BRAAP

Here are a few more… Don't you just hate it when someone gets in the field of view while taking pictures… And a Renault R-5…

Spent a small portion of the afternoon at PIR (Portland International Raceway) drooling over Exotic Italians today. Took over 400 pics with Nikon D70s. Here are just a few highlights. Ron Tyler was also there and took a few shots. Maybe he'll share as well.... ****EDIT**** I deleted all the pictures and resized/reposted those picture, this time around without loosing so much quality. I apologize to those that already saved these pics. Now you can save these higher quality versions.

I can appreciate you are upset with your car, (for whatever reason I can’t decipher), but in the future could you please refrain from the colorful metaphors and try to use punctuation and capitalization when you post? I’m not asking for perfect punctuation or capitalization, but some is better than none.

There is a good thread going regarding exhaust pulses and exhaust notes that should help shed some light. Exotic exhaust notes... Here is just one of many first hand experiences with Z car exhaust systems from the standpoint of its tone and note. My ’75 280Z had a single 2.5”, then a true dual 1.75” and then a true dual 2” and then dual with a balance tube. No one ever noticed the difference in sound as I retained the same style and type of mufflers, though the pitch differences were ever so slightly different, attributable to the diameter of the of the pipes. Any difference in tone, quality, note, and pitch comes from the mufflers used, the diameter and overall length of the exhaust system, (including each cylinders run), number of cylinders, firing order and the time/order that the collectors, (if any collectors), receive that firing order, it has absolutely NOTHING to do with how many pipes are exiting the car. Adding a balance tube prior to the mufflers to a true dual exhaust will soften some of the harshness of the exhaust note, but only little and will be more pronounced on smaller diameter exhaust systems, most wouldn’t notice though. If you are planning to use a “Y” branch, there is no real purpose of the dual other than for visual appeal as it exits the car. HTH, Paul

Prime EMS and Rusch Motorsports split the cost of a crane scale which arrived yesterday. 1000 lb capacity, .2 lbs resolution. The first engine we weighed is a complete L-24 with early SU carbs, exhaust manifold, etc. Results are posted in the defintive weight thread linked below. We have already secured other engines to weigh over the next couple weeks including a 2JZ, VG30DE, LS-6, VH45DE, L-28, VQ35DE, various SBC’s, possibly an SBF. We would like to also weigh an SR20, KA24, the various RB’s, the Yota V-8’s, big blocks, etc. Anyone close to the Portland Oregon metro area with an engine/trans to weigh, drop me or Ron Tyler a PM. Click me for the Defintiive engine weight thread...

First contender, the bone stock completely assembled L-24, (240-Z). Minus Smog pump, fuel pump, oil and water. WITH; Early SU Carbs and intake manifold, fuel hoses, exhaust manifold, dizzy, damper, alternator, cooling fan, flywheel. No fuel pump, no oil, no water. 389.4 lbs. Minus the flywheel, fly wheel bolts and backing plate, 362.8 lbs.

READ ME FIRST!!! REVISED! First off, a HUGE thank you to z1 zonly for his contributions. His insight and help in the revamping of this thread are greatly appreciated. Rules!!! This thread is solely for the sharing of "actual" engine/transmission weights. Because there is no real “standard” to which engines are quoted in regards to how much they weigh and with what accessories, we would hope that those wanting to contribute would do their best to post within this standard as outlined here. We would like to emphasize that if an engine isn't in the “standards” state of dress doesn't mean its weight is illegitimate, but we provide it as a guide and means of comparison for the contributor to follow while posting their weight. And pictures are always helpful, detail is key. When posting weights, be specific in what accessories/ancillaries were or were not included in the weighing, again, detail is key. “Discussions/gossip/small talk/chatting/etc” about engine/transmission weights are not to be posted in this thread. If you wish to discuss, ask questions, chat about certain weight combinations, please start another thread elsewhere in HybridZ and feel free to link or quote from this thread, but please do not “discuss” within this thread. Please only post weighings/weights of engines/transmissions that you witnessed first hand. If you know a friend, relative, person elsewhere that weighed such and such, please don’t bother posting it here. Again you must have witnessed first hand the actual weighing of the engine/transmission. Posts in this thread must be stand alone. NO links to other off site pages. Pictures are always a plus if they show pertinent parts/acc, etc, but please try to make them small and just enough pics to convey the point. Guidelines!!! 1) This standard should be "as complete as possible," there are two methods in which to look at it from here. The first is that the engine should ideally be dressed to the fullest extent possible while using only the parts most probable to an engine swapper, (welcome to HybridZ). The second is that the engine should be as complete as possible as if it were just removed from, or ready to be installed in, its donor chassis with all stock parts. 2) While the P/S and A/C are typically highly modified or done away with during a swap, they are also typically left attached to the chassis so as to maintain a closed loop and not to have to drain the systems during an engine pull. Therefore, please do NOT include those items in the post. 3) The alternator, Clutch/Flywheel, Flex Plate/Torque converter, (necessary ancillaries), is a nuisance from our perspective. Although it is often canniballized during a swap, it's still a necessary component and often the stock one is left in place. Please post this info separate and we will regularly “maintain” this page and move your alternator/brackets weights to the cumulative alternator bracket weight post provided as an estimator for adding and subtracting as necessary. 4) Fuel injectors/fuel rails/coil packs all in place for EFI engines and carbs in place for non-EFI. Intake plumbing or exhaust components beyond headers/manifolds please do not include. 5) Do NOT include engine wiring harness as it is a bit ambiguous, and usually altered in a Hybrid Conversion. 6) Fluids are also ambiguous. Please specify whether or not the engine had fluids. Water ~8lbs/gal each, engine oil ~1.75lbs/qt or ~7lbs/gal) Please be sure to actually quote fluid quantity/weight. 7) Pertinent engine covers, like valve covers or the timing belt covers, ought to be included since they're necessary to keep dirt out of susceptible parts, but embellishments and trim should always be excluded.

I apologize if I gave the wrong impression. Of all people, Ron Tyler and OTM know of all my publicly known and private car related projects. I'm not doing any VQ projects myself. I guess I can let the cat out of the bag now. Today, DHL just delivered a crane scale to us. 1000 lb capacity, .2 lb resolution just for weighting engines and all this week we are tramping around the Willamette valley weighing engines and transmissions. Engines on the list to weighed are as follows: Dave Lum; VQ35DE/TT and whatever trans he is putting behind it. (he might have a few other engines and trans as well…) My engines; VH45DE, VG30DE, SBC in various configs with iron heads, aluminum heads my Eaton M-112 SC, VG30E, L-24 and L-28 in various configs, T-56 trans, VH45DE Auto trans, S-130 auto trans Burrl; 5.3 GM and 4L60E with Eaton SC, possibly his 400 SBC, VG30DE and possibly a VG30DETT Savage42; LS-6 Tube80Z; VG30DE and whatever else he has lying around. Ron Tyler; L20-B, Briggs & Stratton, Uphsire single, L-6's, various SBC's. And anyone else that lives near by with an engine out of the car that we could weigh, especially SR20DE, KA24DE, the RB ‘s and the Yota inline 6, the Yota V-8, etc. I will then put together a definitive “engine weight list” with what accessories were and were not weighed in neat tidy spread sheet style format posted here on HybridZ. Being as there is no standard for what is included and not included in the definition of “engine weight”, I’m hoping to provide an accurate list for others to use including the various variables that people take for granted.

I have always had a suspicion that coolant flow around and over the combustions chambers of the L-6 could be suspect, but haven’t really had any substantial proof to support that claim, though I’ve talked to few others about the theory and left it at that, just a theory. Being as this subject is headed right down the path I’ve been theorizing over, I just wanted to share some of this theory for you to chew on in hopes it might be relevant. This is just one recent example that comes to mind... Overall coolant temps in a hot street N/A L-28 don’t seem to be an issue, though extended WOT sessions, there seems to be a rapid declination in how the engine runs, i.e. over a 30-second window at WOT there is marked engine performance difference. In our last dyno session, we used a Mustang chassis dyno which allows you to hold a steady RPM under all loads and with a low 8:1 compression ratio mild-hot street N/A L-28 engine under extended WOT conditions, the J&S Safe Guard knock protection would kick in pulling timing, but only after extended WOT loads. With the J&S disabled, we heard loud audible knock and a substantial decrease in power output at around the same point the J&S would've started to pull timing. We feel this started in one cylinder, but not sure which one. Coolant temps were slowing rising, but still considered safe, of course at the first sign of abnormal "anything", the dyno pull was aborted and the engine allowed to cool down with no load prior to shutting it down. Our theory is that the “combustion chamber” temps elevated much quicker that the coolant could remove that heat. We adjusted and set ideal AFR’s and ignition timing for max output at the varying coolant temps, (we stayed below that threshold that the J&S would kick in for our optimizing tuning effort), and found the cooler the water temp, the better the engine performed and it even sounded more “crisp” as well. Coolant temps as low as 160 F and the engine ran great, performance was in a steady decline as the temps rose and the exhaust note also reflected that being less crisp. 1) Without knowing for sure how the coolant is circulating over and about the chamber roofs, and also not knowing how clean the cylinder head casting is i.e. casting flash causing blockages, eddies, etc, there is just to much that is unknown that one could spend several years on an engine dyno and a few hundred core heads testing just this subject alone. 2) Theories for addressing the possible coolant flow issue over the chambers. I feel that an as cast surface offers pretty good heat transfer to the cooling medium, (coolant in this case), maybe with small raised fins across the chamber roof in line with the coolant flow would offer some bit of consistency in removing chamber heat. I feel that “consistency” in regards to chamber temps over a varying range of operating conditions is more important as we can work “around/with” that consistency to better neat the needs and abilties of that engine to produce power. a) As pictured above, individual coolant outlets into a manifold with the thermostat just prior to the inlet to the radiator. b) Individual coolant inlets in the block, one per cylinder. Not sure exact ideal location and depending on which side of entry, i.e. driver vs passenger, modified head gasket coolant passages. c) Modifying/rearranging the coolant passages between the head and block seems like more of a trial and error by guess and by golly R&D endeavor. The dynamics of the coolant flow through and about the entire engine is so diverse with the substantial Delta “T” between the lower block and chamber roofs, pump variants, cylinder head casting differences and casting flash affecting actual coolant flow etc. d) Be able to get inside of the coolant cavities of the cylinder head to clean up the casting flash, blockages etc. I don’t feel this last one is a realistic procedure within our privateers financial abilities. Again, this is just some random theory that has been bouncing around in my noggin from some time and this thread looked like a good place to unload some of it.

Which car, S-30, S-130, Z31, Z-32?

I'll take em and pay for shipping and your time in packaging them... If that is ok with you of course. PM on the way...

MaD-MAX_SE, You are obviously new here. Consider this your warning. 1) Weights regarding engines has been discussed, argued, and thrown in the tool shed in the past, i./e. this forum has been there and done that in the past and we will NOT go through that again. The subject of engine weights is a GREAT topic, but it needs to be VERY exact and specific, not just numbers thrown about with links to other sites. I did read that link and as I very clearly stated, specifics need to be EXACT. That link says and I quote… That is EXACTLY what I was referring to. The specifics quoted are VAGUE at best, not even close to what is and is not included. I’m sure you understand, right? 2) I’m only going to refer you to the rules and guidelines one more time as pissing matches with admins is NOT tolerated here, PERIOD! This time I strongly urge you to read all of it, especially #13 and be very much aware that your comments can easily and quickly go from Tool shed fodder to you being banned. Nuff said. Click me for the HybridZ Rules and guidlines Regards, Paul

Membership, Engine weight posts like these are great, though I am going to ask that you don’t post any figures unless you can also post what ancillaries/parts are included in that weight and absolutely positively NO hearsay or “I think it weighs” posts. Either of those is a sure fire way to get a thread thrown in the Tool Shed, per HyrbidZ code of high performance forum justice #6. HybridZ code of High Performance Forum Justice For instance, the first quoted weight by Mad-MAX_SE. Does that weight quote include Alternator, Exhaust manifolds, flywheel, intake manifold, engine wiring harness, harmonic damper, belts, pwr steering pump and bracketry, A/C pump and bracketry, etc? All those goodies could skew that weight quote over 200-300 lbs either way making that quote totally and completely irrelevant. The pictures help as you can see what is and is not included in the weighing, though a good 360 degree view would be better for that reason. **EDIT** The subject line was also more appropriately titled as well. Please do NOT title threads with "Does anyone know?" Those threads are 100% Tool Shed fodder.

GORGEOUS!!! Nice work. I just can’t help but cringe thinking about all the finger prints that will show up as people will inevitably touch it even though instructed not to. Any how, that is incredibly stunning. Thank you for sharing and keep the pics coming..

Chrysler coil pack with Mega Squirt and Spark Extra controlling the Ford EDIS-6. Details of the EDIS install are here… Click me for EDIS-6 install tech... Camber plates are from Ground Control.

Flow rates? (every time someone wants to know and/or compare cylinder head port flow rates, I get this terrible uncontrollable twitch in my shoulder…) This has been covered before. Flow benches are an invaluable tool, much like a Torque wrench but only to the person using that tool, i.e. the person performing the head massaging. Those figures have NO performance value to the customer, end user, driver, tuner, gas pump attendant, neighbors cat, etc. The actual HP and Torque the engine produces as measured on a Dynamometer and/or Drag strip ET and MPH with the vehicle weight, are the figures that really matter most, not port flow rates. Comparing flow figures is like comparing head bolt torque values, i.e. serve no real function, especially from different flow benches utilizing different testing inlets/outlet horns, etc. For those figures to be of any real benefit, the test conditions NEED to be exactly duplicated on the “same” bench for accurate indications of possible flow gains. Flow figures are primarily for cylinder head massagers to use as a guide to whether or not they made any improvements in “static” air flow and that should be done on the SAME flow bench. Generally an improvement in “static” flow is indicative of the head being able to produce more power by virtue of flowing more air. Also, this "static" flow testing is only a very small part of a very complex scenario. Keep in mind the term “static” flow. A flow bench does NOT replicate what is actually taking place within the port in regards to air flow on a “running” engine such as helmholtz, valve events vs engine/piston speed, combustion efficiency due to chamber shape, how the exhaust tract affects scavenging, reversion, and the list goes on and on. Also, just porting a head for MAXIMUM flow can be achieved with overly aggressive bubba style hogging, and that head would be a lousy street engine. The real trick is getting those high flow numbers without making the ports the size of the Holland Tunnel. In short, flow rates are not to be bench raced or used for anything other than the person performing the port work to use as a “general” idea if an improvement in “static” flow has been achieved as measured on the SAME flow bench after mods have been performed. With that said, "1 fast Z" has been kind enough in the past to share flow numbers as he progressed in porting some L-series heads, i.e. repeatable useful flow numbers. Maybe he’ll chime in, though good luck getting him to share what the “exact” mods performed were for those different flow figures/graphs.

Boy are you in luck. Just hang tight till late next week, maybe sooner, maybe a few days to a week later. Can’t say any more than that right now… Trust me…

Just curious, what benefit/value would those flow figures serve?

E-31, E-88, N-42, N-47, MN-47 P-79, P-90 are mechanical. P-90A is the only head that came with hydraulic slack adjusters and the only way to know for sure with a P-90A head is to remove the valve cover for visual verification.

More than just a few… You did look through the Classified of this forum in the Hybrid section right? HybridZ classifieds.. click me...

ANY Turbo charger can be used to build a Turbine engine. Here ye go… Video.. DIY Turbine sites using Turbo Chargers….. http://www.gas-turbines.com/nt5/index.html http://www.gas-turbines.com/nt3/index.html http://aardvark.co.nz/pjet/turbine1.htm http://www.rcdon.com/html/jace_bigelow.html http://www.nickhaddock.co.uk/jetgallery.htm http://www.pfranc.com/projects/turbine/top.htm http://aardvark.co.nz/pjet/faq.htm http://www.users.zetnet.co.uk/gas/turbine.htm

The UBER cool Turbo charged wood stove is linked below. Turbo charged wood stove..

Being as the rear carb feeds the rear 3 cylinders, and those same 3 cylinders are not firing, then the carb is by default the strongest common denominator for sure. Have you tried reading the plugs? Checked float levels for both carbs?

Home built DIY Turbine engine.. BOO YA!!! NYE Thermal dynamics by chance? DIY Jet Turbine...

Fella’s, A few years back I loaned out some of my SBC books which have since disappeared. In trying to replace them recently, I have been able to replace them all but this one. If anyone has this book written by "David Vizard" in their library and is willing to part with it for a nominal fee, drop me a PM. "How to Build & Modify Chevrolet Small-Block V-8 Pistons, Rods & Crankshafts" by David Vizard. Thank you, Paul