regggggggg

i’m interested in purchasing one if you still have these available

Much thanks to the OP for starting this. i made my own thread as well in the same board.

My 1972 Datsun 240Z was stolen on December 6, 2012. It was last seen in San Bruno, CA near San Francisco Airport. Keep your eyes peeled Norcal and contact San Bruno Police Department (650) 616-7100 or local 911 if you have any information leading to where the car is or who took it. Post any info on here as well if you have seen it. It is very hard to miss this car it has a huge exhaust that sticks out a foot past the bumper. License Plate # 2GAP983 Distinctive Parts to look for if you see them pop up on craigslist: 4x114 Silver Rota Shakotans Grip Royal Grain Steering Wheel Corbeau Forza seats RB20DET Motor w/ aftermarket intake manifold 280Z Air Dam (no front turn signals) Polished Fuel cell with steel braided lines that can be seen from behind Pretty slammed car I spent almost a whole entire year building this car from the ground up after buying it stock and as i finally got it running and ready for the road, it was taken from me. I never even got the chance to enjoy my creation. so with that being said, please please please help me find it.

Hello everyone! I just finished swapping an RB20DET motor into my '72 240Z and it is now running. The only problem is that I do not have a tach or temp gauge hooked up. The tach isn't a big issue right now, but i have no idea how hot my engine is running and i wanted to know if i would be able to hook up the stock coolant temp gauge on the z? I also have a wiring specialties harness that has outputs for those two signals but i don't know if they would work. If anyone has any ideas, please let me know. thanks!

Can anyone please tell me what fender mirrors are these ad possibly where to get them? THANKS!

1972 240Z motor with 5-speed transmission: http://sacramento.craigslist.org/pts/2710337908.html

So I've been checking around all the Z forums and I can't get a confirmation of this but... Will the stock RB20DET motor mounts work for this swap? Or will I need to make some modifications to it?

Would I be able to take the switch apart and fix it? or would I have to buy a new one?

While I was driving home earlier tonight, all my dash lights went out including my rear tail lights and side marker lights. I checked ALL the fuses. Nothing is blown. Rheostat was already bypassed so it can't me the source of the problem. Took a volt meter and ran it IN CIRCUIT between the battery and negative ground wire to check for AMP draw. Readings say its pulling 0.02 AMPS. I'll pull OUT the dash fuse and the reading drops to ZERO. The light switch normally used to turn ON/OFF the dash lights is not working because whether in the OFF or ON position it still draws 0.02 AMPS. Could the switch itself be the problem? OR... Could there just be a short before the switch? And if so, is there a certain way to find the source of the short?

Yep, thats me

I'm not sure if this is the right section for this but I was thinking about selling some decals showing love and support for Z's. I have one design down right now... Question is...would anyone be interested in buying any? Or does anyone have any other ideas for design? I can make custom ones as well.

It shouldn't be a problem. but of course you just would have a lot of wheel gap

Thanks. Don't get me wrong, I am satisfied but I've always loved the wider stance of the Z with the fender flares.

I have a 1972 240Z. Pretty much stock L24 but i do have 2.25 diameter exhaust piping running from the stock headers and with a Magnaflow muffler. Now be aware that I am pretty new to carbureted engines and I've been told that they do need warming up. But what boggles my mind is that I was at a meet today with another 240Z with pretty much same setup except he was able to just start his car and drive off with no problem. Whenever i try that, my car would struggle and sometimes the engine would die out. Even if i were to just rev my engine while the car is parked, it would make a pop sound and the engine would cut out for a moment but then continue to run. Once my car is at normal running temperature though, it would run perfectly fine. Is there something wrong? any input would help.

Awwwww. I wish I knew about these sooner