Lone Star 1

Well I have the LS1 in my 73Z and I read a post the other day at LS1.com of someone installing a single turbo under the passenger seat of the F-body, which got me to thinking about just how far back a turbo could be mounted. From what I've been reading, at about 8 psi the stock LS1's are making 500 +RWHP and 600 RWT. If the turbo could be mounted at the rear and still be capable of producing 8 PSI to the motor, well it would seem like a simple place to locate the turbo. I'm just kinda thinking out loud.

How for back away from the motor can a turbo be placed? Could a turbo be placed back where the muffler on a Z goes? I realize this would reguire some searous piping back to the motor, but wouldn't this also act like a intercooler?

ONLY 180MPH !!!! Hmmm I must be realy old.

I wanta see the machine they turned that crank on.

Took the car to 145MPH, it still felt stable and was climing fast. Not sure how accurate the speed-o is, but at the drag strip it says 116MPH and the time slip say 113MPH. Stock LS1, 4L60E, and 3.36 LSD R200 Diff. Me and the car or both to old to find out what the top speed is!

Those of us who like to go fast put as much tire under the car as will fit. A daily driver does't need huge tires, and even with a V8 the car only weights around 2700 LB's. If you will use stock size tires she will be much happier with the way the steering feels. I think the 200r4 will work fine with a mild 350. But make no mistake, that car will still be very fast. If she likes the Z she'll love a v8 Z!

On the LS1 right above the oil filter, at lest on my GM crate motor , theirs a small fitting that is bolted the motor with two 10 mm bolts. this fitting is angled up and has no apparent use. I removed this fitting and drilled a 1/4" hole through the cast boar. Then taped the boar with the right tap to fit the Datsun oil presure sender. I installed a 90 degree brass fitting, and then the Datsun sender angled towards the back. This provides the sender with the motor oil pressure. To use the Datsun temp sender I carefully drilled and taped the riders side head in the same location as the GM temp sensor is on the drivers side head. The GM sensor is located at the front of the drivers side, the Datsun sender I installed at the rear of the riders side head. I removed the plug, drilled into ,but not through. This is important because the Datsun sender needs a lip inside to to hold the sender in place. Then taped to fit the datsun sender. All of this tap size information is in the JTR's book. It might be wise to just make a fitting that screws into the GM tapping and then has the right threads for the Datsun sender, But if you decided to do like I did be carfull to not drill to deep. This might also be problem later when you decide that 320 RWHP is not enought and want to do a heads and cam, because most of the CNC head porttors just want your cores, but might not want yours with this odd size tap. I bought the JTR's Fuel Injection book and made my fuel system as per their book, with a small ( maybe a cup of gas ) fuel tank. Used a low pressure fuel pump to feed this tank. From their I used a inline high pressure (107 PSI) to feed a pressure regulator set at 59PSI. From the regulator the excess gas is pumped back into the small tank, and the small tank has a free flow back to the Datsun tank. The corrected (59PSI) gas is feed through a filter and to the fuel rails on the LS1. I built all of this up on a metal rack and mounted it a the stock electric fuel pump location. For me this one project was the hardest problem to overcome. I have been driving my LS1Z for about a year now with no fuel problems. I used the stock fuel lines. At the dyno i had them ck the fuel pressure at WOT, and it only droped to 57PSI. I'm not sure how much HP that little 5/16" line will support, but it works fine for a stock LS1.

I used an LS1 GM crate motor made it much easer. But Ihad to figure out the motor mounts and such. But the motor your talking about, you could just buy the JTR's kit and bolt it in. Well not quite that easy, but easy enought. BTW in a 240 Z that would be an high 11 sec car.

I had 4 new 205/50/r15 on my z, They fit ok but my speed-O was off. So I bought 205/60/ r15's for the rear. They fit just fine with 0 offset wheels.

I'm using the original u-joint half shafts. Every thing just bolted right in.

Mike my LSD has the non finned cover. I think to use the finned cover you have to build are buy a speical bracket for mounting. I have seen someone on this board that sold them a while back in the for sale section.

I have a 240Z with an LS1 and 4L60E. Didn't seem all that hard to me, but this was my first conversion and have nothing to compair it with. Just took a 5LB stubby sledge and moved the metal to clear the trany. Took about and hour. Worked slow and deliberate, test fitting ever now and then. I had the trany on a tranny dolly, so I could move it in and out. At no time was beer was involved in this process, but then again I not drink.

Try JBAheaders.com

Try JBAheaders.com

Went to a 1/8 mile strip last night, and their was a 73 Z with 406 small block and lots of NO2.Ran a 5.90. But even with wheelie bars the front was a foot off ground.

Phantom Ls1 edit complete, I'm going to Enis tonight and see what she'll do. Hoping for high 11's, we'll see.

As for as I know I was the first LS1 powered 240Z, and still am as for as a completed car goes. Thats just not the point! The point is I felt that this motor and car were made for each other, and it's been a dream of mine to have a V8 powered Z ever since I saw a artical in a magazine about the Scarb back in 77 I think. I owned a 72 new and was beat bad by a 68 Vet. I have been looking for that guy ever since. The LS1 makes great power and is as mild or wild as you want it to be. If done right you will love the way that car drives. Do It!!!

I used the 4l60E on the back of the LS1. The 4l60E is big, but nothing the sledge won't take care of. This was my first coversion and after reading the JTR manual I just thought you were suppose to beat it until it fits. I beat the tunnel, then fitted the tranny, beat, then fit, beat well you get the idea. I really can't tell from the inside, carpet and all covers well. The thing I miss is being able to hold it in a gear. The 4l60E is computor controled and shifts at will, and to soon for my liking. It could probley be LS1 or LT1 edited to suite.

My son is 12 and he lines soccer games. $10 for U10, $12 for U12, and $14 for U14 games. He works 2-3 games a week. Not bad for a 12 year old.

Buy the brake switch for the year car the motor came from. It should have two sets of contacts. One N.O. set for the brake lights and the other set for the convertor. I used a brake switch from a 98 f-Body, the wires were pink and purple for the convertor. Hope this helps.

The TB and MAFS or both 3.5" in dia. I bet 3.5".

I know what your saying, and think that you could make a two or three inch deep by three foot wide scoop that would trap air and funnel it to the motor with some type of filter built in. It could be placed under the raditor and not be very noticable. You would pick up a little hp at speed and in afect create an air damn. Not a bad idea, and keeps the stock look.

On motor your having built what compression ratio are you using?

Doodyhead thats going to be one wild ride. I have a stock LS1 in my 240Z, 300 RWHP that scares me. But then again I'm 51 years old. Theirs a book called "How to race and modify your Datsun" that gives some good insite to stiffing the Z up some. I would think a goood full cage with bracing extending up through the fire wall and down to the main frame rails would go a long way towards these ends, and bracing back to the rear main frame also. I would like to know if the C5 rear transaxle could be fitted to the Z. Leave it wide and use deeper wheels. It would take wide fenders to cover but would make for a nice wide stance.

1998 F-body cars. Ck on LS1.com in their for sell section, or place a WTB add.