nazar

i did search and al the diagrams show the harness for all the lights and interior, but nothing shows where it all gets it power from at the battery? I have my starter on my lt1 wired to the battery as well as my ecu, now the ecu needs to be wired to the ignition source and the rest of the car needs power....lol...this may be a simple question but im stumped

Im wiring in my lt1 ecu right now and thats the easy part since its all labeled thanks to the mod work I had done to it. But when i stripped my engine bay i took a bunch of wiring out and cut some that I thought were uneccessary. Now I dont know where to send power to from the battery + I know 1 goes to the starter, 1 to the lt1 ecu, but what about running all the factory Z stuff? Headlights, turnsignals, switches, etc...I dont know where the factory power wire is that went to the battery for power to the fuse box in my dash(71 240z) Any help? I am done wiring in the ecu to the engine, and now working on wiring the leads from the ecu to the pump, the fan and then finally the ignition so that I can start the car from inside with the key. But cant figure out where all the factory datsun stuff gets its power from??? Frustrated I guess i just need to find the wire that feeds power to the fuse box? I assume that distributes power to most of the things I am needing to power up

correct me if im wrong but if i use the stock feed, wouldnt it be submersed anyways? I would think the feed would pick up at the bottom of the tank somewhere? Anyone else? Right now i have it routed to the sump, but not sure if thats ok? I remember reading some people saying their's works fine

desktop dynos lie, dont get too excited

My sump has 2 fitings, -6an. Can I use 1 for the fuel feed and 1 for the return? I have read up on this and some say yes some say no. I am running an lt1 with a walbro 255 external pump. Will running it back into the sump have too much resistance on the fuel flow back from the regulator?

the fitting is $50 but at least it works so the replacement aluminum t5 slave from autozone WILL work on a t56? The fitting is on the side but it should still work. I think i will just drill and tap it since its metal and not plastic, that mcleod fitting is $50!!

i thought al t5 slaves fit t56? If this is a factory replacement for a t5 slave, why would it not work on a t56? And if not, can i buy a replacement t56 slave and will the mcleod fitting fit it as well?

ok guys, here is some things i found out I went to autozone and bought a slave cylinder, part # 10380 which is not made of metal instead of plastic, its for the t5 tranny with the bleeder screw and i assume it will fit my t56 I was going to drill and tap it but reading my jtr book, there is now a page that shows a Mcleod fitting # 139026 which is a male roll pin end to a an4 thread. This plugs right into the slave GM style and hte other end is a 4an thread. was this not available before??? This way you can throw a braided line on there, no need to tap or drill anything, and you can use a t5 metal slave from autozone now instead of plastic

Which hoses should I get to fit my lt1 water pump and jtr radiator kit? I'd like to get prebent rubber hoses for a cleaner look.

ther rear only fit because i have washers on there. Once my coilovers go on, they will fit this being a 9.5" wheel, They still cut about 1" or so in the back, maybe 1.5" I think thats the most you can go on a ZG flare, and I had 5" backspacing Less backspacing would give you more lip, but it would push the wheel further out, this week for a 9.5" has a pretty big lip.

www.arizonazcar.com I do believe he said they will clear most 16's, 17's for sure. They are 12.2 and you usually want to add about 3" to your brake size to figure out wheel size. meaning 16's will fit. for that kit however, you need 260/280 front hubs, which I ordered through all Z speacialists in texas, along with 280 rear stub axles

now that im broke, nothin, lol, stock drums till i get enough money, then just a basic oe disk swap, rear brakes I never worry much about, i bias it all to the front, lol...Hopefully those 255's up front will give enough traction to keep those brakes from locking up left and right I think they wiill work out very well and look sweet. Ive always been a brake fan, its just as important as power

I keep hearing some people actually saying this is alot of money, when I saw the whole kit was $750, I made the call and ordered them Most 4 piston, 2 piece big brake kits this thick and complete for other cars wiill run you around $1400-1500, for the money, this kit is awesome and I love how its 1.25" thick, that is what helps with heat disipation, and the big 4 piston willwoods are awesome This should also reduce my unsprung weight up front, im sure this setup weighs less then stock, I wonder how much less? cant wait, should fill up my new 17x9.5" really well:mrgreen:

yeah, they are nice The front I MAY be able to roll, the rear no way, they stick out about 1.5" or so

ok maybe its closer to 1" or so in the front, im sure the zg's will be more than enough to cover it up

that what ill end up doing, i was going to get a bigger tire, but i cant go any more diameter as it already rubs slightly on the front bumper on 1 side, which is weird, maybe i should throw it on a frame machine and see if i need to straighten the car out a bit, lol also, it all depends on the backspacing, not the width only, if i got a 6" backspacing, it would have fit into the fender, I got 5" backspacing, which is pretty deep and that brings the rim in, most people go with 4.5 or 4.75 I should have done 4.75, but oh well, i did fairly good for my calculations

right now the wheels clear, the tires in the back rub a bit on one side, less on the other side, i just threw in some washers for now to get it rolling. With no washers though the rear tire sticks out about 1.5" past the fender at most, the front is very close to fititng but thats because of the 255 width, probably sticks out about .5 inches, im worried about the zg flares covering too much in the front and making a gap, can you trip the zg's to bring them closer in? I dont need much in the front The front tires dont rub at all, but they DO rub a bit when you turn the wheel on the front left bumper, no biggie, just a bit of trimmming, plus the car is lowered about 2" with some uknown springs I love the look in person, it just looks killer like it wants to jump at you, i am very pleased:mrgreen:

keep in mind guys, the wheels are now $300 a pop, I totally got lucky:mrgreen:

K guys 17x9.5 all around, 5" bs 275/40/17 rear, 255/40/17 front, glad i went a bit smaller in the front, they already big diameter and the front fender needs a bit of trimming, but they look tits In person even better