nazar

lol...yeah the money at the beginning was good, but it quickly ran out especially when i decided to ditch the stock rear end, this q45 swap has cost me some pennies what happened is that i sold ALL the parts off my eclipse, which had most of everything on it and made great power, but was useless FWD, and because it was an import, always got hassled by cops So that gave me 6000 to play with , on top of which i had a few more saved up. I also came up on great deals because if i wasnt in the garage, i was on the computer researching and finding deals. I scored on the motor and tranny especially. So far I've kept the total to under 10k including the very clean, rust free car and thats not 1/2 bad considering this car will outdo a z06 is virtually every test, and that was my original goal. Things like the seats and steering wheel i did trade work for and that kinda stuff, it all just came together and so far I am very happy with it and its been VERY fun, more importantly ive learned SO damn much. Once this thing is able to drive, im selling the eclipse and buying a little pickup:) On top of all that, I also had the car in my buddies shop for the first 3 months which HELPED alot since i got to go there any time and do all the dirty work which would have been IMPOSSIBLE at home. Ive spent probably every other weekend on it and probably about 3 hours on average per day in the past 4 months

one more shot, of me as well, lol btw, the project began early december, not too shabby I think...once it gets driving, I will start doing all the nitty gritty things to get it PERFECT, interior and exterior wise. Powerwise, I'll be plenty happy, I have dyno access all day so I wil just get it perfectly tuned and leave it at that. Its got an lt4 topend and a nice cam, no accessories and electric water pump, a similar z28 setup recently dynoed 350whp at the shop, anything over 300whp for me would make me very happy I had a 320whp fwd 99 gst eclipse that weighed 3100lb and it was very fast, this thing, with more torque and 600lb less weight should be a rocket

its a bit cleaner now, the wiring, i also got heat wraps for the ends of the spark plug wires, some plug wire organizers, the ecu is mounted right next to the battery on the inner fender, etc i just hope the zg flares dont kill the look, i wish i could keep it like this, but i just have no tire clearance, ill cut the fenders out, put the zgs on and hopefuly be able to swallow the meats when i go over bumps Man i just wanna drive this thing, my goal is by next weekend to take it around the block After that start doin the little stuff...i need to stil get my driveshaft angles, i just put it where i think it looks good now, we'll see, i can adjust both the height of the front of the diff and the rear of the tranny to get the angle i need, so i should be able to get it just right Im still looking for a stock datsun clutch pedal, as my car didnt have one when i bought it, lol...the missing link:)

i just got mine done, looks just like that but my infinity flange is round and matches the diff perfectly, yours seems to be different Now with it mounted, i have about 1/2" play on the input yoke in the tranny, is this enough? Its give or take a bit because i still have to ge the perfect angle on the diff, and that changes that play slightly, right now my diff needs to come down a tiny bit and angle more up, it points more straight, and the tranny points slightly down, i may just raise the tranny up as well, nothing that a few washers wont fix i need something to measure the angles, what are you guys using????

Motor in and running. Tranny in and mounted. Clutch master and slave hooked up and finished. Fans, fuel pump and water pump kicking. Fuel tank done. Q45 rear in. Willwood AZC front brakes in. Seats, steering and switches and pushstart in. Suspension mostly done. Driveshaft in. Still waiting on the halfshafts, carpet kit, some more insulating, hid conversion, some suspension bushings and steering bushings, stewart warner gauges and an exhaust and finally some paint to at least get it road worthy.

im getting mine next week, will paint them flat black, what do you guys think? The body will stay same color I think you need wider tires/wheels I had centerline make mine 17x9.5 with 275 in the rear and 255 in the front, the fronts dont stick out much, the rears about 1.5" Crossing my fingers, hope it looks good, better yet, hope the rear zg flare will swallow that tire sticking out currently, will have to cut the fender to allow clearence under compression btw those are centerline big sur's, 17x9.5 all around

so why did he wire in the leads then for the water and oil? He put in seperate wires for those, along with the tach and speedo, and in his diagram its labeled as if going to the gauge...??I guess I'll call him tomorow and figure it out Got my driveshaft in today as well as my own fabed up front q45 mount, will be finishing that up tomorow. Still waiting to get the halfshafts

from the center of the yoke to the diff flange, i measured 25.5" does that sound right? Cross my fingers, cause the driveshaft will be done at 4pm, so we'll see, i hope i had the diff positioned in the correct angle, the rear mustache bar spaced it front to back, i just hope i got the front height close enough, we'll see Man its getting close, just finished up all the clutch line, slave, master, i got a aluminum slave drilled and taped it so i hope it works out now gotta go to a junk yard and get a 240z clutch pedal, lol, my car is missing it Tomorow wire up some gauges. last thing im waiting for are my halfshafts from MML, and then i'll be ready to at least take her around the block, open headers, lol

a bit of warp, maybe acceptable, even though they are new, but these things wiggle from side to side, no way am i going to mess with the tabs or spacers, not when i sunk $800 into the parts ill call him today

why are you guuys using gm senders with stock gauges? Whats the point? Whats wrong with the stock sender? For now im using the stock sender with the stock gauge, dont want to go through the trouble of making anything else work, it works so why change it for now....ill just get stewart warner water and oil gauges

its wired into the ecu, so the ecu controls it with its own thermostat

why would you swap your stock gauge, doesnt it already read right???

i have the ses light wired in and it goes on like its suposed to and yes it stays on , i know i still have codes Here is my question, i specified the harness to have the ac, egr, evap, etc....stripped off and he left that stuff on. Will having that stuff not pluged in still throw codes? I think i turned most of them off using tunercat. And i wasnt aware of the leads not being pluged in throwing codes, that sux I dont have a speedo yet, aftermarket ones are $250 Also, another question, I have leads for oil pressure and water temp, can i hook those straight up to my stewart warner gauges? Or do i have to run seperate senders???

it should work lke a stock camaro, im using the stock ecu, stock wiring harness with the relays wired in by lt1350

so if i was to install a 0-90ohm gauge to my stock sender which is like 8-88 or whatever, without any modification what will it even read? I dont care it if goes all the way to the empty or full, as long as i know where full and empty is wll be enough for me, will it still read at least something??? For example, if it gets stuck on 1/4 tank but its really empty, i wil know 1/4 tank is empty, simple as that, i just need something

well i got them and installed them, the look great, fit great and are beefy Now I have a problem. My drivers side rotor is badly out of round. As i spin it, i see it going from one side of the pad to the other, probably a good 1/8" or so side to side movement. I was very disapointed, how could brand new rotors be out of round this badly? THe guy i took it to get turned didnt even want to do them because he said they were so bad that if he turned them i would have nothing left The passenger side one seems good, at least visually i cant see it moving side to side at all compared to the pad I will try to throw them back on the machine and measure how far out of round. What am i supposed to do? ??? and what are the chances of it being somethng else, like my hubs I got off a 280z to make the kit work? I highly doubt that though

As you guys know i got my lt1 running, the engine, and everything is fine, nice lopey idle, oil pressure, fuel pressure, etc.... I had lt1350 modify my harness it was a lifesaver ,BUT now I think I may have a slight problem. He wired in the fuel pump and cooling fan relays which is cool and they work. Fuel pump primes when ignition is on aand pumps when motor runs. When I program the ecu with the tunercat, and it reads the codes, the fan kicks on and off. Now when i flip the ignition switch, fuel pump primes, fans are off. As soon as i crank it and the motor starts, the fan kicks on and keeps runing. I am using a spal black magic fan, tons of air, but it stays on. What could this be? I dont run any emissions stuff, no air pump, no egr, no vats, etc... Also when I use a paper clip in the diagnostic port(top 2 pins) instead of t giving me flashing codes, it kicks the fans on as soon as i touch both, with the ignition switch on. Arent the fans suposed to stay off till it reaches a certain temp? I will get the tuner cat back and scan all the codes since my check engine light stays on, but was just wondering if any of you guys knew

what are the specs on the length? I would like to get the same thing done without taking the car to the shop, thanks

im back to the alternator now because thats my last step in the engine bay, as my car will probably only run for a few minutes without one, lol.... I dont want any idlers or pulleys, just a direct drive from the crank pulley to the alternator, so any help would be great guys

alright guys, decided against the ghettoness and spent all day doing things right Got my buddies optima in there. Ran a 2 guage ground to the starter bolt. Then a 2 gauge ground from the engine to the frame. Then another strap ground to the shock tower. Then 2 gauge wire to the starter for power. Then completely bypassed the dying ignition switch, went out and bought a badass switch board at a local race shop that looks trick with ignition flip switch, accesory flip switch and push button start, mounted it under the radio, and it has its own bulbs so everything lights up when you flip them, wired them all in with 10 gauge wire, heatshrinked, soldered and crimped everything. Wired in the fuel pump to the relay wired into my ecu as well as my fans. Flashed the ecu with tunercat to eliminate all uneeded things. Got in the car, flipped the accesory switch, heard a relay and all lights and stuff work. Fliped the ignition and the fuel pump and fan relays kick on, fuel pump fires up, pressure builds to 43 psi from my pickup running through a gauge. Push the button, cranks hard and fires RIGHT UP. No check engine lights, idles like a champ with a nice lope from the lt4 hotcam and 1.6 rockers through the open headers with a pipe bolted on for the o2 sensors. Everything seems fine. I was so damn excited, it was music to my ears!!! The things sounds badass, and with my light flywheel, light valvetrain, no power steering, no ac, and no alternator yet and electric water pump, this thing revs like an indy car, just blip the throttle and its at 5000 rpm. Cant wait, didnt want to play with it too much cause im still running through open headers and dont want to bend any valves. I was very happy. Im only 22 and this is my first major muscle car style project i took upon myself to build a badass ride. Ive been tweaking imports for a few years and had a 99 gst eclipse to 400whp, but this is a whole different ball game. I love it. Also installed my AZC willwood brakes, badasss. This next week my mosler half shafts come and my q45 adapter for my cv's . After that its on to the driveshaft shop and then to the muffler shop to get an exhaust. May even be able to drive it around the neighberhood next weekend!!!!!!!!

Well for those of you who dont remember, I finally got pretty close to cranking her over, lt1 355ci with a t56 in my 240z Got it jerry rigged to see iif she cranks, feeding power off my roomates car, and i was able to wire in everything. Key acc gets power to all accesories, key on gets power to the ecu, fan relay and fuel pump relay, then when i crank, it sends the signal to the starter but damn, it barely turns over, very slowly and then just clicks. Now i know i know, its ghetto riged for now, are the grounds and power feeds that important that it would not get enough juice ?

im stickin with my AZC kit I just got, they are just so damn pretty and those willwood calipers are HUGE, not to mention light. Cant wait to get my 280z hubs in the mail so i can do the swap, i cant believe the stock front rotors on my z arent even vented, thats scary

so i keep seeing these strut spacers and i still dont get it, what do they do to correct the geometry on a lowered z? Mine is lowered about 1.5" all around. I have a bigger problem out back, my camber is noticably off