nazar

what wheels are those 5 spokes? I really like those, been lookin for a nce 5 spoke, thinkin about hte rh zs but those are nice too what size as well? Thanks

im sure you wont notice it as you pull 1.2g's and 11.5 1/4 times

sound good...im gona measure and see if one of those camaro intakes will fit between the hood and radiator...they look nice cause they are conformed to squeeze through there on a z28...it would look cool with a cone filter right behind the front grill

I search and search and the more i do, the more confused I get Heres the deal: If i pick up a 91 q45 lsd r200/230, exactly what will i need to make it work? 71 240z Say I order the mustache bar from arizonazcars...I keep seeing everyone making elaborate mounting systems for these that look like a maze, will the billet mustache bar eliminate the need for all this custom fab work?? It looks like a nice piece. So say i get the q45 diff and the billet mustache bar to mount in a 240z, what all other parts do I need? I will have a warmed over lt1 with a t56 so it will need to go to something reliable in the back thanks guys

if i had the money i'd get it, its a badass engine that you wont be able to recreate Come on....dry sump oiling, some titanium rods and ****....plus, they make 500whp with headers!!!!!!!! Go check out some dynoes of guys with the new z06's with just long tubes they get 500whp A stock z06 runs 11's....in a datsun, that engine is a drop in 10 second kit, ad headers, cam, intake, DEEP into 10s with drivability..not bad There's guys making 600whp on those with bolt ons and cam.

Interesting BUt your's mounts the filter before the frame rail...and looks like it would require a custom hood? I was thinking more of a pipe that goes past the radiator and frame rail and drops the filter in front of it, which will feed air straight through the grill into the filter. They make those pipes for camaros where it squishes as it goes over the radiator to clear the hood, wonder if it would work on our cars...i'll measure how much space there will be between the radiator and the hood....that would look so nice and symetrical

also, my lt1 came with an intake already on it...this one i think its either the KN cai or the moroso, it comes out to the side and down...will i be able to use it on the 240z?? Its a nice piece and has a filter and all, costs like $200 new...would be cool if it fit Its made to fit the z28's and has the design to wrap around the radiator as you can tell in the indent

i couldnt find the right picture nor the manufacturer, but it looks like this(plastic though) just goes over the fans and radiator and down into the front grill Seems like on a datsun there is plenty of empty space in there, do you guys think it would work? Would look more symetrical instead of going around and wraping around the radiator

good stuff BUT, cutting and drilling and tapping plastic just sounds scary, i know plastic is so brittle and soft, i hate to think i have to thread into it, i never like threading into plastic, lol...i always **** it up or overtighten it...wtf does gm use plastic slaves?? STUPID And why do they not have a bleed screw, how do you bleed your clutch???? I heard the t5 tranny slaves have a bleed valve, will it work???

so how do you wire in a taurus fan to work with the lt1 ecu and wiring harness? I like the fact that a z28 fan should just plug right in, im assuming there are wires from the ecu going straight to the fan... But then again, the z28 fans are like 34" wide or something, i dont think they will fit a taurus fan sounds good, but how do i go about wiring it in so it is all automated

Ive been reading up on this, seems like using an aftermarket master and adapting to a stock slave is a headache with the lines...why not just use the whole stock assembly, and somehow just make the master fit with a bit of fabrication? Is the only difference the mounting bracket is angled??

For those doing lt1 swaps like myself, why dont people just use the z28 fans with the JTR radiator? I mean the pcm and harness are already wired and programed for it, it would be plug and play, why do people bother with aftermarket fans or fans from tauruses(??) and stuff Cant we just make these fans from the lt1 z28s fit, and then just plug right into the harness and be done with it? Plus its dual fan so im sure it would be more than enough This is the route im going, i rather do technical hacking to make it fit, then electrical rewiring to make other stuff work somehow...

can you imagine that setup in a 240z from the earlier days? 2400lb vs 2800lb.... great job though, I cant wait to get my lt1/t56 running and to the track What tires were you on?

will something like this work? Its out of a 96 z28 lt1 t56 Seems like a complete kit that would work right? After that all I need is a pedal? What kind of pedal should i get/ My 240z came originally with a manual, but the last owner converted to a sbc 327 with 3 speed auto, and took it out...

the engine and ecu are 94, the t56 is 96

what will i do about brakes, most datsun brakes seem to be based around the 4 lug pattern?

I just bought an lt1 with ecu and complete wiring harness as well as a 4l60e already attached to it(sold as a combo for a good deal) plus the motor has many upgrades on it already as well Then I also got a t56 tranny from ebay as well, out of a wrecked 96 z28 with only 64k miles, hopefully its in good shape. I will then sell the 4l60e to make up some of the costs. What do I need to do next? Clutch? Hydrolics system? Pedals? Speed sensors? Drive shaft? It will go into my newly purchases 1971 240z and I will get a r200 rear end What do I do about driveshaft? Pedals? Speed sensor? Flywheel? Clutch? I want to get a light flywheel. Do I just order one for an lt1/t56 as I would if i had a camaro? Also...my Z came with a sbc in it already mounted scarab style, sortof(actually just brackets welded to stock motor mount) I will cut those off I think and get the JTR mounts so that my tranny lines up with my shifter cuttout... Will the JTR kit be ALL I need to mount an lt1/t56 combo????

I have always liked 5 spoke wheels on a Z with a lip but didnt want to spend a fortune, so i settled on these: its the ROH zs wheel but in a special edition dark model. I will do 17x8.5/17x9.5 BUT they dont make them in our bolt pattern, so I will get the mustang pattern(5x4.5) and was thinking of the hub adapters My question is, with ZG flares, will this work? How far out do the spacers push the wheel? I was thinking 245/265 tires Help me out guys

if the ecu in a camaro sits inside the engine bay and so will mine and im using hte same engine, shouldnt all the wire lengths already be ok? Why would they need to be extended? Also...its going into a 71z which was carbed so there really arent any ecu or engine wires that are in the car, plus I bought the car with a 327 sbc in it already so some things are already wired up(the stock tach and speedo were even done correctly) I will try to keep it as basic as I can. I wont use ANY emission equipment to clean up as much wire as I can. I know the donor car cought fire inside and only the interior wiring was burned up and I think the map sensor is the only piece that burned up according to the seller...everything else is intact. We'll see, the engine assembly should be here friday. Im excited because from the pictures looks like the lt1 is already heavily modified, could even be a stroker...its got some sort of domed pistons, rocker arms, new valve springs(i assume its got a cam then) intake, long tube headers, etc...may have scored on this buy The rear end on the donor car was broken, so i assume the car was drag raced, and might have the stock 4l60e tranny modified as well...which i will most likely sell and do a t56(i know just keeping hte auto would make things much easier and cheaper, but im a hardass and I just dont see the car being an automatic)

so what exactly are you guys sending the stock harnesses out for and paying for? FOr someone to cut off some wires you wont use??? I dont understand what you guys mean by editing the harness, if you mean cutting off plugs and wires you dont need to use, am i just reading too much into this, is it easier then some people make it out to be Here is how i see it, the engine is gonna come with the ecu and most of the wiring harness still plugged into the engine Each plug only goes into a certain connector, most manufacturers do this. So just run the wires from the ecu to whatever places they belong, cut off the ones you wont use(emissions stuff) program that stuff out of the ecu so it doesnt go crazy at those wires not being there, tuck it all away and be done. Send power to the ecu and ground appropriately and youre done right??? As far as gauges, im using all autometer stuff so it will be wired independently... The tranny will be a manual so no need to wire tranny either... How hard does it get? Correct me if im wrong...

Hey guys I have a 94 lt1, ecu and 4l60e tranny I will most likely be converting to a t56 and selling the auto tranny. I bought the engine, tranny, ecu complete with harness out of a burned car and all the wiring going into the cab was burned. Meaning I wont get the obd1 port and wiring. How do i go about fixing this? I will run lt1 edit and i want to tune my car but without an obd1 port i cant. Also i need to reprogram the ecu to bypass the auto tranny, as well as other emission related stuff. Is there a dedicated wiring harness that goes to the auto tranny from the ecu? Do i just cut this out completely since i will be using a t56???? I really dont want to get a whole new wiring harness as they are $500 or so from painless. THe harness that goes into the engine is all good and intact and the guy supplied the lt1 fuse box as well, but any wiring that goes back behind hte firewall are totally burned up. What are my options? I also want to have some sort of check engine light somewhere so that i can know if there are any codes being thrown....

Just bought an engine for it finally 94 lt1 with aluminum heads, and the 4l60e tranny with ecu It came out of a car that burned up, but the engine, tranny, ecu are in good shape. I may have gotten a killer deal because the engine seems to be heavily modified and the seller wasnt exactly sure with what. Seems like it has long tube headers, a intake kit, aluminum roller 1.6 performance rockers with big valve springs, meaning it probably has a cam....the bottom end seems like its got a built block becaus the rods and bolts dont look stock and he says he is almost sure the pistons are domed... Im excited, because i got it for a really good deal, $1000+ shipping!!! Once it gets here i will tear it apart and go through it.