BRAAP

Just enough...

Very nice. Thank you for the "how to DIY laser driveline aligner thing-a-ma-bahb".. Very cool and simple to build.

Ooooh oooh.. Very cool. Let uskonw how that works. Hmmm... I wonder how Stand off injectors would look on the V-8 ITB?

DOH! Good thing I left my Tool shed keys in the shop tonight huh? Your options… 1) Most people just polish them as they are aluminum. 2) Take your valve cover down to a plating or polishing shop. 3) A simple SEARCH in Google yielded these… http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DATSUN-240z-260z-280z-280zx-VALVE-COVER-POLISHED_W0QQitemZ160138985321QQihZ006QQcategoryZ140696QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD6VQQcmdZViewItem http://www.zcarusa.com/shopping/shopdisplayproducts.asp?id=29&cat=Datsun+-+Nissan+OEM+Accessories http://www.georgiazclub.com/tips/ztech/coverpolish.htm http://portland.craigslist.org/clc/pts/374016208.html

Pictures of V-8 ITBs are border line PORN. (Shhh shhh…. I just added this “porn” to my V-8 induction folder.. )

VERY VERY nice… Keep posting pics as you progress.

Are you building either of those and selling them? If so, do we need to supply core gears and how far out are they?

Turd cutter, Yeah, interesting name you have there. Here is a link regarding to the Nissan Autos, including the Q-45 auto. I’ve heard there are a few guys running low 12’s doing wheel stands in their 4000+lb Q-45,s stock tranny with a few internal upgrades. http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=26469

Just adding my Timing $.02 while riding in on Tony D’s. shirt tail. Now if an engine combination runs best at 37-40 degrees timing and with premium pump gas you are experiencing pinging at anything more than 34 degrees, you are giving up power. You’d be far better off with a little lower compression ratio to retain that ideal ignition timing. The open chamber L-series heads seem to like the high 30’s, 36-and even as much as 40 degrees total ignition advance. Between 36-39 seems to be the sweet spot for most open chambered L-6 heads. The closed chamber head like the MN-47, prefer 32-35. The MN-47 chamber is more efficient and the flame front doesn’t have as far to travel.

Here is just one recent example of the OE EFI not liking cams, local customer Mike Hintz, also a member here on HybridZ. This is the car; http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=119783 He previously had another local Datsun shop build his L-28 engine. The engine has the Euro flat tops, N-47 head, approx 10.4:1 compression ratio, Schneider dual pattern cam, 270/280, and they used stock valve springs?! DOH! The machine work and overall assembly of the engine looked real nice, other than not researching parts compatibility. He met up with us and talked to us about his previous Dyno experience at Torque Freaks with this set up. It was detonating audibly, he couldn't here it inside the car at all, yet the dyno operator was hearing it and told him no more pulls because of detonation heard outside the car. Any how, I talked him into letting us build him a lower compression head and going back to a stock cam because of the EFI doesn't like cams, (I've been there, done that, and seen it with SEVERAL others). He was VERY reluctant on the cam part. Once the new head and stock cam were ready I swapped the heads which is a P-79 head with a static comp ratio of 8.6:1, stock '81-'83 N/A ZX cam, spent some time road tuning the EFI and ignition timing for best power and drivability. I went back to that same dyno with Mike that next day. When we got to the Dyno facility, He wouldn't stop talking about how much smoother, more drivable, and more powerful it was now. The Dyno reflected exactly what he described. He gained Torque/power everywhere, from idle all the way up the RPM range, the car was MUCH smoother, faster, and got better mileage. Win, Win, Win, all around. So we went from 10:4.1 down to 8.6:1, and also back to a much weaker cam, and the engine not only ran smoother, but made more power. Sure some of it could have been that I took the time to dial in the new combination and the other builder didn't, maybe he did, we'll never know. But I honestly don't feel that I could've squeaked even 5 HP more over the stock set up and it still would have been nowhere near as smooth, flat spots in the power band, etc. The OE EFI does not like cams, at all. Now if he had the Wolf EFI in the car, then that bigger cam would've made more power and ran pretty close to as smooth as stock once dialed in, the key here being pin point fuel control under any condition. In tricking the OE EFI, we use the water temp resistance, AFM spring adjustments, grinding the floor of the AFM for fine tuning, (mostly for idle depending on many other factors such as the AFM already being at the end of the CO adjustment range in the AFM), and we have even employed a separate stand alone WOT switch that utilized a different water temp resistance value from the cockpit adjustable fuel adjustment dial. Not all of those tricks were employed on Mikes car, but you get the point. Even with all those "tricks" to get the OE EFI to fuel extra in certain situations and not in others so as not to compromise drivability or power elsewhere, it still isn't enough for big cams. It is my belief from all the experience I've gained in playing with many OE EFI L-28s is that if the OE EFI is to be retained, the cam needs to be stock, and the intake can't be modified to heavily, and the OE EFI will work and can make OK power. Aftermarket EFI frees up so much and allows the tuner so many more options for more power. From years of experience playing with, tuning, and racing the OE EFI, for a street car, the OE EFI simply does NOT like cams. Take it or leave it. Ok, I'm personally done beating this very very dead horse.

Nice and clean. Good work.

Yeah, and drop "that" in the lighter Z….. J/k, good luck with your Vette endeavors.

Great analogy Daeron. Olie, As Daeron pointed out, in regards to allowing the engine to breath, manifold runners need attention first. Then if you plan to port match, take the time to unshroud the valves as well. Because you now have a larger cam than stock, in my opinon, it would be pointless to do anything to the manifold or head ports, (including installing a larger than stock cam), while you are still running the stock ECU. Good luck, Paul

Happy birthday Cyg and glad to hear that you and your family are alright after be “spoken” to, so to speak.. Happy Birthday, Paul

My father built that car, Big Block Chrysler 440. I have NO idea what the cowl is from, I think he bought it from Summit. Sorry I couldn’t be of more help.

That is good news. Well, good that you found the problem any how and that it should be an easy inexpensive fix. Thank you for giving us the update. Take care, Paul

A clean unbutchered hood line is nice for sure, in fact I prefer the OE hood line. On the other hand, a hood cowl modification, done for the sake of clearing a power plant worthy of being under that hood, also has merit. Ah, and don’t forget to regularly let the smoke out the rear tires as it will complement any oversized cowl..

As Jon pointed out, the OE EFI will NOT tolerate larger than stock cams and there is no “reasonable” way around it. I’m sure someone could hack the resistors and caps in the ECU, but with Mega Squirt being so inexpensive and readily accessible... The OE EFI will barely tolerate extreme exhaust mods and minor head work, (those two items with the stock cam and stock EFI intake manifold don’t alter the VE curve too much and what they do alter the VE curve, we are able to compensate for with a variety of methods). The OE EFI will not tolerate freer flowing intake manifolds nor will it tolerate aftermarket cams. Both of those alters the VE curve so drastically and there is no reasonable way to keep the part throttle cruise AND WOT in balance. You will have to sacrifice one for the other and at that, if you spend too much driving around in the compromised area of the tune, it can be bad enough to foul plugs, which means that it wont work right when you start driving in the region it was tuned for due to fouled spark plugs I.e., if you have stock EFI, and you want to drive it, either put the stock cam back in or swap out the EFI to Mega Squirt. Also, because you now have a more radical cam, it is common that you will loose some low end torque and mileage, though it all really depends on how well tuned it was to begin with. You might get some of the lower end power back with an ideal tune using mega squirt and getting rid of that AFM from the air stream, though you wont be able to take full advantage of the top end power that the bigger cam is capable of due to the restrictive intake manifold, in particular its runners. The throttle valve is not really restriction compared to the runners. . Sure, you will see “some” gain up on top, but not as much if you uncorked the runners, i.e. freer flowing intake manifold. Hope that helps.. Paul

Yes. The sensor is directly exposed to the coolant and wil leak the coolant if removed. You should drain 1-2 quarts out of the radiator through the drain plug first so it doesn't dribble on the ground upsetting the community, if you know what I mean. If you have an ohm meter, you can verify that the water temp sender is functioning without having to remove it from the car. To verify the ECU is getting the correct values, using that Haynes manual, you can trace the pin outs of the ECU connector, unplug the ECU and at the ECU connector, verify the same readings there as you got at the sender itself described below. With the engine full warm, approx 180 degrees, resistance across the two prongs of the sensor should read in the neighborhood of 200-300 ohms. At about 60 degrees, say first thing in the morning after the engine that has at all night, it should read between 2000-3000 ohms or there a bouts. (Sorry I don’t have the manual in hand and today is going to be hectic). If my OHMs values are way wrong, someone please post the correct figures for this guy.

Joe, Thanks for jumping in and helping out with this one. Btw, Ron says he enjoyed chatting with you, brought back memories. Some day we’ll all have to get together and swap V-8Z stories. Sorry for the tangent.

Atronix, First, please open this link and read the entire page, thoroughly. Your previous post was tossed for not following rule #2, this one violates #3. In this instance, the word ”anyone” in the title box doesn’t pertain to your request… http://forums.hybridz.org/announcement.php?f=69&a=2 I’m not going to throw this one out incase someone wants to helps out… Secondly, if you need engine parts, you need to let us know what engine you are building, L-6, is it a V-6 or V-8 conversion? What year? What displacement? If you need a crank or good used pistons, we need more specifics. Have you called any of the automotive machine shops in the area? All Automotive Machine shops have access to ALL the consumable internal parts for any engine manufactured that was made available in the US. Also, The block will need some amount of clean up and machine work so those new bearings, pistons, rings, gaskets, etc stand a better chance of not blowing up. For used parts such as blocks cranks, rods, heads, maybe good usable pistons, (if your block doesn’t need to be bored), hit the U-pull-it yards. There is one on Foster road in Damascus and one in Boring right on hwy 26 next to Ashley’s A&W that have a few Z cars and you can get complete engines for $150, you disconnect everything, they “YANK” it out with a gargantuan CAT loader. As an engine builder, your post has me thinking something is amiss and the issue/problem isn’t being addressed, just the end result. If you blew up two engines already, I would seriously do some research before the next one scatters itself in the oil pan, 1) Why did the last 2 engines blow up? I.e. were they just thrown together with indiscriminant incompatible/incorrectly sized used internal parts, lack of maintenance, really poor state of tune, etc? If this is an L-6, Those engines are virtually bullet proof N/A. To blow up 2 of them in stock trim?... 2) What steps are you planning to lessen the possibility of scattering another engine? Good luck and please read the entire page of the link I posted above. Paul

Shot you a PM about the other sensors. Hope you are able to find it. Keep us posted.

There is room for at least two of those stacked inline, maybe even three.. Hmmm a Nissan V-18, VG90E...