boardkid280z

Hey! You may have gotten this resolved by now, but we had a similar problem with my car (similar setup). In the window "Spark Settings" there is a setting for "Spark Output Inverted" I think the default is YES and that's what we thought was correct. BUT we could not get the thing to run after setting it up with ford 36-2 wheel and sensor and individual coils. We changed the Spark Output Inverted from YES to NO and that is what was wrong. So you might try that. Again for our Ford crank timing and individual coil setup we needed to set the Spark Output Inverted setting to NO. And it is running great now!

Hey Christopher, sorry I missed your message. I just sent you an email.

I ran with option "D" for a long time and just put a filter on the catch can top. Just emptied the catch can once a year or so. Instead of the filter you can run that to the turbo intake if you want.

I was just playing around plotting (estimated) L28 air flow on T04E compressor maps 50 trim - 46lb/min (up to 420hp) 54 trim - 44lb/min (up to 400hp) 57 trim - 50lb/min (up to 460hp) The Ebay turbo that I got doesn't seem to have any compressor maps available, I just figured one of these would be close to the 55 trim Ebay turbo.

Hey everyone, so I did a thing. I just ordered one of these turbos on Ebay over the weekend when there was a 15% discount. So it was normally $118. The turbo is a knock-off / no-name /copy sold by "racingpartswarehouse". Delivery expected by Jan 8th, so I'm pretty sure it's shipping from the US. (CA according to Ebay) I've just got a stock 280ZXT turbo on my motor right now, so this will be a good upgrade and hopefully run a long time I'll make sure and report back once I get it and once I get it installed and running. Plan on running up to 15psi for now. I think that's about where I'll start maxing out my 440cc injectors, hoping for a decent 300-350hp or so. The specs look really good size-wise to match up with an L28. Not too small and not crazy big either. Comparable to other T3/T04s or a GT30 sized turbo with 76mm compressor exducer. I've got my fingers crossed that it all looks and works fine. I'll be verifying the specs and inspecting everything when I receive it. Any suggestions on specific things to look for? Here are the specs as listed: T3/T04E (Journal Bearing / Oil Cooled / Internal Wastegate / V-band exhaust) Compressor Inducer: 50.5mm Exducer: 76mm Trim: 55 A/R: 0.5 Turbine Inducer: 65.5mm Exducer: 55.9mm Trim: 73 A/R: 0.63

Thanks for the help everyone. The operation was a success. If I think of it I'll try to compile a list of what tools I actually used. That would probably be pretty good to add to the first post here. To be honest, the basic 10, 12, 13 and 14 mm were the big ones. I used a 17mm deep well on the exhaust. but it didn't come loose. Used a pry bar quite a bit and a big adjustable wrench for AC lines and oil cooler. I did have an impact gun and that was really nice to zip some of the bolts out quickly. Hacksaw would have been good if I had more than 1 blade. Ended up using a sawzall. Of course, Philips and Flat screw drivers, a good knife and a hammer. I started at about 9:15am and got it done at about 2:30pm - with about an hour in there of mostly waiting for my buddy to show up with a sawzall and his pickup truck. That darn exhaust would not come off. I had brought a hacksaw, but only had one blade, and it wasn't about to make it through.

Thanks! I've packed pretty much all my hand tools with doubles of most everything. Toolbox weighs at least 40lbs. Then I've got my Stanley tool set too. Didn't think about a hacksaw - I''ll grab one of those too. I don't have a small sledge, but I packed a hammer, rubber mallet and piece of wood, hopefully that will do. It's an auto transmission and I was really hoping just to pull the motor. Any suggestions on that?

Sorry if this info is easy to find, I did a search and I know I have seen lists of "tools you'll need" before in DIYs and Walkthroughs but could not find one for this specific procedure. I'm going to Pull-A-Part tomorrow to pull an L28ET and I'd like to bring everything I need.So, what ALL tools will I likely need to easily and successfully pull a motor at Pull-A-Part?Thanks for any suggestions or if you have a link to this info somewhere. Even a DIY or Walkthrough for pulling an S30 motor or doing a motor swap. Hopefully I can do it in one trip without kicking myself for something I forgot. I did find some info on another thread on zcar.com with this list of tools: - 10/12/14mm socket - 10/12/14mm open and boxed wrench - ratchet and extensions (short and real long one) - box cutter - pry bar - flat and phillip screw driver So is there anything else? Seems like a 15mm and 17mm would be necessary too.

A friend from the OKC Nissan/Datsun/Z club is selling this 240Z. It seems like a good project. If I bought it, I would fix every rust problem, paint it, and build it as if I would drive it for the rest of my life, probably transferring a lot of parts from my current car. My 280Z has quite a few rust problems and issues that I don't think it's worth doing all that work to. So, this is kind of what I've been thinking about. Anybody have any advice/comments?

Well, that's good to know. Hah, I don't know enough about these diffs. I thought I had an R200 in the car, and I thought I was getting an R200 to put in. How do you identify the R180?

I got the diff up in place, but it turns out the studs on the back are slightly closer together than on the S30 diff. (the new one is out of a truck) After looking at them, the rear covers are completely different too. So I'll just have to open up the mounting holes in the moustache bar a little bit.

I'm about to replace my worn out diff with this used one. Just checking the noises and wanted to see what people think. First I'm turning the input shaft and it makes a clicking sound. Second I turn one of the output shafts and there is a little bit of a grinding sound. Third I turn the ring gear and again you can hear the clicking. So it seems like the ring gear and pinion gear click when they hit. Is that normal? And the spider gears sound like they grind a bit. Is this normal? This is an R200 open 4.36 out of a Nissan truck (I'm told). It is going in my 1978 Datsun 280Z turbo.

I'm leaning heavily towards trying it out. Here's a video of the track, (only 1 of many configurations)

I don't have any issues with traction right now, at least not in a straight line. And I'm only running 205s at the moment, stretched on 15x8s (not my choice, I just got a good deal on wheels and tires when I needed new tires). I don't launch hard and I don't shift hard, and even when I roll hard into the throttle, I don't have any trouble keeping traction. Tony, I'm not sure i know anyone with wheels and tires that small.

Thanks guys, good thoughts. Sorry, I should have specified - my old diff is making noise, so I'm going to replace it. And my friend has a 4.36 that's in good shape. So that's why I'm considering this, since I have to swap it out anyway. I've been auto crossing for 5 or 6 years. The track I go to is pretty fast, it's more like a small road course (it's a sheriff's training track). I usually get well into 3rd gear.

My car is a daily driver that I like to auto X. Turbo 2.8, the power band starts at 3500 RPM. It has an 81 to 83 close ratio 5 speed, so 5th gear is 0.745. I've calculated that my engine RPM at 75 miles per hour would go from 2880 to 3540. That is on my current 23.1 inch tires, if I go back to bigger tires, the engine RPM would go down a little bit maybe 3350@75mph. Again, this is a daily driver. In my head this sounds doable. That is quite a few RPM at cruise, but it will put me closer to my power band so I don't think it will be in issue. I don't think it will bother me. But I don't know. What do you guys think? Q1 Is 4.36 too short for a daily driver? how annoying will it be? Q2 How much faster would my car be? Q3 How much would it help me at the autocross? Q4 Would you do it? Why or why not? Thanks, Brazle.

Yes, mounting a hybrid is easy. I would save your money on the ceramic coating, get it running and then look at which turbo you want.

Thanks! It is not stock, I have bigger injectors, an intercooler, and a Banks Sidewinder turbo. Also running Megasquirt and various other upgrades (brakes, suspension, just cheap and simple though).

Some fun in the Z.

I agree with the guys saying oil viscosity isn't an issue, unless you live in an extreme climate. But, I would make sure you use an oil that has a high enough zinc (ZDDP) content which is what older cars need. Metallurgies have changed, and newer cars have bearings, journals, cranks and cams that don't need zinc so oil manufacturers have drastically reduced the percentage of zinc in their oils, I think many have removed it completely. (lots of info out there about Zinc/ZDDP - like this) Our cars and many other older models especially with solid lifters/flat tappets seem to really need oils with higher zinc levels. I use Rotella 15W-40, it's a little thicker, but I live in Oklahama, so it's usually pretty hot here. I've got nothing against single weight though. I think most oils for diesel applications have higher zinc levels and most "special" oils that say they're performance/for racing or whatever have the zinc additives built in. [...] Hmm, well normally I would just recommend the Rotella since that's what I had always heard, but decided to do a little research to give you some other options. I knew Rotella had changed the formula in their 15W-40 to an updated CJ API rating vs the old CI. Turns out the 15W-40 has lower ppm than some would recommend, check out this thread: Zinc in oils Looks like 1200ppm is the minimum number to look for. And these are some of the oils they recommend. * SHELL ROTELLA SINGLE GRADE 30WT * CHEVRON DELO 400 LE 15W-40 (APPROVED BY MFG FOR GAS & DIESEL ENGINES) * CASTROL TRUCK & 4X4 SYN BLEND 15W-40 (NOT DIESEL OIL) * LUBRIPLATE GPO 15W-40 OIL (BUY ONLINE DIRECT FROM MFG) * PENNZOIL GT 25W-50 RACING OIL * VALVOLINE NSL/NOT STREET LEGAL 20W-50 (ORDER FROM NAPA/SUMMITT/JEGS) * ROYAL PURPLE FULL SYN 10W-30 * GM EOS (Engine Assembly Prelube) Or find an additive to use with any oil like: ZDDPlus

After thinking about it some more, I'm a little concerned the smaller gap and Iridium plugs would just be a band aid for a weak ignition system. I'm running Megasquirt Fuel and Spark. But it's been so long since I put it all in there, I can't remember exactly what ignition setup I am running. I'm pretty sure I have an MSD Blaster 2 coil, and the pick up coming off the turbo distributor (would that be '83 or 81-82? I can't remember). Anyway, if it worked for big-phil, I think I'll try it and if it works for me, then it works, right?

I have had this problem and whenever I check the fuses they all look okay, but when I pull out the one for the lights, it falls apart, like it melted inside the end cap and lost connection, but still looks fine in the middle.

Since I have a turbo I have been gapping my plugs between 0.025 and 0.030. I had an issue with top end power loss (felt like ignition cut-out) a while ago, and when I pulled my plugs they were all gapped around 0.040. When I re-gapped them to 0.025 the problem seemed to go away. I am running 8psi or so now, but have had it as high as 12 before. I turned it back down because I had this issue around 5500RPM. I watched big-phil's video a while ago about the time he swapped hot housings and still had the same problem and when he swapped his plugs to Iridiums it fixed it. Big Phil Iridium plug video My car is still acting very similar to his when I get to higher boost, so I thought these Iridium plugs might help. I went ahead and called O'Reilly and got the 3903s. After pulling my old plugs, they look okay, certainly not fouled, but I wanted to get a second opinion, before I put in the $$ Iridiums. Also, if I'm going to gap them below 0.030 anyway, should I have just put in those other plugs already set to 0.031? I've read about people filing down the ground electrode so it doesn't "cover up" the center electrode so much. So, I know the threads look oily, and the ground electrodes look white and the center electrode looks about the right color. I think this means my burn is pretty good. What do you guys see?