nazar

spec is having a 15% sale right now, so i got it for $254, not bad considering i dont have a flywheel at all. I dont like aluminum and its alot more expensive as well. Aluminum tends to warp easier. THe billet he says is like 26lb, the stock is close to 40lb, the aluminum is about 20lb The billet should be a noticable difference. Now gotta find a clutch and slave to finish off the tranny ,as well as fab up a tranny mount.

So I called spec about their billet steet flywheel, and they say that their lt1 flywheel already comes with a weight attached to it for balancing to match the factory specifications I guess Does this sound correct? He says it should be a bolt on deal, no need to balance it because it already has a weight tied to it. If so, I'll just order it, they have a 15% sale now and I like that fact that its still steel but is also lighter, i dont like aluminum flywheels

QUOTE=wheelman]Danno74Z, Yes I installed the cam myself and did the valve springs at the same time, but I kept the stock rockers. The LT1 I have came from a noCaprice cop car so it has the iron heads which are supposed to flow about 20% better than the aluminum ones. Feel free to email or PM me with whatever questions you have. Edit: BTW Nazar don't assume the cam is a hot cam just because the rockers are rollers. To be sure you either need to pull it and look for part numbers or measure the lift and duration. What car did the engine come out of? F-Body or Vette. Wheelman yes but notice i also said it had the lt4 package valve springs(green stripe) so if the guy had lt4 gm rollers and lt4 valve springs that come in the hotcam kit, i assume he has a hotcam in it...we'll see when it fires up Just installed the electric csr water pump, but its got me worried A buddy of mine had one and the impeller came off, seems as if its threaded on counterclockwise and it spins clockwise and it came loose....stupid design if you ask me...they say they are suposed to be threadlocked, but that cant be enough to keep it from coming loose...wtf?

I just recieved my prothanes, man they look stiff, hopefully they wont be too stiff. I am going to fab some sort of support on the chassis for the stock mount, it just scares me knowing the whole engine is gonna sit on that hump that is welded to the chassis

i am almost certain my engine has a hotcam package in it as it has the hotcam roller rockers and springs in it, i assume its got the cam, I originaly wanted to 230-236 comp cam cam cause I like the agressiveness and topend, but if its already in there, the hotcam will do for now to break everything in and tune it. Should be around 300whp, more than enough. Just recieved my q45 diff today, took it apart prepped and painted the body black, and the cover aluminum color, looks soo nice...im excited BTW, this thing is HUGEEEE beeeefyy and heavy...Should hold everything I throw at it

lol, smart, i dont know why i didnt think of that, i wiill check today, since i do have the flexplate Thanks...If not, I'll just find a factory flywheel and balance my billet one to match, i really want a lighter flywheel(but not aluminum) to get this things revs to match its looks

yes the bottom end was rebuilt previously, but i have no idea of knowing any facts. I do see that it has 30 over pistons, the cylinders have been bored and honed(looks nice, still see the cross hash marks), looks to have new rods, but again, i dont know if it was balanced My best guess is to just get a billet steel flywheel, neutral as they all come, and put it on, see how it is, if it throws it off, i will then try to match it to a stock flywheel and see if that helps, but i hope it works on the first try... Would there be any possible way of figuring out if the rotating assembly was balanced? I guess the only way to do it would be to take out the rods, pistons, crank, and flywheel and balancer and take it to a shop?

i have no clue, but whhy couldnt you just take stock q45 drive axles and shorten them to fit instead of buying adaptors and such I mean youre adapting them to stock driveshafts??? Whats the point of a strong diff and expensive strong adapters and then hook it all up to weak axles? Or are you guys getting some sort of custom strong axles? and what are CV's already, i kinda sorta know, but not exactly, why do we need 4 of them?

My lt1, ready to go almost. Its a 355ci bottom end with 30 over pistons, stock aluminum heads with lt4 hotcam package(springs, 1.6 rr, cam, etc) , hardened pushrods. On the way is a electric water pump and ported tb. I painted and polished the manifold and fuel rail. The top of the TB is getting a billet plate since the stock plastic one is melted. Yes those are sanderson 1 5/8" huggers D port THe engine bay ready to go as well. Degreased, primered and painted and cleared with antirust paint. Going through the wiring as well. Just mounted the tilton 7/8" master clutch in the stock location. Looks nice decided on sparco torino seats, supportive but comfy and they recline just in case. Ive had sparco copies before and let me tell you guys, the extra cost is worth it. THe build quality is much better. DUal locking sliders, dual locking recliners, FIA approved brackets and frame(I used honda accord sparco brackets, cut off a bit of the front mount and mounted them straight to the Z, perfect fit. YES, that is a dynojet, its nice having 24/7 access to these toys. matching steering wheel, still waiting for hub, lol... aahhh...my beloved t56 and heres a finished project we did at the shop....510 with fully built sohc, custom turbo kit, tec2 standalone, custom bodywork, suspension, wheels, wilwood brakes, etc....pretty trick Anyways, next up is to mount the motor(finally got all the hardware). Then on to suspension with all new bushings, coilovers and brakes. CCW wheels will be my choice as well, its gonna hit the wallet hard but nothing else has impressed me. Those along with ZG flares in cf will work well. THe car will be getting repainted same factory color as well. Im now working on the fuel, got all the hardware(3/8" braided lines there and back, walbro 255 external pump, earls fittings/filters, lt1 adapters for fuel rail, fuel sump) Its fun, im starting to really enjoy this car and project

sorry, yea i did Takin it all apart is too much work for me, it kinda sux thats the only way to do it, doesnt make much sense. I'd really like a lighter flywheel for the revs and roadracing. Heres a question, are all lt1 flywheels balanced the same? Meaning can i just borrow an lt1 6 speed flywheel, then take my billet one, and get them matched??? Even though the flywheel wasnt specific to my engine?

Got a good deal on a 94 vlsd q45 r200/230 diff with 90k miles on it. What all else do I need to make it work? Im getting the ArizonaZcars mustache bar, and wiill make my own front mount. Other than that, what else??? I am looking to build a rear end that will handle hard driving and launching on drag radials. I know there is lots of info, but nowhere a full detailed list to make it easy. Its going into a 1971 240z with an lt1 and t56

I bought a 94 lt1 out of a camaro that also came with a 4 speed auto I also then bought a 96 t56 tranny out of a camaro my question is what do i do about the flywheel? I know these cars are externaly balanced and you have to get your new flywheel matched to your old one, but what if i dont have an old flywheel since my car was an auto? How do i balance my billet steel flywheel that i plan on getting to match my rotating assembly?

I bought a 94 lt1 out of a camaro that also came with a 4 speed auto I also then bought a 96 t56 tranny out of a camaro my question is what do i do about the flywheel? I know these cars are externaly balanced and you have to get your new flywheel matched to your old one, but what if i dont have an old flywheel since my car was an auto? How do i balance my billet steel flywheel that i plan on getting to match my rotating assembly?

damn guys, these are motor mounts, they hold your motor to your car, why not spend a few bux? $2.71 for a motor mount? I would be scared to drive the car. I just ordered prothane mounts from summit, both tranny and engine. I like urathane, i run them in my current car and the vibrations arent half bad. Plus, its not a daily driving commuter, its a project car. Seems like summit has been getting quiet a few orders from me lately

cool thank you What kind of bolts are you guys using to do all the mounting? Those 2 1/16" brackets are pretty long, so longer bolts are necessary, are you guys using some harnedened bolts? ARP? Something strong ? I mean it is holding the motor in Also, the mount that attaches to the datsun frame, does it only attach with 1 bolt? ? Just from the looks of the setback plate, seems like the motor wouuld be torquing heavily on that single bolt since its set back like 4", it would be almost like a prybar...but what do I know, I guess people have been using this for years...just doesnt seem very strong or sturdy, are you guys bracing the stock datsun mounts that are on the chassis??? I will have to attach the setback plate to the motor and then the spacer bracket to the GM motor mount because of clearance issues with the sanderson block huggers, they clearly wont fit with the spacer bracket mounted directly to the motor.... And i keep hearing about how people have to grind alot of the setback plate off to fit these headers, JTR sells this kit together to fit right? Why doesnt it fit?? Hmm...we'll have to see how it all sits, for now, it seems as the headers shoot down at an angle into the oil pan as well, not sure how it will fit but i'll have to see I guess....they said it would fit One thing wont fit for sure is the knock sensor i believe it is on the passanger side with the sanderson header, its clearly in the way, what gives???

http://www.suspension.com/prothane_g_m..html will these prothane ones work then? If im goin to be buying new mounts, might as well get polyurathane then? TO reduce engine movement???

the wheels are +12mm 17x10