nazar

i just found this picture, seems like i may be missing those rubber mounts that are attached to the Z? My lt1 didnt come with those....what are they and where do i find them? THe only rubber mount was the one that was attached to a big plate mounted to the block, but it definetly doesnt look like that...do i need early sbc rubber mounts? here's an lt1 with those rubber mounts, i dont think i have those?? was my lt1 supposed to have them?

REcieved all my things from JTR and was playing with the engine brackets. I dont get it, lol I got 2 plates and those 2 Y spacers, 1 longer, and 1 shorter. THen i have my lt1, with just the holes in the block where the mounts went Am i missing something? DO i still need to buy some GM parts? How does the block mount to the chassis? lol....i think im missing something

Ok, wheels are 17x10 with 12mm offset, but they are 5x114.3 so i wil have to get adapters which will push them out a bit as well I am using ZG flares and most likely coilovers. Will this work? They also have 25mm offset i believe, but i like the look of the 12 concave spoke look I have a few choices for adapters, but most are about 1-1.5" thick. Help me out guys, the wheels are 5 zigen fn01rcs that i can get pretty cheap at cost thanks

those wheels are mustang fitment and camaro fitment specific

I dont understand the dilemma alot of people are having with this in the lt1 world, always going through optisparks and spending $400 per replacement, when you can go with something like this: http://delteq.com/images/full_kit_640.jpg http://delteq.com/images/vette_coils_600.jpg its $700 for the whole kit!!! Not a bad deal considering a crapy stock optispark is $400 and a good set of wires is $100. The above kit includes custom wires and all. I am considering just tearing the optispark out and getting this coil on plug style kit. I havent even put the motor in but am considering this before i even attempt to keep the optispark. On top of all, im sure this is a far superior performing ignition system over the optispark. Any of you guys use this system? Its pretty much like converting to a ls1 style ignition system but aftermarket. Looks nice to me

looks like ill be sending mine out tomorow:) SOrry guys for sounding like such an idiot, wiring just gives me a headache. I do have a badass diagnostics tech/wiring genious at my buddies shop who can help me out along the way, all he does at the shop is wire standalones into cars, he just finished wiring up a supra motor/ecu in a 260z But i still gonna send mine out to get modified like above, that will make our lives much easier. 1 other question: Like i stated before, i have a chunk of wiring that was cut, it seems like a set of wires going into the cab from the ecu harness because it was cut at the rubber grommet, probably like 15 wires or so in bulk, is this ok? Which part of the harness would this be? I will take pictures tomorow. THanks guys

hell from that picture of what i can tell, that makes it DAMN easy, those naked wires that are prelabeled just hook up to the datsun using a datsun diagram, hook the rest up to the lt1(no brainer) and thats it huh....****, seems easy enough Who can i pay to modify my harness like that? Thats awesome My harness isnt as clean since hte donor car was on fire, but the wiring seems fine, just some of the wrap has a bit of damage, but as far as i can see the wires are all intact. I do need a new map sensor i think as the camaro one melted. I feel like im getting closer:)

and this cost how much? Those naked wires, are they wires that were wiring INTO the harness? Because I have a chunk of wiring that I think went inside the cab on the camaro that was cut..but i dont think we use those anyways Thanks for the help guys

would anyone be kind enough to go through those 19 connections? That would be worth money to me, i'm willing to pay for your tylenol to type that up:) You talk about 5 connectors, youre not talking about hte main big ones? There are only 4 going to the ecu I stil dont understand after looking at that link i posted, of the harness broken down, where any of it plugs into a ground or battery? Also, this guy who rewires the stock harness, he doesnt just pull out what we dont use and relabel the harness, does he actually pin out the 19 connections we need to make and label those? If so, that could be of great help. My other problem is that the 240z already had a 327 small block in it, so who knows what parts of the stock harness are there or modified....hmmm... In that diagram, there are 6 connections to the ecu, am i just not reading it right? Arent there 4 main plugs? YES PEOPLE, im an idiot when it comes to wiring diagrams

as far as out of the ecu, the whole harness seems to have a purpose and a connector at the end, i dont see any open ended wires that hook up to anyhting like power or ground or anything....there are 4 plugs that come out of the ecu and go all over, all end in a connector that has only 1 specific place it will plug into..am i missing something? http://shbox.com/1/harness.htm that is what i am looking at. Where does it go to the battery and ground? And where do i tap in the ignition wires? I will be running all autometer gauges to make things easier. I rather not use the ugly camaro fuse box...its mind boggling.

might be a simple question... How does the ecu harness get power???? There is nothing in the harness that goes to the battery? ALong with my engine i recieved the camaro huge fuse box along with a wiring harness that is even larger then the engine harness...wtf am i to do with that??? Im totally lost. I understand the wiring harness that plugs into the ecu and all the appropriate plugs on the engine, but what from there?? How does it all get power?? What is to be fused? Do i really have to use that second harness someway? Its got all the rest of the wires for lights, switches, interior ****, etc...and that ugly fuse box Is there an easier way>??>

how did you guys deal with the fuses and relays? my engine came with the whole harness plus the rest of the cars harness and fuse box, but 1/2 the **** in there i wont use, like lights, headlights, turnsignals, ac, power steering, etc.... And how does that fuse box wire into the engine harness? Looks like 2 different harnesses to me? THe one coming out of the ecu looks simple as it all plugs into the engine at their specific spots...but the rest im lost on...fuse box, relays, etc...i dont even know how the fuse box hoooks up to the ecu

Well the engine cam 2 days ago and i finally ripped into it today, pulled all the wiring off, all the lines and hoses. Pulled the manifold off, valve covers and heads. The heads already have GM 1.6 roller rockers. I think the springs are stock. Interesting enough, the engine has already been rebuilt, the pistons look to be forged(almost positive) and say .030 on top, the cylinders measure 4.020 or so....the cylinder walls look nice and have all the cross hatch marks on them. The cylinder heads are untouched and I will most likely be sending them out to advancedinduction.com for their full street port, polish, valves and valve job, port matched manifold and I will have them put in the comp cam 986 dual valve springs for the comp cam 230-236 xe cam im getting(570/565 lift) cams This should be good for about 380-400whp not to mention I believe I already have a 383 stroker(rods look aftermarket as well, i will measure the crank to know for sure tomorow) Hopefully i did good on this engine buy, i got it on ebay from a car yard who didnt know much about the engine being modified already:) My t56 is showing up tomorow. Im kind of scared of the power, i see well setup camaros with this sort of head/cam package runing 11's at 3400lb!!!!! I cant imagine this engine when it goes into my 2350lb 240z.... Still undecided about wiring...whether i will get a harness or hack the stock one. I also ordered a walbro 255 hp external pump and some 8an hoses...i will do a sump on the stock tank with 8an feed and return lines....jeez, so much work.....my head hurts...one day, one day i will be driving this beast

lol....good idea, i wonder if they make reverse flow alternators??

i called discount tire and they swore they dont have that wheel in a 4 lug, even though when you look at it on their website, zoom in on the wheel it is cast into the wheel on the lip where it says 5x114.3(690kg) and 4x114.3(620kg) i hate not getting any info and having misinformed sales reps...ooh well, must be a shitty wheel, lol im going back to my original plan of the ROH Zs's 17x9.5 all around, or if i come up on money, 17x11" CCW's

hmm...good idea i just dont like the alternator sitting high up like that on a performance motor, reminds me of a truck...just not pretty to look at and forces you to run a long belt with a bunch of idler pulleys Maybe a set of deep spacers would work out well...wonder how the spacer will affect the balancer, since its there to...well...balance, lol I may try that, i just like how it looks all clean, and there is definetly tons of room to move things up on a JTR mounted lt1, lol....hell, you can stand in the engine bay in front of the motor

i just bought a 255 inline as well on ebay, $119 shiped with barbed fittings, but i will probably be using 6an fittings for the lines..now gotta get the lines and fittings. What size line should i run for the feed/return ? Its gonna be an lt1 with heads and cams and probably 30lb injectors Can we put an style fittings on the ends of this pump? What kind of thread sizes are each side? Hopefuly the same and hopefully big enough

i wont be using my old scarab setup because i got a t56 and i need it to line up so i will be ordering the JTR kit... hm....damn the engine sits low in that setup....jeez...I hope it does cause it would look soo much cleaner Are you worried that it would hit the motor mount? because that picture is a specific to lt1 engines, that alternator is pictured on a lt1...and since the engine mount is the same as in your car, i assume it would clear....seems like the alternator sits right where your idler puley and bracket setup is...also they say it will only work with a certain gm alternator(i think its smaller as well) maybe this is why it works?

looks like this is a no brainer, ive been researching on how to setup my belts and some people are building custom idler pulleys and stuff, well this seems like it would fix everything if you're only running an alternator, this is great, and good price Plus, this would clear up ALOT of space....alternator huge aluminum bracket, power steering pump and pulley, ac pump and pulley, idler, all that garbage...WOHOO...im ordering it...lol...excited about a mount, jeez I guess we have to get the specific alternator as well, i guess the car can use a new one anyways

its on ebay for $80

Please guys, tell me this placement of the alternator will clear in a 240z?? Because its awesome, its cheap and its perfect as I will only be using an alternator on my lt1

what was the offset? and was it 4x114.3 for sure? thats awesome, i like that wheel and we can use some fat tires... I hope its a decent offset to give it a deep spoke look...not that flat look, something like +10 offset or +20 at the most...0 would be best, lol... I'll call tomorow to confirm with tires.com

i thought + offset means they still out further? The offset is +25, not -25....or am i confused? So a 25mm spacer will push them out another inch, im assuming this will push a 8.5" wheel past the fendder? This is good because i am getting ZG flares and i want to fill them in...thats why i was thinking of a 275/40/17 tire all around

I am considering the rota d2 wheels, kinda clean lookin and they have our bolt pattern, 4x114.3 They have 17x8.5 with +25 offset HOw will this fit inside and outside fender? I was considering 255/45/17 tires out back , and 245/45/17 in front or something in that range