auxilary

Lochness monster, little green man, and a couple dead hookers sorry

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=6164&item=2478354770&sspagename=ADME%3AB%3AEF%3AUS%3A1

got the parts today. pretty good quality stuff, .065 gauge. -2 feet of 3" OD tubing -3" 90* elbow -2 x 2" 90* elbows -3" to 2" reducer. All 304 SS. Cost me 75 bucks + shipping

the article is real enough. let's see if he passes dna tests.

I knew it. http://news.yahoo.com/news?tmpl=story&u=/040519/234/726q1.html

ok, what is it? I read your post 3 times over, and I'm still confused on what you found. '32 ford coupe?

dinosaur porn

http://www.cockramnissan.co.nz/

by sr20det, i mean 406 block

they're ronal 15x7 w/ 225/50/15 tires, about 1.5-1.7" in front, probably same in the rear.

I think that's Darius's cousin's ls1, purchased from cyrus. I think he goes by khashabi1 here

$1200 more than it should cost

I think you misunderstood me. If you got stock style replacement strut cartidges, you'd have to get NEW strut cartidges, because you'd be making the tube they go into shorter. You could drop shorter struts into the tubes with spacers, but not the other way around. You'll have to get new struts for the cut tubes. Usually vw rabbit rears, if memory serves. Try it out without sectioning first. I run GC coils, and here's how my car looks without sectioning the strut tubes

well, it's too late to cut strut tubes now because you already purchased the shocks to fit stock strut tubes.

I've decided to sell my rotary Z. i don't want to be left out, and I'm going to beat people to the punch by selling my unfinished rolling chassis 240z with all necessary parts for a rotary conversion, including mounts for engine and transmission! Now you won't even have to wait for me to finish the car before you can buy it! :******* smiley:

so, you spent 5 years to build the car right, drove it (up and down the street, then into a camaro, then to/from msa) for 2 months, and now you're selling it? I should kick you in the balls. In fact, I'm gonna do that to 73botiz on sunday since he just sold his sbc Z

I ordered from the ebay shop z-tard linked up above. They had everything I needed (6 pieces) and it cost me 85 shipped, which is a lot cheaper than burnsstainless and spdexhaust.

found it, http://www.spdexhaust.com

John, do they have a website?

Jamie, I wasn't referring to your car. I was talking about 18s on Z cars in general. I've seen my share of ugly setups on Zs.

Jumping back to the original topic: unless properly done, 18" wheels look gaudy on a Z. FWD offset wheels with very little rubber look odd on a Z because it doesn't have the right stance with them. IMO (mine!) the Z looks good with a chunk of rubber and 0 offset wheels. I specifically like BBS Y spoke wheels (LM series) with 0 offset. In 16"-17, those would be perfect for my car in silver or black with silver rim. As it stands right now, I think it has the right stance.

Well, to make a long lasting manifold for teh wankel, I need to use stainless steel (1400*F at exhaust ports) tubing, because regular steel won't last too long. I need about 2 feet of straight stainless 3" OD pipe, a 3" to 2" reducer, 3" 90* bend, and 2 very close/small radius 2" OD 90* bends. I suppose a 3" stainless steel tube is also in order, for the downpipe Any idea what a good/cheap place would be to acquire those? thanks, -alex

thanks for reminding me. I suppose that would be an excuse for a teardown/rebuild with a street port and 3mm units, right? I could also take out the restrictive RE exhaust sleeves, and get a 1.00 exhaust a/r instead of .84 I chose for midrange power

So wait, technically, you were treed, right? Just not at the drag strip!

It's amazing how useful ABS piping is. Hopefully now that my dryspell of not working on the car's over, I'll get some stuff done. That's the mockup, and the only things that would be changed are the pipe thickness to 3", and length shortened by about 2". I left extra space just in case.