nazar

what will the end caps do? Are you saying they are stronger? They still pop in and out, so are you welding them to the cv??? Im not understanding, sorry, can you explain more? And the question is, why are they walking like this? Is everyone having problems with this q45 swap ? This is the first time i read about this problem, and i know tons of people on here have the q45 swap rear end

Some say that it will run worse, but ive seen dynos over 350whp with stock heads and that cam, and never an lt4 hotcam that high I would actually not mind loosing a bit of lowend, its just so much of it as it is, I'd like to gain more of the 5500-6800rpm power curve I have the nitrous all ready to go, im really tempted, but the last thing i want to do now is break more ♥♥♥♥ I may just hold off and do heads and such and try to get 400whp N/A That at 2500lb and slicks should be good for high 10's

I am in the process of swapping out all my suspension and was thinking of stepping up the cam before i get around to finally doin the heads Right now i have an lt4 hotcam setup and ive made 332whp/341ft/lb torque I have seen many people with great results with this gm cam on stock heads, its about as big of a cam recommended for stock heads I have been hearing that I can make upwards of 360whp with this cam, so thats an extra 30whp with just another cam swap I can sell my lt4 cam and springs and make back some money. At the same time i will do a timing chain upgrade as well I was thinking my car at 2520lb with 360whp n/a would be nutzo I have no problems pulling away from viper gts's now with my lt4 cam, i was hoping to set my aims at ford gt's and a turbo ls1 ss in town. That may require nitrous though My friend just made over 400whp with his 847 cam, but he has extensive headwork and intake porting

how come speedway shafts are different lengths and mml shafts are the same length i think this may have played a roll in my problem, cause how else would this happen? How does a halfshaft punch a hole in 1 cv housing causing the other side to pull the cage out ripping the c clip with it and stripping the ledge on the cv housing? It just completed grenaded on itself and thats what caused my NO GO problem with the grinding noises in the back and getting stuck on the freewway

hmm

are you sure they are the same lengths for the q45 swap? What happened to my drivers side was the halfshaft somehow punched a hole through the outside cv housing cap on the wheel side, how is that possible? Other then it being too long or maybe it was all because i put the cage in backwards?? Can that be it? I just dont understand

I finally pulled apart my rear drivetrain to fix the no go problem, and i am about to put it back together but wanted to double check that im putting the right length halfshaft in my passenger is already in so i cant measure it damn now lookin closer the other cv housing, the cage pulled out where the big C clip holds the cage into the housing, and stripped the housing eddge off pulling the c clip out with it, so i cant reinstall the c clip back in, there is no ledge The halfshaft and cage and all walked right out through my outer driver side CV housing, while pulling the cage through the inner cv and destroying the CV How and why does this happen??

just gotta get my hands on a new cv housing and insides. The halfshaft looks to be ok, hell it better be, it cost a few bucks, lol I'm gonna put it back together this weekend and start doin all the suspension install at the same time along with the 280z stubs Whats this spindle pin everyone keeps talkin about? Like you need a puller? I just took the bolt off and pushed it out and slid the rod out and seperated the spindle from the control arm, is this what you guys are talkin about???

I have blue springs on my car, 8 coils total, both front and back I am getting my suspension stuff in order and wanna figure out if i really need coilovers or if these, with tokico illuminas will be enough? Not sure who made these and what the rates are, any help?? If i can skip on spending $450 on coilover conversion i would be happy, since the car sits perfectly as it is with these, but i am afraid they may be too soft If i do go coilovers, what rates should i get? I have an lt1 6 speed making 350whp, 275 tires out back, q45 diff, and a red sway bar up front(not sure who made that one either) and NO bar in the back I was thinking 200lb front/250lb rear?

driver side halfshaft punched right through the cv end into the stub axle...must have been that cage i installed backwards into the cv housing on the outside part so...1 new cv housing and cage and i am ready to go i hope Im gonna assemble it correctly this time, the cage on the inside on 1 side has the teeth stepped in, does that side point towards the inside of the halfshaft?? Along with this im goin to swap in the new 280z stubs, new bearings and seals, new control arm bushings, tokiko illuminas, coilovers, etc.... same for the fronts, gotta finaly get the suspension in order

well let him know that i am very interested in them, for the right price, I will buy the wheels/tires, i need them for my application where i think they will work great I'd love to see what a proper launch would get me with my mild lt1 at 2540lb. I'd love to squeeze off some low 11 to mid 11's on the motor 350whp with the new cam

are those wheels 4 lug for the datsun pattern? If so, I'll buy them off of you, that would be perfect for my lt1 setup thats making 350whp, should hold me just fine i think

who makes eccentric bushings for the rear? Are they urathane or plastic?

also, my car has some blue lowering springs in it, i dont know what they car since they came with the car when i bought it. I ordered tokiko illumina shocks already, should i keep the springs and stiffen them up with the shocks? The car sits perfect heightwise, it looks great and just has a perfect stance with my big wheels/tires, but i dont know if it will be stiff enough

yea i am lookin for track car camber, so i want more camber What about the rear, i dont think i can justify spending $600 on a tubular control arm to be able to adjust camber and toe, what are my options for the rear for toe? Or should i just do bushings and keep the stock arms, since i already have some negative camber from lowering the car? I definetly want to focus on the front suspension to tighten everything up and i like the heim joint setup vs bushings for that direct feel and quicker respone, but will it affect noise levels much? I want to give my alignment guy as much to play with as possible so he can really dial the car in. I was hoping to stay away from camber plates because of the noise and having to cut and weld them in, not looking foreward to that

also is there an alternative setup i can go with thats beter or priced better??

Do adjustable control arms/tc rod combos allow you to adjust camber as well? I am about to order these for my front suspension and was wondering if i still need camber plates? I have a good guy here who does custom suspension alignments and he can dial it all in for me so i dont care about ease of adjustment, i just dont want extra parts, if i dont need camber plates, i rather avoid the extra hassle Also, i assume the AZC control arms come with the tc rods that are pictured corect??

does anyone still make a clean , strong, bolt in bracket???? Ive had mine just rigged in there but i dont like my bracketly, it mounts from the bottom and just takes up alot of space Id like a clean, nice strong mount to buy for my q45 diff

it better not be a halfshaft, i got those moser units that cost me a grip, so if its those, im going to be pissed and demand a replacement, but i dont think its them, they seem intact, i just really hope its the stubbies, since i got the 280z in the trunk lol

no way is that disk worn down that far it probably had less then 100 miles on the new disk, if its bad its gotta be torn up or shattered completely, you simply cant wear off htat much material in 100 miles I will put the car on the lift and pull the Ebrake, and try to put it in gear, if the driveshaft still spins then its the clutch, if not, its gotta be a spline somewhere, axles or something, i hope its not the diff, its a freaking q45 for gods sake. And i really hope its not the trany

do you guys think its still the clutch? If it blew up, wouldnt the car not even move? I think im gonna pull the stub axles to see if thats the problem, the wheels moving in and out under throttle makes me speculate the stubs...hopefully. I will find out this weekend I guess

i really hope its not the clutch, it sounds like its coming from the rear, plus it still turns the wheels when there isnt much friction on the tire, like it being in the air, plus the whole wheel pulling in and out when stepping on the gas on jackstands makes me think its something to do with the stub axles I know the 280z stub axles are stronger, thats why i got them a long time ago, just never put them in I'd be pissed if it was the clutch, it was a used clutchmaster dual friction but i put in a new disk, standard organic both sides

Well a few months back i was on a freeway on ramp and all of a sudden lost connection to my tires, i had no drivetrain I coasted to a stop, and tried driving off again and all i heard were aweful grinding noises but the car wasnt really moving. Got it towed home If i baby it barely i can pull it in and out of the garage sometimes, sometimes not, but thats about it I jack the rear in the air and put it in gear and i can go through the gears and spin the wheels no problem, but when i gunned the throttle the tires spun up but also seemed like the wheels were moving in and out every time i stabbed the throttle, and it seems like whenever there is enough friction to the tire, it loses connection to the drivetrain Is this my wheel bearings? Stub axles? These are still stock 240z stubbies, i have a 71 240z with an lt1, t56 and q45 rear diff with mosler half shafts and billet adapter I have 280zx stubbies waitinng to go in Also, my 280stub axles didnt come with the big nut on the innside, can i just reuse my 240z nut? Since i cant find those anywhere for sale Also, is there supposed to be a metal cylindrical sleve over each 280z stub axle center? 1 has it 1 doesnt, can i reuse my stock ones if they are supposed to have them?? I just bought 280zx stubies from a junkyard

I have some lowering springs on my Z that came with it when i first bought it, some blue springs, the car is lowered probably 1.5" Its got the lt1/t56 and all that in it now I will go coilovers soon, but for now im gonna get the tokiko adj. illumina shocks The car is way too soft now, especially in the rear, will the shocks themselves on a stiffer setting, firm the car up any? The rear especially, it squats too much, plus i think the rear shocks are blown, it sways and bounches too much and is softer then the front I already have springs, probably slightly stiffer then stock, if i were to set the tokikos on the hardest setting, will the current blue springs work them too much(meaning allow too much movement since they are not very stiff?) Or will this be a decent setup? I just dont want to go cuttin up the struts now and spend another $500 on coilovers, i rather do the shocks that seem to be very old and beat. The car sits perfect the way it is anyways Thanks guys