BRAAP

WOW! Nice numbers with only 24 lbs of boost! Speaking of your busted drive train parts... I posted a question for you regarding your busted R-230 output shafts in this thread below as it has me just a little bit concerned.. Busted output shafts... Thank you, Paul

This should help get you started. This print shows the rear of the “Small Block Chevy” block including bell housing bolt hole pattern w/dimensioning including crank centerline etc. Please keep us posted on your progress, including pics...

First things first. Keep this in mind. Typically threads such as this one, get locked and tossed in the tool shed as this forum is not geared towards maintenance issues or restoration of Z cars, (those questions are best asked on http://www.zcar.com and http://www.classiczcars.com). This is HybridZ, a forum dedicated to extreme performance Z cars and the sharing of ideas, concepts, and experiences along those lines. On occasion we will field a “My wipers don’t work, why?” or a “My car wont start, why?” question. When we do, we expect those people to have already exhausted all their current resources first, i.e. purchase a shop manual like a Haynes Manual, read through it, make an effort to check the basics, etc, and prior to posting their question here, search the archives in case that issue has already been addressed, THEN we will help as best we can from there. Ok, now with that out of the way, lets get back to your issue. One thing at time… You have spark, you say it will sputter a bit, and all the other components of what an engine needs to run “seem” to be in check based no your posts thus far, except that we have no absolute verification that fuel “is” or “can be” introduced to the engine. Verify that FIRST, then we’ll move on from there. We want to help out but if you are guessing at things like, "could it being timing?", that tells us that you have some more bases to cover on your own first. Just go out and check for clicking injectors and for adequate fuel pressure as listed above, then report back.

Check to make sure the injectors are pulsing. They will make an audible clicking noise as the engine is cranking. Easiest way to verify this is to use a mechanics stethoscope, or a long screw driver. Touch the end of the screw driver on an injector, place your ear on the handle of the screw driver, (the screw driver is your makeshift stethoscope if you don’t own the real thing), and have someone else try starting the car. You should hear the injectors “click.. click.. click…” as the engine is cranking. Do this with all the injectors. If none of them are clicking, diagnose why, i.e. power to the injectors, power to the ECU, etc. If they are clicking, then they are capable of delivering fuel, but if there is no fuel pressure, there will be no fuel flow into the engine, so verify that you indeed have fuel pressure. Good luck.

Wowzers.. That is cool...

Yeah, what he said.. ..

… and that is what concerns me. They are breaking?!? The R-230V and Q-45 R-200V utilize the same output shafts, (they are the only ones with 6 bolt “Star” flanges, right?), and are supposed to be “the burly” short nose output shafts, yet here is a pic of a busted one! What I’m getting at here is that if the output shafts are prone to failure then these diffs and the potential benefits they bring to the table vs. the long nose R-200, i.e. “toughness”, are not so beneficial after all?! Maybe I’m not seeing everything, or something is missing in this and before my panties get any more bound up than they are right now, (starting my own Q-45 R-200V, double A-arm, aluminum hub, 5 lug, Z-32 brake project for my super-charged SBC w/T-56 S-30 280-Z), we probably should get some more info from "Booztd3" such as, “how is he launching”, i.e. abusive stomp and dump with slicks or preloading the drive train before unleashing hells fiery? In short, did that output shaft break due to a manufacturing flaw in that particular part, or because it was launched abusively in a manner that would break anything short of a top fuel rear end, or are these output shafts not as tough as the long nose R-200 output shafts, (haven’t seen any of those busted before...)?

I tried one of those cheapo garbage fuel filters, (in the capacity of a fuel filter), on my race car and it leaked big time. No matter what I did, including trying an alternate square O-ring, polished the sealing surfaces, tried different torque values on the bolt, etc. (The Fram version is the same part). It always leaked a steady stream, so I gave up on that cheap POS and spent $70 I think it was back then, for a real billet aluminum fuel filter that does not leak. I strongly feel that you get what you pay for, and when it comes to fuel supply components, it isn’t worth the safety and fire risks to skimp using the least expensive parts. Back to Surge tanks. When I was researching surge tanks and came up empty handed, I found these really nice quality billet aluminum Transmission catch cans made by CSR. They are filled with a semi woven plastic mesh to reduce slosh. I spent several hours using a dental pick removing the mesh not knowing for sure if that material was compatible with fuel. This can has two 1/8” NPT fittings on the top and one 1/8” NPT fitting in the bottom. There is enough material to drill and tap the holes bigger to 1/4” NPT if need be. I never got around to installing mine in the race car, though I will use it on project FUZZY as a fuel surge tank. I did plug the ports and installed a schrader valve and pressurized it to 125 PSI and submerged it in a tub of water, no leaks. We also just ordered another one that a customer is going to use as his coolant overflow catch can in his Z car. This catch can is a very attractive piece and comes with a really nice mounting clamp as well. For the quality and aesthetics of this part, the price is quite reasonable. Capacity: 1 pint, Length: 4.875" in. Diameter: 3.000" in. CSR Catch can at SUMMITracing.com

Eccentric shaft, (sort of like our crankshafts), is tach speed. Those 4 rotor beasts definitely sound upward sof 8k+

I found another video on that Scoot 3rd gen 4 rotor Rx7. Good shots of the exterior, (in my opinion it's not as exotic as the other video eluded to, still pretty HOT though...) Then I found another 500 HP "all motor" 2.6 liter 4 rotor 3rd gen Rx7 making a sub 10 second run down the strip. The exhaust note is pure... Also found the 4 rotor powered BMW, it had already been posted though....

OMG!! That is HOT!!!! The rough idle is reminiscent of a Top fueler idling on Nitro.. Very cool.. I’d like to see more of the car itself. From what little was shown of it, it has a very exotic "super car" look. So that is the RX-7 that was/is stil being produced in Japan but not available here in the states? Is that OE or is that a special one off tuner car? Please excuse my lack of knowledge regarding the Rx7, but that car is incredible.

… Ah, that makes sense why I only see engine parts ads like KB & JE pistons, Cola and Callies cranks, Hastings rings, AFR heads, Del-west titanium valves, GMPP, NISMO engine parts, etc. And all along I thought I had spy ware.. Jeesh…

Way to go Bryan. This is a HUGE accomplishment and definitely one that will go down in Z car history for sure. I have great admiration for your perseverance in following through and getting it running and also how you kept a thick skin every time the “nay sayers” piped up. Congratulations my friend, good work, yeup, good work in deed. Paul Ruschman Rusch Motorsports

Ok, so are you agreeing with us, letting us know that you already knew that, or you are thankful that we let you in that tid bit, that tid bit was useless to you? What are you trying telling us and what do you want form us? Your posts have been vague at best and your other posts here not so HybridZ related. You need to be give us more information when you post. We can’t read minds.

Which Nissan V-6 do you have in your ’78 280Z?

Not “flip flopping”, just trying to use humor in such a way to prod this thread from becoming shed fodder. I realize that some times, ok, most of the time, my humor is lacking, dry, or just isn’t funny, this was one of those that “flipped”, then “flopped!”

Bubbles, First off, you are coming across that you don’t like 1 fast z. Fine. Please don’t bring it to this forum. Secondly, in regards to engine building, design, theory, tuning, etc, Bryan has walked the walk, and is building creative projects that the rest of us only bench race about. Whether or not Bryans project runs for 5 seconds, 5 minutes, or 5 years, produces only 100 HP or 300 HP, makes no difference. He had the balls to not only conceive such a project, but follow through with it, even if the end result could’ve been duplicated by other means for less money in less time, makes no difference. If you are not going to give him his due respect for that achievement, fine, but please refrain from your negative tone towards other peoples efforts and abilities to take on projects the rest of us only dream about.

Interesting. The sound definitely does not fit the car. Ok, so when is someone going to put one in an S-30? Modern Cummins with the Electronic diesel injection. With the chip upgrades, free flowing exhaust, maybe even a Turbo upgrade, head work, etc, 300-400 HP, (700+ lbs of torque), is totally realistic and should put an S-30 at least into the high 12’s. Probably wouldn’t be much great corner carving track car, though with attention paid to the suspension, it could be made to turn fairly well for a street car. It would probably make for a decent street strip project, or just a proof of concept.

Excellent idea. Judging by her glow, you chose well. Great shots, thank you for sharing.

http://www.Zcar.com If you don’t like those guys, then try; http://www.classiczcars.com Good luck, Paul

Ricky, Being as you asked about a choke adjustment on an ’81 and you posted in the Toyota straight 6 cylinder forum, exactly what car are you trying to repair/diagnose here?

(full body chill….).. “Huge by large” spiders are scary and wrong.. Are those Wolf spiders very common where you live Mike?

A new member here from the 240-SX groups “underground”, posted some info regarding the short nose R-200V, linked to another page that showed someone broke their R-230 output shafts, same as shown here, (link below). Am I missing something here or does it seem the Q-45 R-200V and the R-230 have a weakness, i.e. the output shafts? Link to Busted Short nose output shafts...