VKLR

I learned from RC electric pylon racing how to cool a 4Kw electric motor and not paying a penalty doing so. Use very small inlets and larger outlets. You want to create a vacuum, not force air in there. Forcing air creates lift and drag.

My hood latch is 100% stock, no problems.

I don't think i want to add everything up. The "while i'm at it" list was more than the initial budget.

I'm using the stock wiper motor. One thing the FSM showed different connections at the relay. It also shows wire colors on one drawing and functions on another. It took a little brain power to figure out the correct way to wire everything up.

Heck yea, once i get everything sorted.

The last THREE cars pictured are all outstanding. Tim, great setting for the photos. Glad to see a one owner car after all these years.

I just did my alignment tonight. I need to install my good wheels and tires to see how it handles. Other than the horrendous vibration at idle i really like it. I'm currently running stock boost, actually a tad below stock boost. Good power, i feel at this point it's slightly faster than the L28. During my project i kept flipping back and fourth between "it's going to be worth it" to "why didn't i just rebuild the L28". I still have a few things to do but glad i went with the SR

With the poly bushings i feel like my gauges are going to pop out of the dash. Driving is fine but at idle it vibrates too much.

The valve on my 75 started leaking. I went to the local Z-car grave yard and got a couple of later model blocks without the valve. I guess they were stock there were a few with them on there.

Ok so the wipers WERE a pain in the rear to say the least. I should have taken some notes before i started this project. The FSM has all of the information except good identification of connector end views. It took me a couple of hours of racking my brain but i have full functions again. Interval, low, high and park are all functional. Searching this forum was useless as nobody could ever get full functions and or had to install a Honda wiper motor. One day soon i'll post the needed information to easily wire up the wipers from scratch.

I just got my SR swap done. Trust me you will want to go to the rubber mount instead of the poly.

I agree with the above suggestion.

It runs and drives!! At this point i have only one complaint. The motor mounts are a little stiff, i'm getting just a little too much vibration from the engine. It's fine while driving but at idle i'm afraid the gauges are going to pop out of the dash. Good power and seems to be a little more nimble in the handling department.

If you find a shop you have good communication with and trust keep supporting them. Good shops are hard to find these days. Even the good shops make mistakes sometimes. Having a car with the ride height so far off should have been caught. Sometimes situations beyond the owners control will make him look bad. If they took care of the problem to your satisfaction then that's all they could do. So often in this world people jump to conclusions way too soon and without knowledge of the subject. Here is one example... sorry to slam ya Josh but the truth is the truth... Post #22 " I know exactly what you mean. I paid someone to do some wiring, looked over it and the wiring job was "hillbiilied". I was mad to say the least. Wiring isn't that hard, I was just in a tight spot and didn't want to deal with wiring issues. Needless to say, I went back in and soldered everything and shrink wrapped it." While the wiring job you paid for may have been a mess and done incorrectly, soldering connections in an automobile is incorrect. A good crimp and weather protection is the best connection for an automobile. Here is why: Cars flex and vibrate. Soldiered connections tend to fail in this environment. Most people tend to use too much heat making connections, this weakens the copper causing a point where it will fail. Tear apart any OEM wiring harness 99.9% will have sealed crimp connections.

DP

During my engine swap and while i'm at it list I've dealt with different vendors and suppliers. Most all have been good. One i'll never ever recommend or deal with, one is still out to lunch. Certainly there has been one person that has exceeded my expectations with a quality product delivered on time with truly exceptional service. That person would be Yury Lyalko of wiring Specialties. From what I've seen myself he has the best customer service in the automotive aftermarket segment. His product was spot on and if there ever was a problem he would be there. Special thanks to the following: Mckinney Motorsports Wiring Specialties SpeedHut Millers Powder coating JTR Auto-n-Audio Hybridz PLMS

Stupid simple fix on the no start.... Now i need to finish up a few loose ends. Alignment Install console Finish wiper wiring Check electric fan operation Check- timing,MAF,TPS,verify-calibrate WB gauge. Calibrate fuel gauge install trim panels That's about it

OK so I have an engine,,,Instead of a boat anchor. The engine started up and ran great. I'm talking about "set the wine glass" smooth. I let it get to operating temperature and shut her down. Did a general check over,, everything looks good, no leaks to speak of. Try to re-start.. no luck. Now it wont run,, LOL too late and too many beers to even care. It will run and it dosen't smoke at all. Seems like a good engine.

Speedhut can print anything on the face of the speedometer. Make it look like the old one....

OK so as far as i know he could use the speedo "bullet" part out of a rb20 trans. They have a cable and should fit right in the sr-ka trans. I even think the part out of a zx 5sp would work also. One would have to pull the trans apart and add the drive gear.

http://www.summitracing.com/search/Product-Line/Auto-Meter-Programmable-Electronic-Speedometer-Senders/?keyword=speedometer+electronic&autoview=SKU or go with Speedhut GPS unit

Whacha putting on her???

I just did mine. 5/8" fuel vapor hose from Napa. I also needed to get one 90 degree fitting for the line from "kidney" to tank.

I've been lurking on this thread for a while, great build. I'm afraid i'm going to have the same issue on my car once it's back on the ground. I took off a bunch of weight. Did you start with stock springs on the struts or were they lowering springs, then the need for coil overs?

I dropped off a car there this morning but never made it back this afternoon to pick it up. Nice to talk to you today. I hope all went well.