HLS30-08077

If Rubber biscuits are "Bump Stops" then I totally understan. I was told to remove about 1" off the bump stops to assure that they did'nt interfere with day to day operation. I have already removed the Full A/C unit (everything), the flat tops have been swapped for round tops (weigh less) and all the old paint and Bondo have been stripped from the front end. I'm pretty sure I lost at least 100 pounds off the front end. Especially if you consider the loss of all the old undercoating, grease, dirt, rust, and all the other un-needed crap. I'm not stressing out anymore. I just had to be reassured of Eibach spring tension versus stock, the lowering of 1 to 1.5", and the fact that it'll also have 225/50ZR16's which sit a little lower than stock size tires. Thanks agian guys, Dave.

So I installed the spring and strut to the left front strut assembly. Did'nt need my Brand New Spring compressor that I bought just for that moment, everything slid on and I bolted down the top peice and still have 1/2" of slop. I attached a few pics for reference. So I agree with Jon but my final (hopefully) question is am I gonna have to double check the front perches Everytime I lift the front tires off the ground? What a pisser. Hell, I was half tempted to cut the perches and raise them 5/8" just to make myself feel better and not listen to the spring "Clanging" around on the strut tube, and goofing up my nice paint job. Thanks guys, That should do it for now.......... Dave.

Thank you Captain Obvious. I kinda noticed that as well. I just got off the phone with Garrett? at MSA and he says that it is perfectly normal and that they are the correct ones. Unfortunately, I won't know how the car sits until the Whole suspension is done and that may be months from now, Being a (Winter project) and all. Dave

I went there and they don't even list a 240Z, 260Z or even 280Z. I put in "1974" and it list BMW, GMC, Pontiac and a few others but no other imports.

So I just opened the box from MSA and the Eibach pro Rate springs are WAY Shorter than stock. The 260Z springs are 15.5 inches tall (all 4, unmounted) The new Eibachs are..... Fronts.. (189710) (6303.001) is only 10.75" tall ( 4.75" shorter than stock Rears....(189712) (6303.002) is only 12.625" Tall ( 2-7/8" shorter than stock) Is this correct? Are the fronts springs supposed to be almost 5" shorter than stock? And if they are, how does this only drop the car 1" to 1.5" ????????? I'm don't want to install them until I hear from someone who has dealt with this before and can reassure that I'm not crazy. Please help before I get overambitious and instal them just to see. Dave.

So nobody has ever dealt with this type of swap or issue? I just want to know what the difference would be before I order parts or do the swap and find out the hard way. Dave.

So as most of you know, I'm rebuilding the 260Z this winter but I think I ran into a snag. As the picture below shows, the 240Z front left spindle/strut assemble is 3/16" shorter than the 260Z assembly (2/74) And the 260Z's spring perch is 1" lower than the 240Z's. So my question is........ If I use the 240Z spindles/strut assemblies and 240Z Eibach PR springs and KYB struts like I would on a 240Z, would there be any ride height differences or unforeseen issues?? From what I can tell, and off the top of my head, The 260Z springs and struts are a slight bit longer, because the spring perch is lower on the strut tube and the tube is 3/16" taller. But it seems like everything else is identical (torsion bar, steering knuckle and control arm) So what did the change in tube length and lower perch do for the 260Z versus the 240Z??? Thanks for the facts and not overloading the thread with opinions (hint hint) Dave.

I'm pretty sure I've done this before but here ya go. P-side amp is a 400 watt 2-ch for the subs (Coustic) D-side amp is a 400 watt 4-ch Coustic for the other 6 speakers 2 subs in spare well are 10" MTX 4000 series 2) 6.5" in Kick pods are Alpine 2-ways 2) in doors are Kicker 4" 2-ways 2) in rear stock locations are Pioneer 5 1/4" 2 ways. Deck is a Pioneer AM/FM/CD/XM stereo Knob above radio (in old vent location) is sub amp control (Bass-knob) Kick pods are hand made by me Sub-enclosure is hand laid fiberglass by me 2 gauge power wire on battery to a distribution block then 4 gauge to amps

Alright guys, Stop!!! I'm blushing over here.... But seriously, I appreciate the compliments. I do what I do because I love to help others, I love a good challenge and most of all, I LOVE Z CARS. I really enjoy finding the answers to the questions that plague us as Z owners. What part fits what, how can I improve this, how can I make it safer and faster at the same time? That last one's a funny one. I've done upgrades for the headlights, parking lights, Honda wipers, power windows, power door locks, ZX alternator adaptor plug, sidemarker/blinker conversion plugs, and the latest is the Hatch Popper (thanks to Stan.) I still feel like I need to do more. You know? Leave my mark on Sociaty. Or something like that. I just want to grow old knowing that I did something for someone other than myself or my family. OK, this is getting mushy again. I'm done. Next issue? Dave.

On my 240Z, I inverted the latch. ie; put it on the bottom and put the catch rod up top (on the hatch.) I don't suggest this to anyone as it's a P.I.T.A. and hard to adjuust properly. I dremmeled a hole in the license plate light assembly and it's released by putting your finger in the hole and pushing upwards. I've also included pictures of a proper time tested "Compact door lock actuator" instal and a SPAL power window instal, both in my 240Z. If you ZOOM in on the rear of the Z picture, you'll see a slight hole in the license plate light, just under the latch area of the hatch (dead center) Dave.

While Me and Stan have been writing back and forth about the whole Door Popper, hatch popper, electric window thing, I came up with an idea and put words and thoughts into practice. I went down to the 260Z and backed it into the garage. Popped the hatch and started tearing the assemblies apart. I removed the lock, the latch assm and started thinking. I do this stuff for a living and putting enough torque in a downward motion would have to come from an enlarging cam or a downward pull. So I bent a 3/32" rod with a 45* bend and it basically looks similar to this.... _/_ but with a 45 instead of the 120? degrre bend shown. after the bend, it'll be about 1 inch long (1/8" then 3/8" then 3/8" then 1/8" I used an 11 LB cable pull hatch/trunk popper. If you look in the hole of the hatch that the latch came out of, you'll see a metal lip (about 1/8" tall) to the right of the opening. Grind that lip down so that the cable of the 11 or 15 lb actuator can slide in that area. Weld the bent rod parrellel to that ground area as shown. Then drill a hole in the push tab of the latch as shown. (hardened steel but a good bit will do it) I also used a dremmel with a thin cutting disc to make the opening for the cable to slide thru and into place. I also drilled a cone shape into the tab for the cable to sit in. On the cable, I put it in the Vice and left 1/4" up and exposed. I used my mig welder and just tapped the top of the cable to get my feed to ball up, then I tapped it again to get that weld ball to attach to the cable. I repeated this until I was happy with the end result. (a steel ball on the end of the cable.) I then slipped the cable thru the bend of the welded rod and out thru the latch hole, so I could slide the cable thru the cut on the tab and into the hole. Keeping a slight tension on the cable, I slid the Latch into its hole and bolted it down. I then used a screwdriver to "Latch" the lock of the latch? This puts the tab of the lock in an upward position. Then I slid the cable Popper into the Hatch near the underside of the emblems. Marked the holes of the Actuators clamp, and bolted the actuator mount down. I then slid the actuator into the clamp and gave the cable just a little tension. Then I moved the actuator forward to give the cable a little Slack (to give the actuator a running start and this gives the cable a "tug" so to speak) Then tightened it down into the clamp. I wired it up and tested it with ONLY A 9 VOLT battery and it worked like a charm. So as you can guess, it kicked arss with 12 volts. This set-up, with the cable being mounted as shown, on the tab of the latch, also allows for flawless use of the stock Hatch lock button. There is NO interferance what-so-ever. But you can still "Shave" the lock if you want. Hope this helps some and does'nt confuse too many. It took a few hours to complete but that was because it was all Xperimental at the time. Run the wires thru the frame of the hatch, over towards either defrost cable and drill a hole to pull the wires out and connect it to a fused switch or keyless entry system. Dave. I'll post a video on you tube of the "POP" and link it

Bluing and bubbling are almost a thing of the past, nowadays. New chemicals, treatments and process's almost eliminate those worries. Hell, they even have a new machine that has a buttload of cars programmed into it so the tinter just tupes in the vehicle type, required tint % (5,15, 20, 35, 50) and it laser cuts the tint to an exact fit and the tinter just adds it to the car like usual, saving a butt load of time and wasted tint. Just had mine done a few months ago. but the dipped quarter windows and rear hatch were a pain in the ass. And he's done many S30's. He uses LLumar metallized films . Here's a link to his site. Go to the gallory and scroll all the way down. I was one of the first cars on his site. And the picture reflects the new hood before paint. I went with 20% but don't tell the cops... Shhhhhhhh. http://xtremetintanddetail.com/default.aspx

you lost me there, if you can take a picture of the connector or terminal in question, I'll have a lot better chance of answering correctly. I have single and dual relay sockets for your basic 12volt 5 and 4 pin relays but not sure if I'm familiar with the ones you need. pictures please. Dave.

Been awhile since I even saw this thread. Every thing you need is in the links below. They even sell the crimping tool required for the crimps. I use a KLIEN red/black handle crimper. I just use the crimper to close the loop holding the wire, then flip the crimper to properly crimp them shut all the way. Same on the end peice to hold the insulated end of the wire. Sounds weird but I've done it that way for over 5 years. Have fun, Dave. http://www.crc2onlinecatalog.com/connectors.htm and.... http://vintageconnections.com/mail_order_form.htm scroll down to the parts.

Here's your link, boob. There's 1392? posts so have fun clicken away. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3800

I like it, It's got that Mad Max thing going on. I too hated my stock grill and since I have a 2 peice bumper (got hit the first week I owned the car) I wanted a grill that filled the front end up. SOOOOO... After getting hit by a Mazda B2000 (some punk not paying attention, I figured I'd take his $800 and do something for the car. I bought a brand new Hood out of LA CA, and then I went to the Metal Supplier down the road. I bought $40 worth of Aluminum 1/8" X 3/4" slat. And an 8' peice of "C" channel, similar to the C-channel used in the stock grills. Here's what I came up with, hope you like it. Open for Opinions. Dave.

141 MPH I-5 northbound near Mount vernon WA. Downhill, great tailwind 1/4 tank of gas and no passenger. Radar went off and had to slow down before top speed was reached. Maybe next time. Dave. Stock L24 E-88 head Stage 2 cam (480/277) 6 into 1 ceramic coated header Triple Weber 40DCOE's Mallory Unilite Dizzy Mallory Promaster Coil MSD 6A 79' ZX 5-speed 3:90 LSD R-200 w/ turbo CV's 225/50ZR16's on 16x7.5 Eagle Alloys Xenon front air dam Bre rear spoiler Eibach PR springs KYB Struts ES urethane everywhere

You're kidding, right? Kinda kills the whole "240Z Concept" does'nt it? I I totally understand your reasoning but the ZX is a square box, compared to the smooth lines of the original. That's just me though. I love the design but have issues with the rear louvers. Maybe a short window design or something else but no louvers. JM2C. Dave.

Thanks, and technically, It's not a classified ad. I'm just mearly stating what I'm bringing with me. "Z, Wife, 240Z upgrades, and a butt load of gas money, fricken gas prices are rediculous. Any body else traveling as far as we are? 1200 miles. Dave.

If memory serves correct, I found diagrams on this site or Zhome.com that'll tell you how to wire up the headlights with relays to that the headlight switch NO longer overheats and fails. Look around, there's tons of stuff on here and other sites that'll direct ya down the right path to enLIGHTenment, get it.....:lol: Dave AKA Zs-ondabrain at CZC

Slow down Justin, No need to get all hostile. And a slight correction would be that the older civic style has the correct shaft, whereas the accord need a shaft correction ontop of the usual mounting plate redrill. It's cool though, Even I mix shite up every once in a while. And he's right though, it's 19 fricken pages to find out that the last 3 or 4 are the ones that really need to be read. I do, however, appreciate the good words. Dave. AKA Zs-ondabrain at CZC

Me, the wife and the 70' will be making the 1200 mile trip. We'll leave on the morning of the 24th and be in Anaheim by friday evening. We have reservations for the Desert Palms 25th -27th. We'll be at the BBQ on friday, the dinner on Sat and the show on sunday. then 1200 miles back to Marysville, WA. I'll have a bunch of my upgrades with me, for sale, to any and all until they're gone. I'll be bringing.. ZXP's (240Z to 280ZX alternator adaptor plugs) http://1971.240z.home.comcast.net/~1971.240z/extras/alt-adapt.html HLH's (240Z headlight upgrade harness) http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20365 HLH-HW's (same as above but a hard-wire version for 260Z's and early 280Z's with headlight connections in front of the radiator, like the 240 and 260Z's) PLH's (240Z up to 3/73 Parking light upgrade harness's) http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20151 PLH-HW's (same as above but a hard-wire version for all S30's) I might also bring some.... SCP's (sidemarker conversion plugs) http://1971.240z.home.comcast.net/~1971.240z/extras/sidemarker.html LSC's (LED sidemarker lights) they plug into your sidemarker housings just like a regular bulb but are encased in a 1"x 2" plastic case. Brighter and better than the MSA ones. I might even bring some other LED stuff and will be taking LED taillight orders at teh show, or even before if you catch me before sunday. Hope to meet as many of you as possible. Find me at any of the 3 events and introduce yourself. Look for my Z (with a black hood now and the custom aluminum grill and LED taillights) or either one of us...

The first is a barrel clasp, the second is a "Male terminal and the third is a female. The barrel connector should be available at the auto parts store, or cut a butt connector in half. I sell the male and females for the Datsuns, as I am the one that makes the headlight upgrade harness's for the 240Z's (sold here and on classiczcars.com) I also use the males on the ZXP adaptor plug (280ZX altrernator adaptor plug that allows you to upgrade the 240Z altrernator to a 60 amp ZX alternator) they are 0.20 cents each. How many do ya need? 5 for $1 ($1.50 for shipping all that you need.) I also offer the 3-pin male and female plugs that those terminal go into. (pictured below) As well as the 6-pin plugs used on the Voltage regulator, wiper motor connection on the firewall, areas of the engine harness under the dash and the ignition switch. only the plug that holds the male terminals, the female 6-pin is NLA. unless you take one from a raped harness. The 3-pins are $1.50 each and the 6-pin (pictured) is $2.25 each. Let me know what ya need. Dave. Contact me at wolfin32z@yahoo.com

I know I daid this before but here it is again. When you hook the (+) wire to the cigaretter lighter and the (-) wire to the door pin wire on the passenger side, the lights come on the same as the dome light. And when you turn the dome light on, the cathodes come on as well. 2 wires and it's done. The camera does'nt make it brighter by that much. And the lights are not harsh in the slightest bit. They are very revealing but out of sight and bright enough to be helpful without the glare of neons. Dave.

That's great, But you could'nt pay me to buy a ZX. Call me picky or what-ever, I just don't like the ZX. I'll stick with my 70' Z. It's nice that Nissan finally go the lighting correct, and all Z's have lights in the glovebox, I quess they figured we'd wanna be able to find the registration after dark, when being pulled over for having a fast sports car. Dave.