bryan01

thanks for the help, i just got it to fire. but it wont stay on. i realized i didnt have an eccs and ign relay plugged in, so i got some at the local parts stores and wired them up. when i hit ignition wire to power i heard both relays click on, but when i hit the starter to that, nothing happened. so i left the ign on power, and went under the car and jumped the starter. well it fired and scared me to death. all the dust that's collected under the car, and little bits of metal from welding etc etc all flew out of the garage and i thought my ear drumbs were goin to pop. it'll fire once or twice over every time i jump the starter but it wont keep going. any ideas? one of my friends helping on it says if i can figure out why i cant hot wire the car i will figure out how to start it. and keep it started.

i like how i'm replying to my own questions. anyways, i got it to crank/turn over, it's just not starting. one step away...more or less ... the first time it turned over i found an oil leak in the oil filter gasket, so i replaced that and it's ... cranking ... fine ...

now there's some usefull information. i didnt know a sensor went there. but yeah, i plugged it w/ a bolt. thanks for the info thou, once i get it running and driveable i'll look into puting a temp sensor there.

so i bought a rb25det w/ tranny and full harness, all accessories and sensors, and computer. it's currently mounted in the car, but i cant get it to turn over. i've gone thru the wiring sticky above but most of that is how to hook up gauges and the like. all i want to do is get it to turn over once before i move (december 10th). i called a shop to see if they could help out and they wouldnt touch it b/c i had removed the stock wiring from the z car. what does not having the dash wiring or the rear tail light wiring (even thou i think that's still in the car) have anything to do w/ starting the skyline motor? shouldnt the rb25 be able to turn over and run with only the rb25 wiring harness, sensors, and ecu? i found the main power, ign, and starter wires on the interior harness section via the wiring sticky. wiring them together how i thought it should go didnt work (i dont have the wiring coming off the ignition as of now so i couldnt wire it to the key like in the sticky) so i was just going to make it a switch and a button, but i cant even hot wire it ...? i've hardwired the pump to a switch but like i said the motor wont even turn over so it doesnt matter if it has fuel or not yet. i then tried jumping the starter directly and it sounded like it was spinning but not engauging the flywheel. just about everything on the harness is hooked up (except headlights etc and then the white dash plug on the interior). any ideas?

rb25det ... but it's ok, the m16 w/ a 1.5 mm pitch worked. that's a big ass bolt ...

well i just found a place (guy) with every bolt ever made in every length and pitch (more importantely m16, 1.5mm pitch, 35mm long), so i'll try it out tonight when i get home.

i know other people have had this problem, but i couldnt find it in a quick search. does anyone know the size to the return line hole that's in the rb20 oil pan's? i'm pretty sure it's an m16, and after searching locally for a while i found one that was much too long, but at this point i dont care, but it was still the wrong threading. the m16 i have looks pretty corse (i think the pitch is 2mm), is it just a fine (what would this pitch be?) m16? or is it some standard pipe thread size? where could i get ahold of a fine threaded m16? what does everyone else do w/ the hole that's in the pan since the rb25 drains to the block? weld over it? (which i almost did last night but didnt want to remove the oil pan.)

yes the tranny is in, everything is finally mounted. i'll send pics later, but we're going to try to start it up today. the harness is in. all i need to do is 1. plug the drain hole in the rb20 rear sump oil pan. anyone know the size of that bolt? is it pipe thread? metric? it looks almost like an m16. 2. put in fluids. how much? motor oil and tranny oil? where do i put in the tranny oil? (the car is outside obviously and i remember having a lot of trouble filling the 280z tranny last time w/ a squirt bottle and a hose ... is it the same type of operation for the rb25 tranny or is it any easier? can i fill it thru the shifter hole?) 3. run a fuel line. this is the easy part, i'm just going to run it to a little gas tank for now, i've got an inline pump. 4. figure out the wiring. it's all plugged in but i need to locate ignition, acc, starter, as well as my clutch electrical line question above. still no answer yet? i saw a wiring sticky that i'm going to go thru in a minute and i'm sure that will help.

i dont have my clutch system installed yet, but i was thinking about starting up the motor. does anyone know which wire, or how in general, so that i can override the "clutch has to be pushed in for the car to start" switch? or do i even have to worry about that? couldnt i just jump the starter? i'm almost done installing the harness so if i can figure this out by this afternoon it may be running. i'll do a search after this to look for a wiring harness diagram, but if anyone has one that isnt online it'd be really appreciated to take a look at THANKS

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?p=691558#post691558 pics of my motor in the car if you guys didnt check the other forum.

used the stock skyline engineside mounts, with the stock skyline isolators. when we test fitted it turned out the distance from the motor mounts and the shifter was just about the same as the stock 280, worked out really well. all we had to do was re-angle the carside motor mount towers (as seem by someone else on this board) and weld on plates to bolt to the isolators. took a day, but i still have to make the tranny mount, but again i have the skyline tranny side mount w/ skyline isolator so all i'm doing is making a plate to craddle it. looks like there's tons of room on the intake side b/c there's nothing there, where the exhaust side still has everything hooked up. http://plaza.ufl.edu/bryan01/day15s/ there's the link for the rest of the pics. the exhaust cleared the stearing perfectly too ... it's like nissan said "what are people going to do w/ his motor ... put it in old z cars ... lets help them out and make it the same dimentions" ...

thanks for the support. it definately looks like bedliner, not grease, when you see it in person. it's black, hard, and rough ... i didnt get it sprayed on there to look like paint. it is what it is if you want a smoother look, get the do it yourself one and roll it on. that's basically a thick paint. what i have was sprayed on at about 3000 psi and it a rubberized epoxy (bedliner). you just have to watch out w/ the diy stuff that you dont get air pockets. as far as heat, like i said, i asked around, asked the people who sprayed it in for me, and that's all i could do. not very many people have this done so i dont exactly know what to expect, but as stated before, i think it'll hold, but only time will tell, and i'll definately keep you guys updated. if i was restoring this car to factory specs, i would have different goals in mind. since i'm obviously not ... i have different goals in mind ... i'm not going to defend what i did or get into an argument here, thanks for your opinion but i'm not sorry (CarolinaZ) that i did what i did. do what you want on your car and be happy with it. true hybridz members: thanks again, i love this site, and i'll keep everyone updated ... right now the rb25 is mounted in the bay, i'll try to get some pics up later, i still have to make a transmission mount but it seems like i threw out the craddle when removing the old engine/tranny so i have to make it from scratch ... which may or may not be a problem ...

well i put the motor in this weekend to size/make the motor mounts, and we hit the sides a few time with it, and it didnt even leave a mark. i love it. as far as being too rough, i knew it was going to be rough, just dont rub your hands on it ... it's an engine coating, not a exterior coating. i got it to be durable, not pretty. but i think it looks awesome, so i'm more than happy with it. and as far as heat, i looked around and was told it wouldnt melt at engine temps, i'll find out when i turn on the motor, and i didnt want to do the hurculiner path because i know a few people who used that on their trucks and their beds still rusted w/in about 6 months. one person said it was due to air pockets.

you COULD use it to hide rust, but why? but you could also use paint the same way, just wouldnt look as good for as long. i (and i'd hope everyone else here) wouldnt screw over another datsun owner like that:cuss: (if the car is ever sold) and reguardless, i definately know i'm going to need the structure there for the amount of power its going to put out. i see that as a waste of time and money. i spent hours and hours cutting out all the rust i could find (via visual inspection and the hammer/chizzel approach) and replacing it with good metal, then sanding down all the surface rust before the coating went on. the areas that havent been coated yet got several coats of paint just so they wouldnt flash rust. the inner fender well from that pic above has been sanded/painted since that pic. also, after my sanding of the surface rust that was left in a few areas, the prep work for the liner includes sand blasting and then sanding with a brush inorder for the liner to stick. they sanded down everything and told me before they put it on that if the metal was in bad condition they wouldnt spray it b/c that would void the warrantee and just be bad business practice and the liner wouldnt stick to it (i personally think the liner would stick to anything, but whatever floats their boat, i'm not going to complain with them doing more prep) ... but as for your question, it's guarnteed for "the life of my truck"

it's a hammer.

for those of you who didnt see, here's a pic from the inside, and then from the inside of the wheel well. this was a 400$ experiment. i didnt want them doing the wheel wells and the underside etc and spending that much more $ if i didnt like it there. you can see in the 2nd pic where i cut into the frame rail and cleaned it out. it was supprisingly clean inside. i welded it from the inside to the new firewall, and then welded it shut. i know the welds arent the cleanest, but it works, and after the coating, i'm more than happy with the result.

there was rust everywhere in that corner, so i cut it out and bought a right front clip from a clean 280z. i cut out around the battery tray and kept the top and outer part of the frame rail from the donor part. i cut out everything except the frame rail on mine, and then cut into the frame rail on the outer side, cleand it out, and boxed it in against the new firewall. if you're wondering, the frame rail wasnt attached to much. it was attached on the inside wall, and a little bit on the top, only so i'd have something to weld to. below the frame rail, i guess you'd call it the subframe connector, which isnt connected to the under-the-floor rails anymore (i replaced the floors too, and deemed the rails that came w/ the floors not strong enough to waste time connecting) had a small amt of rust on the end on the inside (the side i didnt box in with new metal). i didnt expect them to spray that low, but they did. i'll have to cut about 2" above the end to get rid of that section. it's not connected so it doesnt really matter. once i put my roll cage in (more towards the end of the year) i will decide if i want new floor rails etc etc. and also at that point they're going to take my car back in and line the under side, the wheel wells, and the inside of the floor pans/rear ... it'll look nice and it's definately not photoshopped ... check out the other pics i have linked too. it's a really freakin thick coat of bedliner. i recommend ANYONE who's got some extra $ in their build budget to get this done. it's a great coating and definately wont rust (from the coating side at least) ...

dropped the car off at a shop, they did the prep work, and delivered the car back to my garage for 400$ even. i think it looks amazing. here's a before/after shot (after welding/rust repair) and a link to all the other pics of the new engine coat. they taped up all the heads of the bolts which i left in and i can pull them right now with a small amt of effort, and the holes int he firewall just pop out. http://plaza.ufl.edu/bryan01/day13/ ^ those are all the other pics i took of the new engine bay ... now i just have to get my headgasket in and i can start on the motor.

yeah if anyone wants the rear 1/2 of the driver side, they can have it. i think it's the same design as zedd's, but i didnt get them from him, it was cheaper for me to order them in the US. from what i rememer they were 16 ga. and i have no idea what kind of wheels they are, they were on it when i bought it. and no a/c? i am in florida remember. but if for some reason something blows up and i decide not to use the a/c, you can have the lines.

car before i started working on it bike after i fixed it thats all i got, i mean i have some bad pics of the car when i was cutting out the floor etc, but they're just depressing to look at ... background: i'm a mechanical engineer from florida w/ some spare time after work. i'm borrowing my friends welder to weld the floors in, the passenger side is done, and i drilled the seat rails for a corbeau forza seat which was gifted to me. the only problem is now i have to go out and spend some $$ to get a matching one for the driver side. the driver side is just being patched up by the pedel area. the rest of that side is fine, just needs a good cleaning. we're pulling the motor this weekend (if anyone is in gainesville, florida and wants to check it out, email me). once that's done i have a right-front-clip-frame-innerfenderwell section from a 280z that i'm going to cut and weld in b/c there's a nice hole where the battery tray is on mine. that will take care of 95% of the rust, and i'm happy w/ that. meanwhile i'll be building the motor, i'm sure i'llh ave some questions along the way. i got the car for 1500$, and then the full rb25det motorset/tranny/electronics including the EVERYTHING, as well as the rear lsd, full drive shaft, and rear axles for 2800$ shipped. i sitll have to get the motor parts i'm going to replace, but i think it's comin along ... ps this board is great.

pics first: (there she is ... hiding in shame) there's the new floor and seat supports, passenger side another pic of the new floor another shot, bottom, passenger side r32 rear diff tranny, full axle, and half shafts last but not least, rb25det ... mmm another shot last shot ... yeah, got carried away, but i know you love pics. hi.