bryan01

24x12x4 xs power front i'll post a pic up later, it's wedged into a 280z with 3" pipes. i DO NOT have room for my stock hood hinges (just BARELY). when it gets back on the road i plan on just putting hood pins on it. if the intercooler was any bigger it wouldnt fit; in all dimentions. it looks incredible in there. and i had to cut the supports a little bit to open on the holes for the 3" piping. one side will fit a 3" but you're going to want some wiggle room, and the other side wont fit a 3", might fit a 2.5, but dont take my word for it. i had tons of pics online of it but i took them down and i'm at work and cant upload them to my website for some reason. i'll PM you one if you want to post it.

bubbleguinea nice pics, i'm going to have to come out sometime ... i'm currently working on my suspension, then i'm going to have someone dave knows put an exhaust on and tune it (hopefully). i'm on vacation next week, and will be spending a few days in florida, but the rest of the time i'im going to try to get the car ready for tuning. and dave, that's a crazy story, i'll talk to you about it next week ... i'll give you a call and you guys should come over sometime.

whoa another nice Z in marietta, you should come over sometime, i'm right next to the cumberland mall.

i've got the NEW new camera setup working, but i blew some relays with the old one, but it should good to go this weekend if you wanted to take some video ... and i broke my spindle pin off on one of the corners so it's taking a lil longer to get it together, but once my suspension is in i'm going to give you a call and have you introduce me to "turbo dave" ... maybe end of next week

oh crap. i've seen those complaints. i didnt know thats what this was. i'm not up to date on the actual names of all the parts if you can't tell, but thanks , i'll check it out.

actually i should ask is that stud part of the control arm or part of the link that connets the control arm to the hub?

so i'm putting in new shocks and springs and i sheared off one of the bolts on the outer rear side of the rear driver control arm. i tried to disconnect the suspension from the side closer to the hub (against the instructions in the how to i found), and it sheared off. i was able to remove the syspension by disconneting the control arm on the diff side (sometimes it's good to read the directions first). what i sheared looks like a stud that goes thru that part of the arm into the link between the arm and the hub, and it just broke. anyone out there who upgraded got a spare they can send me for some $$? here's a pic of an aftermarket control arm from modern motorsports. http://www.modern-motorsports.com/catalog/mm_gallery.php?album=2005+Modern+Motorsports+Prototype+Control+Arms+Proven%2F&pic=IMG_3374.jpg i sheared off the bolt just to the left of the guy's wrench coming out of the end of the control arm toward the camera any ideas?

i'm not sure if this is exactly the same thing, but it's worth a shot if you're bored one weekend and want to tinker w/ a soldering gun http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=122184 or you can build one http://www.gweeds.net/carpage2/RevCounterCircuit.pdf i built the circuit above and it works great, got the parts from radioshack, first time cost is less than 10$ but subsequent ones (or other soldering projects) are less than 1/2 that. if you need anymore info on this ask me, right now i'm using this to my megasquirt, but i can put as many outputs as i want on the board, so anything that needs a tach signal hooks right up. i tried hooking my squirt to the angle sensor as david said, but it wasnt a strong enough signal to split between the stock ecu and the megasquirt. i didnt try hooking up a gauge to it thou. edit: i'm going to call turbo dave about the exhaust and ms tuning later this week definately, i'll give you a call after i talk to him.

see red

well i'm doing it, i'm picking up the s13 shell later this week just to gut it and use the interior in the z. i'll post progress pics before/after; i know it'll take a while, just keep an eye out for them.

^ ... anyone got any more info on this? i found an '89 240sx shell that i'm thinking of buying just for the interior. the guy wants 500$ for everything. i'd pay that for the interior if it fits like that.

also just remembered about the arp stud kit and cometic multi layer head gasket i've got sitting in my bedroom. new in box never used. bryan01@ufl.edu

http://classifieds.hybridz.org/showproduct.php?product=4562 wanted to make sure you guys saw it, any questions ask, i'll give it a week or 2 if nobody wants any they'll go on ebay thanks

why not just run the pump from a relay off the ignition? my squirt is connected to the sensor inputs and the injectors, not to my fuel pump.

i still have the stock turbo on there and don't plan on running more than 1 bar yet because of that, even thou my fuel system is completely redone already. once i replace the turbo (not in the near future, i have LOTS of other stuff to finish before i start upgrading power), i'll turn it up (depending on the turbo of course). as usual i'd rather just buy it once than one now and one when i upgrade. on average the spec r's are more expensive than the others but i've found a few that are the same price. if there's no other input i might go that route. like i said my old profec b could hit a number and stay there. if you set it at 10 it would go to 10 by the spool up rpm but by redline it would have increased 2 or 3 pounds. after messing w/ the gain for a while i was able to decrease this a bit, but it would still move around a little which bugged me. i'm willing to try out something new

so the profec s is newer than the profec b spec 2 but utilizes an older design? i'll look into it, thanks for the info

what are people using to control boost on their rb who don't have a standalone that's controlling it? i had a profec B about 8 years ago on another car and it was good, but used to creep around a little in the high RPM settings (this was an older model of course, dont know if they've changed the design much besides the exterior?) , the new profec B's are going for about 280$ on ebay new, there's also a controller by blitz. i know i can go out and make a 5$ manual controller and pipe it into the cabin, but i'd feel much safer buying an electronic one after everything i've put into this car. anyone have any preference with either of these on an rb?

i'll post pics of the car itself up later, looks like most stock 280z' i'm still working on cleaning up the wiring on the inside, but i'll post pics up when that's ready, all my megasquirt wiring and circuits.

yeah my tach signal problem was the same way, it took several sleepless nights to find a solution, and it was hard b/c i didnt know what i was looking for until i found it. just post a good write up and maybe it'll be stickified congrats on getting it running

hell yeah it is ... dude f* a standalone, i can find you a nice bike for 3500, just say the word

oh come on ... it's only painted pretty colors ... nothing under it ... only 160hp at the rear ... wheel ... ... the megasquirt is nice by the way, you might want to considser it when you look to upgrade ... my 65#'s are a little big at idle, but i've gotten it to the point that it'll idle well, and when i rev it up it'll come back down and continue to idle ... before it would just die from getting overloaded w/ fuel

my honda is waiting ... i'll be out all weekend on it, i'll give you a call tom or friday, we can even rent the treadmill during the day and get some good vids

haha, i'm kicking myself in the foot. in your case 18.5 INCHES OF MERCury is what a gauge reads .... not KPA .... 18.5" = 62.6kpa .... then take that minus atmospheric, and you get what your megasquirt is spitting out so in my case, barometric reading of 94kpa=atmospheric minus 38 kpa (what my squirt is reading) = 56kpa= 16.5inHG. yeah ... it's reading correctly ...

http://www.msefi.com/viewtopic.php?p=170248#170248 i posted on the megasquirt forum and someone said it was fine. i still dont get it thou, what do you think (anybody)? does this make sense?