. A company called Howell makes the wiring hornace that is suppiled with the GM crate motor. Their phone no. is 810-765-5100. If you buy this hornace be careful as GM has sent notice that the 02 sensors are miswired. Right hand sensor is controling left bank and visversa. It took three days to figure that one out. Motor would run full rich on one side and full lean on the other. I bought the GM F-body manualls and ck the wiring, made the swap at the computor end and all was well.

You want need the spacers and pulleies on the LS1 are small in back and a little larger in the front the motor needs to set with the smaller part of the pulley just over the top of the steering rack. This gives you about 3/8" clearence between the pulley and the steering rack. The motor sets almost 2 1/4" below the hood bracket and no modification is needed to the hood bracket. When I first set the motor in place I thought oh no it's not going to fit, but after rotating the exhaust flange it fit fine. Also I removed the four bolts holding the steering colum to the firewall and enlarged the hole about 1/4" towards the drivers side and slide the steering colum over about 3/8". Then drilled new holes in the steering colum plate and remounted using the firewall's threaded holes. This gives you an extra 1/4" clearence at the exhaust flange. This mod can help all on this forum who are having clearence problems between the exhaust manafold and steering colum.

Read the (LS1: Auto to manual question) a few treads back on this same forum.

Hey guys I had a wild thought going on for quite some time now, and thought I would express it here and see what everone thinks. The exhaust manafolds on my LS1 have 1/2" pipes that turn up and have caped flanges. These were supposed to have air lines hook to them from an air pump to help with emission controls. Could I pipe this exhaust to a small turbo that would make about 2 PSI boost at WOT. I could adjust the exhaust flow throught the turbo by adjusting the back presure in the regular exhaust system. Would this be posible and would 2PSI boost be to much for a motor with 10.2 to 1 compression ratio? What kind of HP would this add to a 300 HP motor? Well I told you it was a wild thought.

Thats correct on the exhaust flange its a triangle and has to be rotated so that the flat part is parallel to the steering shaft, and not the point extending into the steering shaft. The motor mounts on the LS1 are located futher back on the motor. The mounting plate I made was out of 2"x 1/4" mild steel, and extended back from the original Datsun motor mount brackets about 8 & 1/4" rearward. then two 2" x 1/4" plates run perpendecular up to the LS1 motor mount. these plates are about 3" to 3 1/2" apart just make it a tight fit and run the mounting bolt throught the mounting plates and motor mount. the weight of the motor being candleivored out some 8" is two much for the Datsun motor brackets so I made and welded a piece that returns to the Datsun frame just over the Datsun torsion bar bracket (not sure if that what it's called) and used a 3/8" bolt and nut to mount it back to the frame. This mounts the 8" plate front and aft and is very solid. The fuel delevery system is very important be sure and get the JTR TPI book and understand what needs to be done here. Otherwise ever time your low on fuel and make a turn your motor is going to die. There is no gas bowl on a FI car and once you lose fuel pressure the motor dies (Not Good). Also the LS1's uses a differant trany than LT1's so if you do go T56 get one from a 98 or newer F-body. [ August 21, 2001: Message edited by: Lone Star 1 ]

The LS1 is nothing like the LT1 so JTR mounts will not work unless they have designed some for the LS1. I sold the only pics I had of mine while they were off the car to JTR. Also the drivers side exhaust flange will need to be rotated about 30 degs so that it will lay parallel to the steering shaft. I belive a company call Howle Ind. makes the wireing harness for the LS1 crate motor, I'll check my notes and see if I can find that phone number. If you use the stock harness and computor you will have several problems that will have to be worked out one being the anti theft controlls. You will also need to buy the JTR TPI book to work out the fuel delivery system. Great price fot the complete car. Dealers get $700 for the leather seats along.HO2 senors are $50 each MAF $150 IAT $10 Alternator $200 Starter $250 and on and on! LS1 $3000. to $4000 4L60 E $750 drive shaft Alu $200 and on and on!

The console I used was out of a 97 F-body, had to enlarge the shifter hole to mount the shifter. Then I cut the front end of the 97 console off and the rear end of the 73 console off to mate the two consoles. Using the F-body console takes care of several problems. First the F-body shifter has the park, neutral, reverse switch built into it. You also have the reverse, park lockout built in. Also you can use the can't shift unless the brake is applied safty feature, that is also is built in. I payed $100 for mine. I used the JTR TPI book method to make my fuel delivery system. About a 2 cup fuel tank supplied by a 4 psi pump. Then a high pressure pump that feeds a pressure regulator that sends fuel to the motor at 58 psi and returns excess fuel to the small gas tank, there is also a return line from the small tank to the cars tank. The reason for all of this is because as the cars tank gets low on fuel, and you make turns there is enought gas in the small tank to feed the motor where as if you did not have this small tank your high pressure pump would just suck air and the motor would instanly die. All explained in the JTR TPI book. I made the AC mount in my car and mounted the AC compressor in a reversed fashion with the back of the compressor facing the front of the car. Then I ground down the middle section of the twin V belt pully on the AC compressor so that the surpentin belt would ride between the two remaining outside V belt rails. In order to make the compressor run the right direction I installed the compressor on the outside of the surpentin belt, and made a 180 deg lap around the compressor pully. I used the raditor simular to the JTR recomend except mine is all brass and cost $75. IT was a little wider and I had to cut 1/2" out of the rider side frame rail and weld a 3" x 1/2" u channel to make room for the radior. I used the steel drive shaft, its cheaper and smaller diameter making it less likly to hit things like E-brake parts. [ August 20, 2001: Message edited by: Lone Star 1 ]

I payed $750 for my 4L60E. I think if I were wanting the T56 I would look for a car that had the LS1 and T56 in it. [ August 20, 2001: Message edited by: Lone Star 1 ]

Hey Jeromio When you buy the GM LS1 crate motor the instructions say that the computor is set up for the 4L60 E but that you can use the T56 but that you might see some trouble codes set. However this would not effect they way the motor ran.

I'm going to to say 331 just in case.

Hey David 280Z I see you are in Dallas, I'm in Mesquite and have the LS1 in my 73 Z. Feel free to E-mail me if I can answer any question you might have. [ August 14, 2001: Message edited by: Lone Star 1 ]