bryan01

it idles fine, but i'm afraid i'll have an incorrect map reading when i start driving around and tuning. i think we just need a certain file that's supposed to come w/ the megatune software, but i can't find it. i tried posting on the ms forums but my account was inactive ... so i'll try that again later

i'd get a stim board to test it out first. and if you have a single coil setup it's a lot easier for you to get a tach signal than i. i had to make a circuit to read 6 coils ... but yeah, it sounds like you have it hooked up correctly as far as that goes. i'd test the megasquirt and go from there.

did you test it out on a stim board? if so did it work on that? have you checked your RPM signal? i had a problem w/ that when i started, see my posts below. w/o a good rpm signal it wont squirt fuel.

ms1 v2.2 v26 msextra at idle my car is reading 38 kpa. barometric reading is 94. thats a HUGE vacuum (double) over what it should be at idle. i found this in the megasquirt info files If the MAP sensor reads too low or too high by a factor of 2, you can check that your MegaSquirt MAP sensor is reading too low, but responds to vacuum and pressure, then you have the wrong ".inc" files in your MegaTune folder. Copy the files (you need are "kpafactor.inc" and "barofactor.inc") from the "Turbo" sub-folder into your MegaTune folder, and everything should work. Place the correct files in your MegaTune directory (for older versions), or in the mtCfg folder (if it exists). (The "turbo" files refer to the ability of the MPX4250 MAP sensor to sense boost, not to the actual configuration of the engine.) i bought my squirt used, so i thought i may have a different map sensor, i took it apart and it's the standard mpx4250ap. since the scenario above matched my problem almost exactly i looked for the "turbo" sub-folder in the megatune install files, and the megatune installed directory and couldn't find it. there were a few different files in the main directories thou, like kpafactor4250 or just kpafactor. my megatune (latest version) is pulling from a file called kpafactor4250. i copied the kpafactor file i found in my megatune install files (not from the "turbo" folder, b/c that doesn't exist) into the installed folder and had to change the name to kpafactor4250 so it would read correctly, but got the same result. any ideas?

i've got an rb25 pump, don't know if it'll fit on the 26 but you can try if you want.

i know my fmic doesnt have inlet/outlet on the same side, but it's 3" piping ... here's a link b/c the pic is too big for a thread. http://plaza.ufl.edu/bryan01/car/Picture%20084.jpg

good luck, one of the difficult parts for me was getting a good rpm signal for the squirt that didn't interfere with the stock ecu. coil on plugs are fun ... but good luck, i used the defaults, and common sense when putting in the constants, and i used the ve map that was in there already (i bought it from a friend, it was on a boosted saturn if you can believe that). once i had it hooked up it started first crank. before the squirt i had to hit the gas a lil to get it to fire ... not anymore! ... perfectly smooth idle ... mmmm time to clean up the garage a lil ... i've been working so long w/o a break it's pretty bad down there ...

thanks everyone for your help, i installed the circuit above that i found on that other board the other day to get an rpm tach signal to the megasquirt, and it fired up and idled perfectly the first go. it's amazing what happens when you have fuel and spark at the same time ... ... thanks again, i'll be posting up my megasquirt settings on my rb once i get it tuned

thank you so much for everyone's help, and putting up w/ my badgering questions, but my rb is idling on the megasquirt! ... i'll post pics and maybe a vid up later this week.

not sure what car that's from (it is a 4cyl b/c of the hole count/spacing). that picture came from the megasquirt extra page setup link i posted above. i was just posting it as an example of a CAS with a wheel on it that the megasquirt could read from. they modified the cas, adding that wheel which you can buy from autronic. as it turns out i shouldn't need anything that complicated from my application, but we'll see.

i've got a race for ya ... your Z and my ... honda .... bring it ... and we have to get a video ... from inside your car ...

http://www.gweeds.net/carpage2/RevCounterCircuit.pdf here's a link for others, how to get a tach signal (12v square wave) from a coil on plug setup.

i want a ride i want a ride ... my girlfriend got a bike this past weekend, so we'll be riding around all week and i think i figured out my spark problem, and am hoping to have the car going on the squirt tonight, i'll let you know

V1.01, V2.2 PCBs VR sense The older v1.01 and v2.2 boards do not include the VR input circuits so you will have to build a circuit on some proto board or buy a PCB off the forum. LM1815 based VR sensor conditioner for V2.2 or v1.01 - optional is a 390R resistor across the VR input. i got the above from the megasquirtnspark-extra pages. http://megasquirt.sourceforge.net/extra/setup-wheel.html i'm assuming that's the board i'd have to built and put inline between the VR sensor and my v2.2 board if i wanted to get a RPM signal that way. so what are my options? 1.build the board i need to run a VR sensor, buy the VR sensor and trigger wheel, attach it to my harmonic balancer and run the RPM signal wire to the VR sensor thru the new board 2.modify one of my sensors with one of those autronic wheels (see pic below, also from the msextra pages) so that the megasquirt can read the RPM signal from that sensor. but would the sensor still be able to send a signal back to the stock computer for spark? Another COP example, this time an autronic wheel retrofitted into a CAS (spins at cam speed). As this is a 4cyl there are four outer holes. The single hole is the 2nd trigger "reset" pulse. 3. ? connect the rpm wire to the crank angle sensor and somehow split the signal between the 2 computers?

can you be more specific? i'm sorry about asking for verification but i just want to be sure of what you are saying. what does the "six hole ring" mean? are you talking about the ring (like the trigger wheel) on my stock engine, and the sensor that's on it? do you mean that i should split the wire right at the sensor? previously i tapped into the crank angle sensor wire to the stock ecu (at a point right before the ecu) with the rpm wire from the MS and i got fuel. so you're saying (just so i understand) this is a good RPM signal that the MS can use and decipher as RPM? it's not just seen as a random voltage by the MS that happens to be equilivant to an RPM voltage during cranking that enables it to squirt fuel, right? if thats that is the case, that the MS can read this as RPM, then i just need to figure out how to split it between both computers. when i hooked it up like this previously the signal to the stock ecu didnt get thru (not enough power to send the signal down both lines?) when you say to "split the line" do you mean tap into the line at that point? as you can tell i'm not the greatest electrically, i only got a C+ in circuits. also, i've tried tapping into both the (2) 120 deg crank angle sensor wires to the ecu and gotten the same results. there are (2) more 1 deg wires. could taping into either of these give a different result? thanks for the help, and for bearing with my questions.

in my last post i asked the question about where to connect my RPM signal from my MS on my rb, and was directed to trigger wheels. i'm looking for more info on this. can i just buy one of the following http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/EDIS-36-1-Trigger-Wheel-VR-Sensor-Megasquirt-Megajolt_W0QQitemZ110127328818QQihZ001QQcategoryZ33689QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem and attach it to my harmonic balancer in the front, and wire it's sensor to the RPM of the megasquirt? it says it's a EDIS wheel. does the EDIS system need to read the signal from this and then send a signal to the megasquirt or can i just use this wheel/sensor directly with the megasquirt? i want to keep the stock ignition system for now, thus trying to get fuel only from my megasquirt. it's hooked up and working well, just need a usable rpm signal. thanks for the help.

ok instead of starting a new thread, i'll just use this one... so i found my spark. (see other thread about me losing it). my fuel computer (megasquirt) needs a RPM signal to run. the stock ecu needs a RPM signal to fire spark. when i tap into either of the 120 deg crank angle sensor wires going to the ecu i get the RPM signal to the megasquirt but it disrupts the signal back to the ecu somehow and i lose spark. are they're any other wires i can tap into to get an RPM signal? or is there a way i can tap into it that'll send the same signal down both wires (one to the stock ecu and the other to the megasquirt) w/o degrading either signal? i ran my car today, briefly. i cranked it with the megasquirt hooked up, so fuel was pumping into the engine, but no spark, then i cut the wire, and it fired and ran with the fuel that was already in the cylinders (for about 5 seconds) and then shut off ... i was so excited ... but anyways ... any other ideas?

what rb TPS sensor do you have? my rb25 series 1 has a tps that has a hole in it that accepts the shaft that comes out of the throttle body. by the way, i got a q45 tb that came with a sensor on it that at least looks exactly like the rb sensor. it's even labeled nissan, bolts up the same, and has the same plug on it. if you want it i could send it to you and you could see if it works.

now there's something i can try too. currectly the grounds in the front are connected to the same bolt on the new intake plenum. but the new intake plenum is polished aluminum with a coating on it ... maybe it's just not getting a good ground at that point anymore. and what ground are you talking about at the rear of the intake plenum? are you talking about the spark part of the harness that is grounded at the back of the valve cover area?) the only grounds from the engine bay area that arent megasquirt related that i have connected are from the block to the frame and there's a ground from the end of the wiring harness (less than 10 inches from the final big battery power connection) that i have connected to ground as well. and then those 2 that are connected to the intake plenum in the front ... i'm going to go back over the harness when i get home from work and make sure it's all connected, and unhook the squirt completely and see if i cna get her to spark w/o connecting the old fuel setup.

i'm only using the MS for fuel. the ign system is the stock rb system. and yeah, i used a stim to make sure it worked, then connected it to all the sensors and got good/correct readings from them all ... i even get pulse widths and spray from the injectors, just no f'n spark to spark it ...

i agree. i'm going to unplug the MS from that wire and see if that helps. even thou i pulled the fuses it could be interfering with it some how ... and like you said, it's one of the only real things that i messed with.

i lost my spark! it was running a month ago before i pulled off the intake plenum to replace the injectors and add a megasquirt. i finally got the MS working and low and behold i have no spark. here's a copy of an email i sent to a friend just so i dont have to write it all again ... any ideas/tests i can check out would be great ... tonight i'm going to go back to the garage and put my meter to the coils and see if they're getting power, but if they're not i'm not sure what to do b/c i have everything wired still, so i dont know So there’s no f’n spark. Nothing. Not even a static shock. First of all the battery got down to 10v while I was trying to start it. then I pulled the plug wires and pulled one of the plugs. I attached that plug to the wire and touched the side of the plug to the valve cover (attempting to ground it) and cranked it. no spark. I looked for a better ground w/in reach, tried 2 more spots just to be sure, and nothing. Then I tried it with the ole screwdriver in the plug socket technique. I had kim crank it and I held the screw driver near ground, and it didn’t arc. !?!?!? I didn’t mess w/ the spark at all. nothing. All I did was wire in the megasquirt. I connected everything just to make sure it didn’t need a ground somewhere that it wasn’t getting. I had the old o2 sensor wired into it’s stock connection and the old injectors (even thou neither were in use) just to try to simulate the same situation before the squirt. Didn’t work. I pulled all the fuses for the squirt and tried again, didn’t work. I pulled the battery out of my jeep b/c by this point I’m sure the battery was more like a 9v battery than anything. I brought the jeep battery into the garage and jumped it to my z battery and it was back up to 11.5v … no spark … ever get so mad at something, not someone, that you want to explode? That was me last night … I was so pissed at an inanimate object it was comical. Anyways, ideas? It ran before I pulled the plenum and added the fuel. the only wires the megasquirt is tapped into is the tps sender wire, one of the crank angle sensors, a power wire (for the fuel pump, after it’s relay – and the pump is working fine), the new o2 sensor. It’s also connected to map, clt, and ait, but those are it’s own sensors. I’m thinking of just removing it all and starting over. I could knock the broken insulators off the stock injectors and install them. I could put everything back to the way it was (minus the plenum) and see if it will start. All my relays are still clicking by the way, so that’s not it.

what do you mean how far it is off? the difference between the 120 trigger and when it should actually fire? i'm not actually using this wire to trigger an ign system. my megasquirt is fuel only, but it needs a correct rpm signal to tell it to start working and to help calculate how much fuel it needs.

i just got an rpm signal (and thus fuel flow at cranking) by wiring the rpm wire from the MS to one of the 120 deg. crank angle sensor wires going to the ecu ... see the rb section ... once i figure out my cranking pulse widths i'll post up some tuning info on the rb25 ...

+ 10000000 points hot damn, it cranks and has rpm ... it's cranking at ~145 rpm's if anyone wanted to know ... anyways, i'm getting fuel flow thru the injectors now (before i wasnt getting any flow b/c the MS didnt know it was cranking due to 0 rpms) ... now i just have to figure out what the cranking pulse width needs to be and watch it fire ... let ya know when it does. thanks again man, and you should come by sometime, i want a ride in your 400hp beast ...