mikeith

laying down a few coats of por15 before the install would take car of the moister issue. as far as the weight thing goes. if its a street car than weight isn't THAT much of an issue and even that much dynomat. to me the quiter ride would be worth it. i plan on doing the same to mine next summer. hey jr did you do the roof aswell?

where can i find an early 240z front bumper from the 70-72 i think. i cant find one for crap and when i do find one someone is asking a fortune for it. mine is a 73 and it looks similar but just not as clean as the earlier ones! i'm willing to trade both my front and rear bumpers and throw a little extra $$ if i can find a good one

no rattlecan... its john deer blitz black. sprayed on like any other paintjob. its great stuff. doesnt chalk up like primer or other matte colors. they sell it in a rattlecan but like any other rattlecan job on a car it would be blotchy. spraying from a gun makes anything lay out nicer though

got her out today to run some errands and decided to take a few pictures

i like that! last time i looked at vintage air they only had the old looking one... may just go that route.

i have a partial sponcership from iforged and i'm thinking i'm going to go with a 18x9 with a 255/35 on front and a 18x11 w/ a 295/30 on back and the wide zg flares. i've been searching for a couple hours on here and everywhere else and not having much luck... does ANYONE know of a car running this or a similar setup? so i can get some visual ideas from.... the closest i've come is finding the all white one but i cant find exact wheel tire specs (other than i know its not as wide as im wanting to go simply by looking at the width)

i though about vintage air but i want a more modern simple look w/ the hvac controls... kinda like this

haha can you say bodydrop!!! although it would take a RICOCKULIOUS amount of fabwork on a s30! could be done though edit: you could also do an airride setup using art air struts but then again it wouldnt be drivable that low

everyone knows the heater/ac in the s30's is far from great! has anyone ever used a complete system from a newer model car and retro fitted it into an s30. and by complete i'm talking everything from plumbing, to fans and the hvac controls themselves. i was thinking about trying one from more modern car in a similar size but i dont want to waste alot of money on something that wont work. not looking for anything fancy as far as the hvac controls go but something from late 90's early 2000's w/ to have defrost, vent, floor, vent+floor, and defrost+floor... any ideas? i was thinking maybe a miata or something

ok the other night i was driving around in my 73 and someone pointed out that my running/taillights werent working, but headlights, brakelights, and turn signals were.... i figure not big deal i'll mess with it later. well i pull out and realise my brights were on and pull the switch for the lever for the high/lows and i hear a pop. then realise i have no headlights.... i get parked and check fuses... they're good so i reach under the console and squeeze each of the terminals and then the gauge and running lights come on but still no headlights. i take the back roads home and once i get home i take the column cover off and then ALL lights go out except blinkers and brake lights (which is normal) upon looking over everything i notice that the thick gauged white wire w/ the red line on the headlight switch had apperently melted the soldering and popped loose(i came to this conclucsion by touching it back to where it was supposed to be soldered and it immediately got really hot then stopped all of a sudden as if it shorted out) my first question is if that thick gauged white/red wire is supposed to be spliced into the main dash harness directly(because it was) and there is a thick gauged red one that is done the same way. ignore the last sentence in the picture... its the wire on the right not the left(right behind the one that melted loose) also the 9 pin plug that does actually plug the headlight switch to the main wiring harness melted the corner when it shorted out (the green wire w/ white line) does this sound like it is the switch itself that is bad or the dash harness itself? how SPECIFICALLY do i tell if it is the dash harness... once i unplugged the switch everything was ok but if i plug it in the green/white wire gets hot. i dont want to plug in a new headlight switch if its going to immediately short out Modified by mikeith at 6:14 PM 6/8/2009

my headlight switch shorted out last night and shorted out my dash harness with it.

f parts on ebay is a good source... they'll range from 6000-8000 for a complete takeout. i'm looking for one myself. every now and then one will pop up for 5500 or so if you look hard enough.... i'm looking for one w/ damaged heads or intake that i can get cheap since i'm using l92 heads and a fast 92 intake/tb

id like to know aswell

here it is... http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=101301 a little searching goes a long way

there is also a fix that has something to do with the striker and grinding something on the latch or something.

http://www.wilwood.com/Products/005-PedalAssemblies/index.asp

no need anymore.... i ended up getting to buy the one above ! ! !

it will be here friday or saturday.... sold the bike yesterday too BTW

nevermind, bought a z...now just need to sell the bike. $4500 takes it

sand it all and use por15 imo

im interested in this aswell. i plan on building a turbo ls3 next summer but i just bought a 73 240 with a l28 that was built by john williams in atlanda georgia just a few years ago. i would like to convert it to an l28et to get me by until then but since i have a fresh bottom end i dont want to waste it.

looking here at your picture you can see w/ a little tubbing and bracketing it should be able to move at least 2" over w/o having to cut into framerails which is what i would like to keep from doing. but i can see here how tight it is w/ your 275's

the car has tokico illuminas and i could get a stiffer rear spring, i will weld in supports to re-inforce the hub, the car will be 70% street 20% drag(just for fun against friends) and 10% roadrace(would be alot more but the closest track is 5 hrs away. coil overs are a plan for sure but flares are out of the question. i thought about that but i figured that would harm the handling alot more than my original idea.... especially since these cars are so narrow as it is sorry i didnt mention tubbing but i was 99% sure i'll have to to get where i want which isnt a problem. my fenders are already rolled as much as they can be. the difference from a 275 and a 315 is only 2" at most so i didnt think it would be THAT hard to accomplish... but then again this is my first z and i'm still new to it all

like everyone else out there i'm in the search for more traction. i know that width isnt everything when it comes to traction but it sure is alot. first and formost zg or other fender flares are out of the question because i simply dont like they way they look and i dont want it to LOOK any more agressive than they already do ... but back on track i have been thinking about moving the rear struts in about three inches which theoretically would allow about 76 more mm in tire width. i dont know a ton about suspension but in MY thinking and from doing 4 link suspension on classics, trucks etc(mostly air ride applications) i figured that as long as i keep the struts at the same angle it should have little to no effect on the handling of the car correct. the ultimate goal is to fit a 315/35-17 or something similar in width with preferably a lower profile. my thinking is to simply take a couple extra sets of rear hubs, cut off the lower strut mounts and weld them next to were the originals are like shown in the picture below... thn smply add some supports. for the top mounts just cut them out, move em in to match original strut angle and add new sheetmetal to fill the gap and re-inforce. here's a quick sketch on ms paint to kinda show what i'm talking about. i'm up for any helpful advice on why it is or isn't a good idea or why it will or wont work.

If u don't buy it pm me his info and I will... Seriously