nissun1

Looks like these could work on a 240/260/280z running a the larger tank setup. I measured the stock 240z straps and one came out to 33" and the other 26". The width is bigger by about 3/4" in comparison to the stock setup and for $51 is not that bad since they're becoming hard to find new. http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/spectra-premium-fuel-tank-straps-includes-2-straps-st191/20370560-P#fragment-2 These could work also for a 240z tank: http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/spectra-premium-fuel-tank-straps-includes-2-straps-st139/20370180-P?vehicleIdFromReq=-1&isAllVehicle=true&vehicleIdSearch=-1&searchTerm=st139&showTitle=#fragment-2

Haha I did also!!

So I decided to go stock just for now until I can save up for the McKinney mounts. Would the round puck style insulators work well with using the stock mounting brackets? If so I can just go with that instead..McKinney sells theirs for $45..but stock mount insulators go for $150 on average. Here's the link: http://www.mckinneymotorsports.com/prod_motor+mount+styles Alternatively, I figured I could use the same style puck mount from a 1960/1961 Ford Falcon which would be cheaper because they run for $8 each. (Thats only if it can work)

Looking for a set of McKinney mounts (RB20DET to S30), Also looking for: Custom oil pan to work with S30..if i cant find one i will go with Pat1's ITB intake runners Forward Plenum 94 300zx TT Heavy Duty Exedy Clutch ZG Fender Flares Bre Spoiler Autometer ulta lite Speedo Gauge

I saw and read from a few people that it was a knock off product with really bad customer service. I figured in the mean time I can remove the mount from the block/cut and re-weld a new flat bracket so that i can move the engine rearward. If anyone would happen to have an extra set they can sell me that would be awesome

So i'm finally preparing my s30 to do a RB20DET swap but I don't know if io should be cheap and go with the cxracing mount kit. I know the motor can bolt up to the original cross member but i want to have the engine close to the bulkhead. I've heard mixed responses from people using their products so i'm on the fence. For those that have done the swap and used cxracing parts to do it, what did you think? I really don't want to spend $525 on McKinney mounts when there are alternatives. Custom or swapped mounts? What do you think?

Thanks borini but I ended up going with an rb swap instead. Please close thread.

Hey guys I'm looking for a complete turbo swap for my 240z. What I'm looking for is the engine forward (no trans)..preferably a p90'd complete engine w/everything etc. I have prepped my 240sx tranny to mate with a earlier series engine. As for location, I'm out of Monterey, California. Reply with pictures preferred. (415) four seven zero- 8674

I also have one laying around.

I don't actually. I've been saving up and looking into possible swaps for the budget i had in mind. So for the amount i have, i figured more or less i might be able to get my car done by the end of this year. Hopefully if things go smoothly haha. But for the most part information on how to do the swap would help just as much zentech. I've been reading up and absorbing up as much info as i can on how to do it also. Currently i'm still sourcing for a complete swap though.

I have looked through the forums and realized that their needs to be some information regarding rear axle (driver and passenger) differences. If any members would like to share some knowledge it would be greatly appreciated. I have heard stories of other members accidentally installing the drivers side on the passenger side and had problems when bottoming out over bumps or turns. Differences between early 240s and how to distinguish between left and right axles? Later years?

I'm sort of in the same boat! I modified my bellhousing to adapt to a 240sx tranny and was wondering the same thing!

Thanks zentech but $1600 is a bit over my budget at the moment :/ . Sorry for the misinformation guys it's been a while since i've been back on hbz.

For your 280 correct? Looks clean!

I know I was just wondering if any other company hade them besides Zccjdm.

Like the title says I'm looking for a complete turbo motor setup preferably (83). Solid lifter heads, good engine, and no headaches please! I'm located in Monterey California so if you or anyone you know is selling their setup let me know. My budget is 500-$1000 for a clean setup.

Who else sells the weld in type coil over sleeve like ZCCJDM (s13 megan coils) for a 240z. I have to redo my suspension since my spindle is bent and need to buy the correct sleeves since the previous owner sold me 280 sleeves.

I'm looking to buy this kit soon can you post a picture of your ride height please.

Found the answers to all the questions after a ton of research. I just removed the lower mount and readjusted everything. I realized that the Lower mount didn't matter anymore and that even the crossmember can be sectioned if I weld up the RT mount itself.

Solutions?

Haven't been on the forums lately but for somereason i decided to start working on my car again! I ran into an issue when fitting in the RT diff mount being that it sat too far forward, so i ended up notching the top hole about a 1/4" so that the bolt holes line up. Now that i have the mount up I was wondering if a lower mount would be needed also? Here are some pictures showing you guys what i mean. I am using a subaru r180 and i know that the fitment issues won't be a bother. Question: 1. Should i use a lower diff mount? As shown in the picture (solid mount) 2. If not then is it safe to just run it with RT mount? (no lower mount to crossmember) 3. Is it ok to use on an Zx motor instead of a SBC? I've read around and so far people said it's fine i just would like to hear from personal experience.

I got two jackstands and placed them under the box frame of the engine bay. I then layed a flat wooden platform across the jackstands and measured to see if it was level(used a digital level). Aftem seeing it was level i lowered the car slowly on to the platform. Remeasured the platform and then remeasured the box frame to see if they match. They matched.

I did that already. That's how i got my initial readings for both sides.

I also loosened the cross member today and tried to see if there was any room for adjustment. I readjusted and same readings were there.

At full droop im able to get about 0 to -3.0/3.5 degrees camber on the drivers side. On the passenger side full droop i am only able to get about +3 to -0.3 /0.4 degrees camber. Today i went under the car and inspected the lower control arms to see if i can notice any bends in them. So far no bends at all. My next plan of action would be to remove both lca's and compare. If all else checks ok i would suspect frame damage. I will take pictures and post them up tomorrow. (note: the car has no engine or tranny in it yet) I 'd figure at least both sides would be somewhat close even if there was not much weight. Any ideas?