bryan01

i put this in the rb forum too, but nobody there seems to have a squirt and i cant find anyone online who's set one up on a rb yet so it's kindof bugging me. i'm sooooo close, it almost caughed to life tonight, but didnt. anyways, all my sensors are reading correctly, tps, clt, ait, map, o2 ... but rpm says 0 all the time. i dont think i've got it hooked up to the correct wire. i looked at a pinout of my ecu, found the "tach signal wire" and tried that, didnt work. i came on here and found someone saying it was a different wire, tried that, same results ... then people are saying i need to hook it up to the negative side of the coil ... the rb has coil on plugs, so i've got 6 coils ... how do i do that? i saw below about how to wire up an edis with multiple coils w/ resistors etc, is that how i am supposed to wire this up to get a signal? help

where is it? i'm wiring my megasquirt and i need an rpm signal wire. i wired the squirt up to what i thought was the rpm wire and everything else seems to be working but when i try to crank it it stay's at 0 rpm even thou it's cranking. i've got an ecu pinout and i tapped into the wire i thought was the tach signal, but nothing happened. i then came on here and checked and tapped a wire off the white interior plug that someone said was the tach wire, same result. i saw from a few posts that the autometer tach's tap off of a wire in the engine bay, does this wire corralate directly to rpm? help

thanks, it's taken a LONG time to do this conversion. i work a lot and havent had the time i needed. and all the body mods that had to be done before i could even think about putting the engine in. i'll be trying to get it idling w/ the megasquirt over the next few days and i'll post when i figure something out. haha ... a challenge has been made! ... come on out. i'll be riding on saturday and sunday, me and a 12r ... and you're going to have to give me a ride with your new setup ... give me a call this weekend

here are the pics of my jgy rail/delphi injectors install on my rb25. it's got a x02 "greddy" intake plenum as you can see the body of the injector doesnt seat completely into the outer most hole but the oring is really tight to the smaller secondary hole in the manifold. it's not "in" the cavity of that hole thou, i couldnt push them in far enough. they are in enough however to be able to stand up on their own w/o the rail thou, and then when i tightened down the rail they got tighter, so i think it'll work but cant be sure until she's running. even if i were to push the injectors into the cavity of the 2nd hole, the second hole isnt deep enough for me to stop pushing intime to prevent the oring from ending up completely on the other side of the hole. i dont know which is worse. either way, i just got my injector connectors today so i'm going to try to setup to the megasquirt tonight and see if she idles. i'll report back if they're sealed enough to hold the pressure.

i've got the jgy rail and those exact injectors (the ones on the left) on my rb25 ... i just installed them the other night and they fit. if you look at my post "pics of some progress" a little down the page i had an injector fitment question similar to yours. there definately is no gap between the injector oring and the inner injector hole with mine. i only used 2 out of the 5 tabs thou. i tried to use all 5 at first and they didnt line up correctly. i could eitehr install the bottom 3 or the top 2, but not both sets. the bottom 3 put the rail too far from the manifold for the injectors to touch (maybe this is what you did) but when i mounted them with the top 2 mounts (the 2 smaller mounting brackets bolted into the 2 upper mounting holes) the injectors are pushed as far into the holes as they will go. if you look at my post you'll see the question i have about that thou. i havent started the car so i dont know yet if they're seated well enough. i can take pics tonight and post them though when i get home from work in a few hours.

also the fmic is now mounted, as well as the throttle cable. i'll post pics of that later. and if anyone wants to see pics of the bike, click the link above ... i just washed her ... current engine mods: rb25 s1 xo2 "greddy" intake plenum racetronix 65# low-z delphi injectors jgy fuel rail q45 90mm tb 3" alum piping xspower fmic (24x12x4) xspower "tial" bov and i've got a working ms1 w/ flyback for the fuel. i'm still playing w/ it on my stim board inside until i get the harness and can connect the injectors. i do have one question thou ... when installing the injectors, they're not exactly shaped as the stock ones, and didnt fit into the plenum as well as i thought. the plenum is drilled with different diameters holes per injector, getting progressively smaller from the outside. i thought the injector orings were going to "pop" in to the last hole like they did into the fuel rail, but they can't. i could not push them in so i ended up just bolting up the rail and tightening it down. with getting the "cheaper" fuel rail and manifold i was just happy they all lightned up. right now the injector's oring's are really tight to the last hole, tight enough that they'll hold themselves up w/o the rail, but they're not "in" the last hole. the last hole wasnt very deep either, so if i had pushed the injectors into it the oring would actually be sitting on the inside of the hole, not inside the hole's shaft like they do on the fuelrail side. (if that makes any sence) anyways, they're in there pretty tight and i'm going to try it out. if it spits fuel out then it obviously cant hold the pressure and i'll have to remove the intake plenum and drill out the holes ever so slightly so that the injectors will fall in. any ideas?

since i took these pics i have installed the fuel rail/injectors and all the vac lines are connected. i'm just waiting for some injector clips so that i can make a harness to connect to my megasquirt before i can install that. and i know there's a spot or 2 of rust up near the front ... remember it's a work in progress. http://plaza.ufl.edu/bryan01/

currently the ignition is stock. i dont konw if you saw the dates of those posts, but i only just got my MS and parts in this week. i got the MS working on the stim board last night, which was pretty fun. i can watch the pulse width and duty cycle in real time as i sit there and adjust the potientometers for the various inputs. i'm going to test it out more tonite and plan to have it on the car tomorrow or saturday. it's a stock rb25 except for the intake and fuel system. i had it running/idleing a few weeks ago, and then started changing out parts. only bad part is that my stock hood hinges dont clear my 3" intake pipes so i had to take them off ... i'll have to use hood pins or something ... everything else fits thou ...

you can buy a harness for 45$, and all the sensors, and it prebuilt ... if you read thru all the how to's on www.megasquirt.info it helps a lot, even if you're not building your own, and the tuning seems pretty straight forward, but i'll let you know when i'm doing it

this is quoted from eikon from the nico board, i dont know him personally but he's got like 3000 posts, as long as they're not all in the postwhore section i think he's believeable ... and it was confirmed by others on that board ... and i know that the rb25 info below is correct, so i'd believe that the other info is as well ... "" beleive this info is correct: (**Edit - info reviewed and corrected by Gawdzilla) RB20det = Top feed high impedance injectors. Stock is 270cc. Each injector will pass on about 10 ohms. Each is wired in parallel so that the total return to the ECU is ~10 ohms. RB25det = Side feed high impedance injectors. Stock is 370cc. Each injector will pass on about 10 ohms. Each is wired in parellel so that the total signal return to the ECU is ~ 10 ohms. RB26dett = Top feed Low impedance injectors. Stock is 440cc. Each injector will pass on about ~ 2 ohms. Each injector is wired in parallel to the ECU but in Series with a resistor. That resistor passes on about 7-8 ohms. The two signals add up to ~ 10 ohms returned to make the ECU happy. Modified by Eikon at 7:55 AM 9/21/2005

how about a megasquirt? i picked up mine for less than 300$ with extras (w/ some sensors and harness and cords). if you're taking a fuel/ignition class (is it just a one time class or is it thru a school, like 6 weeks long or something?) it might be a good way to go. i've seen a post or 2 by you about megasquirts, so i know you know it's there. i just got one from a friend, ms1 v2.2 with 18x18 ve tables (it's the newest update of the firmware). mine is setup with the normal board and a flyback daughter board for low-z injectors. i've got 65# injectors and a jgy fuel rail on it's way. a walbro 255 hp is already on the car ... i'm waiting for my stim board to arrive along w/ the wideband too. in about a week i'll have it setup on the stim board testing it. if it works out well there i'll put it on the car and be tuning. i have the ability to add spark control later down the line if i want at this point my goals are to get the car running again and go from there. i had my stock rb25 running a few weeks ago before i changed the intake plenum and added a huge fmic. if you have questions about setup/tuning i'll be doing it at the same time along with you and we can help each other thru it ... and there are boards that have thousands of answerd questions on them reguarding every topic.

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=120737&highlight=rb25+cost you're going to get burned for not using the search. my swap has cost about that much and i've done all the work myself over the last 6 months. so i'd say it's a good deal if you're just looking to buy a already swaped car.

i know i'm answering some of my own questions, but here's some info i found: http://www.rceng.com/technical.htm http://z31.com/software/injector.pl http://www.racetronix.com/ on racetronix they sell (6) 55#(577cc) or 65#(682cc) injectors for 330$/set and other guys on here said they're using them and work well. according to the z31 calculator, backed up by the rc formulas, using .65 bsfc and 80% duty cycle, 55#'s are good for 407 crank hp and 65#'s are good for 478 crank hp. of course these hp #'s change when you assume different initial values, but those were average #'s to start with according to the references to get a ballpark injector size. (this also assumes you're not playing around with fuel pressure and that the injectors are delivering what they're designed to deliver) i think i'm going to go with the 65# ones to give me some room to grow. ZUL8R on the board dyno'd at 300rwhp w/ 555's and a t3t4 turbo at 15psi. assuming a 20% loss thats 380hp at the crank with a mildly modded rb25. anymore than that and you're pushing the 55#'s (either above 80% cycles or more pressure than they're designed to flow per pulse). and then you have the 75#'s, but they just seem to be overkill for what i'm doing at this point. just to make sure, do i need to do anything special considering they're low impediance (2 ohm) injectors? whats stock, low or high? ... also do i need a top fed fuel rail for these? thanks for the hlp [url=http://www.racetronix.com/][/url]

i pulled off my stock fuel rail and injectors to transfer them from the old plenum to the new plenum and found something a little frightening. the, what looks like, ceramic sheath that's surrounds each injector tip and hooks over the end as if to hold it in place was broken off in one way or another on most of them. one of them broke off as i removed it. Does this piece of the injector actually have a purpose? b/c i dont think it holds anything in place, the injectors are 1 piece and are bolted down, and it doesnt seem to affect fuel flow. is it just meant to insulate the tips from the plenum? of course i was very worried about having ran the car with these injectors. at first i thought i had broken off the sparkplug-looking-arc-hook-tips of the sheath the last time i removed the intake plenum, which would have been very bad since i then reinstalled it and ran it. i mean what if i had cracked one and it fell off during the 10 mins i had it running? not good. but the injectors dont stick out at all from the plenum so i couldnt have broken them. i felt a little better knowing whatever damage was done was done before i got the motor. (right?, this is the point that you reassure me) hopefully it was done with the injectors out of the engine and the little ceramic pieces didnt end up inside the motor. at least it's not metal thou. either way, i'm very concerend with putting them back in, even if i removed the sheath's so they wouldnt break further. i found some injector size calculators and such and was wondering what other people were running. the injector calculators need a stock fuel rail pressure number as one of the values. anyone know this for the rb25 series 1? as of now the motor is stock an has a huge fmic and exhaust. i didnt plan on modifiying it before getting it completley running stock, but looks like i might have to. my friend has a megasquirt i could use to control the bigger injectors, but i need advise on what size to get. i checked and people are running anywhere from 550cc to 800. any thoughts?

here's 2 pics of the dipstick in the stock front location on the rb25det series 1 and then 3 pics of the rear location (i think?) am i correct that it's that lighter recessed spot just rear/lower than the oil filter? sorry about the size, i just uploaded them from the camera. just to clearify, i was able to pull my dipstick out from the front location. next i need to remove the oil pan, use hammer/punch and knock the plug from the outside in, down into where the pan would be. then knock the plug into the front side from the underside up (or from the outside down since i removed my dipstick casing already?)? thanks for the help, i'll be working on this later tonight hopefully. btw i'm ording a new intake plenum asap b/c i'm just never going to reinstall the stock one ever again. it took FOREVER to remove and i had even done it before.

i wouldnt have been able to get my car running w/o chris's how-to and everyone should be able to get their rb running (from an electrical standpoint) from chris' posts in this thread ... thank you very much. i've got a RB wiring comment/question i thought would go well in this sticky. i got into it a little bit with chris with this when i was doing my wiring for my instal but could never figure it out. maybe i'm just ignorant of this, but why do people use ANY wiring from their 30 yr old z when it comes to the powering of their rb motor? example, why would you wire the alternator using the z harness and have to go thru the voltage reg. deletion how-to when you can just use the skyline wiring the way it came? (assuming you get a wiring harness with your engine of course). another example is the tranny wires in chris' how-to. why would you use the Z tranny's wiring when you have the rb's?. right now my engine is running and starts via some toggles and button inside. i think part of it may have to do with the gauges, but that still doesnt explain the Z to RB alternator wiring. assuming you were using aftermarket gauges and didnt need the Z sending units installed and wired in to the RB wiring, the RB should start and run under it's own power. you dont need anything from the Z to make it work and this is how i installed my engine. it was the same as if i had wired the motor up on the pallet it came on and started it up. i just think it's easier to rip out all the wiring and start from nothing "Z" and just use everything that the RB needs and was designed to use from the beginning. the only thing i'm going to or have spliced into my RB harness are signals to the gauges. i followed most of chris's great how-to to get it running but all i did was provide power to the relays (fuel/eccs/fuel pump/ing), hook up the main power to a battery, and ground things that needed grounding. i take that back, i did cut into 1 wire, the starter power wire, at the starter b/c i didnt know where that wire ran to inside the car. other than that i didnt do anything from the alternator reg deletion or the tranny harness part or anything like that, just used the RB wiring. ??

i was going to start a new thread for an update, but i'm not really that cool, so i'll use this pic post.... http://plaza.ufl.edu/bryan01 got the 2nd seat mounted; fuel pump installed; moved wiring to inside the car (still works); ordered new master cylinders (brake and clutch) and some ss brake lines (the pic of that area is of the old ones still installed); i had to run new hard brake lines thru the entire car, which is done; i need gauges, a dash (i've got my old one), fluids bled, a throttle cable, a gas pedal, an fmic/piping (intake plenum too if i want to reroute the piping) and it should be somewhat driveable. i've got a leak by the oil filter and i think i may have something leaking from between the tranny and the motor? (i'm not sure about this b/c i dont exactly know where it's coming from, it could be the same leak by the oil filter; i also could have overfilled the tranny, could it leak from this area?) ... either way it's not too pressing at the moment, next time i run it i'll try to find exactly where the 2nd leak is coming from and ask then.

it's a lot cleaner than that now, just havnet had time to upload anymore pics. it's almost driving around. i still need a new welder to finish some ... welding, and a fmic/piping and it'll be good to go.

there's an individual coil on every plug.

yeah i thought i'd let everyone know i solved the problem so people werent trying to figure it out in vain. i actually read a post a few mins ago about chris' starting issues about the idle switch that apparently you dont even need connected; which is different than the throttle sensor which you do need connected. to be more specific it was the huge vac line on the back (near the firewall) of the upper intake plenum. i dont have an exhaust on the car yet so it was hard to hear, but i felt a huge gush of air everytime i hit the throttle ... woops ...

so i fixed it. massive vacume leak from below the manifold.

my car's got a REALLY rough idle, it will barely hold idle without me giving it some throttle. i see 2 plugs on my throttle boddie, one is the TPS and one's the throttle switch (sensing full and idle positions only). my throttle switch wires were cut right at the plug so the sensor side and harness side of the plug are there and plugged in, just no wires. i cant find any cut wires on my harness and after looking at a wiring digram i traced the throttle switch back to the white plug inside the car, that doesnt connect to anything. it doesnt go back to the computer (unless there are interconnections within the white plug on the harness side itself) or anywhere. i'm looking at a pic of someone else's throttle boddie and it looks like both sensors are connected in the same area. is this true? can someone post a close up pic of their throttle boddie (stock intake plenum if possible) and describe where on the harness the wires connect to the TPS and throttle switch. i should be able to see the cut wires to this one plug, but maybe they were taped up (i havent untaped this portion of the engine harness)

It's F'n Running!!!! Thank You Everyone, Especially Chris Rummel!

yes if i ground the fuel pump myself and wire it directly to the battery and turn the switch ON the pump will turn on. when i use the switched ground black/pink wire that is supposed to switch on the pump by grounding it when the ignition is on (instead of using a realy i just put a switch inline of the ground like i did when i wired it directly to the battery), however, it doens't work. i'm going back over the alternator hook ups tonight. does the interior start wire (grey/red) go thru the ecu to the alternator and then to the starter or does it go directly to the starter from the ecu? i might have mixed up my alternator connections ... but that wouldnt exactly expain (i dont think) why the fuel pump wont turn on when i use the actual fuel pump switched ground wire to the ecu. i'm sooooo close i can smell it. thanks again for everyone's help so far, this board is awesome

i checked the ignition and it's good. i actually ended up rewiring everything i had already done just to check my connections. one interesting fact though, i previously had my fuel pump wired independently from the computer, but decided that maybe the ecu wouldnt let the car run w/o knowing there was a fuel pump hooked up. when i jump the starter with the ignition on it sounds like it starts then something cuts it off. anyways, i hooked up the switched ground like in the wiring guide that goes from the ecu to the fuel pump (black/pink) which is supposed to turn the pump on when the ignition is on, but it wont turn on the pump. maybe i'm missing a ground on the other side of the ecu?