BRAAP

I have thrown away more of those '73-'74 smog carbs than I've given away for free to guys who just wanted all the nuts and bolts... I had know idea they were so desireable...

+1.

If anyone is interested, Rob, aka Rao over on Bimmerforums and LS1tech is selling completed daily driven LS2/T56 BMW E36 car. He originally did the conversion in his ’95 M3 then swapped the entire conversion and M3 suspension over into a standard 4 door E36 car. Total sleeper, should run low 12’s as is. Here is link to the eBay ad; http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=190394019893&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMESELX%3AIT#v4-35

Cross posts, merged.

'78 ECU is it's own beast, totally different harness and pin out, not interchangeable with the '77.

Looks good, nice work. That gold zinc plated pipe fitting is "pressed" in place and can be quite stubborn to remove, to the point it will end up completely mutilated once removed. Sometimes that come free with some firm effort, more often than not, they get destroyed. Not a big deal if you plan to never use that port again, then just tap and plug it. Other wise, a good cap that will handle the temps and pressures of a boosted intake will suffice.

Thank you.

Getting caught trying to circumvent forum rules/policy is grounds for permanent ban!

Welcome to HybridZ. As you noticed, this forum isn't much for entry level Z owners but more of an advanced forum for those building or already experiencing high-performance Z cars on a whole new level.

I am pretty sure you mean the AFM (Air Flow Meter) and its bracket right? NIssan first use of a MAF was 1984 in the 300-ZX, none of the earlier Z cars came with a MAF. MAF and AFM's are sensors that help the ECU compute the amount of air being ingested, but they do so in a totally different way, one measure the Mass of the air, aka MAF, the other measure the volume of air, not the mass, totally different sensor, they are not interchangeable physically or in terminology.

I think there were couple guys selling bits and pieces of the conversion kit in the classified section recently. For the manual, it's only $38.95 SHIPPED! A drop in the bucket compared to the cost to do the conversion and you'll have the latest revision, (it has been revised several times since it was originally written back in the '90's). Here is the order page; http://www.jagsthatrun.com/OrderingBooks.html From the JTR web site, "contact us" page; E-Mail: JTR@JagsThatRun.com Phn: (925) 462-3619

LSx-BMW Engine mount brackets from JTR

Should be very cool. Please document the build with lots of pictures and share your build.

Looking for injectors for the L20A... Tony D might know or even have some... For what its worth, the L20 was made in two versions, a 4 cylinder and a 6 cylinder. 4 cylinder is the L20B, 6 cylinder is the L20A. (Changed your thread title accordingly).

3 cars converted! Cool.. Don't forget the other 2 currently available E-36 conversion kits; New-Age Hotrods; http://www.nahrods.com/ Vorshlag; http://www.vorshlag.com/index.php?cPath=0_1_4_63 YES! The Z-32 is maintenance intensive and engine maintenance is difficult at best. When reliable/dependable is one of the criteria for a car that is to be used as a daily, my not so humble opinion is the Z32 should not be on that list! Of course there are the few that have trouble free Z-32, but you will find many others that have not and that ratio of reliable vs unreliable Z-32 is going to be biased more on the not so reliable vs other cars listed already. It is a fun and neat toy, reliable/dependable daily transportation it is not. It does require lots of TLC, especailly one in the $4000 range.

L series front cover, good condition, no pitting, no pock marks or corrosion. $35 SHIPPED

Good eye on the HP/Trq cross over, though the HP and trq are represented on different scales, the numbers as lined up with their respective scales do jive. I've seen before where the Torque and HP scales are not represented on the same scale which is sort of frustrating to those of us that use these graphs as tool, not just a pretty chart with colored arced curves to show off to extended family that wouldn't know what they are looking at any way. Somewhat annoys me when dyno operators present their graphs that way. It's nice to have both the HP and Trq figures represented/scaled the same, makes it easier to visualize what is taking place overall. especially when when wanting to compare to other graphs, previous runs, etc. Scaling the HP and trq graphs differently can alter the visual perception of how the power curve looks, but for what reason, I do not know. Though that huge hump in the power curve that peaks at 4200ish is bizarre. No amount of false air to an O2 from an exhaust leak, or another error in the PCM could cause the engine to actually produce that large of a hump like that. Only explanation I can gather from that, especially seeing the lower trq figure immediately preceding that hump is tire spin initially and as the tire/s was/were regaining traction, the momentum of the drivetrain being slowed down by the rollers would show up on the dyno as a torque increase like that. Riding the clutch pedal could produce similar results. Or glitchy sensor on the dyno roller...

RWD, daily driver, $4000 budget... my vote is E-36 all the way! http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/76950-the-bmw-daily-driver-thread/ ... great daily drivers, RWD, priced right, stellar handling with some M parts thrown at it and with the ability to convert it to V8 and retain 25-30+ MPG on the freeway, I see it as a no brainer. I sold my Z-32 and purchased and M variant with money left over. The M car bone stock flat out killed my Z 32 in a straight-line and even withe modest suspension upgrades, (adjustable struts, strategic poly bushings, etc) to the Z-32, the M car handles much better, crisper, more pleasant to live with on a daily basis and it seats 4 comfortably. It may not have that "hey look at me" wow factor the Z cars have, but it more than makes up for it everywhere else. By the way, JTR is currently working on traditional SBC and LSx conversion kits for these cars. I am prototyping the LSx conversion in my car. http://www.jagsthatrun.com/BMW_Order.html There is even a Ford small block conversion available.

HP Tuners and EFI live are companies that sell the OE LSx PCM tuning programs utilizing an interface that plugs into the OBD-II port and links your laptop to the PCM allowing you full control over all the parameters with the PCM, fueling, ignition, timing, rev and speed limiters, idle control, VATS delete, CAGS delete, 2nd O-2 delete, set tach output, MAF delete, allows for 2 bar and 3 bar MAP sensors for boosted applications, full auto trans tuning shift points, firmness etc. Diablo Sports has hand held tuning controller that doesn't utilize a lap-top. Personally I went with the HP-Tuners Pro suite. I saw its graphical user interface a little easier to use overall and love it. Both HP-Tuners and EFI-Live are incredibly powerful tuning tuning suites, for the most part offer the same features and control, though there a few subtle differences in some aspects that mostly appeal to shops that are tuning LSx engines on a regular basis. Be aware when researching these that there are the die hard fans in each of the tuning suite camps that will try to push their "opinion" of which tuning suite is best. Those that are truly informed will tell you all the suites have their place and there is no best, just depends on which one meets your needs, ease of use, etc. Some shops that post in the tuning suite forums own both HP-Tuners and EFI-Live and say on both forums that both are equally valuable. In short, don't get caught up in the EFI-Live vs HP-Tuners, war. Here is a link dedicated to LSx tuning/programming; http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/pcm-diagnostics-tuning-7/ HP-Tuners; http://www.hptuners.com/ HP-T forums; http://www.hptuners.com/forum/ EFI-Live; http://www.efilive.com/ EFI-L forums; http://forum.efilive.com/ Diablo Sport hand held; http://www.diablosport.com/ Hope that helps, Paul

He was serious regarding your posting style. Please take the time to read the forum rules, upper right corner of the screen. We are not expecteing college level grammar but we do expect at least grade school level sentence structure including extending a pinky to operate the keyboard shift key. The thread in this link below should help explain why; http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/64626-lazybroken-shift-keys-rant-does-this-apply-to-you-lets-clean-it-up-please/

Pm me the thread in question and I'll delete it.

That's not a sig, its an ad and is part of his/her/its post "Spamming" the forum. Note how it was included in the reply? Sigs do not carry over in replies. This is a spammer using her typical "car forum" cut and paste to sneak past spam software and spam the forum. The loser has been banned the loser and hyperlinks adjusted to reflect character and the post left in tact as an example for others to keep an eye out for these losers. Spammers are always trying new techniques to get in and spam, we count on you guys to help us weed out these recurring vaginal yeast infections, so as you come across these losers please report the suspect post/member or contact one of staff with a link to the suspect spammer and we'll take care it.

As I mentioned previously I like your once a month idea especially if it can be an automatic function within the forum software, (I am not the software guy, so not sure if it is even feasible). After that one month, or maybe make it two months, the ads automatically delete. Allow the 5 day bump to continue as a courtesy for those eager to keep their parts in view? I also like the idea of allowing 3-4 active ads which allows guys the opportunity to accurately list their parts in the title of their ads when they have a very diverse totally unrelated bunch of parts, for example, a few new-in-the box RB EFI sensors, some used NASCAR take-out V-8 engine parts, some 280-ZX interior pars, and parting out a 2 year old 350-Z, all would be difficult to list in just one title. A good portion of the ads here are made by members cleaning out their garages one or twice year posting a handful of items, the classifieds is a nice perk for those members. The rest are a small handful of members that are parting car after car using the classifieds as their online auto-salvage/recycling market place, posting ads week after week for months on end, which to some could also be seen as hogging the for sale section.

I see 2 separate things here guys. 1) The topic of the thread is "violating" the posted rules! 2) Members issues, ideas, possible solutions for other issues regarding the classifieds that should be addressed, (one of which I am guilty of) Lets deal with these separately; 1) Keep in mind this thread is about members "violating" the posted rules. Any 2 consecutive posts from the seller is a bump and is in violation. We have been, and would like to continue to allow you guys to make "SOLD" posts before the 5 days is up as a courtesy. Technically it is against the posted bump rule but we have been letting it go until a few have been caught grossly abusing that unwritten free pass to bump. Point of this thread is a reminder not to abuse the good thing you have in the HBZ classifieds or it will get stricter or the classifieds removed all together, which also has been discussed from time to time due to the amount of maintenance and baby sitting required on part of the staff. Every rule here has one or more members name attached to it. Think about that for a minute. I am sure none of you would like to learn that a new rule that restricts members privileges further has your name attached to it because you some how felt entitled to being special or found a loop hole to push that is obviously against the spirit/intent of the rules in the first place. 2) Listing several items with only one item per ad does clutter the data base and when that persons bump day comes around and he does bump, it knocks all other ads down several posts and is frustrating to other members, rightfully so. I can see where that would fall under the spirit of the intent regarding the bumping rule. Having 2,3, maybe even 4 separate active ads per member with multiple listings in each ad is probably ok, unless "every" member selling parts had 3-4 ads than that could be too much. I don't think we have enough regular ad traffic for that to be an issue, at least for right now. 6+ ads, not so OK for the reasons you guys pointed out. As mentioned, I do have several ads up, and after looking at them again, I owe all you guys a huge apology. That is way to many individual ads, especially come bump day. I am sorry and will fix that. Most of those ads have multiple items listed within per the theme/parts listed in the ad, i.e. L6, LSx, etc. none the less, it is still too many separate ads and I will be consolidating those ads over the next couple days as it is not fair to everyone else. (If you guys see a classified rule addendum show up regarding this issue, go ahead and laugh knowing whose name will be attached to that one). My apologies guys, I will consolidate those ads. B00STDZ's idea of a set number of ads per month, hmmm... I like it.

Direct from JTR is your best bet. http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Datsun_Z_V-8.html