HLS30-08077

I was working on them when my computer lost the program I was using to convert them.. I just haven't had time to find another program that I'm comfortable with. Dave.

Pics are up, I hit the darn button before the upload window was up. sorry. Let me know what ya think. It's a day and night difference, I'm definately going to put 2 tubes in the back or one in the back and one where the regular dome light is. Dave

Interior lighting upgrade for All Z's Being winter, it's dark sooner and longer than normal. So with that in mind, I really notice how dark the interior is when I drop my keys on the mat in front me. After digging for a minute and finally having to get out of the car and reach down to get the keys, I figure it's time for an upgrade. Some of you will like it and some of you won't. But the plain and simple truth is "The dome lights in these cars SUCK azz" So I got online and started looking for your basic 12 volt interior lights. this turned out to be Mission Impossible. So I used Goooogle to look deeper and found this site.... Directron.com and this link will take you directly to the lights in question. It's a Computer supply site and I found 12" (12 Volt DC) Cold Cathode Tube lights. Used to light up the inside of a computer case with a clear plastic side panel. The Cold Cathode tube only require 5.0ma which is practically nothing. The picture below will show before and after as well as cutting off the "T" plugs from the inverter that normally plug into the inside of the computer. They put off a Beautiful white light when placed under the dash. I mounted the first tube at the bootom back corner of the glove box, using the supplied Velcro that came with it. It sits just on the back corner but not on the down facing panel of the glove box. Out of site but able to light everything up. The blue inverter box sits in the dash area just above the radio. The wires from the inverter to the tubes are only about 12" each so the box has to be placed in the middle of the dash. **DO NOT CUT THE WHITE WIRES THAT GO TO THE TUBES** THEY ARE SPECIALTY HI VOLTAGE WIRES!! The drivers side was different. The tube sits on the upper side of the steering columnm, with the wired end touching the mid-section of the defrost tube and the other end just barely touching the curved dash support on the left of the steering column. So I Velcro'd the wired end to the plastic defrost tube and doubled up the Velcro on the other end to reach the dash support better. Best $15 I ever spent on lighting up a very dark interior. They sit low enough to even light the dark seats, just enough to make sure I don't end up with seat belt up my butt, AGAIN!! Here's the pics.. Dave. If you have any other lighting upgrades, please post them here, as the title of this forum should pop up when ever someone is looking for lighting options.

I totally agree, but.... would'nt scanning it at the correct workable angle save some time? Especially for people like me who'd like to help but have no Adobe Illustrater and a computer that likes to tell me "out of Memory" Here's what I got so far. Just need a Laser Printer, that'll handle the non-reflective adhesive backed Vinyl I just ordered. It's got a thick backing paper. before and after or black and white

Well it's a start. But I gotta ask if there is a possibility for you to rescan the gauges again but this time.... try it at 1200 DPI. clean the glass on the scanner. align them as well as possible. at 90 degrees or better yet, imagine a grid on the scanner, align them so they are as close as possible to even. straight up and down and NOT crooked or angled. I did the Volt meter last night but I can't straighten it out to an even 180 degrees because pivoting the image causes pixels to kick out of place. I'd love to take on this project, as I've done my own Speedometer because MSA did'nt have one available. I did a write up on it at Classiczcars.com but the site is down at the moment, so I can't show you a link. Also, I don't know Metric. I can't read the metrics on most of the scans, If some one could tell me what the oil pressure is measured in (Kg/cm1)? and what the Temp is measured in? 1g? Here's what I did for my speedo. and a pic of the Volt meter (still off by 2 degrees and I can't straighen it properly.

Did I miss anything? I start writing and forget stuff. If you can vision the process in your mind, and see yourself doing it correctly, I've done it right. If I missed anything, please let me know. What's really funny is the only reason I even looked at this thread to begin with was for someone else. He mentioned wanting it done to his car, so I said I'd research it for him and get back with him. And after two weeks. It seems that not only have I researched it, I've come up with a solution for the previous problem of the upgrade, AND dicovered that my solution is also the answer to the delayed wiper problem. Cause every delay unit says to cut a wire but my relay stops that from being a needed process. Glad to help, Now If I can just find a way to make money on these solutions, I'd be doing pretty good. Dave.

As in post 171, follow the link to classicZcars.com. I did a full write up explaining the whole proccess. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=28989 but a recap goes like this. remove the wiper arms by removing the brass nut from each arm and wiggling each arm loose remove the 4 screws that hold the colw to the car, push the cowl towards the windshield as you lift it up. pushing towards the windshield will help get it past the 2 rubber hood stops and the inspection lids without damage. remove the 4 mounting screws that hold the wiper mounting plate to the car. unplug the wiper motor from the harness on the firewall and push the plug and the rubber boot thru the firewall towards the wiper motor. lift on the upper part of the wiper plate to expose the 12mm nut that holds the wiper assembly arm onto the wiper motor shaft. loosen and remove the nut and the lock washer. The arm will not just pop off, you gotta work it off, a flat head screw driver helps, along with lowering the plate back towards the window to ease the tension off the arm. once it is off, remove the wiper motor plate and motor from the car. Remove the are 3 screws holding the motor to the plate. they may try to strip on ya but vice-grips will help remove them. once the motor is removed from the plate, you can use the motor or the plate to help find the correct Honda motor at the Junk yard or pull-a-part. The 91' Honda Civic has the correct motor but here's a few shots to help get the correct motor. The motor on the right is the Honda motor. When you get the motor home, hold them side by side. the slots on the shaft should be aimed the same way. ( / ) ( / ) When you find the correct motor at the yard, save the 3 bolts and the washer and nut from the motors shaft. drill the mounting holes in the Datsun plate like this. then cut the notch out of the plate to accept the lip of the Honda motor. Then use the honda bolts to mount the motor to the plate. the top should look like this.. Follow all the wiring diagrams previously posted and drawn here and on classiczcars. wire up the relay. and run the motor and let it park. This should match up the wiper arm and the motor shaft so they slide together when you re-instal the plate back into the car. snug the nut on "Quickly" cause if you go slowly, it'll just turn the wiper arm and shaft. Test it out after bolting the plate to the car. Let the motor park again by shutting off the wiper switch. Re-instal the cowl. attach the wiper arms to the wiper shafts and test the wipers again. Thats it. If you instal a delay unit for intermittent wipers, follow the instructions above this post. And the wiper delay is as easy as ground the delay unit, run the (+) wire of the delay unit to a dash or console mounted switch, then from the switch to the ACC wire on the ignition (Blue/red). Then find the COMMON wire of the delay unit and tap the blue/white wire on the harness side of the combo switch (before the connector of the combo switch (headlight and wiper switch) Set the wiper delay to about (5) and turn it on. tuck the delay unit under the dash somewhere, turn the key to ACC, turn on the switch you installed and wait a few seconds to see if it does a single wipe and parks. Dave.

And now an EVEN BETTER *UPDATE* than the last one... Good News!! It turns out that when you instal the honda wiper motor and MY relay set-up to allow the Motor to "Park", the delay unit only needs to put out a 1 second ground to the blue/white wire. Delay units already put out a timed 1 second pulse, The instructions call for you to "CUT the Low speed wire, put the COM wire towards the motor and the N/C wire to the switch side of the cut wire" BUT...... it turns out that the way I designed the relay set-up will allow a simple 1 second grounding of the Park wire to give an intermittent wipe. Vholaa, intermittent wipers, using an aftermarket wiper delay unit. and you DON'T HAVE TO CUT A THING!!! Most or Every delay unit that I've come across is huge or at the very least, a severely ugly hunk of plastic to try and find a place for in the Z, that allows access for the driver to operate the delay unit. And now the GOOD NEWS!.... Good news is that the delay unit can be turned on and set for a specific timing (2 to 20 wipes per minute) then tucked under the dash, out of site. THEN run the power wire of the delay unit thru a small 12 volt switch and back to the ACC. wire on the ignition, and install the small switch within reach of the driver. When you flip the switch on, there may be a slight delay of up to 5 seconds but it'll do 1 wipe and set back to park, then wipe according to your setting of the delay switch.. Pretty damn cool. HUH? Just remember to shut the switch off before normal operation of the wipers (Low or Hi) Now tell me ya luv me, Dave.

My Pleasure Joel. Did that video work? I AM SOOOOOO putting this on my Z, when I get the time to do it right. And the HELLA diagram is made specifically for YOUR Z, even though others can use it for the HELLA delay switch in their car with normal wiper switches. Dave.

Even better update..... So I had some time and found my wiper delay unit from years ago, that never got installed. Now that I figured out the whole relay for the park circuit thing, I attempted to install the Delay unit, with success. So here are three wiring diagrams for the HELLA delay unit (HL87200) , AQUUS 9030 delay unit (I think I got it from Schucks Auto Supply), and a universal drawing for other makes of delay units like the MT-115 (maker unknown). I tested the AQUUS on my Z and it worked great. I took it back off till I'm ready to actually mount it the way I want it. I just disconnected the plug on the firewall and ran jumpers to figure it all out. Worked great. On the instructions for your particular delay unit, it should show you which wires are (COM) (N/O) and (N/C). These wires are pointed out on the Universal drawing. (COM) to the motor, (N/C) to the switch, and (N/O) to the Park wire (Blue/white wire) If that not park it correctly, use an IN4001 diode from the Blue Datsun wire to the Blue/white "Park" wire, with the stripe on the diode facing the blue (low speed) wire. And cut the (N/O) wire and tape it off. If you have any questions regarding the delay unit into your 240Z with the 91' Honda Civic or 94 Accord wiper motor upgrade with my Park relay, please PM me here or at wolfin32z@yahoo.com You'll notice that the links are thru Classiczcars but I had NO choice, The largest I can straight upload here is only 620 X 280. CZC's is 1 MB. I don't have a site in mind for hosting the larger diagrams but this should work for now. ALL 3 diagrams are for a Push/Pull switch but the colors are the same for the 240Z with OEM wiper switch, just cut the blue and diode or tap the blue white. These instructions were originally for J.Soileau 74RB26zcar. Hense the 3 position switch. This link is for the HELLA Delay unit. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=21059&d=1198734895 The AQUUS delay unit from Schucks. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=21057&d=1198730615 The universal diagram, use instructions above this diagram works on the (MT-115) unit that Justn54321 leant me for research. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=21058&d=1198732928 Let me know when you get yours installed and working, and if I had anything to do with it. I need the occasional incouragement. Dave.

Just an update, I compiled all the needed info on one forum over at ClassicZcars.com on the 91' Honda Wiper motor conversion. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=28989

There ya go, Maybe even make a bracket that uses the vent pull mounting screws.. You're welcome, Dave.

I hear ya, the switch is (from the back to the top of the brass) 2 1/4" long and the "Supply" screw sticks out another 3/8" for a total of 2 5/8" before the knob. And the total width is 1 5/8" from left screws to right screws. So check around the dash and center console to see where it'll fit and what works for ya. Dave.

Well you can get to the site now, but it says " Working on some site maintenance... be back shortly. -- Mike " So at least it's a work in progress.

No diodes are required for the headlight sytem. The only real problem I had with my wipers was when it was dry outside and I would accidentally flip the wiper switch, it would drag slowly across the window then stop 1/4 way up the window. Which I'm pretty sure would start to overheat the circuit if I did'nt jump out and help it along till it would park. As for where to mount a wiper switch, I own a 8/70 and the spot above the Hazard switch is empty and will accept the new wiper switch. just drill the 3/8" hole, wire up the switch and install from the back, screw on the Black knob (Blends with dash) and turn them on. Yes, it's that easy. Thanks again for the compliments, that's why I do what I do, Dave.

Thanks man, but the problem is that the HID's come with their own power pack and harness. My upgrade harness would be pointless on a Z with Real HID's. However, if you (whoever) are using an H4 upgrade or even the Stock Halogens, My upgrade harness will give the bulbs true battery voltage via the relays, without cutting into your OEM harness or drilling for mounting, as the harness uses stock factory holes for mounting the relays and the new ground wires. But if you install real HID's, your NOT interested in NOT mollesting the stock wiring anyways. So my plug and play harness is again, pointless. But thanks for the plug. Word of mouth is stillthe best compliment and advertisement. WHat's up with Mike? Classiczcars has been down for days. Dave.

I got the PM but have you read my reply to you just above this one? I tried to explain everything as clear as possible for you and as many electrically challenged as possible. I went to Schucks (Krager / Check ) Auto Parts yesterday and picked up a $6.00 headlight switch for testing purposes. It looks like what you could use if you don't wanna use the stock wiper switch. It's called a fused 3-position push/pull switch (universal Headlight switch) But it's also exactly what you need if you're not using the Datsun wiper switch. Pull out 1 click for slow speed and pull once more for hi speed. Pics below will show wiring and position on the switch.

Great work! Looks clean and everything. But why? What's it for and why would you block off the opening? Kinda lost but interested just the same. Dave.

I also do the LED conversion for the 240Z's and did J. Soileau RB26ZCAR's 260Z LED tail lights. And this is James Z at Canby 07' both are customers of mine. Stock housings for the Original OEM look but when you hit the brakes, Damn!!!

d.a.thomas I got a 73' that looks better than that and works great, I even have the Original Vinyl cover Bag that the motor slides into. no rips, tears or anything, I even have the white plastic buttons that hold the bag shut. That's why the motor looks Prestine. J. Soileau RB26zcar. I posted everything you need for the relay wiring on POST #155 and there is a drawn below that. There are also details on the spindle contacts in the gear box, follow the instructions only if the motor does'nt "PARK". I have a supplier for the Datsun Plugs and terminals and I got the Honda plug from the Junk yard. It kinda fell in my tool bag, on accident...... The black box is from Radio Shack. They call it a project box. The relay and the butt-connectors are all tucked away inside the box for a cleaner, weather resistant look. As for hooking up a 3 way switch. Go to radio shack or some place that has automotive switches, get a switch that has a set-up like this..... OFF--ON--ON make sure it is NOT an ON--OFF--ON. Most auto parts stores have wiper or light switches that are "PULL" switches for the dash. "IN" is off and you pull out to turn on the low speed and pull out again for hi speed. The switch needs a groung wire cause you want it to send a ground thru the wires to the relay in the engine compartment. Find the blue/white.......blue....and blue/yellow wires that normally go to the wiper switch on the steering column. run them to where the switch will be located on the center console or dash. follow the diagram I drew out below. This is very easy to do and if you need help, let me know. I totally understand the Electrically illiterate, I use to be one, believe it or not. Dave. I also JUST did the wiper motor upgrade (took 1/2 hour) and here are two final pics. The second wiper picture shows the plastic cover from the original wiper motor.. So is it a Datsun or Honda wiper motor under there? And here's the new "Installed" video of the new wiper blades on a dry window. easy cheesy.

help with what, The intermittent wipers? I'll start looking into it and go from there. I am so far behind on my orders right now, I gotta get my butt in gear and stop playing with wipers for a few days. But I'll get on it asap. And besides, I can't take paypal anyways, NO bank. Dave.

First picture ain't working. Just FYI. I think you would need a timer or intermitent wiper (TIMER) thingamajig. I would honestly be worried about the little wires on the aftermarket intermittent wiper units. They are small and are usually used in conjuction with a car that has relays for the wiper speeds. But the 240Z's have FULL amperage running thru switch and wires all the way to the wiper motor. So we're talking 5 to 15 amps surges running thru the aftermarket intermittent unit. And possibly having a melt down, and that's the main reason I do what I do, preventing fires and such in the 240Z's. As for an aftermarket wiper control switch for the center console, I'd get a 3 position switch, OFF-LOW-HI (OFF-ON-ON) make sure the blue/white has the same negative signal as the LOW AND HI WIRES AND AT THE SAME TIME. If the blue/white stops giving signal to the relay, it'll kick the motor into "final sweep" and thats's not a good thing when the motor already has a lo or hi signal. Maybe use a diode from the blue wire to the blue/white on the relay. (white stripe on the diode towards the blue/white wire. Dave.

$45 bucks. Just kiddin, but it is a moral delima. sell the idea and give my kids a decent Christmas. Or be the nice that I usually am (Electrical Hero) and share the idea here and also offer a premaid kit that only requires the buyer to purchase the little black box - get it home, connect the wires to the box Via butt connectors with the correct color wire already there. But I will make a diagram and post it here along with a written instruction just in case the picture dissapeer like all the others on this forum. 70' Datsun 240Z ________________ 91' Honda civic wiper motor blue/white------------pin 85 ________ Pin 87A-------blue/white blue------------------pin 87 ________ pin 30---------blue Blue/red--------------pin 85-------pin 85-------green/black Black------------------------to----------------black Blue/yellow------------------to----------------blue/yellow ________________________________________________________ That's it, Use a 30/40 or a 20/30 12 Volt automotive relay. I will offer the upgrade box but keep in mind that the wiper motor must be in operating condition in order for the relay to work, I had to rebend the contacts in the honda's gear area too make sure everything had a Solid contact, in order to carry the negative signal to the blue white wire. The pics below will show the tabs on the lower half of the center spinner, I lifted it a little to make room for the rebending of the metal tab. To check and make sure you bent them correctly, use and ohms meter like this..... on the inside of the gear box, with the top off, The green/black wires both connect to the smaller outer ring (closest to the wires. The Black wire is the bigger outer ring. The blue/white wire is the inner solid ring. First, Clean all the old blackend grease off the 2 rings. Replace the grease with some from the gear box AFTER you've tested as described below. Connect your ohms meter to the blue/white wire and connect the other meter lead to either green/black wire. Slowly turn the center spindle by hand (SLOWLY!!!) and watch for any disconnects as the tab slides acrocc the smaller outer ring. if it stayed at (0) Zero, then you did good. if not, try again but be carefull not to break the tab off or you're screwed. NEXT move the meter to the black wire and do the same for the larger outer ring. Please double check all wires and if some one tries this on an accord motor and it works, PLEASE post your individual results. Dave.

Okee Dokee folks, I bought a 91 civic wiper motor yesterday, tore it apart, wrote down everything I needed to know, put it back together, wired up a relay and Vwohlaaa...... I SOLVED THE PARK PROBLEM.!!! So I put the relay and the wiring into a Radio Shack Hobby Box and called it Mine. Anyone interested? Video of the motor parking after the switch is turned to off, several times.

Hey J. How are those LED tail lights, now that you have an alternator making them brighter? I just realized that it was you, the 260Z LED Taillight guy. Never heard back after you got the car up and running and I finished those tail lights just over a year ago. Dave. Well I'm off to the garage to look at those motors again.