auxilary

They look like OZ Fittipaldi knock offs, possibly by American Racing? I had a set in white about 20 years ago that looks very close to that.

This weekend Capt_Furious and I installed NA Miata seats into his early 260z. I know there are other Miata seat posts in this thread, but hey, why not add more of the same Picked up a pair of NA Miata seats with rails for $100. No major tears - just some usual wear on the driver's side bolster, but no holes or major tears. These have speakers in the headrests, so the wires were cut hanging out of the back. They were dirty and got a decent cleaning from a wet-vac (I needed to rug-doctor the carpets at home, so... this worked out). Miata seats rails. The spacing between stock Z rails and stock Miata rails is about 3/4" difference. The guide pins and mount tabs are riveted in, so they had to be drilled out and they pop right off. The mount tabs on the other side were cut off. We used the guide pin hole as the reference point and drilled new holes in the back of each rail. M8x1.25 45mm long bolts were welded in so they wouldn't spin. These were regular hex head bolts and cleared internal rail guts just fine. When we removed the driver's side seat, we found that the mount tabs were cracked/torn. The rear mount plate fully separated at the spot weld and had a huge crack, so I welded in 1/8" plates to fix this. Ugly but functional. Drilled new holes off a cardboard template I made and the seats went in like butter. The seat height is taller than stock and the headrests are lower than Z head rests, despite the seats looking to be of the same height.

William's Autobody does really good work and is expesnive, but their wait list is 1.5-2 years last time I checked and a full repaint/restore starts at 15k.

Maybe this will work? https://www.sikky.com/product/sikky-low-profile-t56-reverse-lamp-sensor/

I am not affiliated with any of these, just thought I would mention where I saw deals pop up: Techno Toy Tuning is running 20% off with coupon code BLACKFRIDAY Silvermine motors dropped prices on some of their parts; notably power steering conversion is at $700 right now vs. $900 regular price www.apexengineered.com is also running 5-10% discount on their parts

Sent you an email

Vintage Air doesn't want you to use fresh air to prevent contamination and corrosion. That being said, you can cut a hole in the vent housing and plumb it for fresh air. Of course this action is not supported by VA

you've got a PM for the steering wheel, emblems, abs coupler. Thanks!

These are supposed to be high quality ZG flares: https://www.rhdjapan.com/marugen-shoukai-zg-type-deluxe-over-fenders-s30-s31.html

That looks great. Those are some really wide 225s to sit like that on an 8" wheel. On a separate note: what muffler is that? I want to do a 2-in 2-out with an X pipe in that configuration

yeah, those are old pictures from 2003. Very few still make 225/50/15 tires. https://www.tirerack.com/tires/TireSearchResults.jsp?zip-code=&width=225/&ratio=50&diameter=15&rearWidth=255/&rearRatio=40&rearDiameter=17

Yokohama ES100 225/50/15 on 15x7

You need sway bars? I am in the bay and i have sway bars. Just gotta check my inventory, what are you looking for?

2 Harbor Freight engine stands at $37 each and some steel from a scrap yard. Total investment (not counting wheels/casters) was probably $100-120 http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/124889-finished-building-a-rotisserie-today/

I used the LS3 C6 corvette oil pan/windage tray/pickup tube. Here's the comparison between C6 and F-body oil pans: Fbody oilpan hangs about 3/4" to 1" below the front cross member. C6 alleviates that issue, but if you need to drop the oil pan, the engine needs to be lifted to clear the crossmember for oil pan removal.

Remember when the 240z was the desirable car that fetched a premium dollar and the 280zx was considered heavy, boxy, and unappealing? here's one for 25k (he'll never get that much): https://sfbay.craigslist.org/scz/cto/6030197210.html turbo ZX auto for 6700: https://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/cto/6033715221.html non turbo 5 speed for 6700: https://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/cto/6020411602.html turbo auto for 12,500: https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/cto/5986469702.html Even a 2+2 is fetching 4k approaching 200k miles: https://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/cto/5991844205.html Stocks dry up, people move onto the next available old nostalgia car. Who buys 40 year old cars and either fully restores them or buys them fully restored? People who wanted one in high school but couldn't have one. Watch: you'll see Integra Type-Rs and S2000s fetch premium value in about 15-20 years.

Here's a much cheaper local unit for $7400 https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/cto/6008257629.html Remember when Zs used to sell for 500-1000 bucks?

These are the counties that require smog for registration/renewal of 1976 and newer vehicles: Alameda Butte Colusa Contra Costa Fresno Glenn Kern Kings Los Angeles Madera Marin Merced Monterey Napa Nevada Orange Sacramento San Benito San Francisco San Joaquin San Luis Obispo San Mateo Santa Barbara Santa Clara Santa Cruz Shasta Solano Stanislaus Sutter Tehama Tulare Ventura Yolo Yuba There are six counties that require smog certifications within certain Zip Codes only. These counties are: El Dorado, Placer, Riverside, San Bernardino, San Diego, and Sonoma. To my knowledge CA does not look at the pre-76 (or any cars?) out of state for that matter when it's being registered. Registering the car's not the problem but smogging it down the road may be https://www.dmv.ca.gov/portal/dmv/?1dmy&urile=wcm:path:/dmv_content_en/dmv/pubs/brochures/fast_facts/ffvr29

Yes I did. I corrected it, thanks. As for actual laws regarding bringing a swapped vehicle into CA from out of state, I just listed what I saw on the DMV site and my derived interpretation. It's kind of a gray area because as far as I can tell, you can bring the car in and register it. Once it's registered in CA it has to follow CA smog laws as applicable. So if it's an FD with an LS swap, it can be registered but then you'll probably run into problems smogging it the following year. Again, based on my understanding. I could be wrong

California requires vehicles 1976 and newer to be smogged. Current CA law states that a vehicle with an engine swap must meet the following criteria: -Engine must be from a USDM vehicle -Must be same year or newer than the chassis -Must retain all emissions equipment that came with donor engine. This includes gas tank/charcoal/evap system, catalytic converters, etc -Must be BAR (bureau of automotive repair) refereed and receive an approval sticker. -If the vehicle is a CA certified vehicle, the engine must also be a CA certified engine (this applies to 50 state models vs. 49 state models) https://www.bar.ca.gov/Industry/Engine_Change_Guidelines.html https://www.arb.ca.gov/msprog/aftermkt/replace.htm That being said, the loophole for S30 cars 1975 and older is that smog check is not required and therefore engine swap goes unnoticed. With an FD/LS swap it would have to be refereed and smogged, even if out of state. The work around (not sure if this is still valid) is to basically keep your car registered in another state and keep that state's plates. This can get trickier down the road as you become a CA resident.

Np, glad to help! Hopefully it's correctly aligned... or at least within the ballpark

So hey... can I buy your old aluminum line? I meant to text you and ask if you still needed help dropping the engine in and pounding out the trans tunnel. Let me know if/when you do.

Myself and JoeK have done the camaro tank swap (but not hooked up yet). Here's my thread on mount fabrication: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/125865-borrowed-joeks-idea-and-fabbed-camaro-tank-mounts/ The camaro tank must be flipped 180 degrees to work with the Z filler neck. I am planning on keeping the canister but not hooking up the purge solenoid. The tank filler has a 1 way check valve, so that can serve as air inlet through a vented gas cap. I need to do a little bit of research on fuel venting to confirm, but it should be going to the charcoal canister. The fuel feed/return will T and loop back into the tank, like this: Brief explanation of LS1 fuel lines: The fuel pump is internally regulated, so you only need to put a regular camaro or generic AN filter between the pump and fuel rails: no need for the C5 regulated filter swap. As mentioned before, fuel sender must either be modified or be somewhat inaccurate. Typical GM sender is 0 ohm empty, 90 ohm full. The LS1 tank sender reads something like 30 ohm empty 250 ohm full. Autometer (and similar) programmable gauges are 240 empty and 33 full. You can do the following: Adapt an standard 0-90 sender to the fuel pump: http://www.thirdgen.org/forums/ltx-lsx/373779-how-modify-ls1-fuel.html Swap out the gauge sweeper: Autometer will swap in a 240e-33f mechanism into a gauge for $25. They can also flip it so it'll be backwards like the LS1, but it won't be completely accurate: but close enough. Modify the gauge itself with resistors to match the readings. I'm going with the autometer swap since I have an all autometer array.

I'd prefer stock wheel if you've gone one. Do you have a hub to go with the grant or stock wheels? Let me double check and get back to you!

Would like it to be in decent shape. Let me know what you've got and what you want for it. Short version: I need a cheap functional steering wheel to replace and get back my original 240z steering wheel from another car