BRAAP

Looking forward to seeing a Mercedes in his driveway so I can return the crap he flung at me for my Infiniti Q-45.. Going to echo want Ron said, here.. Preface; Just turned 40 a few days ago! When I was younger, had only been driving a few short years, was an avid Formula 1 and IMSA GTP follower, (any of you remember watching Ayrton Senna, Alain Prost, Nigel Manssel, racing at Monza, Hockenhiem, etc? how about Geoff Brabham and Steve Millen rounding turn 9 at PIR in the IMSA GTP/GTO series)… In my mind at the time, IMSA GTP was the pinnacle of sports car racing.. fond memories.. Any way, back then I would’ve given up everything in life to own and drive the Nissan IMSA GTP ZX as a daily driver and also for track duty of course. I was eager and ready to “welcome” whatever compromise in street manners and drivability that car had and embrace those compromises as character and the urge to master and control that character was strong. My Z, the original BRAAP Z, loud, obnoxious, fun, sexy, at the time it was pert neer perfect. I almost gutted it with tube frame etc, wanting that street legal race car. That was youth and testosterone in control for sure. Then I swapped in a V-8, it was even closer to that 20 something’s idea of an ideal daily driver. Fast forward to today. Having matured, (not much really), and spent umpteen thousands of miles behind the wheel of many automobiles, that raw creeky, heavy steering “character” has lost most of its luster as an ideal trait for a daily driver. My current DD is a Z-32 and at this time in my life is a decent compromise. Steering is light, pedals are light and smooth, not sloppy, clunky or sticky. Wind noise and road noise is tolerable enough to listen to the stereo on the freeway at levels that won’t split eardrums. Stopping power is incredible, handling is fun and spirited. Something I never considered important when I was 20 something was crash protection, now it is a little more important. Ron Tyler and myself have had many discussions over the years on our concept of what it would take to bring an S-30 to level that is tolerable as a Daily driver. We have come to the conclusion that we are just getting too old for a project that involved, as well as manage a job, family, property and other smaller hobbies. It is far easier to just purchase a Z-32 or M-3 to fill the role of daily driver and leave the S-30 as that raw canvas with all its character. Face it, the character of the S-30 is what makes the S-30 what it is. Turning an S-30 into an Infiniti, BMW, Mercedes, is like turning a Maxim model into a catholic school girl. In short, for the more mature in age with hundreds of thousands of road miles behind the wheel, the S-30 is great weekend toy and excellent race car. Ron Summed it perfectly. “It is our Canvas” ...

Using my 12” Mitutoyo calipers, did a quick outside to outside of guide measurement on a P-90, P-79, Z/N-47 and a N-42. All measured the exact same valve spacing. Keep in mind those are all L-28 heads and share the same diameter valve heads. I think I have an old E-31, an E-88 and access to an MN-47. Give me a few days on those…

Hmm… This sounds interesting. Do any of your parts books etc have any more information on this intake runner control valve or possibly some pics? Curious if it operates like we are thinking? If so, do you think it could be used with an aftermarket EMS such as MS or Wolf controlling it on another engine? Is it an on/off device, 5 volt, 12 volt etc? If you can get us more info, that would be great. I do recall the Taurus SHO with the Yamaha built 3.0L used two different length intake runners, long ones for low RPM, then some where in the 4k RPM range, a butterfly/valve would allow the shorter runners to feed the engine. I wonder if this system you mentioned is the same or similar?

Merged the cross posted threads. Please refrain from cross posting in the future. Thank you.

Jeff, I couldn’t find any 10x1.25 mm studs, or “any” 10mm studs for that matter in the catalog. ARP does offer various metric bolts. 6x1, 8x1.25, 10x1.25 and 10x1.50. The 6 and 8 MM bolts come in the following lengths… 12, 16, 20, 25, 30, 35, 40, 45, 50, 55, 60, 65, 70, 75, 80, 90, and 100mm lengths. The 10mm bolts come in 20, 25, 30, 35, 40, 45, 50, 55, 60, 65, 70, 80, 90, and 100 mm lengths. All bolts are offered in either hex head or 12 point, Black oxide or stainless. Wrench sizes for the 6mm bolts is an 8mm wrench, for the 8mm bolts is a 10mm wrench, and for the 10mm bolts, a 12mm wrench. Hope that helps, Paul

Interesting... As a die hard S-30 nut, that is actually flattering. In a world where many are wanting to modernize their S-30, there are those with modern cars wanting to duplicate the style of our older cars. Cool...

Thank you very much gentleman. I had a wonderful Birthday. Spent the driving around with the family taking in the beautiful splendors of Fall in the Pacific Northwest, (pictures to be posted soon in the photography thread). And for all the guys who were brave enough to roast me?… Keep it up. I love humor and a good roast, even if when it is directed at me. And a belated Happy Birthday to you Scottie.

Looks fine from that angle. How do they line up with each other? I.e. are all three pulleys grooves that your belt is riding in, are they all in that exact same plane with each other? The other two grooves were used for other accessories from the GM factory and that second belt also ran on the crank and water pump at the same time as well as the accessory, which could’ve been P/S, A/C, smog pump, etc..

I just looked in my ARP catalog. No listing for Datsun Nissan flywheel bolts. Sorry. I did find in the ARP catalog that the Toyota 3SGTE engines utilize 8 flywheel bolts, M12x1.25x1” long. That is the same dimension as the Datsun L-series Flywheel bolts. This ARP 8 bolt kit part number is 203-2801. On paper it looks like they might work, though I can not condone the use of another flywheel bolt not intended for this application due to possible safety risks. Here is a complete list of all Datsun/Nissan ARP hardware as my catalog shows. (shameless plug). These can be ordered through Rusch Motorsports as well. Here are all the ARP listings for the L-6 engines; L24, L-26, L-28 Main studs 202-5406 Head studs 202-4206 9mm Rod bolts 202-6003 8mm Rod bolts 202-6002 All other Datsun/Nissan ARP hardware as listed in my catalog; Rod Bolts; L-16 102-6001 L-20B/Z-22 202-6001 SR-20 202-6005 VG30E & ET 202-6003 VG30DE & DETT 202-6004 VG35E 202-6006 (Pro series ARP 2000) Head studs; (all have 12 point nuts) A-12 202-4202 A-14 202-4203 L-16/18/20B 202-4201 RB20/25DE & DET 202-4301 RB26DETT 202-4207 (ARP 2000 series) SR20DE & DET 102-4701 CA18DE & DET 202-4702 (u/cut studs) VQ35 202-4701 (u/cut studs) Main Studs; L-16/18/20B 202-5401 VG30, SR20 DET 202-5402 VQ35 202-5801 (4 bolt main) Exhaust/Intake studs Stainless steel 170,000 PSI Tensile strength exhaust/intake studs, M8x1.25 thread… Studs utilize internal hex for inserting the studs, 170,000 PSI tensile, and come with 12 point nuts. Come in packs of 4, 8, 10, and 12. Come in lengths of 32mm(1.25”), 38mm (1.5”), 45mm(1.75”), 51mm(2.00”), 57mm(2.25”) 4pack; 32mm 400-8001 38mm 400-8002 45mm 400-8003 51mm 400-8004 57mm 400-8005 8 pack; 32mm 400-8011 38mm 400-8012 45mm 400-8013 51mm 400-8014 57mm 400-8015 10 pack; 32mm 400-8021 38mm 400-8022 45mm 400-8023 (OE length Datsun L-6) 51mm 400-8024 57mm 400-8025 12 pack; 32mm 400-8031 38mm 400-8032 45mm 400-8033 51mm 400-8034 57mm 400-8035 Hope that helps, Paul

By chance are you using some form of voice recognition software for creating your posts? I don’t mean this as disrespectful, with the lack of capitalization, limited punctuation, run on sentences, spelling, and your use of the word “like”, and “um”, your posts sort of remind me of an 80’s "valley girl" conversation. Again, I mean no disrespect, it is just different and has the appearance of possibly being voice recognition typed/posted… Good luck with your project. It should be scary quick by most street car standards.

Member here eh? Hmm.. Either he's smart enough not to make any sort of attempt to backup his outrageous BS claims, or he is just making that up like everything else..

Classic… ..."This car is not stock".. And this guy is actually living and participating amongst us in society?!?!? Scary…

63rd, ….. Good one.. Actually only 40 today… ....Now who was it that lied about his date of birth when he signed up for HybridZ?....

:lmao: Says he can "prove how the car runs…" Ok, lets see the time slip with at least the 110 MPH trap? Possible yes, but after looking that car over, NO!!! Those 1/8 mile traps puts him at mid to low ‘9’s in the ¼ and guys running these sort of times are generally more dedicated drag cars, and the small blocks among them are running some sort of power adder, not just a low rise N/A single carb set up. Why the huge spread in 1/8 mile traps? (because he is full of dung...) This is a very nice looking V-8 street car and probably is making respectable power and most likely runs pretty hard. So why exaggerate with such inflated performance? C'mon, 200 MPH?!?!? Please tell me that tool is not a member here?

Not yet. Sorry it is taking so long. At some point in the next month or so I'll go over to Dave's and weigh his VQ35DE.

Along with Hughdogz recommendations, I’ve heard pasta’s are also a good source for pig rich carbs. In all seiousness 79Ztuner, (your user name would suggest that you tune EFI, not carbs ...) check this link below as it will help tremendously. Click ME to find info on HybridZ

…. with just a quick glance inside I find the Aero coverage, (good work gents), and on page 96 I find member "Booztd_3" RB26 Z-32 representing 300ZXclub.com, (Nice car Andy), and also member "mark" with his very tight LT 1/T-56 powered 240-Z representing HybridZ. If you haven’t subscribed yet guys/gals, here you go… http://www.nissansportmag.com/

Awesome John. That is a HUGE improvement. Did Mr. Lum come down to watch/play?

Da-man, WOW! Such an attitude towards the "self indulgent Ball Park franks" among us.. tsk tsk… Or are we Oscar Meyers?... It is quite apparent that you did NOT read it thoroughly. Please enlighten us all with your expert knowledge on this subject and argue your finer points IN that thread? It may behoove you to actually read that thread first… Quote of the day... :lmao: Careful now.. Those are some pretty bold statements considering the company you are in….

That plug is to protect the Fuel Injection Manifold from cracking during Carburetor icing, duh!....... Or is that where they supported the mold during the casting process?...

Da-man, Below is a link that is the perfect opportunity for you to argue that point; Click ME for the "freeze plug" argument currently in progress... Good luck….

**edit** deleted previous post.. Thunder, Sorry about that. I didn’t see the link at first. Here are a couple great reads regarding Z car diffs.. Datsun IRS third members.... Talking the talk, Z car diffs Again, I apologize.

Don’t you know anything? The PVC valve is part of the Poly-Vinyl Chloride injection system, duh! I’m just kidding. I saw this one and couldn’t resist.

"Freeze Plug". They are "core plugs", "soft plugs", etc. Not freeze plugs. “Hot Water Heater”. If the water is already hot, why are we trying to heat it? It is called a “Water Heater”.

Well, you car originally came with an “AMP” gauge that shows a negative or positive charge, (power leaving or going into the battery). The AMP gauge utilizes a “shunt”, sorry no light. Unless someone installed a ‘76+ “volt” gauge with a charge light in it, there should be no light bulb.