nazar

I just set the front on the ground with wheels.... I should have known, at the level drop i was at before, i had absolutely no suspension travel, especially now with bumpstops in(previous owner took them out) Hmmm....i either need sectioned struts or at least the camber plates for sure. damn.... How much more travel do the camber plates offer over stock upper perches??? Right now, with my ride height, and my energy suspension bushings in uncut, the car sits right where the bumpstop is touching the strut(mind you the bumpstop is a good 2" long) I am on 225lb rates up front, 250lb in the rear, how much suspension travel do i need to keep to not bottom out with those rates?

Even if im lowered 2 " up front?

i'll be going next week, this cam bolt setup only allows .75* each way, but its ok because I want aggressive camber, I may just be adding that actually I want about 2-2.5* camber up front. Guys, question: My adjustable T/C rod lets me do exactly what? Toe or Caster? And exactly what is caster good for?

PICTURE UPDATE mmm....tire

Thats why for $200 i got some Technotoytuning T/C rods, they are badass looking, adjustable, beefy and are on a heim joint so they travel up and down effortlessly and smooth The front suspension is DONE and looks awesome On to the rear. I had a steel shop grind off the stock welds and weld on the ground control stop 2" below it, they know what they are doing and he did an awesome job welding it on, real clean, no warping

Does anyone have their T/C rods? I ordered a set as well as some ground control coilovers last week, still waiting for them, but hoping that they are nice pieces. Will they work well with stock control arms on ES urathane bushings? I can't seem to get a hold of them via phone or email, I was really hoping to get the stuff this week, because I was getting ready for a race this weekend...

my illuminas will be here tomorow I finally am in the assembly stage, got all parts cleaned and painted, looks very nice, bushings all installed, sway bar mounted and now i gotta tackle the strut housings, coilovers, wheel bearings, etc

Well I know AZC is working on it, damn i hope it comes out soon, im sick of looking at my home grown(works though) setup, its ugly, its big and it sucks I want a nice, clean billet piece, and I hope AZC comes out with a good design that works, thats strong and that looks clean I WANT IT NOOOOOOW

damn someone sure as hell knows how to weld, very nice

if i were you i'd bolt it in for extra safety margin, especially since those welds dont look to be the strongest in the word

thats what im really hoping for, especialy when i finally get my passenger side spindle pin out, hahaa on a side note, i put all my stock suspension pieces that i will be reusing in my friends new parts washer, holy ♥♥♥♥ that thing is great, it stripped ALLL the paint, rust, grease, dirt off and the parts came out clean, bare metal, its awesome Control arms, strut housings, everything, so its gonna be cake to paint them I am painting them all anodized red and a bit of black here and there

Man this is a lot of work, but my new 33gal compressor and air tools make life much easier So everything on the car was done but the suspension was still haunting me, so i broke down and got to it I just finished stripping most of it off. Front removed strut, control arm, sway bar, t/c rods, steering tie rods, all bushings. Rear I am almost done but i cant get my passenger side spindle pin out, the drivers came right out, weird. Also i went to use a 27mm socket to get the axle nut off and it didnt fit, the nut is like a 32mm, making me think someone has done this before already, plus the axle spins very smoothly, makes me think someone already did bearings, damn and I just spend $140 on bearings I am swaping in a 280z stub axle, but getting the last few things off is a pita Also I ruined the threads on the driver side front strut housing axle, so now I need 1 new strut housing Parts going in: front already has 280zx hubs and AZC willwood brake kit Front--- 1" front sway bar ES end links ES bar mount TechnoToyTuning T/C rod Control arm bushings AZC bumpsteer spacer New ball joints New tie rods Ground control coilover 225lb Tokiko illuminas SPC camber bolt kit New upper strut bearings New wheel bearings Rear--- 280z stub axles New bearings Control arm bushings ground control coilovers 250lb Tokiko illuminas Disk brake conversion So I almost got all the parts off. Ruined 2 spindle pins and 1 strut housing in the process though. Damn I cant wait to get this thing up and runing, especially since before all the bushings were shot, shocks were blown, bearings were old, etc....the car should feel much better I hope

oh man i cant wait till they come out with a nice billet piece, so i can get rid of my jerry rigged setup that is just buggin the ♥♥♥♥ out of me

i just realized i actually had those in my car and didnt even know, i thought it was stock, cool, lol

I got a guy who I just bought a rear full conversion kit for disk brakes for the back of my 240z It comes with 11" 300zx rotors, drilled or plain, solid rotors. Maxima caliper, rebuilt. Steel custom bracket Retains stock hand brake Brake lines hardware If you guys are interested, he may be able to do it for as low as $450 shipped if a few people are interested Thats a cheaper alternative to some of what we have available I almost went with the willwood rear disk brake kit, even though at $800 is a great deal, I think its just overkill for the back of the Z, I have the azc front willwood kit and I love it, but i just didnt want to spend as much on the rear I think this is a good compromise and should compliment the front brakes well. All you need are pads.

wow thats great power for those flow numbers, the guy who does heads here locally who is really popular with the street scene does lt1 heads to about 270 at 600 lift and 201 exhaust Im hoping with this cam, those heads and some intake work, i can squeeze off a healthy 400-420whp all motor on my lt1

hmmm...i guess ill order some cv stops from ross for the outside, hopefully it wont poke a whole through the inside cv so did we figure out that the moser halfshafts are ok length? I think someone took the spring out and moved the control arm through its full range and said that the halfshaft still had room to move around, so its not being FORCED out? Which halfshaft was this test performed on? I am weary of the moser halfshafts from ross being the same length, when the diff isnt centered...seems like they should be slightly different lengths

so then all that will happen is the halfhaft and cage will just bottom out on this cap and not be able to go through? My worry isnt that its simply walking out, but that is has now here to go because its bottomed out, or is there still plenty of room to move? Do you know what i mean? Like at a certain control arm angle where it brings both cv housings closest together, is the halfshaft just too long and it crashed them together, forcing the halfshaft to push through? At this point, even if the endcap is strong enough, it would cause either a bind in the suspension travel, a broken or bent halfshaft, or other bad things

also is the problem just the halfshaft walking out? Or is it being forced out because it has no more room to travel under compression where the halfshaft is at its closest points to the outsides of both cv's? Meaning does it just bottom out and push out or is it just walking(with room to move though) If it still has room, a stop would work, but if its being forced out because it has no where left to move, then there is a bigger problem, and the halfshaft needs to be shorter Stil, why is the moser halfshafts equal length, and speedway halfshafts different lengths?