BRAAP

The intake manifold on the VH45DE is rather tall. Depending on your fabrication skills, you could design and build your own low profile manifold that would fit under the stock bonnet. Here is a picture of a custom manifold on the VH45DE , though this particular design probably isn’t short enough fit under the Z32 bonnet, it does represent how radical you can get with a custom manifold on the VH45DE.

I have it here in the shop in Sandy Oregon, just outside of Portland. The suspension is all I have left of the car, that is for sale any how. Another well established HybridZ member has the shell and those monster slicks, (he was just viewing this thread a moment ago), another nearby racer has the engine and the R-160 LSD, GearHeadStik has the induction, Mega squirt and EDIS ignition, the 5 speed is in the 2+2 show car that Ron Tyler built the custom intake manifold for. I’m keeping the radiator, instruments, radiator, driver side alternator conversion, and few other little trinkets.

You must have missed the references with actual dyno figures in this thread pertaining to more than a few HUGE power producing engines running seemingly small throttle bodies. Small throttle bodies have been ran and posted in this thread with dyno results to back it up, not just bench racing or theory. On a Z car engine, whether it is N/A or running 30 PSI of boost, going from a 60mm TB to a 90 MM throttle body isn't going to free up any more appreciable HP, if any at all, nor should hurt power either, though as John C. brought up, an engineered throttle body size taking advantage of the air “velocity” under specific conditions and RPMS, which includes engineering the entire induction tract from the air filter to the intake valve, a smaller throttle body should produce a tad more torque. Personally, I view the 90mm throttle body on any L-series engine on the same level as a 4” exhaust tip on a 4 cylinder Honda. Why bother. HP is air flow, period! You can make so much HP with so much air flow, (efficiencies such as engine friction, pumping losses etc will skew those figures a tad, but in general, air flow is HP), If the throttle body is a restriction, then HP would be down. Now if those references such as a single 2” (50.8 mm) ID OE Datsun throttle body flowing enough air with only 12 PSI of boost to produce over 570 HP recorded HP on the dyno, (I guarantee you that NO turbo L-28 or Turbo RBxxDE on this forum is flowing that much air with only 12 lbs of boost no matter what throttle body they are running), or any of the other examples such as the rally example above, isn’t enough empirical proof, not just bench raced, sorry. As for the SR20DET with the Q-45 TB? Sure, it isn’t hurting his performance, but rest assured that 90 mm throttle body isn’t giving that 2L engine ANY more power over what a 60mm throttle would deliver, N/A or Boosted! As for drivability, that is totally subjective and is dependant on many factors, such as the engines torque curve, whether or not the HUGE throttle body has “cammed” actuation and if so, the details of the camming such as, is it a linear opening rate, or a rising or falling rate, (as viewed on graph, curved)? Throttle response/drivability is a tunable parameter by camming the actuation, and each persons idea of the optimum throttle response/drivability is going to be different as well. As an aside, there is one member on this forum, 280Zforce, that is running the Q-45 throttle body on his boosted L-28. How he executed his entire induction system, visually, it is NOT overly blingy or rice. His engine bay, and his entire car for that matter, is rather stunning. That's my $.02, again...

Depends on what else is included. Does that include the rack, cross member etc? Car was wrecked? Any guarantee that the suspension was not damaged or stressed during the accident? I currently have a very similar set up for sale, though I’m not including an LSD diff or half shafts. Complete front and rear suspension off my 240-Z race car. Approx 6 hours total time all parts, all is still assembled ready to bolt up. All that is needed is the Ground control coil over upper spring perches front and rear which cost less than $20 ea from GC. Not wrecked, just parted out the race car to build the street Z. Front suspension; Front cross member with the 240 rack and pinion, T/C rods, Ploy T/C bushings, LCA with Poly LCA bushings, brand new wheel bearings, new brake rotors, new Porterfield R4 pads, new braded stainless brake lines, brand new tie rod ends, brand new lower ball joints, strut tubes are sectioned and have the shorter G/C Tokico 5 ways installed, Ground control coil overs and adjustable spring perches, bump steer spacers, S/T front bar with frame mount hardware and poly bushings. Rear suspension; Control arms with inner and outer Poly bushings, new spindle pins, ZX rear disc conversion with new rotors, Porterfield R-4 pads, new braided stainless brake lines, new wheel bearings, sectioned strut tubes with the shorter G/C Tokico 5 ways, Ground Control coil over springs and adjustable spring perches, S/T rear mount sway bar with new uprights and mounting hardware, poly bushings. I’m also including another set of Porterfield R-4 pads still in the box. I tallied all the receipts to around $3100 for all the aftermarket parts alone, (not including the cross member, steering rack, labor for the rear disc conversion, labor for the strut sectioning and Coil over set up, bearing installation, bushing install etc), and am asking $2000 for this set up. I will NOT ship this as I don’t have time to crate it, though delivery within 100 mile radius of Portland OR can be arranged for a little extra. Front; Rear;

Keep us posted, pics if possible.. Thanks, Paul

Interesting build.. Hmm.. If you plan to run pump gas, then yes, 11:1 is too much compression for any boost. If you plan to run LOTS of boost, you’ll need to drop the comp ratio considerably. If you plan to run only a little boost, then only a modest drop in compression ratio will be needed. I have to ask. Why the Q-45 throttle valve? I’ve only seen one application using that TB where it visually “fit” the powerplant, 280Zforce's beautiful example. Here is some good reading on HUGE by LARGE throttle valves from the “functional” perspective. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=119899

Looks like a simple basic DIY or simple aftermarket race carb, slide valve variety, kinda like an SU but the throttle cable lifts the slide, not engine vacuum. My guess is that throttle response is either ON or OFF, similar to mechanical injection. Definitely a race engine of some sort. Welded oil filler, oversize water pump pulley, probably a small diameter crank pulley. The simple engine mounts and the BASIC nature of the carbs, makes me think it proably was for a race boat. Pete, do you have any more info or pictures of this creature? Very interesting for sure.

As Ron mentioned, Lokar makes a really nice quality universal throttle cable. I use them on my V-8 Z’s and even my L-6 Z’s. This picture of my first V-8 Z just after initial fire up, with the Lokar cable looped at the firewall. Cable length was left long initially, then shortened afterward. The Lokar instructions cover how to easily shorten the cable to the desired length, and the clevis fits the stock Datsun gas pedal perfectly.

BUSTed.. uh... er..., boosted a bit. Probably real torquey, mostly up top, with a bit of low end as well. Looks to be mostly naturally aspirated, with a tad of unnatural aspiration thrown in for GOOD measure..

Ah, the common oily discharge from the exhaust. Not a good sign for sure. Sure, it works as good lube for “rodding” out the carbon from the tail pipe, and as you eluded to, it will cause the passengers seat to itch in the long term.

Every time I start day dreaming about the YZ body kit on a street car, (the lines are incredible, aggressive, and HOT), the head light issue keeps coming to mind. A head light that visually fits the lines and style of the YZ, not something that just illuminates the road. Ricks grafting of the OE head lights is a work of art and is a very well executed head light solution. Nice work Rick. Then it came to me, with a one piece front end like Ricks, would it be possible to use the Z-32 head lights, or the Z-31 semi pop ups? If not the exact set up, maybe a derivative that would fit the YZ lines?… Z-32; Z-31; Ricks;

You are quite welcome and welcome to HybridZ.

I thought it was a Variable Analog Geared Ignition Noise Attenuator? Guess I was wrong, oh well.

Okie Dokie. Here you go... Just as 9kredline said; Passenger compartment; drivers side kick panel, beside the clutch pedal. Under the hood; BIG black box, can’t miss it. The one next to the battery are the fusible links. ’93 owners Manual… Under hood… Kick panel… Hope that helps…

Ok, That engine you pictured is the VG30E. SOHC is just that, A single cam over A head. DOHC is just that, Dual cams over A head. You just happen to have 2 heads, but it is still a SOHC engine as all VG30E's are. The VG30DE is the DOHC variant, with a total of 4 camshafts. I think you get the idea. Read this.. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/OHC

First off, welcome to HybridZ. Thanks for the heads up on those “projected” lights. Curious as to how they would look on/in an S-30/S-130?… They sorta look like something that Madonna wore in the ‘80’s…

Looks like the whole family is into “bolt-ons” Nice….

Bryan, WOW! Looks nice. I like the LONG runners. Should be a strong runner for sure with lots of torque... Just a quick question, I noticed that your injector bosses are centered to the port itself. I know you are already well aware that OE injector notches in the head are not centered to the port itself, but centered on the intake valve. As such, are you aiming the injectors on a slant horizontally and slotting/notching the injector notch in the cylinder head and the intake gasket? Using a custom gasket? C’mon, you can share a couple of your little custom ideas/secrets with us…. Having “splayed” injectors sure would add some WOW factor when viewed from above.

Uh, well… yeah, "Shhhhh…" it can be done. I was planning to include that in the CAM thread. I already have 95% of the piston notching info already written up for that thread, (If I ever finally buckle down to finish the cam thread...) I’ll PM you the piston notching portion within the next couple hours. BRAAAP...BRAAAAAAAAAAP.......BRAAAAaaaaaaa........

Cool... Thanks Woj..

You are very much welcome. YEAH BABY!! Love it! Do you mind if I use a variation of that line the next time someone asks “how hard is it to remove a dash speaker?”

Now which Datsun Z car is this going in again? You must have mistaken this for a Camaro Z forum. Either way, welcome aboard. As for engine builds… Please read #2 in this link. There are many ways to get to your desired power level with the SBC, the route you ultimately take to get to your 400 HP is really more a personal taste, as this topic can be hotly debated form several angles. This has been covered here in the past. Please #2 and, then pull up a chair, open a cold one, and start the clicking the search button. Lots of good 350 vs 383 info here. http://forums.hybridz.org/announcement.php?f=65&a=2

First off, this post is NOT meant to discredit 1 fast Z in any manner. I hold Bryans work in high regard and would have no issues running one his cylinder heads or engines in my own personal Z car. At his young age, he has amassed a great deal of actual hands on experience building, machining and taking Datsun power plants to extremes that the rest of us only bench race about. Some feel he is abrasive, and yeah he can be sometimes, the point is, his work speaks for itself. He KNOWS what he is doing and talking about in regards to engine building, machining, and extracting power from the L-series. With that said and the fact that I’ve haven’t measured any OE flat top piston "pop up" at any less than .019”, it would seem that L-28’s in Arizona just aren’t as “pop-up” endowed as Oregon L-28’s. (Sorry, I couldn't resist that one). In regards to piston pop up, (negative deck height), there are many factors that can and will affect piston deck height. Nissan machining consistency throughout the years was quite good, though machining tolerances such as crank pin offset, crank main line to deck height tolerances, etc can all affect deck height. Align honing a block, resizing the connecting rod big ends, offset grinding the crankpins, staggering bearings for fine tuning the bearing clearances, etc will also alter the piston deck height to some degree. In all the flat top L-28 builds I have measured, I think .019” is the shortest I’ve measured though it may have been shorter, I just don’t recall. The norm I have seen seems to be between .020” and .025.” Pictured below is one such flat top L-28 currently in our shop that we degreed in the cam and now are machining valve relief’s in the piston tops. It is an F-54 block punched +1mm, L-28 rods, OE +1mm flat top pistons, Rusch Motorsports built MN-47 head with a Rebello .520” cam, triple Webers, FelPro head gasket. Rods have been resized with ARP bolts, Clevite bearings used throughout. Piston pop up measured “along” the wrist pin, on all 6 cylinders, at the front and rear of the piston, this engine measures a negative piston deck height of .0225”-.0230”. (Twenty two and a half thou to twenty three thou.) So with a .023” negative deck height, and a .045” compressed head gasket, piston to head deck clearance for this particular flat top L-28 and MN-47 combo is .022” I have ran this combo on more than a few engines and it will leave the imprint of the pistons oversize on the squish portion of the head, but there is NO evidence of actual contact. As Bryan eluded to, when you are building your engine, you either want squish, and all of it, or if you can’t acquire squish, you need more than .100” clearance between the top of the pistons and the chamber of the head. Between .050” and 100” is a nasty detonation zone. Between 050” and the .022” clearance that Bryan is talking about and the anti detonation tendencies of squish are realized and the benefits of added static compression can be realized. FWIW, I found and down loaded the “Lengine” calculator produced by the “Sydney Z car club” and found a discrepancy in the Felpro head gasket volume. It is listed as being only 5.7cc. (Maybe a different Felpro head gasket than we get over here?), The FelPro Print-O-seal head gasket, whether it was just recently torqued up and disassembled, or ran for several years and dissembled, I’ve measured them at 044”-.045” compressed thickness, fire ring ID is a perfectly round exact 3.5” or 88.9 mm which equates to a 7.0 cc volume.

Boy oh boy. You instantly made friends amongst the Admins (now how do we impart that bit of wisdom to the rest of the newguys?...) Welcome aboard..

If you are planning to run the OE EFI and want your engine to run smoothly under most to all conditions, do NOT switch out cams. If the cam you choose alters the VE/torque curve very much at all from the stock VE/Torque curve, you will NOT be able to alter/fool the ECU to “fully” compensate for the new fueling requirements, PERIOD. You will be making compromises in the tune at various points to clear up others. We’ve been playing with, altering, tuning, tweaking, fooling, jinxing, pushing, pulling, balancing, aligning, honing, porting, smashing, shooting, the OE Hitachi EFI for over 17 years now. Trust me on this. If you want an aftermarket cam, install aftermarket EFI, simple as that. This is a very recent thread covering this exact scenario.. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=123950