BRAAP

Welcome to HybridZ. Very nice clean Z-31. Seeng the intercooler, what other mods have you done to the car?

Slammed, To be honest with you, just step up and pay the full asking price for a new JTR manual. It is only $40 and it is a manual that will become your Z car bible. If $40 for a book that walks you through the entire V-8 Z car conversion is that big of a financial burden, then you can rest assured the rest of the V-8 conversion will put you in bankruptcy. Have you added up the price of a custom exhaust system, headers, radiator, having a Chevy driveline shortened with new U-joints, mounts, misc. hoses, belts etc that you will need? $40 is just a drop in the bucket. The information that Mike Knell took the time to pioneer, organize, and publish for us, (the JTR manual), doesn’t it only make sense that everyone wanting to use the JTR manual for their V-8 conversion purchase it new as a show of thanks to him for his time and effort helping us with our hobby? He isn’t getting rich selling those manuals, but every one sold does help and is incentive for him to keep publishing them and updating them as he has over the years. Also, the $40 that you will spend on the book is truly an investment. There will be no other $40 spent on your entire V-8 conversion project that will bring the value that the JTR manual has to offer. Think of it as an integral part of the V-8 conversion. Trust me, once you read through it, you’ll understand. Here you go, order away… Click ME for the JTR manual... Good luck, Paul

Nothing spectacular picture wise, just wanted to share yesterday evenings walk to and around Roslyn Lake with two of my daughters, Lelaina, (the middle daughter), aka FUZZY who turns 13 today, and our youngest, Isabella Mae who is 2 and a half and our dog, Charlie Brown, aka DUMBY! Mt. Hood in the back ground… For your fisherman, all the rings in the water are from the fish jumping! “Daughters and Mt. Hood..” “Mt. Hood and Roslyn Lake 1” “Mt. Hood and Roslyn Lake 2” “Who’s walking who?!?!...” “Jumping fish…”

Ah.. Thank you Yasin for clarifying that.

Capt, As "X64v" stated, what you described is PERFECTLY normal. That rotation you described is the mechanical advance integrated in the “distributor system” and the tension you feel that returns the rotor back to its original position are the mechanical advance springs that are attached to the fly weights. As the engine speed increases, those fly weights fling outward and advance the ignition timing allowing the engine to run smoothly and efficiently at varying RPMS with as close to ideal ignition timing for that RPM. Altering the mass of the fly weights and/or spring tension will alter at what RPM the mechanical advance will begin, how aggressive that curve is in regards to engine RPM, and at what point max mechanical advance arrives. When “recurving” a distributor, altering the flyweights and/or spring tension is how that is achieved. With modern Distributorless systems, that advance curve is altered via the ignition map, much like the fuel map. Some dizzy’s are also capable of the electronic means of altering ignition advance such as the late 280-ZX Turbo set ups. Any how, hope that helps clarify.

Amen Terry. I couldn’t agree more. "Firion" does have quite a cool and interesting project going and this conversion should benefit him on many levels. Those are the exact reasons my Z-32 will be receiving a heart transplant in the future as well. The want/need to ease access to the power plant and its ancillaries is of importance and to infuse a bit more tire spinning torque as well. My Z-32 is the N/A variant and to my standards any how, is “torque challenged”. With these car aging and their myriad of systems, wiring, sensors, modules, etc, (they are quite complex electrically speaking), and as such are starting to require more and attention in the hard to reach places.

The stock 280 ZX TPS is a 2 position switch, (indicates closed throttle and WOT at approx ¾ throttle opening). I am pretty sure the 240-SX TPS is the rheostat style and as such would be incompatible with the OE 280-ZX ECU. You can verify this by using an OHM meter on the 240-SX TPS. If the resistance across the center pin and either of the other two pins changes resistance relatively linearly with throttle opening, it will not work with the OE 280-ZX ECU. If this is the case, you will need to adapt your 280-ZX TPS to your throttle valve. FWIW, the OE 280-ZX TPS should have continuity, (zero resistance), across the center pin and one of the other pins. Then as the throttle is cracked open, those two pins should immediately go to infinite resistance, (i.e. open circuit) and remain infinite at all other throttle positions. Then when the throttle is approx ¾ open through WOT, the center pin should have continuity with the other pin, (zero resistance). As the throttle is closed less than "¾ open", then these two pins should read infinite ohms, (open circuit). If you are using an aftermarket EFI system, the rheostat style TPS is what you need and all you need to do is follow the calibration instructions for that EFI system. Hope that helps, Paul

Again, I think your input here is steering this thread away from the scope the originator, (Slammed68 in this case), is trying to accomplish here. He is asking questions for his project, not asking about options for someone else’s project. If you read what Slammed68 has been telling us all along, he wants to perform an LT1 V-8 conversion into his Z car, not an engine building, altering, or modification project. The information you are posting here is great info and is of value to those it applies to, but not this thread or Slammed68’s project which is what this thread is all about. Just for example, the GM 3.8 V6 and adding a turbo, performing head and cam swaps with an LT-1, etc, is adding complexity that Slammed68 doesn’t seem interested in. Back in post #19, he reiterated that he has set his mind on an LT1 conversion and just wants to know what it takes to install one into his car, not modify it or change it! This sort of posting is in violation of the HybridZ rules and guidelines, #6 This is the last time I will ask to please keep your posts ON topic and within the scope of the thread you are posting in. Rules and guidlines Paul

I have searched the internet on an off again over the past couple years for over the counter surge tanks and the only aftermarket over the counter surge tank info I was able to scrounge up were only offered in Australia, and several at that, nothing really stateside other than incorporated surge tanks in the exotic high dollar fuel cells or using a VW in tank pump which has a built in surge tank. Some DIY tanks/cans, both integral with the fuel pump internal of the fuel tank and external, but this Ford item never showed up in my searches, Hmm.. I just did an internet search and put out a few feelers for this Ford surge tank, (Ford refers to it as a “Fuel Reserve” and one dealer told me it comes in either 3 or 6 port configuration), including a couple Ford Dealerships, and the 9k044 is a discontinued item, was not superseded and no part cross over. Drat… It would be nice to know what the inlet/outlet fitting size is and if any one can still source these?... Here is a diagram I did find in my search just now…

Only if it is busted.

Happy 27th birthday to Kennysgreen280zt.

Happy 46th birthday Warren. Any big plans for the day/evening?

Yorgee, You appear to be on the right track. A quick search revealed these surge can thread posted here on HybridZ. The two links should help visually explain the surge tank and its purpose more clearly and shows a few good DIY surge can/tank ideas. As well. click ME for; "Here's an easy to make surge tank" click ME for; "Fabbing surge tank, catch can, and coolant overflow." Good luck, Paul

OMG!

WOO HOO!!! Yes, we are indeed quite pleased to receive such feedback from "Rebello Racing Engines". Shortly after Dave Rebello ran Ians engine on the Dyno, I talked with Dave on the phone and it was truly humbling to hear the compliments he had to say regarding our work. Thank you Ian. I have “heard” of the West coast HP being optimistic, I’m not taking sides. Rebello Racing Engines are the typical choice for most of the front runners in sports car racing events, and the fact that our cylinder head installed on a Rebello short block produced comparable numbers to a comparably built same displacement complete Rebello engine on the same dyno, (regardless of the actual HP numbers,) really means a lot to us. Thank you Ian for your patience and allowing us to build your cylinder head and we hope you enjoy your L-6 to its fullest, Paul and Krystin Ruschman; Rusch Motorsports

Isn’t there some sort of “stalking” ordinance in Texas? Eeewwww..... Full body chilll..

Sounds like some nice engines, thank you for sharing. The “push” comment was meant as more of a friendly nudge from one professional engine builder to another in an effort to remind us all that one mans "HOT street/strip 383" is another mans "monster race engine" and may not be within the scope of the project at hand. I couldn’t agree more with your last statement of first hand experience being paramount, not just stories, especially from Magazine engine builds quoted as gospel! Don’t get me wrong, so far in your short time here it is apparent that you have some valuable insight with performance V-8 builds to share with the HybridZ community and we do appreciate your willingness and wanting to share all that experience with us. It does seem as though your posts are coming across as if you are in a hurry to share “all” of your knowledge and experience with us all at once. As a professional high performance engine builder myself, I sometimes find myself doing the same and have to keep reminding myself to keep the original “intent” of the thread in perspective when replying and not to dominate or take over the thread and push it in a direction the originator wasn’t wanting to go in the first place. Definitely a delicate balance for sure. Again, thank you for you sharing those impressive build ups. Maybe we could get you to write up a few more of your successful build ups in detail as you did here including the end result, i.e. vehicle weight, tranny type with the ET/MPH, and post them in either the members project section or in a dedicated thread for "tried and true performance builds"?

Happy 28th birthday to J. Soileau RB26zcar

Yeah, it did seem like this thread was starting to be "pushed" down a path you were merely inquiring about. For more information on LT 1 conversions, using the Google version of our search engine, perform these three searches, LT1 LT 1 LT-1 (Search button is at the top of the screen in the blue bar, the lower search option is the Google search option.) That will keep you busy for quite a while. Good luck and keep us posted on your progress and if you have any more questions.

Looks like you guys have nailed down exactly what “Slammed68” was originally looking for, or at least the 383 part of his original question. Sounds like a nice 383.

Nice....

Firion, Keep up the good work and we all are looking forward to your next update. Definitely a unique conversion retaining the OE Auto trans etc.

CobraZ, Sorry but please go back and read the very first post in this thread. Aside from your opinion on the VG30DETT, this gentleman is documenting his non standard SBC Z-32 V-8 conversion here on HybridZ for other reasons than power. As he stated, the SBC will be a much easier engine to work on and maintain, now, and as the engine ages, parts are EVERYWHERE for pretty cheap, etc. etc. etc. Who is to say he is going to leave the engine in that configuration? He did stay he has been around some stock car racing, my bet is the engine will not remain stock. He may have plans to EFI, and turbo charge the V8 in the future, and the stock SBC compared to a stock VG30DETT, the SBC can EASILY produce 300 crankshaft HP with VERY little effort. 400 HP is also easy to achieve, VG30DETT just crank up the boost to get to the 400 HP level, but the SBC still isn’t using Turbos yet! Add Turbos to the SBC and …. .. well, you get the point.

Happy 60th birthday to SHO-Z. Did you get any super cool Z car related stuff for your Birthday?

" I don’t care wahtchya all say, that’s funny right there. " Oh, and don't forget http://www.classiczcars.com As for being in a hurry, please be a little more patient. Sometimes it may take a few days or more before a response. Bumping it every few minutes, every few hours will get that thread tossed in the shed for sure. As for your gasket leaking, I’m assuming you are seeing coolant weeping and stains down the passenger side of your block? If the block surface was not thoroughly cleaned “immediately” prior to installing the gasket or if the block deck surface sat exposed to any moisture, (high humidity counts), for any period of time prior to installing the head gasket, the slight corrosion that starts to form on the deck surface will compromise the seal of the head gasket just enough to allow the coolant to weep out externally on the L-series. As for your bump in comp ratio. You said you have an L-28, but which one, early dished pistons with N-42/47 head, late flat top pistons and P-79/P-90 head, is it N/A, OE turbocharged? At any rate, it doesn’t matter which L-28 you have right now as the compression ratio topic in regards to building high performance L-28’s has been beat to death and then some on this forum. Do a search for custom cylinder heads, big and nasty head work, and other cylinder head searches and you will find LOTS of info regarding what works and does not work with specific build combinations. Not all combinations are compatible. Good luck, Paul