BRAAP

Ron, I have to disagree with you on this one. The "Flux Capacitor" is a high end ignition component and is capable of increasing overall power of the ignition sequence beyond any measure of ordinary ignition systems, but it pales in comparison to the "#9 resistor" and the "NONferrous magnetic NARP’s valve". The F-Cap you mentioned works well with the EDIS-4, EDIS-6, EDIS-8 and EDIS-10 ignition systems. I have heard a rumor it also works with the EDIS-9, but I have yet to confirm that. Below is a picture of a genuine "Flux Capacitor" on the EDIS test bench as 6 sparkplugs are intensely “glowing” from the enhanced EDIS-6 using an F-cap, destined for an L-28. Note the “F-cap” Now with a “Blow through” ignition system, of the two solutions I am aware of listed in my previous post, the "NONferrous MAGNETIC NARP’s valve" is the E-ticket solution to an optimum plasmatic combustion initiator. These two pics below were taken on the igntion test bench with a pseudo Blow through ignition system utilizing a NONferrous magnetic NARP’s valve… as you can clearly see, the F-cap pales in comparison. Any other Ignition guru’s, pleas chime in…

Here are a couple of Z-32 injectors and a 14mm O-ring style injector. You can make out the inlet screen on the side of the Z-32 injector much easier here. The 14mm O-ring style is the most common, which is the style you need for the Pallnet rail, and the body comes in slightly different shapes. The one pictured here is out of a GM, ’94 Pontiac Bonneville, 3.8L V-6. Most of this style injector have sharper edges to the body, but are "physically" interchangeable and used on many manufactures such as GM, Chrysler, Ford, and most imports Asian and European. Some of the newer styles such as what is in use on the GM LSx engines, the body of the injector is a much slimmer design. Hope that helps. Paul

No it will NOT work. The Z-32 style of injector is a “side feed” (VG30DE and DETT). Note the lower pink area, those rectangles? Those are the inlet screens for the fuel that surround the injector. These injectors have a physically large body and fit into the cup which is part of the fuel rail itself. Very different than the standard style injector that would fit the Pallnet. For the Pallnet O-ring fuel rail you need the standard style 14mm O-rings top and bottom. Ill go out and take some pics of both the Z-32 injector and the O-ring style you need and post that in a couple minutes.

Stumbled across this no holds barred race video invloving an early Z-31 Turbo. Both vehicles have on board cameras. Those sensitive to automotive mayhem involving Z cars probably should not watch this. The cars involved did make contact with each other, more than once!!! Best viewed with beer.

Blow through ignition?! Well there are ONLY two options for this type of MAP ignition. 1) A magnetic nonferrous NARP’s valve. 2) #9 resistor. The #9 resistor option has been covered on HybridZ with great detail. Here is the link.. Click ME for the "#9 Ignition resistor" thread Good luck, Paul

In short, yes it can produce 400 HP. Will "your" quoted particular engine produce that sort of “peak” power? That entirely depends on how well thought out the combination of parts are, (and as already mentioned, including the “exact” cam specs) AND how well that combination is dialed in. The long version. Yes, 377 Cubic inches of displacement, regardless of the badge on the valve cover, is more than capable of producing 400+ HP. HOW it produces that 400+ HP will be depicted by the “combination” of the parts and how they function in complimenting each other without being under or overly aggressive for the role this engine will play in your car. Another often overlooked aspect is the “tuning” or “dialing in” of whatever combination. Just bolting on parts with “stage whatever” cam is no guarantee that the power plant will perform any better than a stock 5 liter TBI truck engine. The amount of time and care applied to the tune of those parts after it is up and running, (i.e. the ignition timing curve/map and Air Fuel Ratios), along with time spent researching the compatibility of the parts to be used, (parts chosen to meet a particular demeanor that owner/driver wishes the car to posses), is key in getting good performance. It has been proven time and again, many bargain built/assembled engines out performing engines with more aggressive and expensive parts, merely because the parts chosen for the budget project were a better match for each other and care was taken in "dialing in" that combination instead of just tossing a credit card to Summit racing for all the “Cool” parts. Good luck, Paul

That’s easy. Any shift knob that has 8mm x 1.25mm female threads in it. Or depending on how creative and imaginative you are in a shop, the stock Datsun shifter is easy to cut down in length, you can the drill and tap the shifter shaft to accept a 8mm x 1.25mm stud/bolt. Now all you need is the shift knob you want use, determine what size thread fits it, then either fab your own or locate a stud that has 8mm x 1.25mm on one end, and what ever threads on the other end. FWIW, when I shorten Datsun Shifters, I cut them down approx 2” shorter than OE, then drill and tap just as I described above and using an exhaust manifold stud, the OE shift knob goes right back on, the throws are little shorter, and to me any how, the shifter location is more comfortable. I also have exhaust manifold studs that are 8mm x1.25mm on one end and 10mm on the other end. Hope that helps…

Do you mean back fire up through the carb or out the exhaust?

Bo, Okie dokie. With this set of pics, the whole situation is becoming more clear.. Short version. "Detonation!!!!" You had enough detonation to “lift” the head off the block allowing the head gasket to release its seal and enough cylinder pressure from said detonation to deform the gasket. Long version. The head; The head is not really forth coming with info, though it is telling us a little bit. Carbon deposits all look normal, though in the first set of pics, chambers #2,3,4, the valve heads are completely wet, more so than would be normal if a little coolant drained out of the head during removal. In the new set of pics, it much more apparent that the fire ring had “slid” on the manifold side of all the cylinders, more so for cylinders #2 and 5, at least that I can tell with these pics. Block; The Block is telling us bit more information. It was mentioned that you did drain the entire cooling system including the block, of all coolant before removing the head, yet in your first set of pics, cylinder #3 has a lot of coolant in it, even if you didn’t thoroughly drain the cooling system, that is quite a bit. In the new set of pics, Cyl #2, 3, 4, 5, and 6, the fire ring seal was compromised on the spark plug side of the block. On the manifold side of the block, note how the fire ring appears to be wider and shiny. Hmmm.. Fire ring was sliding across the deck surface, hence the wider/shinier spots. Most notably for cylinders 2, 3, 5, and 6. Also note how much cleaner the pistons are in cyl #3 and 4. I realize you wiped them down, but I’m assuming you wiped them all down equally, and being as #3 and #4 were consuming more coolant than the rest, the carbon came off much easier. When water/coolant is introduced into the combustion chamber of a running engine over a period of time, it will de-carbon those cylinders. In your case it hadn’t been very long as the chambers in the head still have their carbon deposits. The head gasket; Now this part is telling us pretty much everything we need to know as to “what” happened. The pics are a bit fuzzy but it is quite clear especially for cylinder #3 and #6, that the fire ring is egg shaped, not round as they should be. Your engine experienced detonation strong enough to lift the head off of the block enough that the gasket was literally blowing out from the excessive cylinder pressure and deformed the fire ring. This compromised the seal of the gasket in multiple areas allowing coolant into the cylinders. You were lucky not to hydraulic lock the engine when trying to fire it up after it blew originally. Being as you did not overheat the engine, your head more than likely is not warped, though I strongly recommend that you do take the head to a machine shop as Jon mentioned above and have it checked to be sure. Here is an extreme example of what you experienced. This one not only blew the gasket, but also busted all the piston ring lands as well. Based on what I see from your pics, and so long as the detonation was not prolonged, and the fact that you are using stock head bolts, stock head gasket, etc, your detonation was mild enough that your pistons "should" be ok.

Bo, Some of the pics are a bit blurry, flash spots in a couple areas hiding small sections, the block is hard to make on the spark plug side, though in what I can tell from those pics, as you said, everything looks to be fine, i.e. the fire ring in-print on the head doesn’t "appear" to have been compromised. Regarding warped heads, if the coolant leaks/spewing that you were experiencing were from a warped head, it is the warping of the head that allows the head gaskets seal to be compromised, i.e. blown head gasket. Can you post up some clear pics of the head gasket, both sides? Possibly three cylinders at time for a good close up? Also include some close ups of the block, 3 cylinders at time? The more I look at the block on the spark plug side there might be signs of compromised gasket seal.. It is too hard to make out in these pics,…

Capt, EEWwww. Yeah, what Jon said! Go out and move some rocks or start a fire, something MANNLY! I don’t even want to know how you found that… When I saw the title “guyliner” I was thinking it was some Hybrid Freightliner truck converted to a pickup or something… I’m now emotionally scarred and scheduled an emergency appointment with my therapist…

VERY NICE Larry. SAH-WEET!!!

Well, if you insist… "You're just delusional".

...and the lords good people said, "AMEN!"

OMG!!! Endless possibilities.. Cyg. You were asking about your second plane on wattflyer. Here you go. Why not just draw it up, print it, fly it!

It is already Tubro-charged. There are more details in the supplied link...

Thank you for understanding and we appreciate your willingness to help out. Take care, Paul

This has been posted here elsewhere... Bore 38” Stroke 98” (That’s not a typo, bore and stroke are in INCHES!!) Crank case has built in ladders. Available in 6-14 cylinders. The L-14 version specs. 108,920 HP at 102 RPM 5,608,312 lb/ft of torque also at 102 RPM. I’d like to see a dyno that manage that much energy! BSFC at max power is .278 lbs/hp/hr BSFC at max economy is .260 lbs/hp/hr Here is an L-10. Web page this information came from.

You like that DOHC L-series eh? Then “boy howdy” do I have a treat for you! How would you like to see the chronological build up of that custom L-31DETT? It was built by a member of HybridZ. Just click the link below… Click ME for the DOHC L-series build up... I do have one small request. When you post, would you be so kind as to capitalize the first letter of your sentences and also end your sentences with a period? Helps define the beginning and end to your sentences thereby making it easier for us to decipher your posts. Thank you, Paul

Don't forget the "Coat hook" on the wall... After you get all 17, you get.... "Know when... No want... No worry..."

Thank you Doc, I appreciate that. I do apologize though as Rusch Motorsports is not taking on ANY more custom projects till summer ’08 at the absolute earliest. We are up to our eyeballs in custom head/engine projects currently and what is in process is behind schedule, (I still owe Jon that Cam article…) We will continue to sell parts, and lord willing, soon the website will be finished which will make parts ordering that much easier. Thank you, Paul

Ran across this a little while back. Sorry if this old news, thought I’d share. It is friggin hilarious.. The cabinet door, chair, wall, stapler, and the newly added file cabinet, are my personal favorites. Click me to WHACK your BOSS!!!!

Here's to a Happy 43rd Birthday Ken.

The dash looks like it was a ripoff from the Land Rover or Pontiac Fiero. Does it have a rainbow emblem on it somewhere? Fiero, Land rover, Delorean, etc.

I must be coming out of the closet here, but I think this car actually quite attractive, stylish and could easliy be the icon of an era gone by. I’ve seen a really nice black one around here in Portland a couple times, in the LaurelHurst area. This one is pretty cool too.