HLS30-08077

Are they refering to the red push button switch on the passenger side fender with all the relays and crap? Thanks for posting this, Dave

Thanks, but that's a 240Z diagram. I'm actually the guy that makes the ZXP 280ZX alternator adaptor plugs that you've probably heard of and is sold at MSA. I need 260Z wiring help. I know 240Z's and that's the problem, I need to learn more 260Z stuff. Thanks anyways Dave

*BUMP* Anyone?? I'd still love to hear a solid answer to this. Thank god I'm only doing body work at the moment. Somebody please do a write-up on the exact wiring for IR alt swap, shunt bypass or fusing, guage swap or wiring..... PLEASE Dave

No problem, but like I said, It just seems more logical to cut the lips for a functioning unit. Have a great week-end, Dave

Nope, cutting is NOT needed or neccesary, but that's kinda the whole idea behind attaching an extension onto your vehicle, to allow wider tires and increase the travel height of said tires..... We here at HybridZ, typically alter and modify our Z's and other cars for Function, not just looks. Not cutting means you're also likely to add a hood scoop that doesn't allow air in or out of the engine bay and is only there for looks. It's my belief that they fenders were not cut in the 70's because the flares were required as a safety factor, eliminating road debris from hitting following cars, because the Z's were typically in the lead most of time anyways.... By the way, these statements are neither fact nor fiction and ONLY my opinion. Therefore, take it as you see fit. FWIW Dave

from the bottoms of each side of the flare, I started my cuts about 4 or 5 inches up. And you can almost see exactly what I'm talking about in the 4th picture (second row, on the right) As for how I mounted them.... I started with placing the flare where it looked best, on the dogleg lip, clamped it, and then brought the other side to the fender lip and then it's all visual from there. I started from the inside and cut up and out at an angle for a smoother look and feel. (Pictured below) 1) How big of tires are you / will you run? 2) How low will the car sit after all is said and done? 3) how much clearance do you want under normal driving conditions? I cut about 2.75" off the highest point, but the flare only sits about 1/2" higher than the original fender lip. I don't suspect that I will ever bottom out or rub, but I'll also have big tires and wheels to fill that area just fine. The inner panel was a little less specific when it came to cutting it. I basically imagined how much the inner metal would come out as I pounded upwards. I think I only cut about 1.5 inches or less from the highest point of the lip, and less as I moved down each side. Repeated pounding will slowly stretch and spread the metal. I used a solid steel slap spoon inside the 2 panels to help flatten the inner steel. Dave

Pop rivets are fine. As a matter of fact, pop rivets are what was originally suggested back in the 70's, when the flares were required for racing in certain types or races.

If you're still curious after 16 pages, you skipped the good parts. Do what ever you're comfy with, butt-weld, overlap, mig, tig, or stick. I butt welded mine, you cut the outer skin first, then cut the inner (wheel well) metal after. Cut the second metal enough to pound it up and outwards to reattach the 2 metals. Z-CARS ARE UNIBODY..... YOU MUST REWELD IT SOLIDLY TO RETAIN THE INTEGRITY OF STRUCTURE!!!! Adding sheet metal may weaken the structure. I slipped a "Slap paddle" in between the 2 metals and pounded the inner metal flatter to allow it to attach better. When I squeezed the 2 together, I also pounded right into them, rounding the edges for a smoother feel and look. . And on the plus side, if the tire hits it, it's rounded and won't cut into the tire. So by my measurements, I removed about 2.75" off the top half and regressively less as I went down the sides. Painting the exposed metal BLACK will reduce what people see after the job is done.

Sorry Dave, I think I beat ya to the punch. He wrote me and I sent him all the 260Z diagrams that you sent me, including the modified ones that I mentioned to you after you sent them to me. So if he does'nt respond to your PM, you'll know why. Thanks again, Dave I.

There are only 2 that I'm aware of. (Nissan and Mallory) and those are complete distributors. There are, however, many upgrades that you can do to your OEM dizzy. Pertronix and and the Crane XR3000 are 2 off the top of my head. That way, you can keep the OEM looking Dizzy but have the upgrade inside. Kinda like a "Sleeper" (Beater on the outside, all performance on the inside) Dave.

You never said whay Car it's going into. But the Mallory Unilte is available from other distributors other than MSA. Jegs and Summit, to name 2. You can also use a 79' 280ZX E12-80 Dizzy. It's and easy swap, add one wire from the "B" connector on the ignition module of the dizzy, to the (+) of the coil. And the "C" goes to the wire that normally goes to your stock dizzy. You can't go wrong with the Unilite, set it and forget it. Works great with an MSD ign. I use one with my MSD 6AL and Promaster coil and it rocks. There's the dual point from Mallory but I can't think of any others, off the top of my head. Good luck. Dave

Yup, the blue wire is for your A/C pump. You'll find the same wire inside, for the AC thermostat connector. Clip it or leave it alone. The wires gonna be there whether your Z came with AC or not. It's a factory harness and if the Dealer installed AC, the wire is already there so they don't have to instal a wire. Dave.

Again, BOLT IT DOWN. Plain and simple. Leave it plugged in and ground (Bolt) the cap side.

OK, it's been almost 2 months, what's the verdict so far?? Please update and advise, Dave 2/74' 260Z

In case some of you haven't figured it out. I am Dave Irwin AKA: ZS-ONDADRAIN. And now you know. And knowings half the battle, Yo Joe. (I miss the old cartoons) Dave.

I've got Eagle Alloy 206's (16x7.5") with Riken Raptor 225/50ZR16's

Derek, I just read all 6 pages of this thread. DO NOT GIVE UP ON THIS!!! Ride him into the ground. You, as well as many of us here and at Classiczcars, work TOO DAMN HARD for what little money we have. If you let him think that he has even an incling of getting away with it, He'll do it again. And most likely to someone who does not have the backing that you have here at Hybrid and everywhere else. Attorney General, Better Business Bureau, Clubs, Ebay, PayPal and many more should have an idea of what you can do with this guy. If his own club, that voted him V.P. wishes to push it under the rug, then the club is just as guilty as he is, hands down. If I act like an ass to my customers, I fully expect MSA, HybridZ and ClassicZcars to bannish me without a second thought. Hell, I'd expect a bloody lip and a few bruises for my actions if I acted like him. If he's such a good Ebayer, He should easily be able to come up with the money to make your situation right. Don't give up, we got yer back, Dave. Zs-ondabrain at Classiczcars.com Motorsport Auto Supplier

Sorry if that sounded rude. I was not in a good mood as UPS has screwed me six ways from sunday and did'nt even bother to use lube. They failed to pick up orders from my supplier, failed to deliver items that were ordered 2 F@#$ing weeks ago and was promised a 3 day delivery..... Needless to say, I have orders that are 90% done, laying around, waiting for parts to show up, just so I can slip on connectors and ship them. AND FEDEX is high on my shitlist as well. My rear struts from MSA sat in the FedEx depot for 12 flippen days, 50 miles from my house, before they were finally delivered. "Your World On Time" my ass. I can't run a business this way, it's not fare to me or my customers to have to explain why the top 2 Parcel Delivery company's are screwing up the orders. Let me know what you find out about the lights after you run the car while testing, Dave.

The cap just bolts to the body using one of the Voltage regulator bolts. It filters noise and Spikes in the system. As for the Alternator wires, just ground the black wire to the bolt with an "E" on it. The white/red goes to the bolt with a "B" on it and the "T" connector just plugs into the alternator. The ZXP is $15 and plugs right into the Voltage Regulator connector you were holding in the picture. Hope that helps, Dave.

Sounds like news to me. Nothing leaves my site without passing a rigorous test. First, is the car running when you test the lights? I ask because your 12 volts at the battery results in about 10 volts or less at the taillights (age and resistance reduce the voltage) Running the car with the alternator backing up the battery wil increase the voltage and the lights will light up like a Christmas Tree. Second, I'm guessing that the lights work fine but the turn signals are not flashing. Is THAT the problem? If so, switch the flasher, under the dash, to a Tridon EP35 or equivolant ELECTRONIC Flasher. LED's don't have the resistance that regular bulbs have. Stock OEM flashers are Thermal units and won't see enough resistance to work, because of the lack of resistance from the LED's. And once again, if the vehicle is not running, they will be very dim. I built them this way to eliminate ANY chance of them being overpowered and blowing up. They'll take up to just over 15 volts. BUT need no less than 12 volts to work properly. Use some test leads on the LED taillights. Ground the terminal with the black wire on it, using your battery up front or a spare. Use another lead from the test battery, touch it to ANY of the other terminals and see what happens. Let me know what you find. But I'm guessing that the LED taillights will work just fine and the problem is in a connector or somewhere else. I Guarantee my work. Ask anyone. Dave. EDIT*** I just read your email to me (First one) and you only mention the Flashers not working. So is it just the turn signals not working or everything, as stated in your first post?

I know it's probably too late but the "Mystery" item bolted to the front strut tower is a very old "Shock Sensor" for an alarm. They only require one wire and the chassis is the ground. The knob on top is the adjuster for sensativity. As for your picture above, just soak the steering knuckle then sandblast it clean and paint before installing a new ball joint. Take a look at mine on my 260Z rebuild currently in progress. You can check out the whole rebuild at http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3195135 don't forget the 5-star vote. I appreciate it. Dave.

But please remember that some of those sidemarkers have 2 small "Drain" holes. you have to look carefully but make sure they are facing downward. If you install them upward, you'll get the "Fish bowl" effect. Dave

Thanks Dave, It will be well used around here (home) I need to hide as much crap as possible in the engine bay and this will help. Dave.